Polk 10B Monitors. Crossovers and Tweeter upgrades

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wallycroc
wallycroc Posts: 4
in Vintage Speakers
Just found a pair of very nice 10B's that a bought for a great price on Craig's list. I hooked them up to a vintage 60W/ch Kenwood amp. They seem underpowered. I will try my Onkyo 100W/ch receiver. I am guessing these were from the mid 80's and wondering if I should leave them as is or replace/upgrade the crossovers and tweeters? Any suggestions.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,850
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    60 wpc should be plenty to drive those speakers. Can you describe what you don't like about the sound?

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • JPete
    JPete Posts: 295
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    After you describe what you don't like about the sound, or why they seem underpowered, tell us how much $ you have to spend on them.. You can end up dropping a ton of money on Monitors with expensive caps and resistors, RD 0194 tweeters, dynamat, Larry's Rings, etc...

    I decided to spend money on my CRS+'s first... Well worth it to me since they get most of the air time. I did put the RD0194 tweeters in my 10Bs, and that made enough of a difference to keep me happy until I get around to the other mods. I think that's the first step for improving 10s, but some may disagree.
    Lexicon RT-10, Parasound P5, McCormack DNA 0.5, Polk SDA CRS+, SVS Sub
    Schiit Modi, Luminous Audio Axiom II, McCormack DNA-1, Digital Phase AP 2
    Marantz AV7701, Emotiva XPA-5, Paradigm 11se Mkii, DCM Time Windows, NHT 2C, SVS Sub

    Spares - Kenwood C1 Pre, NAD 2200PE, Polk Monitor 10B, Polk Model 11, other odds and ends
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  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,478
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    First make sure you know which model you have & what tweeter you have as stated above.
    1) make sure your mid woofers are good. Lightly press (in/out evenly) to make sure there is no scratchiness from voice coil awclamy5ax2r.jpeg
    2)push in on the passive radiator & the mid woofers will come out & should slowly go back to normal position 3-5seconds. Thats good. If they dont come out-there is a leak somewhere 9p9lma5a6us3.jpeg

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    Randy/Maine
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  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,478
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    .Best way to make sure you have the correct woofers is to remove them 1 at time & look at tags on back. Look up info here http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/38755/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-more-all-models-except-sda#latest .......While your at it Loctite the magnets 3.00 1tube will do at WallyMart. I do the inside one first & spread it out with finger & take excess & apply it to the outside one. Then i wipe it down with paper towel. Make sure you have a few close to you. Easy job. This is to prevent magnet from shifting
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    Randy/Maine
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  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,478
    edited February 2016
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    Picture order is not correct here & make sure all area's are filled with glue before drying process. gsllovrlkmv2.jpeg
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    Post edited by boston1450 on
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    Randy/Maine
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  • wallycroc
    wallycroc Posts: 4
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    JPete wrote: »
    After you describe what you don't like about the sound, or why they seem underpowered, tell us how much $ you have to spend on them.. You can end up dropping a ton of money on Monitors with expensive caps and resistors, RD 0194 tweeters, dynamat, Larry's Rings, etc...

    I decided to spend money on my CRS+'s first... Well worth it to me since they get most of the air time. I did put the RD0194 tweeters in my 10Bs, and that made enough of a difference to keep me happy until I get around to the other mods. I think that's the first step for improving 10s, but some may disagree.
    JPete wrote: »
    After you describe what you don't like about the sound, or why they seem underpowered, tell us how much $ you have to spend on them.. You can end up dropping a ton of money on Monitors with expensive caps and resistors, RD 0194 tweeters, dynamat, Larry's Rings, etc...

    I decided to spend money on my CRS+'s first... Well worth it to me since they get most of the air time. I did put the RD0194 tweeters in my 10Bs, and that made enough of a difference to keep me happy until I get around to the other mods. I think that's the first step for improving 10s, but some may disagree.

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  • wallycroc
    wallycroc Posts: 4
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    Any idea what the cost is on RD0194 tweeters. I have a request into Polk for a quote and hopefully they will respond soon. As far as the crossovers I am confident I can handle cap/resistor replacements from what I have seen on the web.

    I may dig out my old Denon 200W/amp that used to power my Polk LS90s.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,850
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    CALL Polk
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • wallycroc
    wallycroc Posts: 4
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    Another question regarding the 10B's. Mine have dual fuses while I see others with only one fuse. What is the difference? Did Polk change something?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,624
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    Polk was always making changes on the fly. What you describe could be a fused mid woofer as well as tweeter. Then again maybe they made another change and yours could be a spare fuse holder. Only one of two ways to find out.
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  • JPete
    JPete Posts: 295
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    You should post some pictures of the speakers. Drivers and binding post cup with the twin fuses. Just because.
    Lexicon RT-10, Parasound P5, McCormack DNA 0.5, Polk SDA CRS+, SVS Sub
    Schiit Modi, Luminous Audio Axiom II, McCormack DNA-1, Digital Phase AP 2
    Marantz AV7701, Emotiva XPA-5, Paradigm 11se Mkii, DCM Time Windows, NHT 2C, SVS Sub

    Spares - Kenwood C1 Pre, NAD 2200PE, Polk Monitor 10B, Polk Model 11, other odds and ends
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