Take it completely out of the circuit. Even hooked up with no gain, it still adds noise.
"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass
Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S-Tubes add soul!
Maintenance has NOTHING to do with making a eq sound better. It's a noise and distortion machine, that's all.
H9
"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass
Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S-Tubes add soul!
"They thought we were too loud, but shoot, I had four army blankets folded over my amp, and the volume level was on 2. I'm used to playin' on 10!" S.R.V.
In my experience a eq in use with a cheap system will make it sound more dynamic [if that's the word I'm looking for] However they do add alot of noise.This can be evidenced by listening in bypass mode and then taking it out of system, you can hear just how muffled it made the signal.When using one diligence to the volume should be observed as boosting the highs at higher volumes can easily blow a tweeter.
My advise for the op would be to look at pawn shops or classified ads for a integrated,or receiver amp. A decent name brand from the 80's can usually be found for between 50-100 [or even less] And being designed for music use only will out perform the lower to mid market ht amps in terms of musical sound quality,and therefore can provide for a cheap substitute until something of higher performance can be obtained
I see some good advice, mixed in with a lot of tired generalizations, and unless they are sitting in your garage listening with you, very doubtful to even guess as to what you are hearing there.
Received my new router bit and eager to try deucekazoo's templet.
I'm back and forth on the champfer detail on the front edge, which is why I haven't made the grills. M10's have the champfer and the grills are fitted to the champfer.
I was considering a different shape for the grill but really need to see the original concept through...
There is a difference in running one speaker with a MW6510 next to the original, 6503. Resistance is the same but it seems brighter. Still plan on replacing once I get new 6503's from Polk.
I see some good advice, mixed in with a lot of tired generalizations, and unless they are sitting in your garage listening with you, very doubtful to even guess as to what you are hearing there.
Here, Here! I have had a blast with my first speaker build. And folks on here have been great help making these a success.
I see some good advice, mixed in with a lot of tired generalizations, and unless they are sitting in your garage listening with you, very doubtful to even guess as to what you are hearing there.
Doubtful for you maybe. Don't speak for the rest of us.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
I love the cabinets. Awesome work. I'm jealous. I wish I had the workshop and the skills as well. Are you building Monitor 7's next? Will it be a new thread? If you are building Monitor 7's I'd love to see them in a mahogany, burl, or an exotic veneer, not that I have any say. Compared to the 10's I would say the 7's are more of an indoor critical listening speaker. There will be less bass thump, but the bass will be there with a decent amp, and you may hear things you never heard before in what you listen too.
2cents on the equalizer and receiver imo. Cranking Metallica in the garage for a concert like experience with sound bouncing everywhere, the eq is fine, although a sub does wonders for concert like bass. Good equalizers are very expensive, often more of a professional type, and as mentioned have there place. The cheap ones imo have their place too. If you want that live concert sound and are plain rocking out, go for it. I used an eq for my little Monitor 4A's that have no bass compared to 10's when I wanted to jam, or for better Home Theater bass on a budget when I didn't have a sub. I would rather have had a sub, but that is a longer story. As people have mentioned the eq adds noise, distortion, and reduces the stereo imaging.
Similarly, a decent higher current amp does wonders, even on smaller speakers. Years ago when I got my Hafler DH-220 amp I heard things I never heard before compared to my generic receiver. Even the bass was better with the little Monitor 4A's. My receiver today is much better, but the bass still has more impact and detail with the separate amp. At average or even loud listening levels the bass may not seem louder, volume wise, but I think you will find, like many people, it is more prominent and has more presence and impact.
Still testing, now comparing to the rest of my collection. Interesting results.
Also quantifying the use of an equalizer.
Following logical comparisons. Trying my music with with the equalizer, with the equalizer but disabling the slide adjustments, then switching from neutral equalizer, to straight feed from the receiver
So going from neutral sound through the equalizer to balanced sound, that's a no brainer... Going from neutral sound through the equalizer, to no equalizer, there is a diiference. Very slight, but a difference.
I conducted my test by having the equalizer on tape monitor, equalizer in bypass, and I switch tape monitor, on and off, not looking to see which is which. I performed this test many times, different music, even with other people not telling them what I'm testing, simply "better, worst" switching back and forth.
Results, 4 times out of 5 I pick the monitor off as the better sound. Most other people can't tell the difference.
Now this is a simple test using my ear and nothing else. Yes there is a difference, but between having an equalizer or not is a moot point to me. The equalizer is a good tool for enjoying my music,
This is the next thing I'm trying. One suggested buying an intigrated receiver. I found this unit and going to compare with the Denon HT.
2cents on the equalizer and receiver imo. Cranking Metallica in the garage for a concert like experience with sound bouncing everywhere, the eq is fine, although a sub does wonders for concert like bass. Good equalizers are very expensive, often more of a professional type, and as mentioned have there place. The cheap ones imo have their place too. If you want that live concert sound and are plain rocking out, go for it. I used an eq for my little Monitor 4A's that have no bass compared to 10's when I wanted to jam, or for better Home Theater bass on a budget when I didn't have a sub. I would rather have had a sub, but that is a longer story. As people have mentioned the eq adds noise, distortion, and reduces the stereo imaging.
Yes, I agree, Equalizers have a place. Still staying in the lower end of the spectrum with hardware, mostly vintage, I believe quality of the recording, good speakers and an equalizer for me gets 90% to ultimate sound quality. And we can all argue the percentage and "ultimate" But that last 10% is very expensive.
I'm in it for the nastalgic fun, learning more about what I once enjoyed and $1000 with some skills can go a long way...
The Monitor 7s use the MW6502 4 ohm woofer. The crossover you show in the photo uses the SL2000 Tweeter. The replacement is the RDO-194-1. If you want to use the RDO-198-1, the crossover must be modified. Follow this schematic: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/18767.pdf
The Monitor 7s use the MW6502 4 ohm woofer. The crossover you show in the photo uses the SL2000 Tweeter. The replacement is the RDO-194-1. If you want to use the RDO-198-1, the crossover must be modified. Follow this schematic: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/18767.pdf
Well, the weekend again and I think I can call this project done. I have one last task to recess the tweeters. Up to now I had surface mounted the RDO-194-1 tweeters. This was ok but gave the project an unfinished look.
The tweeter has a very small lip. I didn't want to recess the entire tweeter but I knew making a recess to fit the lip was going to take a very precise template that I do not have the ability to create.
A very nice forum member (deucekazoo) contacted me and said he could make me a template for the sl2000. He cut out a couple trials, one exactly the same size and another that was slightly larger than the lip. After a couple trials, the template that was just a bit larger worked well.
Using the router with the prescribed collar and bit, I cut a recess the same thickness as lip, 5/32" or just over 1/8" deep.
The tweeter was tight but better tight than loose. They turned out great.
So if you are in need of a templet for the SL 2000/RDO 194-1 Tweeter, drop a line to deucekazoo. I'm sure he can fix you up for a fee. I'm putting mine in my template drawer for the next pair of tweeters.
This was my first DIY speaker project. My initial concept was flawed and I want to thank all the members that guided me to a great pair of speakers. I had one forum member ask what would I do different if I did this again...
First, I will not do this project again. This was a blast but this took more weekends than I have for a pair of speakers. I have learned a great deal about how speakers function, what makes one speaker better than another, and most importantly what not to do: So let me share some mistakes I made, lessons I learned and what is next.
First, what is different in my project than the originals.
The box is made from MDF not particle board.
The front and back are 1" thickness, the sides 3/4". The originals are 3/4" all around.
My tweeters are 1" higher than the originals to give room for a horizontal brace above (and below) the drivers for stability.
The originals have a "baffle/support" that sits between the drivers and runs from the back to the front. I would say this is more for support for the weakest part of the front, but could also separate the drivers. Mine do not have this baffle because I put my crossovers in the wrong location behind the drivers. The original Crossovers are behind the PR.
I used 1/8" real wood veneer for aesthetics. The originals have a vinyl wrap.
Now for the next projects:
Though these are beautiful, I would not use wood veneer on my next pair of DIY's. Mainly because of cost and effort. I have done it once but I will use a quality textured vinyl wrap on the next pair and concentrate more on the sound than the aesthetics.
I highly recommend the purchase of new drivers and tweeters. Vintage is nice but you risk ending up with drivers at different stages of degradation. In my case, I have had to replace one MW6503 with a MW6510. It does make a difference. Though one driver did lock up on me due to mishandling, another has a dragging issue and can sound bad at higher volumes. So buy new drivers.
Don't get creative with the sound batting, you will only diminish the sound. Keep it original.
If you update the crossovers, understand there is a burn-in period. I was so disappointed when I first heard the speakers but now after 30-40 hours of playing, they are incredible.
I have also come to the conclusion that Monitor 10's are great speakers but I am looking forward to finishing the 7's. There is a definite opinion that 10's have some flaws. I have a pair of 5's and have always loved them. I compared them to my new Monitor 10's, they are respectable and with a little work, they could be just as good as the 10's
And lastly: Don't post a picture of your audio system on an audiophile forum. They will rip you a new one...
So, again, thank you all for your help. I am so very pleased with the results and these speakers are incredible! They sound better than the originals and have become the flagship of my collection. I do plan on making original grills but for now, I'm going to run them naked and free!
Impressed the Hell out of me, that's for sure.
Not just for the build quality, but for the fact that you were intelligent enough to
recognize that most people are here to help out; there are countless people who have less than 20 posts and are never heard from again because they get all bent out of shape.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with this build.
So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?
Impressed the Hell out of me, that's for sure.
Not just for the build quality, but for the fact that you were intelligent enough to
recognize that most people are here to help out; there are countless people who have less than 20 posts and are never heard from again because they get all bent out of shape.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with this build.
Perfectly described. I've been following this from the start, I have nowhere near the knowledge of other members to comment. You took the guidance and constructive Critisism like a champ, without getting your panties In a knot. Those speakers are gorgeous. Hope you have some spare weekends to enjoy them.
2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.
Your woodworking skills are excellent. The rest will come in time. I'd re-think the veneer on the 7s. I think you'll find them to be more impressive than the 10s when completed.
Your woodworking skills are excellent. The rest will come in time. I'd re-think the veneer on the 7s. I think you'll find them to be more impressive than the 10s when completed.
Thank you all for the comments. It's been a long but very enjoyable road.
Westmassguy, I want to especially thank you. Your advise has been concise, polite and extremely helpful. I'm now listening to studio recordings of Chopin with the Yamaha Natural Sound Receiver and just the new 10's. Oh My! I'm hooked. I'm almost through all my favorite CD'S and I can't help but grin and try to find ways to make my listen experience even better. In time...
The 7 boxes are already made just like the 10's so I will eventually have those to compare. I think they will be even better with an updated crossover, and new components.
All they lack is about 20 hours of sanding, finishing, and about $400 worth of parts. I'll post the build when I can get to the project. Maybe in the fall. I'm starting to accumulate the parts, spreading out the costs... I may want you to build my crossovers!
I still have four Dayton classic paper drivers and tweeters. I think I'm going to use those for some bookshelf speakers an give them out as gifts. That's where I'll use the vinyl.
I have to admit one major improvement, setting the tweeters not only made the install look professional, but the bass came alive. I must have had air leaks which is very likely since I didn't use a seal until I made the final recessed installation.
I'm close to getting rid of the equalizer. I'm not far from neutral on all frequencies, still adding a little bass and reducing the mids. These tweeters are awesome. I look forward to RDO-198's in the sevens.
The RD0 tweeters are a huge improvement over the SLxxx series. Not many manufacturers support products 20-30 years old but Polk R & D'd those to improve them while still making them electrically equivalent.
Enjoy
H9
"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass
Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S-Tubes add soul!
Will, you've been exceptional through this process and I commend you. You are a rarity in these parts and it's been a real joy watching this come to fruition.
As far as the flaws with the monitor 10, don't ever take that as anything but a fact. There is a reason speakers are no longer made that way. Speaker design was still rather rudimentary in those days and we have learned much since then. Make no mistake that they and all the vintage polks are still great speakers due to the voicing and build quality. Some are still even end game type speakers for many in a world of million dollar speakers.
Will, I have no idea how those sound but the wood working looks fantastic and flawless. Over at AK a similar project was proposed ,this time JBL studio monitors and to be mass produced. This guy had no idea what he was getting into and to a man shot him down w/o mercy. Here you weathered the verbal storm, changed and perfected your design features and took some advice along the way. Most all here say SDAs can not be reproduced w/o any monetary returns and not worth the effort. Here you take the monitor line and looks like did the M 10s some justice. What needs to be done if you even care is to meter and do an a-b blind test w/ stock originals and see which bests out. I never heard 10s but do own '78 M7s w/ x-overs redone by Dave. Did you finally tally up what that set cost you with not even counting your labor or sweat equity ?
Comments
Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
H9
Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
http://www.stereophile.com/solidpreamps/692cello/#ImhXKfBoUxtxfswq.97
My advise for the op would be to look at pawn shops or classified ads for a integrated,or receiver amp. A decent name brand from the 80's can usually be found for between 50-100 [or even less] And being designed for music use only will out perform the lower to mid market ht amps in terms of musical sound quality,and therefore can provide for a cheap substitute until something of higher performance can be obtained
I see some good advice, mixed in with a lot of tired generalizations, and unless they are sitting in your garage listening with you, very doubtful to even guess as to what you are hearing there.
B+W-Sold
Epos-Now gone
Infinity-Sold
Advent-Now gone
Yamaha A-S801
Yamaha RX-V377
Yamaha RX-A860
Yamaha RX-A3060
Harman Kardon Hk-350i
Harman Kardon Hk-........
Harman Kardon PM-665
Harman Kardon HK-775
Pioneer.......Stereo Receiver
Received my new router bit and eager to try deucekazoo's templet.
I'm back and forth on the champfer detail on the front edge, which is why I haven't made the grills. M10's have the champfer and the grills are fitted to the champfer.
I was considering a different shape for the grill but really need to see the original concept through...
There is a difference in running one speaker with a MW6510 next to the original, 6503. Resistance is the same but it seems brighter. Still plan on replacing once I get new 6503's from Polk.
Whoa! Interesting but unobtainable.
I would love to hear what a $30,000 system gets you.
Here, Here! I have had a blast with my first speaker build. And folks on here have been great help making these a success.
Doubtful for you maybe. Don't speak for the rest of us.
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
2cents on the equalizer and receiver imo. Cranking Metallica in the garage for a concert like experience with sound bouncing everywhere, the eq is fine, although a sub does wonders for concert like bass. Good equalizers are very expensive, often more of a professional type, and as mentioned have there place. The cheap ones imo have their place too. If you want that live concert sound and are plain rocking out, go for it. I used an eq for my little Monitor 4A's that have no bass compared to 10's when I wanted to jam, or for better Home Theater bass on a budget when I didn't have a sub. I would rather have had a sub, but that is a longer story. As people have mentioned the eq adds noise, distortion, and reduces the stereo imaging.
Similarly, a decent higher current amp does wonders, even on smaller speakers. Years ago when I got my Hafler DH-220 amp I heard things I never heard before compared to my generic receiver. Even the bass was better with the little Monitor 4A's. My receiver today is much better, but the bass still has more impact and detail with the separate amp. At average or even loud listening levels the bass may not seem louder, volume wise, but I think you will find, like many people, it is more prominent and has more presence and impact.
Still testing, now comparing to the rest of my collection. Interesting results.
Also quantifying the use of an equalizer.
Following logical comparisons. Trying my music with with the equalizer, with the equalizer but disabling the slide adjustments, then switching from neutral equalizer, to straight feed from the receiver
So going from neutral sound through the equalizer to balanced sound, that's a no brainer... Going from neutral sound through the equalizer, to no equalizer, there is a diiference. Very slight, but a difference.
I conducted my test by having the equalizer on tape monitor, equalizer in bypass, and I switch tape monitor, on and off, not looking to see which is which. I performed this test many times, different music, even with other people not telling them what I'm testing, simply "better, worst" switching back and forth.
Results, 4 times out of 5 I pick the monitor off as the better sound. Most other people can't tell the difference.
Now this is a simple test using my ear and nothing else. Yes there is a difference, but between having an equalizer or not is a moot point to me. The equalizer is a good tool for enjoying my music,
This is the next thing I'm trying. One suggested buying an intigrated receiver. I found this unit and going to compare with the Denon HT.
Yes, I agree, Equalizers have a place. Still staying in the lower end of the spectrum with hardware, mostly vintage, I believe quality of the recording, good speakers and an equalizer for me gets 90% to ultimate sound quality. And we can all argue the percentage and "ultimate" But that last 10% is very expensive.
I'm in it for the nastalgic fun, learning more about what I once enjoyed and $1000 with some skills can go a long way...
Yes, get rid of the fuses. A source of a lot of noise... maybe gold plated fuse holding clips if they are made, but I think just remove them.
My 7 crossover has the mini switch. Some same remove that...
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/
Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards
"And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
I'm buying new drivers and would like to try the 198 tweeter. What MW driver should I ask for...
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/
Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards
"And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
Got it. Thanks
The tweeter has a very small lip. I didn't want to recess the entire tweeter but I knew making a recess to fit the lip was going to take a very precise template that I do not have the ability to create.
A very nice forum member (deucekazoo) contacted me and said he could make me a template for the sl2000. He cut out a couple trials, one exactly the same size and another that was slightly larger than the lip. After a couple trials, the template that was just a bit larger worked well.
Using the router with the prescribed collar and bit, I cut a recess the same thickness as lip, 5/32" or just over 1/8" deep.
The tweeter was tight but better tight than loose. They turned out great.
So if you are in need of a templet for the SL 2000/RDO 194-1 Tweeter, drop a line to deucekazoo. I'm sure he can fix you up for a fee. I'm putting mine in my template drawer for the next pair of tweeters.
This was my first DIY speaker project. My initial concept was flawed and I want to thank all the members that guided me to a great pair of speakers. I had one forum member ask what would I do different if I did this again...
First, I will not do this project again. This was a blast but this took more weekends than I have for a pair of speakers. I have learned a great deal about how speakers function, what makes one speaker better than another, and most importantly what not to do: So let me share some mistakes I made, lessons I learned and what is next.
First, what is different in my project than the originals.
The box is made from MDF not particle board.
The front and back are 1" thickness, the sides 3/4". The originals are 3/4" all around.
My tweeters are 1" higher than the originals to give room for a horizontal brace above (and below) the drivers for stability.
The originals have a "baffle/support" that sits between the drivers and runs from the back to the front. I would say this is more for support for the weakest part of the front, but could also separate the drivers. Mine do not have this baffle because I put my crossovers in the wrong location behind the drivers. The original Crossovers are behind the PR.
I used 1/8" real wood veneer for aesthetics. The originals have a vinyl wrap.
Now for the next projects:
Though these are beautiful, I would not use wood veneer on my next pair of DIY's. Mainly because of cost and effort. I have done it once but I will use a quality textured vinyl wrap on the next pair and concentrate more on the sound than the aesthetics.
I highly recommend the purchase of new drivers and tweeters. Vintage is nice but you risk ending up with drivers at different stages of degradation. In my case, I have had to replace one MW6503 with a MW6510. It does make a difference. Though one driver did lock up on me due to mishandling, another has a dragging issue and can sound bad at higher volumes. So buy new drivers.
Don't get creative with the sound batting, you will only diminish the sound. Keep it original.
If you update the crossovers, understand there is a burn-in period. I was so disappointed when I first heard the speakers but now after 30-40 hours of playing, they are incredible.
I have also come to the conclusion that Monitor 10's are great speakers but I am looking forward to finishing the 7's. There is a definite opinion that 10's have some flaws. I have a pair of 5's and have always loved them. I compared them to my new Monitor 10's, they are respectable and with a little work, they could be just as good as the 10's
And lastly: Don't post a picture of your audio system on an audiophile forum. They will rip you a new one...
So, again, thank you all for your help. I am so very pleased with the results and these speakers are incredible! They sound better than the originals and have become the flagship of my collection. I do plan on making original grills but for now, I'm going to run them naked and free!
Will i am
Not just for the build quality, but for the fact that you were intelligent enough to
recognize that most people are here to help out; there are countless people who have less than 20 posts and are never heard from again because they get all bent out of shape.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with this build.
http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
Perfectly described. I've been following this from the start, I have nowhere near the knowledge of other members to comment. You took the guidance and constructive Critisism like a champ, without getting your panties In a knot. Those speakers are gorgeous. Hope you have some spare weekends to enjoy them.
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/
Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards
"And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
Thank you all for the comments. It's been a long but very enjoyable road.
Westmassguy, I want to especially thank you. Your advise has been concise, polite and extremely helpful. I'm now listening to studio recordings of Chopin with the Yamaha Natural Sound Receiver and just the new 10's. Oh My! I'm hooked. I'm almost through all my favorite CD'S and I can't help but grin and try to find ways to make my listen experience even better. In time...
The 7 boxes are already made just like the 10's so I will eventually have those to compare. I think they will be even better with an updated crossover, and new components.
All they lack is about 20 hours of sanding, finishing, and about $400 worth of parts. I'll post the build when I can get to the project. Maybe in the fall. I'm starting to accumulate the parts, spreading out the costs... I may want you to build my crossovers!
I still have four Dayton classic paper drivers and tweeters. I think I'm going to use those for some bookshelf speakers an give them out as gifts. That's where I'll use the vinyl.
Thanks again and I'll be around.
I'm close to getting rid of the equalizer. I'm not far from neutral on all frequencies, still adding a little bass and reducing the mids. These tweeters are awesome. I look forward to RDO-198's in the sevens.
Enjoy
H9
Pass Aleph 30 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Plus DAC | MIT Shotgun S3 | MIT Z P/C's | updated SDA 1C| SQ Box Touch/Welbourne Labs P/S- Tubes add soul!
Awesome. I hear the Blackhole 5 mod helps reduce the shouty midrange at louder volumes.
As far as the flaws with the monitor 10, don't ever take that as anything but a fact. There is a reason speakers are no longer made that way. Speaker design was still rather rudimentary in those days and we have learned much since then. Make no mistake that they and all the vintage polks are still great speakers due to the voicing and build quality. Some are still even end game type speakers for many in a world of million dollar speakers.
Speakers: Harbeth: 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Pienza, Certaldo, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S15, RTA 15tl, RTi12; Sonner Audio Allegro Unum, Legato Unum, Legato Semis, Legato Duo; Emerald Physics CS-2.8; Klipsch KLF-20
Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
Integrateds: Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: BoX, Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
Sources: AURALiC Aries, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
Cabling: Wireworld
TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
Den:
Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500
dhsspeakerservice.com/
Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards
"And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"