Polk Audio system in my boat.

Red230SX

PoweredByDodge wrote:

i hate you...

if i kill you, maybe i can pretend to be you, and take of your sweet looking garage, and your boat... and your model cars... and your wife.

yes... that is my plan.... *sharpens rusty knife*.

I don't have a wife.. Why do you think I have all these toys?

Red230SX

HiPerf360,

I have a question for ya... I assume you have the Mercathode system on your I/O's?

Do your trim ram annodes get white powder on them even when the boat is on the
trailer. Meaning, when I am in the boat with the key on playing with stuff, is the system
"Active" and that's causing the annodes to wear even when not in the water. Or do I
have a wire off or something?

Thanks in advance!

PoweredByDodge

Red230SX wrote:

I don't have a wife.. Why do you think I have all these toys?

i knew you were smart from day 1...

will you adopt me?

HiPerf360

Red230SX wrote:

HiPerf360,

I have a question for ya... I assume you have the Mercathode system on your I/O's?

Do your trim ram annodes get white powder on them even when the boat is on the
trailer. Meaning, when I am in the boat with the key on playing with stuff, is the system
"Active" and that's causing the annodes to wear even when not in the water. Or do I
have a wire off or something?

Thanks in advance!

That’s a good question,

I will have to look in to it, I think mine have that chalkiness to them as well but I don’t think it has anything to do with the key being on with the boat out of water just natural oxidation.

They have absolutely nothing to protect them from oxidation, and I don’t think electrolysis is possible out of the water, at least not measurable by us...

Just a thought but I will check this out when I get to my shop later today.

Red230SX

PBD,

No I can't adopt you, how can I afford the toys if I have a kid?



HP360,

Good point about no electrolysis going on.. It may just be a natural thing. The thing that
made me curious was that my non active system on my outboard never did this. I thought
perhaps since the Mercathode is active it was the reason.

Red230SX

Woo Hoo.. My head unit and amp will be here this weekend! I guess I need to go get
me some wood and start working on sub enclosures and then if all goes well, get the
amp and head unit mounted on sunday and hopefully, wired up and fired up!

HiPerf360

Red-

I just went out in the shop to check the anode plates...

Yes they all have a slight white chalkiness to them and the batteries and shore power are disconnected.

I think it would be safe to say it is just oxidation.

Red230SX

HiPerf360 wrote:

Red-

I just went out in the shop to check the anode plates...

Yes they all have a slight white chalkiness to them and the batteries and shore power are disconnected.

I think it would be safe to say it is just oxidation.

HP360,

I thank you! That puts my mind at ease!

Hey I have to ask, does the HP360 name refer to a Chrysler LA small block
by some chance? Or is it somehow in reference to the boat?

PoweredByDodge

maybe the boat has a chrysler sb 360...?

i miss my 360 sniffle sniffle...

Red230SX

PoweredByDodge wrote:

maybe the boat has a chrysler sb 360...?

i miss my 360 sniffle sniffle...

I miss my 452RB Wedge..... (Shoehorned in a Pro Street'd 71 Dodge Demon)
that thing was a wild ride


I was not very fond of changing spark plugs in it though... Ugh... Fender well
headders.... I learned to be a contorionist..

audiobliss

Red230SX wrote:

I miss my 452RB Wedge..... (Shoehorned in a Pro Street'd 71 Dodge Demon)
that thing was a wild ride

Sounds like it! Please tell me you took down the 1/4! How fast was it? What were the mods, what were the specs?

Red230SX

Audiobliss,

In "Street" trim 11.40@126 it had more potential but needed more gear and more stall
to work better with the way I built the motor.

Some specs..

1972 J440 block, 0.060 overbore, TRW Forged 10.5:1 Flat Tops (no valve releif) sitting
on LY Rods with a forged crank. The reciprocating assembly was weight matched and
balanced. Heads were #906 castings with 2.080 and 1.810 valves, 4 angle valve job
stainless swirl polished manley valves, competiton battleship springs, keepers and
retainers. The heads were CC'd, Smoothed, Port Matched.

Weiand TeamG Track Ram intake with a Holley 1050 CFM 3 Barrel (a very rare carb
that came of a 70 Baldwin Motion Phase III Camaro) I was offered $1500.00 for the
carb

The tranny was a TF727 with a Cheetah reverse pattern full manual valve body and a
TCI 10" 3K stall converter and a Mopar Performance short shift arm.

The rear suspension was stock leafs moved 3" per side, inboard, 5" mini tubs, Pinion
Snubber on a Mopar 8.75 SureGrip with 3.91:1 gears, Mickey T Indy ProfileSS tires
N-50-15 (14.75" wide) on Centerline 15x10 Autodrags

On the front it was Lakewood 60/10 Drag Stocks, Torsion Bars and 5" x 15" Autodrags.

The car had a fully tied tube chasis from subframe to subframe, no rollcage though. I
hadn't gotten around to that!

Motor was mounted with "Elephant Ears" (Solid motor mount plates)

audiobliss

That's a pretty sweet ride, for sure!

Though, it has got to be a dire, punishable sin, to take anything off a 1970 Baldwin Motion Phase III Camaro!! :eek: Especially something like that rare carb! But that's interesting, I had never heard of that carb before.

So, do you quinch your thirst for speed with your boat and Hemi-powered Ram? Do you ever wish you had a fast car like that? Or do you?

audiobliss

Explain yourself!

*melts* I will have one of those...one day...

And so using seran (sp?!) wrap as a lens filter gives the dark corners? That's pretty neat...

So, you collect watches?

audiobliss

Is this yours? The wheels go with it really well.

Red230SX

I also do photography... Sigma SD10 digital SLR

Yes the red stratus is mine and yes I like my rims

The drag cars were photos I took at the strip..

Yes I collect watches...

Yes I have had other fast cars..

1968 Corvette

1989 Corvette Z51

1995 Corvette

2000 Corvette Z51 6 Speed

And a few others

Red230SX

And the Saran Wrap on the lens is an "Inside" joke from the Sigma photography forums
aimed at Canon D-SLR users..

HiPerf360

Red230SX wrote:

HP360,

I thank you! That puts my mind at ease!

Hey I have to ask, does the HP360 name refer to a Chrysler LA small block
by some chance? Or is it somehow in reference to the boat?

You got it...

HiPerf360 goes way back

67 barracuda with a small block

10.31 @ 144 on a 10.5 tire (That used to be fast... LOL)

This car will actually be going back together this year with a 416ci R3 small block, have to run 8.60's-8.80's to be competitive now.

Red230SX

HiPerf360 wrote:

You got it...

HiPerf360 goes way back

67 barracuda with a small block

10.31 @ 144 on a 10.5 tire (That used to be fast... LOL)

This car will actually be going back together this year with a 416ci R3 small block, have to run 8.60's-8.80's to be competitive now.

That's still fast in my book, from an LA block!

It's awesome you are into Mopars.. I grew up with this stuff! My dad raced
for 20 years, one of the factory 50 SS/AA Hemi Barracuda SuperStock cars
"Second Time Around" 2 Time Nat Record Holder NED #1. My first word was
Hemi

That 416 sounds like it's gonna be a MEAN ****! You should have seen the
"Hemi" Dart a friend I met on the net built.. A street car..... He came down to
my house with some of the parts.. The heads were Stage IV Engineering Hemi
Conversion heads running on an Indy Max Block 500 CID the whole deal was
tuned by Ray Barton running a 30% Overdriven Hampton 18-71 and 300 horse
ported fogger setup. On the dyno at Bartons the combo made 1710 horse and
this was put into a fricken Dart!

His first pass at the strip was in the mid 8's after he lifted at half track, scared
to death. He sold the car shortly there after to get something slower (A Viper
GTS)

Darn people with money!

audiobliss

Red230SX

You have had a few fast cars! I'm beginning to see a trend with you and 'Vettes...you gonna grab a C6 Z06? An' if not...why not?!


HiPerf360

A SB pushing a '67 Barracuda to a 10.31 second 1/4? That is fast!


Red230SX

That's one sick Dart! :eek: :eek: (x infinity!) A blown 500ci block with Nitrous injection (that is what the 'fogger setup' refers to, right?)? Man, that's just...sick. 1710hp?! :eek: (x infinity...again!) Did anyone ever take it down the 1/4 without letting up on it? If so, what did it do? If not, what would it theoretically do?


Man...all this sick, sick muscle cars...who needs imports?

PoweredByDodge

my drivetrain is somewhat similar to what you described above... 727 torqueflite mated to a 3.91 chrysler corporate out back... hydraulic valve body, 2750 stall, red eagle and kolene throughout. motor can't hold a candle to yours though.

Red230SX

audiobliss wrote:

Red230SX

You have had a few fast cars! I'm beginning to see a trend with you and 'Vettes...you gonna grab a C6 Z06? An' if not...why not?!


HiPerf360

A SB pushing a '67 Barracuda to a 10.31 second 1/4? That is fast!


Red230SX

That's one sick Dart! :eek: :eek: (x infinity!) A blown 500ci block with Nitrous injection (that is what the 'fogger setup' refers to, right?)? Man, that's just...sick. 1710hp?! :eek: (x infinity...again!) Did anyone ever take it down the 1/4 without letting up on it? If so, what did it do? If not, what would it theoretically do?


Man...all this sick, sick muscle cars...who needs imports?

Audiobliss,

I enjoyed the "vette thing" but it's out of my system. I used to do car shows
every weekend and I met many, many great friends doing it. But the people
who put the events on, started to get greedy and shady and I just decided
that was it, I was done.. And the car sat in the garage most of the time and
it seemed like a big waste so when I traded the 2000 in on my Hemi Ram
that was it for me..

No C6 Z06 for me... It's a world class sports car and at 67K list it's cheap
for what you get...

But I am waiting for something that suits me better..... The Dodge Challenger!

Oh yeah


If they decide to make it for sure.. I am quite certain I will go into debt to
get an SRT-8 version

That guy's dart was insane.... But he was scared to death of the car (like I
told him he would be) I tried to tell him that the car was going to be a wild
ride and to own an 8 second car (actually that dart should have ran consistent
mid 6's) requires about $4000.00 in certification classes just to run.. You
are talking "Pro" territory and you have to hold a valid Comp license to run
a vehicle that fast.

So with a good driver his dart with 1710 horse, was capable of mid 6's as
long as the chasis and drivetrain could support it. And the chasis could.. He
went with a Chris Alston full funny car cage setup running on a full tube
chasis with a chasis works 4 link in the back and a mucho high dollar worked
over rear end (suprisingly not a Ford 9") I think he went the Dana route.

Really he spared no expense, the total build cost him about 70 thousand
dollars and 30 of that was just the engine and driveline.

Fogger systems spray an atomized mixture of fuel and air into the intake
manifold, or in his case, below and above the blower (was a dual setup).

There is nothing like seening ports in a head you can stick your fist into, all
the way up to the valve bowls.. That is NO lie.. His head flowbenched at
624 CFM through the valve, if memory serves me..

Red230SX

PoweredByDodge wrote:

my drivetrain is somewhat similar to what you described above... 727 torqueflite mated to a 3.91 chrysler corporate out back... hydraulic valve body, 2750 stall, red eagle and kolene throughout. motor can't hold a candle to yours though.

PBD,

sounds like a stout setup.. You would like my buddy Fred's ram.. It's an 01 or
02 I think (before the newest body style) 360 4x4 he just got done putting
a 6" suspension lift on (skyjacker I think) and he put new rims and big tires
on it. It's metallic blue/silver two tone and he put bushwacker flares on, painted
silver to match the bottom of the truck. He bought a Powerdyne blower setup
off ebay he's going to install this summer it's supposed to be good for 150
extra horsies.

I just hope his stock tranny can handle it

Red230SX

Ok Gang here's the latest!

My Pioneer DEHP9600MP Head unit, Kicker 700.5 amp and other goodies came on Friday. I may start the install
this weekend. I need to carefully sit back and survey the area and make sure it's the most logical layout
before I start mounting things.

Basically here's the lowdown on the amp and it's wiring.. The amp spec'd out on the test bench at 940 Watts
RMS with all channels driven bridged (4 ohm x 4 channels and 2 Ohm by 1 Channel) I will run the 4 channels at
8 Ohm and run 2 Ohm on the sub channel. I figure a 60 Amp fuse will be sufficient, the amp it's self has three
30Amp fuses on the side pannel. Should I step up and go with an 80 amp fuse? Since I will not be running all
channels driver I don't think I will ever see a 90 amp load.

I ordered 30' of positive and 30' of negative cable both are 4Awg Mobile Spec Ice. I will come off a Northern
Marine 1150CCA Deep Cycle Battery into a Mobile Spec digital ANL fuse block, out of the fuse block into a
Mobile Spec Hex Series digital top 1.5 Farad Capacitor and then out of the Capacitor and run all the way up to
the amp.

Since this is on a boat I can't just run the RCA's to the amp anywhere I choose I have to run them down the
gunnel of the boat and I can not run them on an oppisite side of the boat because there is no way for me to
cross over from one side to another so that I can tie back into the amp. What I was thinking is if I braid the
Positive and Negative cables together to introduce a Common Noise Mode Rejection I shouldn't have to worry as
much about the signal lines picking anything up. I will of course keep the signal lines as far away from the
power wires as possible. Do you think doing the braid trick will be beneficial or a waste of time? Just for the record both the positive and negative cables will be connected directly to the battery.

I most likely won't be using 30' runs, I ordered 30'of each just to avoid the "Oh ****" factor, as in, "Oh ****
I am 2' short on wire" I will probably need about 20' of wire for each run.

I could possibly mount the amp in my ski locker which would require maybe 5' runs for power and ground but then
I would need a 20' RCA cable set, perhaps longer. The other way Ya know what? Nevermind.. Just had an ephihany!

I will only be running power and ground wires up the gunnel not signal cables. If I mount the amp under the
dash or inside the cabin I will be running short RCA cable sets straight from the head unit to the amp and the
lengths will be very short (maybe 2'). Under the dash looks like that's going to be the best place! Assuming
it will even fit! I didn't realize how big this sun of a gun was going to be!

Down to the garage to take measurements Saturday Morning when I get home from work. If all goes well maybe I
will get the system installed this weekend!

PoweredByDodge

you've got 8 ohm speakers?? odd... but ok...

60 amp fuse is a good choice... i wouldn't go higher than that considering what you've said you'll be running. at the full 940 you'd be at about 65 amps... so i'd say 70 (well 80 cuz nobody makes a 70) for a fuse, but if you are only running 8 ohm speakers on the highs, then 60 will be fine.

i do not know if there is a positive effect by braiding DC power wire. i honesly have no idea.

at 40 feet total (20 + 20), you're going to lose about 12% of your voltage which is kinda **** -- it'll be about 1.7 volt drop from 14.4 ... but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

that's at 60 amps though.... at 30 amps you'll only lose 0.8 volts, which is much more acceptable.

good luck with the install dude

neomagus00

i can see how it would help, theoretically, but if you're getting power-cable interference badly enough to annoy you, braiding probably wouldn't help at all... luckily enough, it's a moot point...

Red230SX

PBD,

Did I say 8ohm? What the hell was I talking about.... (working midnight shift...)

They are 4 ohm but what I meant to say is that I am not running them in bridge
mode. This amp can support bridging on all channels but is only stable at 4Ohm
if all four main channels (AMP1 AMP2) are bridged. I am running straight 4
ohm on all four channels so I should be getting 75 WPC x 4 Channels @ 4Ohm
Nominal.

I have the wires run and I have the amp mounted and the speakers are wired
to the amp. I have the head unit in, all the wires are soldered and heat shrunk
and wrapped. I have what looks to be about 7' of extra wire in the engine
compartment. I haven't cut the wire yet so I have not measured my excess
but needless to say it will come up about 25' maybe less of a run.

At any rate, I wired the amp up to my Jumpit battery pack to test the head
unit amp and the Momo's OHHHH MY GOD........ I haven't even run AutoTA
or AutoEQ yet and set FLAT this son of a **** sounds GOOD! I was listening
to some 80's CD's and some of the instrumental stuff, the Sax was just
jumping out of the music... So clear!

I will try and get photos today if I can. I need to go get a couple ANL fuses
and some 4 Awg Ring Terminals and something to reduce the 4 Awg down
so I can fasten the Power and Ground to the amp, it doesn't accept straight
4 Awg damnit!

I installed the 700.5 upside down under the dash, I can't use the shroud
which does make me mad, I wish I could have installed it upright with the
shroud on. The way it works out I have the shortest runs of wires, the shortest
signal cables this way and everything "lines up" and goes right where it needs
to go.

Worked out great!

PoweredByDodge

Red230SX wrote:

I installed the 700.5 upside down under the dash,

you had best call kicker and talk to a tech guy who knows his **** (not just the general customer service girl that answers the phone)... most amplifiers cannot be mounted upside down... they burn up. some can, but it's still not the most adviseable way of doing it... things may have changed in teh last few years though... tech has come such a long way and i've not exactly kept myself up to date --- so call them or look at the manual very thoroughly about it.

Red230SX

PoweredByDodge wrote:

you had best call kicker and talk to a tech guy who knows his **** (not just the general customer service girl that answers the phone)... most amplifiers cannot be mounted upside down... they burn up. some can, but it's still not the most adviseable way of doing it... things may have changed in teh last few years though... tech has come such a long way and i've not exactly kept myself up to date --- so call them or look at the manual very thoroughly about it.

I don't mean upside down as in the backside of the amp is facing out, I mean
the amp is upside down as in, the Kicker logo on the top of the amp is upside
down.. Explain to me what difference this would make? Gravity should have no
effect over the flow of electrons in either orientation

The manual says absolutely nothing about mounting it, other than to say make
sure it's fastened good and has adequate ventilation which it has both in
liberal amounts.

neomagus00

electrons, fine, heat, very bad... the problem is that amps are designed to radiate heat upwards, and forcing the heat to rise back through the whole amp could cook it, which is bad...