Let's Talk About Power Conditioners

124

Comments

  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    Good, clean power makes a big improvement to enjoying the music. I listen to my system for hours at a stretch, and never tire of it. Since I retired at the end of April I have the time, and I will be listening tonight until sunrise tomorrow. Couldn’t do that if it didn’t sound so freaking good.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 4,949
    What effect....if any....would proper grounding of your panel have on your power and noise floor? I would bet my retirement my house wasn't done properly. I believe the ground rod is supposed to go down 8 ft....and I thought I read somewhere 2 or 3 rods are preferred(?)
  • delkal
    delkal Posts: 764
    I am beginning to wonder how much "power conditioning" improves sound vs just having an "audiophile" grade power strip. I have been making some power cords with mil -spec 12 ga silver plated teflon hookup wire, braided to reduce EMI, coupled with some cheaper (but pure copper) plugs. Unfortunately I realized I don't have enough receptacles to plug all of my shiny new cords into! My amp is plugged directly into the wall (but it is hard wired so no "upgraded power cord" there). The preamp and CD player I made the powercords for are just plugged into a cheap Monster power conditioner (yes, I know it is Monster but I got it as part of a system from Craiglist so it was basically free).

    I am thinking about now making a power strip with the same style power cord (mil-spec wire and plugs) then internally wiring it using hospital grade receptacles. Would making one quality power strip be a better option than having upgraded power cords and plugging them all into a crappy power conditioner.
  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    Probably yes. But don’t confuse that with the difference one of the more expensive highly regarded PC’s on here would make.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    What effect....if any....would proper grounding of your panel have on your power and noise floor? I would bet my retirement my house wasn't done properly. I believe the ground rod is supposed to go down 8 ft....and I thought I read somewhere 2 or 3 rods are preferred(?)

    The ground rod needs to go down far into the constant moist ground to be effective. Multiple grounds can create different ground potentials and that can cause problems. Around my area that multiple GR's would be a huge no no to code.
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited May 2019
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Good, clean power makes a big improvement to enjoying the music. I listen to my system for hours at a stretch, and never tire of it. Since I retired at the end of April I have the time, and I will be listening tonight until sunrise tomorrow. Couldn’t do that if it didn’t sound so freaking good.

    Sharks win game 2. Now I definitely will be up all night listening to tunes with good, clean power. :)
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    What effect....if any....would proper grounding of your panel have on your power and noise floor? I would bet my retirement my house wasn't done properly. I believe the ground rod is supposed to go down 8 ft....and I thought I read somewhere 2 or 3 rods are preferred(?)

    The ground rod needs to go down far into the constant moist ground to be effective. Multiple grounds can create different ground potentials and that can cause problems. Around my area that multiple GR's would be a huge no no to code.

    Bingo!!!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,557
    Jesse, what's your approach to power in your systems?
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Jesse, what's your approach to power in your systems?

    This candidate is on public record, sir, as being for it.
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,471
    edited May 2019
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,474
    edited May 2019
    ....
    Post edited by JayCee on
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,557
    kharp1 wrote: »
    This candidate is on public record, sir, as being for it.

    Yeah, I was just hoping to know what actual product(s) he uses.
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,474
    edited May 2019
    Edit...DaveHo removed his question but hopefully he doesn't mind me summarizing to add context to this reply as I didn't quote it and he changed his post prior to my post. Dave asked why the $2K MSRP based on what he saw in my guts shot posted above...

    @DaveHo, good question. What I've read says approx $300-500 in parts. It's a balanced transformer and the premise of the design. Reportedly there was a year+ of research and 11 different designs to arrive at the final product. My guess, like anything, cost is partly based on research, assembly and....drum roll please....what the market will pay. I didn't pay MSRP....paid $1399 shipped and it included a "$399 Free Cable". Very nice "looking" cable, significantly larger and very pretty vs. stock, but, I've made very good cables for significantly less that also look nice. Again, cost is subjective after you add research, materials, performance and perceived value.

    I purchased the 1800 based on perceived value after my own due diligence with respect to cost vs performance claim. I could've purchased "a big **** transformer" :smile: and DIY'd it but I'm not an EE and have no basis to experiment. Especially when it has to do with power. Crossovers, caps, soldering...no problem, but I'm not into blowing my gear up or worse. :wink:

    The original design had the outlets wired in series vs. parallel and thinner gauge wire. Some DIYers changed the configuration...better outlets, increased the wire size and used the push type connectors for ease of assembly (vs. terminating wire and mounting to a single post). Resulted in positive results.

    The current version, as of last month, incorporated these changes...minus "better" outlets. I was offered upgraded outlets and a bit longer delivery time for $200. Going forward, I can do that myself if I feel the need.

    Not to add to the drama but for historical perspective it's worth noting....prior to last month there was a lot of controversy with the owner of Core Power Technologies, his business dealings and health issues. I only mention this because if anyone's reading this and does further research they might get caught up in the drama that ensued. I was reading through posts that started in 2016 and they had my attention with respect to Equicore products. It wasn't until 2 days of reading through years of posts that I discovered the turmoil with the company.

    End result is Walter Liederman, Underwood HiFi, stepped in and purchased the inventory, the rights to the product and made the changes to the 1800 that I mentioned above. I've purchased from Walter in the past and, based on my research, he has a very good reputation.

    I love my PS Audio gear but can't bring myself to spend $5K+ for the Perfectwave P series. The Equicore is my budget solution in pursuit of mo better sound. I will post listening impressions after a bit more time, but, suffice to say, I'm not displeased after my first day with it.
    Post edited by JayCee on
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,471
    Thanks for the details. I was hoping nobody saw my original post as it seemed like a bit of a bash which wasn't cool on my part. Looks like I was too slow. :*

    I guess when I see a product sold as a power conditioner/suppressor I expect to see more to the guts than a transformer. If it does what it advertises & you like the sound, rock on.
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,474
    edited May 2019
    DaveHo wrote: »
    Thanks for the details. I was hoping nobody saw my original post as it seemed like a bit of a bash which wasn't cool on my part. Looks like I was too slow. :*

    I guess when I see a product sold as a power conditioner/suppressor I expect to see more to the guts than a transformer. If it does what it advertises & you like the sound, rock on.

    No problem, I appreciate the response. I knew there would be some sort of response but the facts are what they are....ie. the build. Can't say my gut reaction is much different than yours and, wholeheartedly agree, the devil is in the details. It's the end result (sound) that will be the deciding factor.

    Thanks again for the reply. Alles klar as my Deutsch friends say.😉👍

    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    We also need to consider that when we look at a product and see a collection of parts that we can dissect by price, we don't consider the research and all the product burnt through to get to the end result, plus, warranty costs are built in to the final price.
  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    I and I will echo the sentiments regarding Walter, stand up guy offering great prices on great gear. I too questioned the guts of that PC but if Walter believes in it, it must do something great.
    Let us know how it performs after some break in time.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,557
    Thanks for the photos, info, and thoughts so far @JayCee! Looking forward to hearing more about it's performance after you spend a few weeks with it.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    edited May 2019
    Well if it sucks maybe it would make a nice 1800va Dreadnought.....








    Lol :D:D:D

    Just kidding
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,474
    edited May 2019
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Well if it sucks maybe it would make a nice 1800va Dreadnought.....

    Lol :D:D:D

    Just kidding

    Actually, that thought did cross my mind. Part of why I peeked inside was because of this.

    Buried somewhere in one of the early Dreadnought threads, when discussing w/the manufacturer re. the provenience of said inductor and application to SDA's, it was stated the 1000VA was designed for an audio company for use in a proprietary product. Wouldn't reveal who it was for and, if I remember correctly, there are no revealing details on the 1000VA.

    Hmmmmm....nope, looks nothing like our beloved 1000VA. Appear to be extra windings spaced around the inductor. There are #'s on the label pics I posted above but part of it is obscured. I searched the net for what I could make out but no hits. Will do a bit more disection to uncover the label at a later date. Curious minds want to know.....:wink:
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    Yea we both know that it takes a special torrid for the Dreadnought.
    Good luck with the research.
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,042
    Another tidbit of information I've discovered with my emi measuring tool. 8' modern fluorescent light fixtures are by far the noisiest components I've measured thus far. They're much noisier than dimmer switch controlled led lighting which are now second on the list. Strangely the older 8' and 4' light fluorescent fixtures do not add any additional noise. My guess is it's due to the lighter weight (cheaper) transformers in the new lighting?
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    joecoulson wrote: »
    If I’m being honest, although it started with the love and passion of music in its purest form, it has at times become a chase of gear as a priority. I have now come to a point where I have to slow down and start enjoying more tunes as my system does sound really good to me and I need to be grateful for that.

    Good advice Joe. Now if only to heed it! I'm speaking of myself, of course! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    My guess is it's due to the lighter weight (cheaper) transformers in the new lighting?

    Ding ding ding....
    Them old PCB filled tar filled heavy suckers were good for sumthin..

    Most of the newer are switching type power supplies and noisy....

  • kharp1
    kharp1 Posts: 3,453
    We've been switching every light in our plant over to LED. Took down a couple hundred 8ft fluorescents last week, some had been hanging 40 years. Some had extremely heavy ballasts and some weighed next to nothing. I'm glad they're gone, hate those things.
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited May 2019
    JayCee wrote: »
    DaveHo wrote: »
    Thanks for the details. I was hoping nobody saw my original post as it seemed like a bit of a bash which wasn't cool on my part. Looks like I was too slow. :*

    I guess when I see a product sold as a power conditioner/suppressor I expect to see more to the guts than a transformer. If it does what it advertises & you like the sound, rock on.

    No problem, I appreciate the response. I knew there would be some sort of response but the facts are what they are....ie. the build. Can't say my gut reaction is much different than yours and, wholeheartedly agree, the devil is in the details. It's the end result (sound) that will be the deciding factor.

    Thanks again for the reply. Alles klar as my Deutsch friends say.😉👍
    Balanced power using a Toroidal transformer in a great way to go if one is willing to spend the money. Many recording and mastering studios use the same thing. While $2000 seems like a lot there are others out there for more money. So, the cost is subjective. Keep in mind here are 1200 VA transformers in the $100 range some of the larger, low noise, high efficient ones can cost $200-$700 or more. I'm a DIY type and one can built something like this for much less. Here is a guide using a 2000 VA transformer that cost about $250 back in 2003 at the time of the writing.

    https://hometheaterhifi.com/volume_10_3/feature-article-isolation-transformer-8-2003.html
    The canadian company seems to offer good quality and look to offer solutions:
    https://www.plitron.com/custom-toroidal-transformers/power-conditioning-2/

    11539602_313839618739839_2745567016391960107_n.jpg

    Also, Toroid a USA co. in MD offers some at nice prices.
    https://toroid.com/Products/Balanced-Transformers

    1000 VA - $531
    https://toroid.com/Home/Product-Details/ProductID/32

    1500 AV - $578
    https://toroid.com/Home/Product-Details/ProductID/33

    2000 VA - $872
    https://toroid.com/Home/Product-Details/ProductID/34


    Also, These guys have some nice offerings that are higher priced but less than the typical audiophile brands.

    600 VA - $599
    https://power-holdings-inc.com/Keces-BP600-Balanced-Isolation-Power-Conditioner-p137036164

    1200 VA - $999
    https://power-holdings-inc.com/Keces-BP1200-Balanced-Isolation-Power-Conditioner-p137036175

    2400 VA - $1699
    https://power-holdings-inc.com/Keces-BP2400-Balanced-Isolation-Power-Conditioner-p137036186
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    edited May 2019
    Excuse my ignorance. What advantage is there in the higher torrid sizes. In other words what does going from 1200va to the 2400va or larger? Is that just the ability to add more outlets? Or is there an advantage with large power hungry power amps.
    I think I know the answer just checking to see if my thinking is correct.

  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited May 2019
    The beer analogy of power factor is easy to understand. VA is the apparent power and Watts are the real power. The larger rating means larger output capability. So for a given voltage, the capacity is limited by the current rating.

    120V x 5 Amps = 600 (Macbook, PC speakers, keyboard)
    120V x 10 Amps = 1200 (Small integrated, Streamer)
    120V x 15 Amps = 1800 (HT AVR, Blu-Ray, subs, HDTV)
    120V x 20 Amps = 2400 (Hi End class-A Preamp, DAC, streamer, high amp monoblocks)

    reactive4.jpg
    2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I use the Hydra8 and I think it made a difference. That is sweet Rich, the made some good gear from what I remember.

    I remember you snagged that one Ivan! I've been looking for one too! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    Verb. AQ Niagara FTW