Mogami Bulk Speaker Cable?

Any of you guys ever tried any of the Mogami Speaker Cable?

I'm kicking around the idea of setting up the two side/rear channels for 5.1, and looking for some bulk cable. I've enjoyed the Furez cable that Doug offers, and am still interested in other types.

I'll say that Canare doesn't seem to gel very well with me. I found that cable to sound a bit thin to me, and a bit too bright, so cable with those sorts of characteristics I'd prefer to skip. (not the same as a Dskip)

I see mention of Mogami from time to time, so, thought I'd look into it some.
There's a bunch more info at these links with specs on capacitance, inductance, and a bunch of other stuff I don't know anything about.

CONVENTIONAL - http://www.mogamicable.com/category/bulk/speaker_cable/conventional_configuration/
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COAX OPTION - http://www.mogamicable.com/category/bulk/speaker_cable/pure_sound/
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Comments

  • VR3VR3 Posts: 22,601
    Mogami is highly regarded in pro audio and studio application
    - Not Tom

    Vr3Mods.com ///// Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,529
    Thanks Trey, interesting.
    I, possibly mistakenly, have grown to associate pro audio with "not necessarily good sound for home 2ch". I think that probably comes from what I've read around here about the pro class amps and such. Is the studio side regard something to assign some weight to, or is studio use more about accuracy and not necessarily what 2ch/hifi enthusiasts would consider "good sound"?
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  • VR3VR3 Posts: 22,601
    edited December 2018
    Studio is more shielding and clean delivery, flat, unforgiving. May not be a bad thing depending on goals.

    I used mogami in my computer system for about 5 years for signal wire... Good stuff.

    I'm not sure I would buy them over dh labs, supra, audioquest in the home audio space unless it was a really good deal (less than 2 bucks a foot)

    Check out supra for bulk wire, also belkin
    - Not Tom

    Vr3Mods.com ///// Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,529
    Alright, good info, thanks!
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  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 20,633
    Plenty of extremely high quality pro/studio/sound reinforcement (and even PA) stuff.
    Danley comes to mind, e.g.
    https://www.danleysoundlabs.com/
    Plus, Tom Danley is an active, enthusiastic, helpful and attitude free member of audioasylum who's happy to help folks with cogent and accurate information rather than pontification. Not that I can afford nor rationalize purchase of any of their products -- wish I could.

    FWIW, I am on the cusp of fabricating some Mogami loudspeaker cables (just for fun -- one cannot beat empiricism, as far as I am concerned), and already bought some shielded Mogami cabling to make up some RCA terminated (unbalanced) cables. Moving at my usual glacial pace on that latter project :/


  • msgmsg Posts: 4,529
    Good info and a laugh, thanks Doc :)
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  • Dr_WuDr_Wu Posts: 101
    Mogami 3103 is 2 bucks/ft. (unterminated) on USAudioMart
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 12,310
    Just give it a try Scott. Paul yep2/pepster spoke highly of it...(mogami)
    Not that that really means anything in the grand scheme of life B) B)

    Personally I can't see you needing shielded wire.
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,529
    Oh yeah, that's right - I think I happened across a few of his cable builds. The ones I saw looked like pro build, iirc. Thanks Ivan.
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  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 12,310
    msg wrote: »
    Oh yeah, that's right - I think I happened across a few of his cable builds. The ones I saw looked like pro build, iirc. Thanks Ivan.

    For interconnects yes he used shielded cable.
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,529
    edited January 7
    @Dr_Wu :: thanks for the heads up on the Mogami w3103 on USAM.

    I was in contact with the seller last week and ordered a length to whip up some cables. Cool dude, and this is leftover stock from his HT build.

    He's also sending me some of the coax w3082 to try.

    Should probably get some fun colored TechFlex from FurryLetters on Ebay to spruce it up!

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  • CoolJazzCoolJazz Posts: 521
    FWIW....there is a ton of different Mogami numbers. They make a great product, but it you select a wrong product for the use you put in in, then it may not be satisfactory.

    For instance...if you select a really neat small diameter, low capacitance, low noise cable and make interconnects out of it, then it may not last used as a mic cable. Inversely, balanced quad Mogami W2534 is great for balance line uses...but wouldn't be what you're after for TT connection.

    I'm primarily running balanced for my main system, so I haven't look hard for what I'd pick from Mogami for unbalanced, but here is some I have used and liked for various applications. 2549 for balanced interconnect. In chassis mini cable use, 2697. Speaker, a 3103. A mini coax, a 2444.

    Parts Express at last look was selling 2534 at 1.55 @ foot.

    Markertek is decent for pricing and seeing quick info on different numbers.

    CJ
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."
  • mantismantis Posts: 15,195
    I use Mogami Cables in my Guitar rig
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,529
    edited January 7
    Hey Dan, yeah, first I ever heard of Mogami it was a soldering tutorial I was watching from TubeDepot where the guy was making a new guitar cable.

    The cable arrived today, so I'm gonna make up some quick connections and see how it goes.
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  • daboyzdaboyz Posts: 4,825
    I'm using 2534 for all my ic's and 3103 for sc's. Pretty happy with it so far. :smile:
    HT - Polk Lsi9, Lsi7, LsiC, Marsh A200s, B&K ST-1430, Pioneer Elite BDP 62FD, Marantz SR7008, Martin Logan Dynamo, NHT CS-10, Mogami 3103 speaker wire, Mogami 2534 IC

    mini HT - Samsung 46" 3D TV + 3D Blu ray player, HK AVR 254, Infinity SL40, Audioengine B1
  • ALL212ALL212 Posts: 922
    I've used 2534 for many things including speaker cable for low wattage tube amps. Love the sound. I've also used the two conductor (has one step up in AWG but otherwise same) in some amps and in one case of interconnects. It makes great headphone cable as well.

    I've used 3103 and 3082 for speaker cables - both good. Will be doing a cable battle when the new speakers arrive for the tube amp.

    They are a good cable, well made and economical when compared to some of the competition.
    Aaron
    Enabler Extraordinaire
  • Dr_WuDr_Wu Posts: 101
    I use the 2 conductor 2549 w/Neutrik Rean connectors for my ICs. 14awg, 1m lengths. All I can say is they were a definite improvement over basic RCAs.

    How are the 3103 speaker cables working out for you, @msg?
  • Jimbo18Jimbo18 Posts: 1,947
    Hey, Scott, if you like them, share the wealth, ya know what I mean? :)
    HT - Pio Elite SC-63, RT800i, CS400i center, FXi50 surrounds, Def Tech PF 15TL+, Belkin PF30, Samsung UBD-M7500.
    Bedroom - HK AVR 340, Monitor 5jr+ Series2, CS300 center, Furez 10/2, Roku Ultra+
  • FaustinFaustin Posts: 834
    I just bought some Mogami 3103 for some DIY speaker cables. For the price I thought I would give it a try.
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,529
    Dr_Wu wrote: »
    How are the 3103 speaker cables working out for you, @msg?
    Looks like my earlier post/response got wiped. My fault, I did have a funny video link hidden in a spoiler.

    I was saying I haven't quite gotten around to getting them set up yet. Looking forward to hearing them, though. I didn't realize the 3103 were so popular. Good bit of feedback here on Mogami.

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  • FaustinFaustin Posts: 834
    Hey there msg. Did you put together some cables yet with the 3103 wire? Also, you mentioned getting some TechFlex to spruce them up. Curious, does it make sense to remove the outside rubber shielding on the 3103 cable and just use TechFlex to cover the wires?? I can see where the heavy covering would make sense if it was used in an application where it is being moved around or pulled around alot, like a band touring, to keep the wires protected. But in a home stereo setup it really doesn't get touched. And it would make it much lighter and perhaps easier to move around, coil up etc. Getting ready to work on my cables and I am looking for some thoughts and ideas.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 12,310
    Faustin wrote: »
    Hey there msg. Did you put together some cables yet with the 3103 wire? Also, you mentioned getting some TechFlex to spruce them up. Curious, does it make sense to remove the outside rubber shielding on the 3103 cable and just use TechFlex to cover the wires?? I can see where the heavy covering would make sense if it was used in an application where it is being moved around or pulled around alot, like a band touring, to keep the wires protected. But in a home stereo setup it really doesn't get touched. And it would make it much lighter and perhaps easier to move around, coil up etc. Getting ready to work on my cables and I am looking for some thoughts and ideas.

    Well there should be a twist with a separator cord going on inside of the jacket. That twist rejects some interference and keeps the cables apart. Removing the jacket if you can keep the twist fine, IF not it can pick up some 60hz hum from power cords or other interference.
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,529
    edited January 23
    Faustin wrote: »
    Hey there msg. Did you put together some cables yet with the 3103 wire? Also, you mentioned getting some TechFlex to spruce them up. Curious, does it make sense to remove the outside rubber shielding on the 3103 cable and just use TechFlex to cover the wires?? I can see where the heavy covering would make sense if it was used in an application where it is being moved around or pulled around alot, like a band touring, to keep the wires protected. But in a home stereo setup it really doesn't get touched. And it would make it much lighter and perhaps easier to move around, coil up etc. Getting ready to work on my cables and I am looking for some thoughts and ideas.
    Hey dude, I did finally get the 3103s together after some serious - and I mean serious - haranguing from @ALL212 Although, it may have been more along the lines of just plain hassle, or, in the California vernacular - "coaching" or "positive input".

    I could really go for a corn dog right now, btw.

    Right, back to the Mogami.
    Nice cable. I like it so far. Easy to work with. Neat geometry with its separate sub-bundles of wire inside the insulation of each conductor. Seems like the exposed conductors wouldn't twist well being made like this (think, trying to twist Monster), but it does twist nicely which makes it easy to terminate in dual screw-down connectors.

    I terminated with some of Doug's Furez silver-plated copper bananas, which I like with the elastomer inserts, but was a quick (<< that was a lie. there was nothing quick about this) long and dirty build just to get them in place. Still took me the better part of a week+ to finally get around to dragging out the tools and... sigh. I got tired just writing all that. It really doesn't take that much, but I tend ot over-prepare an plan because I don't like to be interrupted once I start. That means you have to wear diapers, too, and they're a pain to get lined up so they don't bunch.

    Right. Techflex. I've not yet installed it, but do plan to.
    Ivan nailed it above - there are two separator cords throughout the jacket that help take up the space between the conductors and help to maintain the cable twist. It's almost like four conductors the way it's oriented. And as Ivan says, yes, this is my understanding as well - with no shielding, the conductor twist is what helps reject the noise and interference.

    So, that would be my concern, that if the jacket were removed, you may lose part of the geometry and end up drawing in noise, which is exactly what Ivan notes there.

    They're really not too burly, and while they're not like a wet noodle, I wouldn't call them unrule-ily stiff. I didn't really get a chance to shoot any photos during this prelim build, but I think once you get them placed, they'll stay, and wouldn't be too bulky.

    I suppose you could try to remove the jacket and separators and keep the twist with some Techflex on top. Might be interesting to try, but if it doesn't work out very well, you'll be selling like 30 sets of Mogami jumper wires, I guess? B)

    What do you think? Do you have some specific concerns for bulk and flexibility, or more just trying to keep the cable appearance thin, low-pro, light, and inconspicuous?
    Post edited by msg on
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  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 5,684
    Huggies or Pampers, Scott?
    • "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • FaustinFaustin Posts: 834
    Thanks for the input/suggestions. I will keep the outer jacket in place and just remove some at the ends to terminate. Waiting on some crimp connecrors for the ends so the set screw spades will attach nicely. Probably be here for a weekend project.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 12,310
    Faustin wrote: »
    Thanks for the input/suggestions. I will keep the outer jacket in place and just remove some at the ends to terminate. Waiting on some crimp connecrors for the ends so the set screw spades will attach nicely. Probably be here for a weekend project.

    Yep I like to use crimp tubes now as well. They can make a real solid connection inside a banana.
  • ALL212ALL212 Posts: 922
    Does Scott always turn a 5 minute project into a week long ordeal? FFS... it was like watching someone load windows office from floppy disks.

    ;)
    Aaron
    Enabler Extraordinaire
  • mantismantis Posts: 15,195
    msg wrote: »
    Hey Dan, yeah, first I ever heard of Mogami it was a soldering tutorial I was watching from TubeDepot where the guy was making a new guitar cable.

    The cable arrived today, so I'm gonna make up some quick connections and see how it goes.
    I've used several different brand Guitar cables, pedal cables etc and I think the Mogami is the quietest I've ever used. Noise is a huge issue with Guitar rigs and the less the better like anything else. They make excellent cables and I basically only use their stuff now. BUT in my Pedal board I did try out a full built it yourself Boss Pedal Board Kit which is also high quality and very quiet. I like them as well. I had Planet waves before that and their stuff was good but in certain cases hit of miss.
    Building the solder less cables you have to be a perfectionist like me to achieve the higher quality connection. If you rush just once you'll end up with a hum or a non working cable.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,529
    Speaking of building solderless cables - what are you guys perspectives on the wire twist at the end before going into the connector?

    Do you twist it up tightly, or do you twist it just enough to fit, while trying to maintain the wire geometry?

    With the Mogami 3103, I did sort of a happy medium. Didn't twist them too tightly, trying not to disturb the geometry, but also tried to twist just enough that the set screws would still squash the wire, as opposed to splitting/parting it.
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