Dead tweeters on one month old R700's
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No worries. I remember the JBL's too, my brother had a pair. Give the R700's time, they really do start to open up over time, especially when you give them the juice. The ring tweeters are excellent.
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So what ever happened here? I didn't see the replacement tweeter replies or did I miss something?
?Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
To clarify my original post back in May, I eventually received replacement tweeters from Polk. Service was quick and painless...I have not had any issues since.
Happy listening
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No worries. I remember the JBL's too, my brother had a pair. Give the R700's time, they really do start to open up over time, especially when you give them the juice. The ring tweeters are excellent.
I've been listening to the L700's since early spring when they were nearly impossible to get. I actually had to by them each separately from 2 different sources! eBay and Amazon. The pricing was the same for both thankfully, I wasn't paying a mark up.
So I've had time to listen to them. And maybe it was because the one tweeter was starting to fail that I wasn't too impressed. Not knowing the issue at the time and other things coming up, I wasn't listening much until yesterday when I was doing room correction that the one channel showed no upper range. I heard it but I thought it was just because of room acoustics. (I have a couch to the right side of the speaker that sucks all the higher ranges, hence the room correction) Anyways, low and behold the tweeter was completely dead. I did a little research, came here and that's where we stand. I'll post more after I installed the new tweeter and give an update. Hopefully Polk customer service will get back to me tomorrow and I'll be off to the races. -
I'm happy to report that my L700's are sounding very well indeed. After replacing the blown tweeter and redoing a full room correction using (ARC), Anthem Room Correction, the sound is much better now. I will be keeping the JBL's off to the side for the time being. I'm able to comfortably play at about 85 - 90 DB sound pressure levels without any distortion. Playing louder than that and it gets stressed. I'm using an old Adcom GFA-555II power amp that has plenty of reserves running through a Anthem MRX 740 multi-channel receiver. I also am set up with a 5.1.2 system with Dolby enabled speakers. I'm currently happy and content, for now. Thank you for all the helpful feed-back.
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That's awesome glad you are enjoying the speakers. Just curious when if you have had or done a refresh on that Adcom? It is a 25yo amp. At the least have it tested.
2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
I was listening at high volume and my wife says Joe there's smoke coming out of your speaker.
It was the tweeters in my lsi-25s. -
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
txcoastal1 wrote: »That's awesome glad you are enjoying the speakers. Just curious when if you have had or done a refresh on that Adcom? It is a 25yo amp. At the least have it tested.
I went and changed out the amp. I picked up a used Parasound Halo A 21+ amp. OH MY GOSH! What a difference. Totally cleaned up the sound. Even at low volumes it is much fuller with all the details intact. I'm now pushing 100+ SPL. I don't need to go any higher, but there was plenty of room still to go. Maybe when I need a good beating I'll try to see where it maxes out.
It is just so much better sounding with clean effortless power. The Adcom did well, but this is a whole different league. -
^ Yes, higher power grunt, available current, makes a big difference even at lower volumes.
It really starts to shine at higher volumes.
Bi-amping with the right amps adds another oooompf to effortless that sound.
Enjoy your new amp and new found sound. -
skipshot12 wrote: »^ Yes, higher power grunt, available current, makes a big difference even at lower volumes.
It really starts to shine at higher volumes.
Bi-amping with the right amps adds another oooompf to effortless that sound.
Enjoy your new amp and new found sound.
Hi, I want to bi-amp my R700 and I'm asking if I need different amp powers for the highs and lows.
Thank you for helping. -
Highest quality 2 channel amplifier will out run biamping every single time.
Biamping without an active crossover before the amplifiers is fruitless plus over complicates everything- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
skipshot12 wrote: »^ Yes, higher power grunt, available current, makes a big difference even at lower volumes.
It really starts to shine at higher volumes.
Bi-amping with the right amps adds another oooompf to effortless that sound.
Enjoy your new amp and new found sound.
Hi, I want to bi-amp my R700 and I'm asking if I need different amp powers for the highs and lows.
Thank you for helping.
That's a hole you do not want to go down and as mentioned, without the use of active crossovers it is pointless.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Highest quality 2 channel amplifier will out run biamping every single time.
Biamping without an active crossover before the amplifiers is fruitless plus over complicates everythingskipshot12 wrote: »^ Yes, higher power grunt, available current, makes a big difference even at lower volumes.
It really starts to shine at higher volumes.
Bi-amping with the right amps adds another oooompf to effortless that sound.
Enjoy your new amp and new found sound.
Hi, I want to bi-amp my R700 and I'm asking if I need different amp powers for the highs and lows.
Thank you for helping.
That's a hole you do not want to go down and as mentioned, without the use of active crossovers it is pointless.
Many thx for replying. How is active crossover done right?
Maybe then I go with a Hypex nCore Stereo Amp + one good PreAmp I don’t know yet.
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Highest quality 2 channel amplifier will out run biamping every single time.
Biamping without an active crossover before the amplifiers is fruitless plus over complicates everything
Maybe this is good for active crossover
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-flex-eight
it also brings Dirac with it. -
Highest quality 2 channel amplifier will out run biamping every single time.
Biamping without an active crossover before the amplifiers is fruitless plus over complicates everythingskipshot12 wrote: »^ Yes, higher power grunt, available current, makes a big difference even at lower volumes.
It really starts to shine at higher volumes.
Bi-amping with the right amps adds another oooompf to effortless that sound.
Enjoy your new amp and new found sound.
Hi, I want to bi-amp my R700 and I'm asking if I need different amp powers for the highs and lows.
Thank you for helping.
That's a hole you do not want to go down and as mentioned, without the use of active crossovers it is pointless.
Many thx for replying. How is active crossover done right?
Maybe then I go with a Hypex nCore Stereo Amp + one good PreAmp I don’t know yet.
Recommend you re-read the responses already given.
Would avoid Class D and not be concerned with bi-amping.CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables. -
All right. I’ll do researcheres first.
But please, just to let me know, way would you avoid Class-D amps.
Thx. -
Many thx for replying. How is active crossover done right?
Maybe then I go with a Hypex nCore Stereo Amp + one good PreAmp I don’t know yet.
Maybe this is good for active crossover
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-flex-eight
it also brings Dirac with it.
Here's a question.... or two.
1) Would it make sense to spend more money on 4 channels of amplification + active crossover, interconnects, speaker wire to bi-amp the R700 or sell and get the L600 powered by a single 2-ch amp?
2) Would it make sense to bi-amp the R700 or put extra money towards treating the room, OR better front end gear, and/or better 2 ch amp?
Bottom line, do the best that you can with placement and room acoustics. Get nice speakers and get a high current 2-ch amp to power them with. This works for most.
Adding room correction to the mix is not a bad thing to consider if the space has challenges. This might be a more worthwhile rewarding endeavor over buying 4 channels of amplification and running an active system.
Maybe an all-one-one integrated will work for you???? like the Lyngdorf, Anthem, NAD, Arcam, etc. with built-in streaming, room correction, and class D amplification?
Again more questions:
What are the problems?
Whats lacking in the system?
What gains are you seeking?
In the end, who knows how much of a difference these options will make. Find the right balance!
Therefore, if you want to go down the active crossover rabbit hole and play around with the different Class-D Hypex, Purifi, IcePower, etc. topologies or even run the low end with class D, the upper with class A/B, active room correction, etc. Go right ahead and experiment to deal with your own curiosities. Its your money, time, space, and system.
Do your research
Do understand that there are pros and cons to class A, B, AB, C, D, G, H, tube, etc. amplifiers.
Do experiment over time
Do report back YOUR findings!
2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
All right. I’ll do researcheres first.
But please, just to let me know, way would you avoid Class-D amps.
Thx.
Not a fan of switching. Some people like class D just fine. I’m not one of them.
To me, those are designed for cost savings, not sonics.CD Players: Sony CDP-211; Sony DVP-S9000ES; Sony UDP-X800M2 (x2); Cambridge Audio CXC
DACs: Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC III (x2); Denafrips Ares II (x2)
Streamers: ROKU (x3); Bluesound Node 2i and Node N130 w/LHY LPS // Receivers: Yamaha RX-V775BT; Yamaha RX-V777
Preamps: B&K Ref 50; B&K Ref 5 S2; Classe CP-800 MkII; Audio Research SP16L (soon)
Amps: Niles SI-275; B&K ST125.7; B&K ST125.2; Classe CA-2300; Butler Audio TDB-5150
Speakers: Boston Acoustics CR55; Focal Chorus 705v; Wharfedale Diamond 10.2; Monitor Audio Silver-1; Def Tech Mythos One (x4)/Mythos Three Center (x2)/Mythos Two pr.; Martin Logan Electromotion ESL; Legacy Audio Victoria/Silverscreen Center; Gallo Acoustics Reference 3.1; SVS SB-1000 Pro; REL HT-1003; B&W ASW610; HifiMan HE400i
Turntable: Dual 721 Direct-Drive w/Audio Technica AT-VM95e cart
Cables: Tripp-lite 14ga. PCs, Blue Jeans Cable ICs, Philips PXT1000 ICs; Kimber Kable DV30 coaxial ICs; Canare L-4E6S XLR ICs; Kimber Kable 8PR & 8TC speaker cables. -
They're the (near) future -- at least for multichannel.
https://www.mcintoshlabs.com/products/amplifiers/MI254
Hypex Ncore amps in this Mac; i.e., at least they used good ones.
https://www.mcintoshlabs.com/products/home-theater-processors/MHT300
(I don't think "we" know, yet, whose Class D boards Mac is usin' in this "coming soon" $8k HT receiver)
Class D amps are definitely getting better, though. I think they sound OK based on my limited (and low-end) experience.
I'm not crazy about them, either, in full disclosure -- nor switchmode power supplies. Both are electrically efficient, but they generate gobs of RFI ("hash") that has to be dealt with in their environment. And people will still use them to power phenomenally electrically inefficient loudspeakers*, so it's kind of a pyrrhic victory when it's all said and done.
_________
* A loudspeaker with sensitivity in the low 80s (dB of SPL at 1 meter for 1 watt electrical input) typically has an efficiency (measured as acoustic power output in watts per watt of electrical power input) of 1 or 2 percent. The other 98 or 99 percent is p!$$ed away as heat.
So much for using a 90% efficient Class D amp instead of a 40% efficient Class AB amp! 
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Class D works well for HT, for music not so much.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
