sda srs 2.3 modifications

2

Comments

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,477
    Viking64 wrote: »
    At least his hair was perfect, right? No word of pina coladas at Trader Vic's, though. :D

    Hair is ALWAYS perfect....
    Hair metal guys envy him
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 6,646
    pitdogg2 wrote: »

    Hair is ALWAYS perfect....
    Hair metal guys envy him

    HAHAHA I know that feeling.

    5dal2qyzi1or.jpg
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    I soldered over the polyswitch on the left and my what a difference. Its silly really - like mono to stereo almost !

    Can now definitely hear the sda effect too .. there is a marked difference in plugging it in and out that with the left treble lacking I really couldn't notice.
    I'm surprised that bypassing the polyswitch makes a difference in the SDA. The tweeters and polyswitch are not part of the SDA circuitry.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    True, but without the tweeters working it sounds like mud.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 6,646
    edited October 2017
    Oh, S**t. I am presently putting Black Hole 5 in my 2.3's and I just popped online to read the threads on here about where exactly to place it. Jesse wrote somewhere that he recommended putting Black Hole 5 in while the cabinets are open. I just thought it was helpful advice, but now I see that IT'S A TRAP! This substance will suck out my soul and drain my blood, won't it? >:)
  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
    Viking64 wrote: »
    Oh, S**t. I am presently putting Black Hole 5 in my 2.3's and I just popped online to read the threads on here about where exactly to place it. Jesse wrote somewhere that he recommended putting Black Hole 5 in while the cabinets are open. I just thought it was helpful advice, but now I see that IT'S A TRAP! This substance will suck out my soul and drain my blood, won't it? >:)

    Run.....Run while you can....never look back.....
  • tonyp063
    tonyp063 Posts: 1,044
    ....The interior pics only show up black......a black like no other I have ever seen......

    So *that's* where all the unobtainium black paint went!
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,471
    Yep, but the pool table has got to stay - its never going to be a perfect listening room - but working for as good as a basement pool room can be. Sounds best when you step to the table to break, which I can live with. Hallway to the right of the right speaker I think may be doing as much damage as the table - thinking no solution to that. Other corners, kind of where. Lots of hard surfaces.

    Do you just get some foam and place around - corners (bass trap?) ? There is a fair bit of unwanted reverb and /or echo happening for sure. Any recommendations ?

    Check out "acoustic panel build" in diy mods and tweaks. I share my experience. It's a lot of work but worth the effort.
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  • Thanks Machone - I'm reading through that thread now - very informative.
  • need a bit of expert advice ... cap's arrived and I'm looking to solder them soon. Just laying things out, and one issue I see is the original 40uf cap ... I ordered two 20uf caps to replace the 40uf (bottom right on board), and now am wondering exactly how they are supposed to be connected. I've taken a basic picture of how I "think" they are supposed to go ... does this look correct ?

    Appreciated, as always - any tips or advice before I start appreciated too.

    ucrwag7dew1i.jpg
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    edited October 2017
    That'll work. Solder the twists, and solder the leads to the board.

    When I had to join a pair of big (91uF) caps, I used a crimp connector and some insulated copper wire to add some length to the leads so they'd reach the circuit board. I really like crimped, then soldered as a splicing method.

    A bit of hot-melt glue holds everything stable.

    PolkLF_FinishedSM.JPG
  • gimpod
    gimpod Posts: 1,793
    need a bit of expert advice ... cap's arrived and I'm looking to solder them soon. Just laying things out, and one issue I see is the original 40uf cap ... I ordered two 20uf caps to replace the 40uf (bottom right on board), and now am wondering exactly how they are supposed to be connected. I've taken a basic picture of how I "think" they are supposed to go ... does this look correct ?

    Appreciated, as always - any tips or advice before I start appreciated too.

    ucrwag7dew1i.jpg

    Just a shameless plug Custom SDA Circuit Boards :blush: , look around and if you want a pair contact @westmassguy (David) at DSH Speaker Service.
    “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain
  • Might take you up on that Gimpod, as something went seriously wrong.

    Symptom is I have no tweeters.

    I think problem may be at R2 and C6.

    I thought when I took my old xo's apart, the c6 capacitor lead connected to the R2 resister and the other C6 lead connected to the board in the R2 box, just below where the R2 resister connects to the board.

    When I check Gimpods excellent parts placement web page, this seems to conflict with the above. But, if the C6 lead doesn't connect to the R2 lead, then I don't know where on the board to connect it - there are no solder marks on the back of the board that correspond to the parts placement web page.

    SRS 2.3 (non tl)

    I'll upload some pics - hoping someone can help
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    edited October 2017
    You've cracked the RESISTOR in the second picture and no doubt have broken the lead connection.

    There are pics all over this forum and the Internet in general showing the proper way to install/mount crossover components. I'm afraid you've made a royal mess of yours.

    Some tips for the future. Never stress a resistor lead and never bend it any closer than 1/4" from the body. Never twist the leads on caps or resistors, never! If you need to join two or more leads together do it with hook/loops. Needle nose pliers are your friend.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • lol, well they sure sound like I've made a royal mess of them ! Thanks for the tips.
  • 3rprbxs11938.png


    Took another run at it. Apart from the possible cracked resister pointed out by F1nut, I can't see where to connect jumper 4. My board doesn't have holes in these locations.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,477
    3rprbxs11938.png


    Took another run at it. Apart from the possible cracked resister pointed out by F1nut, I can't see where to connect jumper 4. My board doesn't have holes in these locations.

    You are using original boards correct? The board pictured is the newer larger board, I'm not sure but maybe it is different than the original factory boards.

    The new boards were designed by Tony aka gimpod.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    I am sure. You can't use Gimpod's board as a template for the stock board as they are different.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Shoehorning Sonicaps on the original boards requires a lot of creativity. Tony's boards make it a lot easier:

    ruw79smim4u2.jpg

    o39x1oe1fwft.jpg

    52ra8ijdao59.jpg



    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/

  • Shoehorning Sonicaps on the original boards requires a lot of creativity. Tony's boards make it a lot easier:

    ruw79smim4u2.jpg


    Yes, I am trying to shoehorn using the old boards - I'll contact westmassguy to order a set of these bigger boards.


    In the meantime - because I'm actually having some fun with all of this ... and still have some solder left ... and need some speakers while the new boards come ...

    Am I correct in assuming on the above board the resisters have been moved to the back of the board, to make more room for the sonicaps ?

    Still stuck on the correct wiring for the C6 R2 area. Not sure if this is a valid test, but I tried connecting just the tweeter array - and can confirm absolutely no sound coming out. Could be the 6.2 resister leads has been broken (however it feels solid).

    Also, I've wired the other crossover the same way, and also no tweeters, so unless I've cracked both 6.2 resisters (possible), I think at least part of the problem is likely to be in incorrect wiring.

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    edited October 2017
    Don't disassemble both boards. Disassemble one, use the other as a guide. When the first rebuilt board is confirmed to work...disassemble the second.




    Did you re-use, replace, or bridge the polyswitch? The resistor(s) can be tested with an ohmmeter. Solder connected (sticking) to the board nicely?
  • Schurkey wrote: »
    Don't disassemble both boards. Disassemble one, use the other as a guide. When the first rebuilt board is confirmed to work...disassemble the second.


    Did you re-use, replace, or bridge the polyswitch? The resistor(s) can be tested with an ohmmeter. Solder connected (sticking) to the board nicely?


    One at a time is good advice !

    I'll find a ohmmeter and check the resister.

    I bridged the polyswitch, but left the two other small brown resisters (750pf ?) resister in place - I've read on other threads this can/should be bridged as well - one recommended bridge with a .1uf cap. Unfortunately some other 2.3 xo threads have dead links to the pic's that I think may have been helpful.

    I did see this pic using the original boards (these are not mine) which seems to show the wiring for the 6.2 resister sitting on top of the 12uf cap. Just not sure where the 12 uf cap leads would then plug into the board .. thinking likely the resister 2 location .. ??

    c4dybcmmhsqg.jpg

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    I bridged the polyswitch, but left the two other small brown resisters (750pf ?) resister in place - I've read on other threads this can/should be bridged as well - one recommended bridge with a .1uf cap.
    If it's labeled in pF, it's not a resistor, it's a capacitor. If it's the 750pF silver-mica bypass cap for the 12uF mylar capacitor, it can be removed entirely as it is supposedly no longer needed with the higher-quality caps used to rebuild the board.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited October 2017
    750pf are NOT resistors, they're Silver Mica shunt caps. They should be removed. Do not jumper them, just remove them.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

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  • gimpod
    gimpod Posts: 1,793
    edited October 2017
    One at a time is good advice !

    I'll find a ohmmeter and check the resister.

    Check them all!!!
    I bridged the polyswitch, but left the two other small brown resisters (750pf ?) resister in place - I've read on other threads this can/should be bridged as well - one recommended bridge with a .1uf cap. Unfortunately some other 2.3 xo threads have dead links to the pic's that I think may have been helpful.

    I did see this pic using the original boards (these are not mine) which seems to show the wiring for the 6.2 resister sitting on top of the 12uf cap. Just not sure where the 12 uf cap leads would then plug into the board .. thinking likely the resister 2 location .. ??

    If you have no tweeters at all you have bigger problems than the R2 & C6 issue (that would only affect T2 the middle tweeter, the top & bottom tweeters should be working if wired right, you need to get the schematics and go over everything again, I would start at the polyswitch and go from there. check for bad/cold solder joints, bad components. Yes pull those 750pf silver mica caps and toss them don't put a jumper in place of them, R2 and C6 are wired in parallel and soldered in the R2 position.

    Your going to need to check out the rest of my site. Look at the Hardware (you'll need the nylon mounting hardware at least), Parts Lists (Again you'll need the nylon MATE & LOCK pin headers at least), the Hints & Tips section also download the schematic for the new board.

    And if this seems a bit much for you, you can always contact @westmassguy about fixing them for you.

    Thanks and good luck.
    “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain
  • Thanks Gimpod - really appreciate the advice.

    I did end up getting them working temporarily - yes, my soldering had to be redone in a few places, but they definitely sounded improved. However, I was not at all happy or proud of the jerry rigging required, and they most certainly would have been a source of problems down the road - so I didn't even bother to put the passives back on to really give them a listen - so, the overall improvement is unknown at this point.

    Parts are now de-soldered and patiently awaiting your bigger and better boards to arrive. Resisters actually checked out ok, but they are inexpensive and as I needed some more items from sonic craft anyways, I just re-ordered to start fresh with new resister and full leads.

    Lots to learn - enjoying the journey.