I ended up with 2 left SDA SRS 2.3's from craigslist, now what?

24

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,906
    edited September 1
    The cabinets are a monocoque construction. IIRC, the joints interlock, so I don't know one could remove the baffle without destroying the cabinet.

    There's no way they will sound right with the SDA cable in use as is. One thing you could try is swapping the stereo and SDA drivers along with their wires in what would become the right channel. In the 2.3 the SDA drivers are the two in the middle of the row of four. The top and bottom donut drivers are frequency restricted (sub bass) stereo drivers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,379
    I think if you drill the two holes with a hole saw then use those pieces and the sawdust mixed with wood glue as filler or even an epoxy to reglue it in the holes that would work. Use a greased piece of cardboard or something taped to the inside for backing so your filler piece sits flush.
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    B&K Reference 50 Pre/Pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    Wow this looks like some work, also is there an easy way to check if my amp is a common ground amp? and is it safe to hook these to any amp without the SDA interconnect hooking then 2 speakers together? I just picked these up today and I'm dying to try them out....Great forum and awesome people on here. Nice job and many thanks everyone!
  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    Sorry about all the questions I'm new to Polk and just learning.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,379
    With the amp off and unplugged, put an ohm meter between the two negative speaker terminals. What amp are you running?
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    B&K Reference 50 Pre/Pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 21,457
    Maybe post some pics so we can help you on your path.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Diamond v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds.

    Saying that it's "too hard" to pursue your dreams is no different than admitting to yourself that you are too lazy to achieve them.

    “If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    I have an old Mcintosh MC2100 and a Perreaux 2150B but I am selling the 2150B to fund these two left speakers.... What happens when I put the ohm meter between the two negative speaker terminals to tell me its common ground? I will be sure to turn off and unplug.
  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    I think it's best to just swap the stereo and SDA drivers along with their wires and make a right speaker from a left. Thank you again for all the help, I'm starting to feel better with all the support from this site. These speakers are so good looking and if I start cutting I'm afraid I may never get the front finish to look right.
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 3,720
    John312 wrote: »
    I think it's best to just swap the stereo and SDA drivers along with their wires and make a right speaker from a left. Thank you again for all the help, I'm starting to feel better with all the support from this site. These speakers are so good looking and if I start cutting I'm afraid I may never get the front finish to look right.

    If a pro does the work it might not end up looking right. If a novice does the work it will end up looking horrible.
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 3,720
    Why are the serial numbers blacked out?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,906
    Those are 2.3TL's. Forget the swapping info I posted earlier as that will not work with your speakers.

    If you part them out I'll take both PR's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    not blacked our, its silver foil and that must be a shadow or something
  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    numbers are clear and easy to read, stickers on the back are in great shape
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 3,720
    Were you able to demo the speakers prior to purchase?
    If so how did the seller have them hooked up?

    They are in very nice condition, too good to part out. Ultimately it's up to you if your wallet will allow for you to try and remedy the situation.
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 3,720
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sell me the passives

    The passives don't come up for sale too often and these are in very good condition.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,609
    F1nut wrote: »
    Those are 2.3TL's. Forget the swapping info I posted earlier as that will not work with your speakers.

    If you part them out I'll take both PR's.

    Hmm maybe someone has already mentioned that.
  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    Crap, I'm confused sorry did not know these are 2.3TL's, thank you. Any ideas? I am willing to modify them and pay a pro to cut and paste.
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 3,720
    John312 wrote: »
    Crap, I'm confused sorry did not know these are 2.3TL's, thank you. Any ideas? I am willing to modify them and pay a pro to cut and paste.

    Yes, in deed they are 2.3TL's. Some would argue that this model, not the 1.2TL's, are the pinnacle of Polk Audio.
  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    That's good I guess I got the good left ones, how the heck can I mod these guy safe? does anyone know if the internals are the same and I can just move 2 drivers and plug 2 holes? And them will it be safe to use the interconnect?
  • verbverb Posts: 7,943
    edited September 1
    Hey @John312 first of all welcome to CP! I may say, you sure made a splash for sure! I feel your pain, as they do look minty.

    As Jesse @F1nut said if these indeed are monocoque construction, that will be much more difficult job to modify. I abandoned the idea of trying to upgrade my SRS's gen 1 to a monocoque cabinet. Details on the insides of your cabinet are sketchy, AFAIK there is little documentation out there.

    You can take the driver's out (which you'll have to do anyway) and take a look! From there you'll get an idea if it is even possible to modify the cabinet.

    How are your woodworking skills?

    Let us know, and good luck!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    I was going to pay a pro to modify the cabinets, but I really need to know if the internals ate identical and all I need to do is move a few drivers. I am worried that these is some fancy wizardry going on inside that's above my home brew Macgyver skills... They actually sound decent, but I really want the whole experience.
  • John312John312 Posts: 31
    Hoping I can just move two drivers from the right to left and plug two holes....but that sounds too good to be true?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,906
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Those are 2.3TL's. Forget the swapping info I posted earlier as that will not work with your speakers.

    If you part them out I'll take both PR's.

    Hmm maybe someone has already mentioned that.

    Sorry Ivan, yours if he parts out.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,906
    John312 wrote: »
    I was going to pay a pro to modify the cabinets, but I really need to know if the internals ate identical and all I need to do is move a few drivers. I am worried that these is some fancy wizardry going on inside that's above my home brew Macgyver skills... They actually sound decent, but I really want the whole experience.

    You want a mirror image of the left speaker, drivers and wiring..
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • verbverb Posts: 7,943
    John312 wrote: »
    I was going to pay a pro to modify the cabinets, but I really need to know if the internals ate identical and all I need to do is move a few drivers. I am worried that these is some fancy wizardry going on inside that's above my home brew Macgyver skills... They actually sound decent, but I really want the whole experience.

    Without drawings, the only way is to open the hood! :)
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 3,734
    @westmassguy could step in here and explain the crossover details and whyit can't or how it might work... 2 holes won't be difficult, especially if you use a textured wrap on the baffles after removing the original.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,379
    edited September 1
    @John312 check your messages. All six drivers are the same in the TL series so swapping drivers is not necessary. Simply swap the wiring between the two center drivers on one speaker. Then see how it sounds. As for your Mac it appears it's common ground but I would double check with an ohm meter anyways just to check. If it's common the meter will peg out (same as if you put the two test wires together).
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    B&K Reference 50 Pre/Pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,906
    FestYboy wrote: »
    @westmassguy could step in here and explain the crossover details and whyit can't or how it might work... 2 holes won't be difficult, especially if you use a textured wrap on the baffles after removing the original.

    The crossovers are exactly the same. The drivers and wiring are mirror images.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • EmlynEmlyn Posts: 2,497
    Apart from swapping drivers in what would become the right channel speaker, a possible simple fix instead of trying to patch large holes in mdf could be to cut two new holes in each cabinet and purchase and place dummy midwoofer drivers in them that are not hooked up. Won't be as perfect as they were originally made, but it could be a fairly simple DIY job with a hole saw and a compact router. They would be symmetrical, which is really important with these speakers. And they would be unique!

    That's assuming the current drivers and crossovers are all in proper working order. My guess is they may not be since the two right channel speakers disappeared somewhere.

    First step would be to open up the speakers by removing all the drivers to see what things look like inside. Forum members can provide lots of advice from photos.
    1. Polk LSiM707, 704C, 703; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A23 amp; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Sonic Frontiers Line 3 Preamp; Classe Model 25 amp; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Oppo 105D; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio Power Director; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Parasound JC2BP and A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; MIT S3 cables
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!