sda srs 2.3 modifications
Comments
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At least his hair was perfect, right? No word of pina coladas at Trader Vic's, though.
Hair is ALWAYS perfect....
Hair metal guys envy him -
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I'm surprised that bypassing the polyswitch makes a difference in the SDA. The tweeters and polyswitch are not part of the SDA circuitry.Iamtheslime wrote: »I soldered over the polyswitch on the left and my what a difference. Its silly really - like mono to stereo almost !
Can now definitely hear the sda effect too .. there is a marked difference in plugging it in and out that with the left treble lacking I really couldn't notice.
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True, but without the tweeters working it sounds like mud.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
This is the only photo I have of Jesses house. The interior pics only show up black......a black like no other I have ever seen......
I was only allowed to leave after signing over my soul........
His cat still haunts me....always there where ever I go......
Why do y'all think I keep moving around the country???
Only to maintain my sanity.....
2.3's so black they make anti-matter look logical.
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Oh, S**t. I am presently putting Black Hole 5 in my 2.3's and I just popped online to read the threads on here about where exactly to place it. Jesse wrote somewhere that he recommended putting Black Hole 5 in while the cabinets are open. I just thought it was helpful advice, but now I see that IT'S A TRAP! This substance will suck out my soul and drain my blood, won't it?
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Oh, S**t. I am presently putting Black Hole 5 in my 2.3's and I just popped online to read the threads on here about where exactly to place it. Jesse wrote somewhere that he recommended putting Black Hole 5 in while the cabinets are open. I just thought it was helpful advice, but now I see that IT'S A TRAP! This substance will suck out my soul and drain my blood, won't it?
Run.....Run while you can....never look back..... -
....The interior pics only show up black......a black like no other I have ever seen......
So *that's* where all the unobtainium black paint went! -
Iamtheslime wrote: »Yep, but the pool table has got to stay - its never going to be a perfect listening room - but working for as good as a basement pool room can be. Sounds best when you step to the table to break, which I can live with. Hallway to the right of the right speaker I think may be doing as much damage as the table - thinking no solution to that. Other corners, kind of where. Lots of hard surfaces.
Do you just get some foam and place around - corners (bass trap?) ? There is a fair bit of unwanted reverb and /or echo happening for sure. Any recommendations ?
Check out "acoustic panel build" in diy mods and tweaks. I share my experience. It's a lot of work but worth the effort.Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
Thanks Machone - I'm reading through that thread now - very informative.
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need a bit of expert advice ... cap's arrived and I'm looking to solder them soon. Just laying things out, and one issue I see is the original 40uf cap ... I ordered two 20uf caps to replace the 40uf (bottom right on board), and now am wondering exactly how they are supposed to be connected. I've taken a basic picture of how I "think" they are supposed to go ... does this look correct ?
Appreciated, as always - any tips or advice before I start appreciated too.
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clearer pic -
That'll work. Solder the twists, and solder the leads to the board.
When I had to join a pair of big (91uF) caps, I used a crimp connector and some insulated copper wire to add some length to the leads so they'd reach the circuit board. I really like crimped, then soldered as a splicing method.
A bit of hot-melt glue holds everything stable.
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merci beaucoup !
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Iamtheslime wrote: »need a bit of expert advice ... cap's arrived and I'm looking to solder them soon. Just laying things out, and one issue I see is the original 40uf cap ... I ordered two 20uf caps to replace the 40uf (bottom right on board), and now am wondering exactly how they are supposed to be connected. I've taken a basic picture of how I "think" they are supposed to go ... does this look correct ?
Appreciated, as always - any tips or advice before I start appreciated too.
Just a shameless plug Custom SDA Circuit Boards
, look around and if you want a pair contact @westmassguy (David) at DSH Speaker Service. “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
Might take you up on that Gimpod, as something went seriously wrong.
Symptom is I have no tweeters.
I think problem may be at R2 and C6.
I thought when I took my old xo's apart, the c6 capacitor lead connected to the R2 resister and the other C6 lead connected to the board in the R2 box, just below where the R2 resister connects to the board.
When I check Gimpods excellent parts placement web page, this seems to conflict with the above. But, if the C6 lead doesn't connect to the R2 lead, then I don't know where on the board to connect it - there are no solder marks on the back of the board that correspond to the parts placement web page.
SRS 2.3 (non tl)
I'll upload some pics - hoping someone can help -
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You've cracked the RESISTOR in the second picture and no doubt have broken the lead connection.
There are pics all over this forum and the Internet in general showing the proper way to install/mount crossover components. I'm afraid you've made a royal mess of yours.
Some tips for the future. Never stress a resistor lead and never bend it any closer than 1/4" from the body. Never twist the leads on caps or resistors, never! If you need to join two or more leads together do it with hook/loops. Needle nose pliers are your friend.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
lol, well they sure sound like I've made a royal mess of them ! Thanks for the tips.
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Took another run at it. Apart from the possible cracked resister pointed out by F1nut, I can't see where to connect jumper 4. My board doesn't have holes in these locations.
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Iamtheslime wrote: »
Took another run at it. Apart from the possible cracked resister pointed out by F1nut, I can't see where to connect jumper 4. My board doesn't have holes in these locations.
You are using original boards correct? The board pictured is the newer larger board, I'm not sure but maybe it is different than the original factory boards.
The new boards were designed by Tony aka gimpod. -
I am sure. You can't use Gimpod's board as a template for the stock board as they are different.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Shoehorning Sonicaps on the original boards requires a lot of creativity. Tony's boards make it a lot easier:
Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »Shoehorning Sonicaps on the original boards requires a lot of creativity. Tony's boards make it a lot easier:
Yes, I am trying to shoehorn using the old boards - I'll contact westmassguy to order a set of these bigger boards.
In the meantime - because I'm actually having some fun with all of this ... and still have some solder left ... and need some speakers while the new boards come ...
Am I correct in assuming on the above board the resisters have been moved to the back of the board, to make more room for the sonicaps ?
Still stuck on the correct wiring for the C6 R2 area. Not sure if this is a valid test, but I tried connecting just the tweeter array - and can confirm absolutely no sound coming out. Could be the 6.2 resister leads has been broken (however it feels solid).
Also, I've wired the other crossover the same way, and also no tweeters, so unless I've cracked both 6.2 resisters (possible), I think at least part of the problem is likely to be in incorrect wiring.
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Don't disassemble both boards. Disassemble one, use the other as a guide. When the first rebuilt board is confirmed to work...disassemble the second.
Did you re-use, replace, or bridge the polyswitch? The resistor(s) can be tested with an ohmmeter. Solder connected (sticking) to the board nicely? -
Don't disassemble both boards. Disassemble one, use the other as a guide. When the first rebuilt board is confirmed to work...disassemble the second.
Did you re-use, replace, or bridge the polyswitch? The resistor(s) can be tested with an ohmmeter. Solder connected (sticking) to the board nicely?
One at a time is good advice !
I'll find a ohmmeter and check the resister.
I bridged the polyswitch, but left the two other small brown resisters (750pf ?) resister in place - I've read on other threads this can/should be bridged as well - one recommended bridge with a .1uf cap. Unfortunately some other 2.3 xo threads have dead links to the pic's that I think may have been helpful.
I did see this pic using the original boards (these are not mine) which seems to show the wiring for the 6.2 resister sitting on top of the 12uf cap. Just not sure where the 12 uf cap leads would then plug into the board .. thinking likely the resister 2 location .. ??
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If it's labeled in pF, it's not a resistor, it's a capacitor. If it's the 750pF silver-mica bypass cap for the 12uF mylar capacitor, it can be removed entirely as it is supposedly no longer needed with the higher-quality caps used to rebuild the board.Iamtheslime wrote: »I bridged the polyswitch, but left the two other small brown resisters (750pf ?) resister in place - I've read on other threads this can/should be bridged as well - one recommended bridge with a .1uf cap.
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750pf are NOT resistors, they're Silver Mica shunt caps. They should be removed. Do not jumper them, just remove them.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Iamtheslime wrote: »One at a time is good advice !
I'll find a ohmmeter and check the resister.
Check them all!!!Iamtheslime wrote: »I bridged the polyswitch, but left the two other small brown resisters (750pf ?) resister in place - I've read on other threads this can/should be bridged as well - one recommended bridge with a .1uf cap. Unfortunately some other 2.3 xo threads have dead links to the pic's that I think may have been helpful.
I did see this pic using the original boards (these are not mine) which seems to show the wiring for the 6.2 resister sitting on top of the 12uf cap. Just not sure where the 12 uf cap leads would then plug into the board .. thinking likely the resister 2 location .. ??
If you have no tweeters at all you have bigger problems than the R2 & C6 issue (that would only affect T2 the middle tweeter, the top & bottom tweeters should be working if wired right, you need to get the schematics and go over everything again, I would start at the polyswitch and go from there. check for bad/cold solder joints, bad components. Yes pull those 750pf silver mica caps and toss them don't put a jumper in place of them, R2 and C6 are wired in parallel and soldered in the R2 position.
Your going to need to check out the rest of my site. Look at the Hardware (you'll need the nylon mounting hardware at least), Parts Lists (Again you'll need the nylon MATE & LOCK pin headers at least), the Hints & Tips section also download the schematic for the new board.
And if this seems a bit much for you, you can always contact @westmassguy about fixing them for you.
Thanks and good luck.“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
Thanks Gimpod - really appreciate the advice.
I did end up getting them working temporarily - yes, my soldering had to be redone in a few places, but they definitely sounded improved. However, I was not at all happy or proud of the jerry rigging required, and they most certainly would have been a source of problems down the road - so I didn't even bother to put the passives back on to really give them a listen - so, the overall improvement is unknown at this point.
Parts are now de-soldered and patiently awaiting your bigger and better boards to arrive. Resisters actually checked out ok, but they are inexpensive and as I needed some more items from sonic craft anyways, I just re-ordered to start fresh with new resister and full leads.
Lots to learn - enjoying the journey.
