Whats the best adhesive to glue ceramic magnets on Polk 6.5" drivers?
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tat
Posts: 159
Im on my way to get some JBWeld. Im not sure which type I will end up with yet though. Probably doesnt matter other than avoiding obvious like types for "underwater use"; wood etc. I think there is a set with 2 seperate tubes and a set with 2 syringes together with 1 plunger for easy application.
When freedom is outlawed, only outlaws are free...
Comments
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Loctite Power Grab is what you want to use.
Home Depot carries it
See the pics in this thread
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/171529/polk-10b-monitors-crossovers-and-tweeter-upgrades -
afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
I've re-set many magnets and have found 2-part epoxy to be the superior adhesive.
my 3.1TLs
I will fix your shifted magnets for free.
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I used JB Weld, the original 2 part epoxy (the dark stuff). Takes a while to cure, but it really holds."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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NF, what are the Sharpies and drill bit for?I disabled signatures.
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Well I left before the Power Grab was suggested so I picked up some ACE brand Quick Set Epoxy (2 part) 1500psi. The power Grab looks like it is easy to work with and make inconspicuous. Im sure they all work fairly well if applied accurately.
I was a bit confused by the attchd thread that has pics of disassembled 6.5" driver along with explanations on how to glue it up. I was going to just run a bead along the top of the magnet (with speaker face down) where it meets frame. But it looks like the above thread has several other places it suggests treating.When freedom is outlawed, only outlaws are free... -
I thought I already cleared that question up for you. Apply it top and bottom, that's it.
BTW, if you got the 5 minute epoxy you're going to have some messy fun. I suggest you return it and pick up the Power Grab.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I thought I already cleared that question up for you. Apply it top and bottom, that's it.
BTW, if you got the 5 minute epoxy you're going to have some messy fun. I suggest you return it and pick up the Power Grab.
NO KIDDING!! I did the drivers in my SDA 1C's with JBWeld before anyone around here started suggesting Power Grab and they look like fecal matter. I did 2 sets of spares with Power Grab. Sooooooooo much nicer and cleaner to work with plus this time I didn't end up gluing some Q-tip's, paper or my T-Shirt to a driver.“The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain -
Its best to apply it on both sides of the magnet filling in the corner where it touches the plated steel,
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Maybe ill get the grab. I just bought a pair of CRS as well so Ill have a bunch to do at once. I wasnt sure about the dual tweeter version of CRS (esp with SL1000), but theres a decent deal on these in great condition now and I dont wanna wait any longer lol. I have a pair of Peerless I can drop in for the stereo SL1000's if I find the 1000's tiring, but I suspect I will like the air. These peerless are smooth and unfatiguing though, best thing about these 7's.When freedom is outlawed, only outlaws are free...
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Peerless tweeters cannot be swapped around with any other tweeter Polk used except, IIRC, on the RTA-12B and C's which have the same crossovers regardless of tweeter. The Peerless tweeters absolutely crush the SL1000 and SL2000's, you will find that out in short order.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
NF, what are the Sharpies and drill bit for?
Larry's rings and marking cut lines on Dynamat.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Yeah the crossover is my worry, hopefully someone will chime in with a solution. I measured my Peerless both at 3. whatever ohms DCR (4 ohm impedance) but everyone keeps saying they are 8 ohm. Is there a known conflict with switching Peerless for Sl1000s in CRS's or is it merely potential problem bc of crossover change?
I had the SL2000's and can recall the fatiguing spike but I also appreciated things about that tweeter.When freedom is outlawed, only outlaws are free... -
The CRS never came with SL1000 or Peerless tweeters. You cannot drop the Peerless into them either. Get the RD0194-1, which is the proper tweeter and better than the Peerless.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Well this 1984 pair has them in it. 4 of them. Ive heard that they even came with Peerless.When freedom is outlawed, only outlaws are free...
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I don't think they came with peerless. They did come with the SL1000's in the early dual tweeter version. The main point that needs to be kept in mind, is that they are NOT interchangeable due to differences in the crossover. Best thing to do with all models is to upgrade to the RDO194's. No need to keep going around in circles on this.
2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer. -
Disconnect the outer dimensional tweeters, they're not needed.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Maybe I am getting old and starting to forget stuff, but damn, I sure don't recall seeing SL1000's in the blade/blade CRS.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I had them in and out a couple times, but that is what was in them when I got them from a guy in Knoxville. I never really researched it to see if it was proper though.2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.
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SOB, after hunting around online......yep, very early (1983) CRS came with SL1000's.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
SOB, after hunting around online......yep, very early (1983) CRS came with SL1000's.
Betcha that drove you nuts
2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
^^ Am I the only one that found @F1nut 's last post funny?I don't think they came with peerless. They did come with the SL1000's in the early dual tweeter version. The main point that needs to be kept in mind, is that they are NOT interchangeable due to differences in the crossover. Best thing to do with all models is to upgrade to the RDO194's. No need to keep going around in circles on this.
^^
I bought the pair. I was getting ready to leave work early and check for myself.. .2ch rig:Speakers: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress modsPreamplifier: Parasound P5Amplifier: Parasound A23CDP: Pioneer DV-563ACables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB, AudioQuest Q2s, AudioQuest NRG X(preamp) -
txcoastal1 wrote: »
Drove my curiosity, that's for sure.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
txcoastal1 wrote: »
Drove my curiosity, that's for sure.
So any prediction on differences in the crossovers??2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
Id love to hear people summarize that...
I am pushing the Peerless bc 1) I have a pair on hand already and 2) they should fit the SL1000 routing. I would love to hear WHY the Peerless would be a poor match for the above model, I think the schematics are available here:
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/55888/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-more-stereo-dimensional-array-sda#latest
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/1/8/5/1/1/26679.pdfWhen freedom is outlawed, only outlaws are free... -
Because the Peerless was never used in any SDA speaker. That I am 100% certain about. You can't go swapping tweeters or drivers around just because they have the same resistance. There are many other important parameters.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
txcoastal1 wrote: »
No, but maybe we can get one of these guys to give us the values, which we can then compare to the SL2000 clad CRS.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I think the 2nd link I added is of the SL2000 bc it notes switch from fuse to protection. I havent seen an earlier schem.When freedom is outlawed, only outlaws are free...
