Polk Audio system in my boat.
Comments
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That is a very good point but I do not beleive I will have any issues. The amp
is completely exposed to airflow and it has a fan that blows down across the
rails (I had the cover off) there does not seem to be any "scheme" to the
cooling, there is no flow from what I can see. I ran the system for a couple
hours tonight anywhere from 15 to 28 volume wise and the amp barely got
luke warm. Granted I do not have the sub's in yet (class D section of the amp
which shouldn't generate a ton of heat to begin with) only the AMP1 and AMP2
side is Class A/B.
I think all will be ok. -
class d doesn't generate a ton of heat, but pushing a lot of power does, no matter the topology... just be aware that the potential for a problem exists... what i'd do is run it in the worst possible conditions (dead air, very high volume) for much longer than you'd ever run it in real life (several hours at the least), and check it often to make sure it's not overheating... if it can keep playing after this stress test, you should be fine...
the internal fan will help a lot, as will the open mounting position, but i'd still do the stress-test...It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
see my "sheety" drawing below.
mounting amps upside down does not affect their fundamental function... rather it causes them to overheat. the heatsink is bolted to the top of the unit, not the bottom... by having the heat sink on the bottom (and since heat rises), you are subjecting the board and everything on it, including the transistors you're trying to cool to excessive heat. mfg's may have overcome this to some extent because i've seen a few "roof mount" amps jobs, but they're usually in show cars, which i doubt get played very often... so i'm not sure... thats why i said call and ask...The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
PS.... if it doesn't get hot ... dont sweat it... but.. if it does...
use the same screw holes and ptu the amp in teh same place...
unbolt it... then get some long nylon bushings, or even some 3/16" stainless steel fuel line... cut int into about 5 inch long sections. you'll need 4...
then mount the amp "normal", with some 6 inch long screws, through the feet, through the 5" long bushings, and up into your under dash area.... a "suspended in mid air" amp... kinda sweet.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
drrrr...didn't even see this page...:p
nvm...George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
PBD,
It's not mounted like your drawing.. It's mounted Vertical but Upside Down
do you get my jist? It is mounted as if you would mount it to the seat back
in a sedan or other car install, but it's mounted with the logo the opposite way.
And it has heat sinks on both rails.
I really appreciate the precautionary warning and advice, I have never heard
before about mounting amps upside down and never have done it before so
I never did any research into the convection nature of the head sinks on the
FET's but I certainly see where you are comming from. With the amp mounted
truly upside down as per your illustration, heat soak would effect the PCB
and probably the toroids and capacitors too. -
Red-
That should be fine.
I would not reccomend mounting anything in a suspended manner in a boat, it is a good idea but not sturdy enough for marine use. -
HP360,
Yeah on a boat that stuff has to be bolted down fast, like nobody's buisness or
it will soon be falling on toes...
I think I have it mounted fairly well. The bulkheads that seperate the cockpit
footwell from the cabin are inch, maybe inch and a half thick Marine XL Ply
and that is what I fastened the amp to. I used coarse self taping screws. I
could "through bolt" the amp and I may if I have any problems with retention
but I would like to skip drilling through holes in the bulkheads if I can.
Now I have to make a plexiglass bezel to mount the head unit into. I am not
going to be able to use a marine enclosure, when the head unit is seated into
the enclosure where it should be, the face plate hits when it lowers down
and that is no good.
I don't think I will have any water hit the radio where it's at in the dash, it
is well under the window glass and it's recessed in the dash. It's not the ideal
way to go.... But I don't have any choice. -
ahhh... i gotcha...
well then you've got no problems kimosabi.
however, you do realize that if you turn the kicker logo around so it is "right side up", that will increase your boat's horsepower by 15. also, adding some other stickers such as "Type R" and "GTX" will make your boat go faster too.
.... i so totally want yer damn boat dude. plexi, toys, clean isntalls... you've got it goin on in a good way.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
PoweredByDodge wrote:ahhh... i gotcha...
well then you've got no problems kimosabi.
however, you do realize that if you turn the kicker logo around so it is "right side up", that will increase your boat's horsepower by 15. also, adding some other stickers such as "Type R" and "GTX" will make your boat go faster too.
.... i so totally want yer damn boat dude. plexi, toys, clean isntalls... you've got it goin on in a good way.
What kinda HP do I gain if I have a big black and yellow POLK MOMO decal
made to run down the length of the boat on each side?
Wait till you see photos, then you can tell me if it's truly a clean install. I think
it's good, but you guys may think it's just "ok" -
no, polk/MOMO is too classy to give you an HP boost, you really need the 'v-tech' stickers or some chrome to do that...
and yeah, when do we get pix?It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
True about the decals
Pix after I charge the thirty thousand batteries my farking camera takes...
It's a chore to use my camera, damn shame since it takes photos out of this
world!
You will see some this weekend I promise -
Red-
Can you mount the head unit in the cabin?
I would still be concerned with the unit in the dash without a water proof cover as it can easily get wet in a rain shower or when you are washing the boat...
I will be installing a new system in mine within the next month so an I will install the head unit in the cabin and use a remote to control it from the transom and helm.
I will be pulling it out of the shop tomorrow night to get ready for a poker run this weekend so I will take some photos. -
Your screws should be fine for your application unless you do a lot of boating in 3+ foot seas.
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HP360,
I will probably see some 3+ Foot seas in Erie but that will not constitute the
majority of my boating. I will keep after the screws and if I see any issues I
will through bolt them.
I don't want to install the head unit in the cabin, there is no "clean" way for
me to do so without major drilling, cutting etc. I have a full Bimini with filler
if it rains, washing I can cover the head unit with one of those stretchi saran
wrap thingines.. (the one's with elastic in them). ???
I dunno.... -
*thoughts*
you could just get some 1/8" thick plexi, cut it out to be a little bigger than the headunit, then cut sides for it so you have a plexi box that's like 8 inches long by wide and about 1 inch tall with no "top" on it... epoxy it all together so its clean and screw-less... then get two little hinges so it flips up so you can play with it and adjujst it and use it and put cd's in... and then put some thin foam weatherstripping around the edges of aforementioned plexi-cover and call it a day...
that's a lotta work, but it would be bother functional and pretty. --- and probably not cost you more than 10 or 15 bucks (5 to 10 bucks for el-cheapo plexi at home depot --- and 5 bucks for a good twin tube of 5 minute 2 part epoxy from an autoparts store).The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
I just got a 2006 West Marine Catalog (OMG it's HUGE!) and they have a
radio enclosure that is basically a smoked arcrylic "bubble" that I think will
work out good. When it's open there is nothing below the radio sticking out to
interfere with the opening of the dual display. It's not the best looking enclosure
but it will work. I may go that route... -
I just wanted to post a breif update.
I couldn't find a "waterproof" radio faceplate that would clear the mechanism
of the DEPP9600MP so I just fabbed up a flat plate that had the same size
and shape as the original enclosure (used it as a template) and I cut a new
flat plate out of 1/4" Smoked Lexan and I painted the back side of the Lexan
black. Turned out fantastic!
I know, I really, really need to take pics! -
How dare you post without pics.
BAN!