Polk Signature Series Official Discussion

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  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,315
    D2Lo wrote: »
    mrloren wrote: »
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    @D2Lo is gone from this forum brother. You are barking up the wrong tree!

    Bummer, @KenCustomerService any insight here?

    True, I left about 6 months ago to start my own design consulting business. It was just time to do the next thing, though the next few releases will still have my influence on them and I stay in close touch with the design team I built.

    Cool, thanks for the update.

    Yes your team and you did a great job with the Signatures.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • I registered on this forum just so I could ask,

    what the heck do I put these bigass S20s on? Like what stands have a 12"x9" plate?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,828
    edited September 2017
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 2,721
    Or if your not interested in paying more for stands than the speaker that rest on them, Sanus Steel foundations, while not the end-all-be-all, will do an admiral job.
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,315
    edited September 2017
    I registered on this forum just so I could ask,

    what the heck do I put these bigass S20s on? Like what stands have a 12"x9" plate?

    make your own. not hard and can be done for less than $40 depending on wood used.

    If you're in SoCal I will make them for you. I do have a couple of designs I've been wanting to try out.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,828
    Stands are as important as the speaker that rests on them. The ability to mass load them is extremely important.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,315
    Well thanks guy's I didn't know that about stands.

    So now I might have to make the same design and try different woods. Oak, birch and Pine. Bummer I have two blanket chest to build this weekend or I might have given a try on some stands.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,315
    Cool thanks @DSkip, I always thought the sand and shot were for just weight.

    I have some leftover Baltic Birch and some Birch 1" dowels. I know the BB use to be used in speaker cabinets something about the multiply. might try a top and bottom plate with the BB use 3 dowels at 3'.

    Now I want to give this a try... errr blanket chest are for profit so I have to get them done.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • MrBondMrBond Posts: 1
    Hello.
    I'm new here polk sorry bad english.
    wanted to know opinion about S20 + HK3490 setting for movies on PC.
    Thank you
  • cfrizzcfrizz Posts: 13,420
    Welcome to Club Polk, it should sound just fine.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 ch. 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony Bravia KDL-40R510C TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Boston VR-920 Center Channel, SVS NSD-12 SB12 Subwoofer, Polk DSW 400 Subwoofer, Polk FXi-3 Surround Speakers
  • Just purchase Polk s60 towers. Running a paradigm cc290 center channel. Am thinking about either the s30 or s35 center. Would this be a upgrade sideways move or just a better move in general to have all timber matched. Never had a matching center with towers so unsure. Was running energy cf 50 towers before the polls thanks
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 11,305
    That's a pretty decent center. Although most would actually say to timber match, I'd probably play with the paradigm to see if you can be happy with it.
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • firsttimerfirsttimer Posts: 87
    edited December 2017
    Yes full 3 way center and running it all through a dennon avrx 3300 so the receiver has done a pretty good job setting it all up. Not unhappy with it but just not sure if a timber matched center would be better
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 11,305
    I'd then consider it at best a linear move.

    If you come across an open box Signature series at a brick and mortar store, then I'd consider testing it out for a possible return...IMHO
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • cfrizzcfrizz Posts: 13,420
    edited December 2017
    Welcome First timer! If you like how it sounds then keep it. None of the speakers in my system match, but all together they sound terrific. Unless Polk came out with a Signature CC that can match my Boston VR920, it is staying right where it is.

    If your ears can't pick up the different timbres of the speakers, then sit back and enjoy what you have.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 ch. 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony Bravia KDL-40R510C TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Boston VR-920 Center Channel, SVS NSD-12 SB12 Subwoofer, Polk DSW 400 Subwoofer, Polk FXi-3 Surround Speakers
  • Thanks for the input that is what I am thinking as well just wanted to get some different opinions, thanks, loving the s60 towers though
  • Good Afternoon!
    First post here. Read through all 24 pages of the "Polk Signature Series Official Discussion." While scouring this and other online sources, I have this listed in my shopping list thus far (7.1 system):
    1. Polk Signature S60 or S55 American HiFi Home Theater Tower Speaker (Pair, Black)
    2. Denon AVRX4400H 9.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD Network AV Receiver with HEOS black
    3. Polk Audio Signature S15 or S10 American HiFi Home Theater Compact Bookshelf Speaker (2 x Pair)
    4. Polk Audio Signature S30 American HiFi Home Theater Center Speaker
    5. SVS PB12-NSD Black Ash 12-inch 400 Watt Powered Subwoofer

    The room is a 14' x 24'
    See attached for the setup of the room. Everything should be within an inch or so of being spot on as far as measurements are concerned. The speakers in the drawing are sized to the S30, S60, S15 & SVS PB12-NSD.

    This will be used 75% movies and 25% music.

    With your experience
    1. S55 or S60 fronts?
    2. S10 or S15 side and rears?
    3. With the window placement, can I still just mount the side speakers on the wall or will I need a mount that will angle them down?
    4. There is about 12 feet from the rear speakers to the listening position. With the doorway in the back or the room, will I need to angle these speakers down?
    5. Without doing a sub crawl, considering the sub is spatially correct, where would you suggest I set it? Currently, in between the shelves and sub is a furnace grate I don't want to block off.
    6. What other info can I supply?
    7. In your opinion, will I be happy?
    8. What accessories should I look for? (mounting equipment and such)
    9. What else should I be considering as I have no idea what to expect

    w62iefnutww7.jpg
    tr1oynfedza1.jpg
    gy3kdp6q3hnu.jpg
    8tjidtnb8up2.jpg



    Thanks in advance,
    Russ
  • DollarDaveDollarDave Posts: 2,597
    F1nut wrote: »
    There isn't a Polk speaker made that sounds like a B&W.

    I agree that’s a good thing.
  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,129
    Think I would try the sub in the back of the room, corner placement, the 2 longer walls.

    The surrounds will probably need to be angled downwards a little, best guess 10-15 degrees.

    Fairly long distance from the rear wall, would go with the larger speaker.

    Front mains, again the larger speaker. Probably want to move them about 2 feet out from the sides of the stand, if room permits and picture is to scale.

    You will definitely want to look into surge protection/ power conditioning.
    If those are hard wood floors, it will be a nightmare, especially if that's also a leather couch, room treatments will help.

    That should start the conversation.
  • rpf65 wrote: »
    Think I would try the sub in the back of the room, corner placement, the 2 longer walls.

    Do the wireless kits work pretty well for this? If so, recommendations?
    rpf65 wrote: »
    The surrounds will probably need to be angled downwards a little, best guess 10-15 degrees.

    I can make some angled lumber to do that if that id what I need to do.

    rpf65 wrote: »
    Fairly long distance from the rear wall, would go with the larger speaker.

    Looking like the consensus is the S15s on the side and the back
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Front mains, again the larger speaker. Probably want to move them about 2 feet out from the sides of the stand, if room permits and picture is to scale.

    Picture is 100% to scale. The room will be tight. So you are saying the S60s for the fronts?
    rpf65 wrote: »
    You will definitely want to look into surge protection/ power conditioning.
    If those are hard wood floors, it will be a nightmare, especially if that's also a leather couch, room treatments will help.

    Recommendations for surge protection/ power conditioning? Yes, they are hardwood Floors. With an area rug in front of the couch and behind the couch.

    Why a nightmare? Pardon my ignorance! :smile:

    Room treatments?


  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,129
    I don't have first hand experience with wireless kits, but they seem reliable.

    You don't need to mount speakers to lumber, there are many wall mounts that tilt out there.

    There are a lot of companies that deal with power conditioning/surge protection. The price range is huge, couple hundred to thousands of dollars.ersonally have a Panamax MR 4300, but as I've upgraded my system, I'll be upgrading the protection.

    Hard surfaces create echoes, for an example. Just means the sound waves are bouncing all over the place, a creating acoustical chaos. Throw 7 speakers into the mix, and now it's really fun. So you need to tame reflections.

    Area rugs, fabric covered furniture, and drapes help, a lot. There are also acoustic panels designed to for the purpose. After calming reflections there are nulls, voids, and standing waves. Speaker interaction with the room acoustics affects all of them. Reflections are most noticeable so address them first. Books are written on this stuff, but it all comes down to trial and error, for the most part.

  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 2,315
    Nice room layout @Cigar_Maverick

    I would go with the S55 and S15 setup, a 7.1 with an AVR is going to be asking a lot from it. Try the speakers without the lumber or add on mount and see how you like it. maybe add a 2nd sub. make the house shake.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN75RU710DFXZA,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk LsiM 705
    Center: Polk LSiM 704C
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES AVR, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc
    Cerwin Vega AT-12 (blasters) Advent Prodigy (listening)
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 8,310
    edited December 2017
    I like your username! Makes me want to go smoke a Fuente short story!

    Tried to answer some of your questions in bold below. Disclaimer, my answers are opinionated and not necessarily fact.

    Edit: Just re-read your original post and see that you have selected quite a beefy Denon. You could probably get away with using the built in amplification on it.
    With your experience
    1. S55 or S60 fronts? S55 if you're planning on using the AVR's built in amplification, S60 if you're going for a dedicated external amplifier.
    2. S10 or S15 side and rears? S10 is adequate.
    3. With the window placement, can I still just mount the side speakers on the wall or will I need a mount that will angle them down? Don't need to angle them down, but carefully consider the height, you don't want to mount them too high.
    4. There is about 12 feet from the rear speakers to the listening position. With the doorway in the back or the room, will I need to angle these speakers down? Again angle should not matter, more important would be mounting height. The Audessey automatic calibration will boost them as necessary due to the increased distance to the listening position.
    5. Without doing a sub crawl, considering the sub is spatially correct, where would you suggest I set it? Currently, in between the shelves and sub is a furnace grate I don't want to block off. I'd put it directly into the left corner if possible where the bookcase currently is.
    6. What other info can I supply? How loudly do you like to watch movies and listen to music?
    7. In your opinion, will I be happy? See above. If you like to watch at "reference" levels like what you experience when going to the local movie theather, I would recommend getting an AVR with preouts and running dedicated outboard amplification for each channel.
    8. What accessories should I look for? (mounting equipment and such) Should be plenty of universal brackets available on Crutchfield.
    9. What else should I be considering as I have no idea what to expect Bringing the front towers away from the wall and allowing them to have some breathing room from the rear wall, and from each other will make them sound better. Try to get the center channel as close to ear level as possible, as arguably it is the most important and heaviest used speaker in a HT environment.

  • halohalo Posts: 5,570
    In my opinion, the nice thing about the Signature Series floor standing speakers is that the power port fires down toward the floor and makes placement easier; i,e,. you can place them closer to the wall as the port isn't firing from the rear of the speaker at the front wall. I think that an AVR can handle driving the S60's especially if set to small and the bass is being handled by the sub in the mix. I don't think you need to angle down any of the surround speakers, I would try them them without angling them first and see how it sounds. You can mess around with angling them later but the speakers should disappear and that's harder to do if they are pointed at your ears by angling them. Definitely look into room treatments from GIK acoustics. They'll give you an idea of what you need and will work within your current budget and make suggestions for upgrades in the future. The biggest impact on the sound quality is the way everything interacts with your room.
  • S55 or S60:
    mrloren wrote: »
    I would go with the S55 and S15 setup, a 7.1 with an AVR is going to be asking a lot from it.
    Clipdat wrote: »
    S55 if you're planning on using the AVR's built in amplification, S60 if you're going for a dedicated external amplifier.
    halo wrote: »
    I think that an AVR can handle driving the S60's especially if set to small and the bass is being handled by the sub in the mix.


    LOL! OK, I have 2 x for the S55s and one for the S60 with the Denon AVRX4400H (125 watts per channel into 8 ohms (20-20,000 Hz) at 0.05% THD, with 2 channels driven).

    I will for sure have a sub. One for now. More if I want later. :smiley:


    Mounting of the side and rear surround speakers:
    mrloren wrote: »
    Try the speakers without the lumber or add on mount and see how you like it.
    Clipdat wrote: »
    Don't need to angle them down, but carefully consider the height, you don't want to mount them too high.
    halo wrote: »
    I don't think you need to angle down any of the surround speakers, I would try them them without angling them first and see how it sounds. You can mess around with angling them later but the speakers should disappear and that's harder to do if they are pointed at your ears by angling them.

    OK, I will mount them flush with the wall to begin and see how it goes.

    As far as being too high, I don't have a lot of choice with the one side and one rear speaker due to a window and a doorway. Will the "Audyssey MultEQ XT32 room acoustic measurement system" on the Denon AVR-X4400H take care of that?


    S15 vs. S10 surrounds:
    Clipdat wrote: »
    S10 is adequate.
    mrloren wrote: »
    I would go with the S55 and S15 setup, a 7.1 with an AVR is going to be asking a lot from it.

    The S10s should also be fine from 12 feet back in the rear with the adjustments that the "Audyssey system" will make, or should i do S15s in the rear?


    Sub Placement:
    Clipdat wrote: »
    I'd put it directly into the left corner if possible where the bookcase currently is.

    That is for sure where it will eventually end up. Behind the couch (where the bookcase COULD go is kind of an office area that does not leave a lot of room for the book case as it stands now.

    Clipdat wrote: »
    How loudly do you like to watch movies and listen to music?

    Tough question as I've never had a really good system before. Depends on if I'm sipping on some good bourbon and have the house to myself! LOL!

    Truth is that I'm sure that any of the stuff I get here will perform well. Just want to make sure I choose the correct Fronts and surrounds. At least I don't have any neighbors close enough to complain!
    Clipdat wrote: »
    If you like to watch at "reference" levels like what you experience when going to the local movie theather, I would recommend getting an AVR with preouts and running dedicated outboard amplification for each channel.

    Did your edit above void this comment?

    Clipdat wrote: »
    Should be plenty of universal brackets available on Crutchfield.
    From what I've read here, I'll hold off on any mounting brackets until such time as I deem them necessary (or not). :wink:

    Clipdat wrote: »
    Bringing the front towers away from the wall and allowing them to have some breathing room from the rear wall, and from each other will make them sound better. Try to get the center channel as close to ear level as possible, as arguably it is the most important and heaviest used speaker in a HT environment.

    The Center channel will be on top of the entertainment center which is VERY close to "ear level." I can experiment with the towers to see if the towers need to come out of if Halo is right in that the way they are designed will allow me more flexibility.
    halo wrote: »
    Definitely look into room treatments from GIK acoustics. They'll give you an idea of what you need and will work within your current budget and make suggestions for upgrades in the future. The biggest impact on the sound quality is the way everything interacts with your room.

    I pulled up their web site and will do some investigation. I measured the area rugs and mapped them out to show how much area they cover up (See attached). Any specific recommendations from GIK?

    mrloren wrote: »
    Nice room layout @Cigar_Maverick
    Thanks! I've spent a LOT of time on "Sketchup" and measuring things!
    Clipdat wrote: »
    I like your username! Makes me want to go smoke a Fuente short story!

    Strangely enough, that one is on my bucket list. I have many that I like including Alec Bradley & Carlos Torano most recently!

    The drawings don't include and of the office furniture in the back of the room.880wm6743f1j.png
    i1r5cwb8nadw.png
    nl4qiqytoriw.png
    wy4o54ob8yzj.png


    Thanks all!
    Russ

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 8,310
    S10 is fine for the rear, the Audyssey calibration that you run will boost their levels accordingly.

    And yeah, I think it does. Originally I didn't realize that you were going for such a beefy/high end Denon. So, volume levels will be fine.
    The S10s should also be fine from 12 feet back in the rear with the adjustments that the "Audyssey system" will make, or should i do S15s in the rear?

    Clipdat wrote: »
    If you like to watch at "reference" levels like what you experience when going to the local movie theather, I would recommend getting an AVR with preouts and running dedicated outboard amplification for each channel.

    Did your edit above void this comment?

  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,129
    Have to disagree with the rears.

    Went from RTI A1's to the A3's as rears, about 6 feet away from MLP, and had a definite improvement. I guess one could argue that Audyssey is that much better than YPAO, but that's my personal experience. I would still go big for rears.

    Front firing speakers mounted with tweeters about 7 feet high, 4 feet above ear level would have to be pretty far away not to be tilted. Hope for your wallets sake I'm wrong, but every penny will count if you make the mistake to ask about cables.
  • Clipdat wrote: »
    S10 is fine for the rear, the Audyssey calibration that you run will boost their levels accordingly.
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Have to disagree with the rears.

    Slight update on something I missed. The side speakers will HAVE to be S10s due to window treatments. Only 11 inches from the ceiling to the curtain rod. I updated the drawing. Sketchup is going to either save me or be the death of me!

    I just need to make a decision on ALL S10 surrounds or S10 sides and S15 rears.

    On a side note, on SEVERAL recommendations, I decided to go with the Denon AVRX4300H receiver over the 4400. Dolby Vision seems to be the only REAL change and that is a free software upgrade. The AVRX4300H is also about $500 less money. However all the power output is the same.

    If the AVRX4300H is a "Beefier" unit, then I imagine I'll go with the S60 mains?

    Just for fun I e-mailed Polk Support about the side and rears as well. If I hade anybody close who had these to listen to, it would make things simpler.
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Front firing speakers mounted with tweeters about 7 feet high, 4 feet above ear level would have to be pretty far away not to be tilted. Hope for your wallets sake I'm wrong, but every penny will count if you make the mistake to ask about cables.

    I am definetly concerned about the side surrounds. Not as much about the rears as it reflects speaker angle. When you say "make the mistake to ask about cables," what do you mean? The reason folks post here is to learn from other people's mistakes! :-) I'm sure not too proud to take advice!!!

    Surge protection.
    If a Panamax MR4300 MR4300 is overkill, do you have any recommendations?

    Crutchfield like this one:
    Panamax PM8-AV

    https://thewirecutter.com likes this one:
    Tripp Lite Protect It! (TLP1008TEL)

    And somewhere along the line I saw this one:
    APC SurgeArrest Performance (P11VNT3)

    Thoughts?

    Here ate the updated drawings with the window treatments.

    cpzvcdu83nff.png
    5unjvn12zewq.png
    k79e1zgbxbmu.png
    niayghka6o0m.png
  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 2,129
    Cables are, shall we say, a very sensitive subject and it has been known to take over many discussions.

    If you look at the Panamax line, for example, the level of filtration as well as protection increases as you go up the line. When it comes to protecting your electronics can there really be any overkill?

    I'm not saying everybody needs to drop $2k or more on circuit protection/power conditioning, but look at the money your spending on gear. You will probably have your TV, AVR, BD player, as well as cable box, gaming consoles, and or whatever else your system consists of. Don't be surprised if you scratch your head and try to figure out how you could possibly have $7-10k worth of electronics setting in your media center some day. That is you have to replace it all because a power surge took it out.

    Before I came to this forum, I didn't understand why anybody would spend, even $300 on a power conditioner, until I tried a better one than I had. The sound improvement alone was worth the extra money, at least to my ears.

    You also must remember, the people here, or any audio forum for that matter, aren't the normal consumers of audio/video gear.
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