1000 VA Dreadnought

24

Comments

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    ccevzui0ywuj.jpg
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    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Must be for Faraday cage effect. Looks great.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,289
    VR3 wrote: »
    I lined ptroopers enclosure in copper foil as per his request

    But did you put the whole thing in a Faraday cage? You know to block 5G warfare?
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • Sitka
    Sitka Posts: 74
    Thanks guys - FYI, coming soon I'll be posting results of my head to head apples to apples comparison of SDA 2B vs RTA 12B. The 2B is in burn-in, and to be fair it needs a Dreadnought.

    Thanks westmassguy for the excellent pics, although it's unclear if the 8 zip ties are part of the hold-down for the coil, or if the bolt somehow holds it in place. It is clear that I should not use the included steel plate or steel bolt. Pics to come when I get my aluminum box.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,412
    Most of used stainless steel hardware to hold the torrid to the enclosure. I do not think Dave's zip ties are holding the torrid to the enclosure. I thought I remember @westmassguy (Dave) using copper foil on the enclosure.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    The enclosure is cast aluminum, good for RF shielding. I applied 2 coats etching primer and two top coats on the interior, then full copper foil for EMI shielding, followed by the Dynamat. The Toroid is mounted to a 1/2" MDF disk using either 80 or 120 lb wire ties. A single Stainless 1/4-20 through bolt holds the assembly to the back wall, and is also glued down.

    8simo57hlz93.jpg
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    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Ok. Thanks for those pics. I was thinking a 1/4" alloy disk like that on top with a sheet of neoprene in between and non-ferrous stainless bolt.

    Will be ringing Avel this week.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    While waiting on reply from sales@avellindberg.com, positing a question before I forget. Looked everywhere and can't find a definitive schematic for dreadnought, but from the replies figured how to wire to PIN/BLADE when time comes.

    The real question is if the Dreadnaught is still wired the same for the dual-board BLADE/BLADE models?

    I will always be on the lookout for a set of Blade/Blade SDA 1A's to mod if they ever appear locally.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Sitka
    Sitka Posts: 74
    Thanks @westmassguy - that really helps! Pics to come when this comes together.
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    xschop wrote: »
    The real question is if the Dreadnaught is still wired the same for the dual-board BLADE/BLADE models?

    I will always be on the lookout for a set of Blade/Blade SDA 1A's to mod if they ever appear locally.
    SDA 1, SDA 1 Signature, SDA 1A, SDA 1B CANNOT USE AN ISOLATION TRANSFORMER in the SDA cable.

    That is, I put an isolation transformer into the cable on my 1Bs, after reworking the internal circuitry to make that possible...but it sounded bad. For all practical purposes, it can't be done.

    The only blade/blade speakers that can use the isolation transformer are the few SDA 2B and 1C that were equipped with blade/blade sockets. Polk has a serial-number list of those speakers. The internal circuitry is compatible, but they're missing a foot of wire and the correct pin-blade sockets.

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,412
    edited January 29
    SDA 1, SDA 1 Signature, SDA 1A, SDA 1B CANNOT USE AN ISOLATION TRANSFORMER in the SDA cable.

    I'll also add the two tweeter dual blade socket CRS and MAYBE the first CRS+ if it has the two XO boards.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Hmmm. Very interesting and thank you for expounding. I don't recall seeing that info here. So I'll just wire this up with Neutriks then, and just machine 2 spots on the case. I will have to drop in CRS+ crossovers and experiment on the 1A's. 2ea 6502's in series for the stereo drivers and 2ea 6503's in parallel for the SDA circuits. B)
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,412
    edited January 29
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    SDA 1, SDA 1 Signature, SDA 1A, SDA 1B CANNOT USE AN ISOLATION TRANSFORMER in the SDA cable.

    I'll also add the two tweeter dual blade socket CRS and MAYBE the first CRS+ if it has the two XO boards.
    He was specifically asking about SDA 1-series speakers.

    The SDA SRS 2 blade/blade (electrically almost identical to SDA 1B) is not compatible. Essentially any generation of speakers older than SDA 1C, 2B, SRS 1.2, (and I have never learned the chronology of the CRS units) is not compatible with an isolation transformer.

    Only the models that (when not using an isolation transformer) use a single powered conductor in the SDA cable to connect the SDA circuit on the two cabinets are compatible with an isolation transformer.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited January 29
    TB1 plug adapter?
    The large copper donut is now inbound. :)
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,412
    edited January 29
    xschop wrote: »
    TB1 plug adapter?

    Plug adapter is for those speakers that came with the B/b socket that were wired like the Pin/blade socket. That is why the serial numbers were also included. it is a Blade/blade plug that plugs into the speaker then the Pin/blade AI-1 plugs into the end of the adapter.



  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    edited January 29
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    xschop wrote: »
    TB1 plug adapter?

    Plug adapter is for those speakers that came with the B/b socket that were wired like the Pin/blade socket. That is why the serial numbers were also included. it is a Blade/blade plug that plugs into the speaker then the Pin/blade AI-1 plugs into the end of the adapter.
    I'm thinking that there is also 8 inches or a foot of wire that goes from one side of the original blade/blade socket, to the negative speaker binding post on those speakers that need the plug adapter. A length of wire needed for each speaker cabinet, so two short pieces of wire, perhaps Polk supplied the appropriate ends on the wire for easy connection.

    I don't know why Polk installed the "wrong" SDA sockets on some SDA-1C and 2B speakers. The best guess I've heard is that they had a bunch of those "obsolete" blade/blade sockets left over from the previous generation of speakers, and figured that it was cheaper to use 'em up, if purchasers complained about not being able to put an isolation transformer in the SDA cable, they could send out a relatively small number of upgrade kits to the few customers that cared. But I've never heard that "officially".
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,221
    edited January 29
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    edited January 29
    THANK YOU for that. VERY much appreciated.

    I knew there was a wire going to the negative speaker terminal in there somewhere. I thought it would be inside the cabinet instead of outside. Silly me.

    What's funny--or evidence of my senility--is that I've seen those photos before, and even commented in the other thread. I remind me more of my Dear Old Dad as time goes by.
  • Just got my 800 today. Still waiting on the box and other parts. Is heat a concern with these? I bought a plastic electronics enclosure and also got a vent I can cut in. Wasn't sure if these produce alot of heat.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,221
    70hemicuda wrote: »
    Just got my 800 today. Still waiting on the box and other parts. Is heat a concern with these? I bought a plastic electronics enclosure and also got a vent I can cut in. Wasn't sure if these produce alot of heat.

    They produce no heat, and trade in your plastic enclosure for an aluminum one..
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,496
    70hemicuda wrote: »
    Just got my 800 today. Still waiting on the box and other parts. Is heat a concern with these? I bought a plastic electronics enclosure and also got a vent I can cut in. Wasn't sure if these produce alot of heat.

    No vents required.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Toolfan66 wrote: »
    70hemicuda wrote: »
    Just got my 800 today. Still waiting on the box and other parts. Is heat a concern with these? I bought a plastic electronics enclosure and also got a vent I can cut in. Wasn't sure if these produce alot of heat.

    They produce no heat, and trade in your plastic enclosure for an aluminum one..

    This enclosure was $20 on amazon, going to use it for version 1. The plan is to make a really nice aluminum and wood one to match the speakers.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    100% sealed aluminum at least 1/4" thick should block any errant RFI.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    During the time the transformer will be in the plastic box, wrap it in several layers of aluminum foil as shielding from electromagnetic interference.

    Naturally, you'd not allow the aluminum to touch any of the conductors.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,412
    70hemicuda wrote: »
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    70hemicuda wrote: »
    Just got my 800 today. Still waiting on the box and other parts. Is heat a concern with these? I bought a plastic electronics enclosure and also got a vent I can cut in. Wasn't sure if these produce alot of heat.

    They produce no heat, and trade in your plastic enclosure for an aluminum one..

    This enclosure was $20 on amazon, going to use it for version 1. The plan is to make a really nice aluminum and wood one to match the speakers.
    There was a company that made an aluminum enclosure for just a few dollars more. It fit the 800va torrid very well and clamped it in place, its still a good idea to bolt it to the box.

  • gyosa
    gyosa Posts: 748
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
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    Any interest in selling it ?

    Bk

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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,221
    edited January 30

    gyosa wrote: »
    Toolfan66 wrote: »


    Any interest in selling it ?

    Bk

    No B)