What amp should i run help please...
So back in the day i built my parents a home theatre set up. They never use the home theatre set up. So i have it now.
So for the amp i have is a Harman/Kardon AVR 630. I know this is under powering my set up. So what i have for speakers are:
FRONT TOWERS:
Polk Audio RTI12
CENTRE SPEAKER:
Polk Audio CSI5
REAR SPEAKERS:
Polk Audio RTI6
SUBWOOFER:
Velodyne CHT 12
So i have been trying to figure out how to get the max power out of these speakers. I have been look at power amp to hook up to the amp i all ready have or just a new amp. I will be using the set up for music and to watch movies. I want to get the max power i can with out blowing the bank account. So i’m looking to spend up to 2k ish.
Thank for the help.
So for the amp i have is a Harman/Kardon AVR 630. I know this is under powering my set up. So what i have for speakers are:
FRONT TOWERS:
Polk Audio RTI12
CENTRE SPEAKER:
Polk Audio CSI5
REAR SPEAKERS:
Polk Audio RTI6
SUBWOOFER:
Velodyne CHT 12
So i have been trying to figure out how to get the max power out of these speakers. I have been look at power amp to hook up to the amp i all ready have or just a new amp. I will be using the set up for music and to watch movies. I want to get the max power i can with out blowing the bank account. So i’m looking to spend up to 2k ish.
Thank for the help.
Best Answers
-
AVR
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/marsr6012/marantz-sr6012-9.2-ch-x-110-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html
or
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx3500h/denon-avr-x3500h-7.2-ch-x-105-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html
AMP
https://emotiva.com/collections/amps/products/xpa-5-gen3
OR
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15593When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
You're thinking about it too hard, and incorrectly. The rti 12s are power hungry, yes, but as @F1nut stated before, it's more about the amp's ability to deliver current than it is the rated watts output. Given that the RTIs are fairly efficient, you will reach concert level volume rather easily. The issue is: at that level, what percentage is distortion?
So, when looking at an amp's specs, don't focus on the total output, look at it's output in relationship to the load (8 ohm, 4 ohm, etc). Then, at it's rated output, pay attention to it's THD value (the lower the better).
As for watching movies, look into getting a receiver that has pre outs, pure or direct mode, and has Atmos, if it has those 3 things, the rest of the goodies usually come along with so that you can upgrade later.
*Edit: think of an amp this way: watts are like horsepower, everyone gets excited about a number that means jack. Torque does the work and it's what you feel. So it is with current. -
PolkAudioJoJo wrote: »
Better a tool than fool. I’m still waiting for an answer from F1nutPolkAudioJoJo wrote: »“Warmer sounding amplifier” -
. Could you please elaborate? Engineers wince whenever it is suggested that an amplifier has a "signature sound" because it suggests coloration, which is directly antithetical to everything Hi-Fi has stood for since the very beginning.
To suggest that one sounds different from the other means that one or the other is coloring the signal (or even both). The guiding principle of any brand has always been firmly grounded in NO coloration. Coloration is measured as DISTORTION. When an amplifier is spec @ x watts 20-20,000 hz with no more than y% THD, it either performs to that spec or it does not. Pure and simple. If one performs and sounds different than another, either it’s out of spec and needs service or they’re LYING about their performance specs!
If you don’t like the sound, add acoustic dampening on your walls, get an equalizer, or change your speakers.
You should change your username to "Fear Inoculum" because you are the new TOOL.
They are one and the same, so there's your answer.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Get a 1 or 2 year old Marantz or Denon AVR (it won’t have Atmos, but it will have more HDMI inputs than you can shake a stick at, and almost all the latest processing up-to and including 7.1, and make sure it has 7.1 pre outs). then get a solid 2-3 channel amp, like a B&K or Rotel or even Adcom. Then use your AVR to run your surrounds and possibly your center, and your amp for you fronts and center if 3ch.
From there, upgrade at will."Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
Simple,
got to A4L and get a Marantz SR6012
The either get a Monolith 5 or Emotiva XPA5 get some good interconnects (RCA) cables speaker cables and be done.
You can save more by going the 3 channel amp like I run and let the AVR power the surrounds. Works good for me.When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
All speakers don’t sound the same i know this. But when it comes to avr or amps they all sound different ?
YesPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
mahrdy6647 did i hurt your feeling by saying sound cult ?
Not at all
I am heavily vested in the cult of the arcane. I thought it was worth mentioning that you've probably only seen the tip of the iceberg, cult-wise.
I mean -- I know some guys --
-
Not you... think of it as good advise in general.
-
Answers
-
A Denon AVR-X3500 or Marantz SR6013 from A4L https://www.accessories4less.com/
then an Outlaw 5000 https://www.outlawaudio.com/products/5000.html
or
Monoprice Monolith 5 https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15593
Or
Emotiva XPA5 https://emotiva.com/collections/amps/products/xpa-5-gen3
RTi12 are a hard speaker to drive on an AVR alone.
When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
Hello first i would like to say thank you for the info.
Question if i’m going to run a power amp why not keep the old HK 630 amp ?
Also with the power amp what out put would you go with just a 2ch driven or 5ch driven ?
Once again thx -
Just a friendly correction, an AVR is not generally referred to as an amp, just an AVR. There's a difference between an AVR, integrated amp, receiver, and amp.
As to what amp how often do you sit and listen to regular two channel music vs how often do you use it for TV/movies/video games?afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
I would be using it more for tv and movies. But that being said when i am listening to music i want it to pound. Get as close to max performance in both mods.
Thx for the help. -
You have an Audio Video Receiver not an amplifier. Yours has pre outs, but it doesn't have HDMI, which you'll need, so get a new AVR making sure it has pre outs.
As for adding an amplifier I suggest you look at a warmer sounding one to help tame your inherently bright speakers. Marantz or Parasound would be a good choice. A 3 or 5 channel amplifier would be best as the front 3 are the most important.So i have been trying to figure out how to get the max power out of these speakers.
Speakers do not put out power.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thx yes speakers don’t put out power. I missed spoke.
On the power amp how meany watts per ch should i be looking at
Thx -
Whatever your wallet can afford, but keep in mind that watts per channel is only part of what counts and it's not the most important one, high current is more important. If an amplifier doubles or comes close to doubling in power from its 8 ohm rating to its 4 ohm rating it is a good sign that it's a high current amplifier.
This would be a good choice. https://www.parasound.com/a31.phpPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
So if you were in my shoes what would you get ?
For receiver ?
Power amp?
If i’m going to replace my receiver. Too j would be around the 2500 mark. -
Thx for the info 👍🏽
-
Suggestions will be all over the place. Also new or used, as used would open up many more possibilities.
F1NUT's suggestions are spot on with those speakers. Also, leave some room for good cabling in your budget, it does make a difference.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
With a $2500 budget I think even a used Parasound might be a stretch.
The Marantz or denon would be good as a pre + amp would not be able to fit in the OP's budget. Thing to watch out for on the Marantz is that darn porthole display, drove me nuts over time.When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
I would be using it more for tv and movies. But that being said when i am listening to music i want it to pound. Get as close to max performance in both mods.
Thx for the help.
Welcome to Club Polk. I checked out your HK, It doesn't have all the latest and greatest codecs and no HDMI, but it does have preouts. So if you want you can hook it up with ICs, and just get a 5 channel amp. All of Loren's recommendations are good.
I would personally go for a new receiver ( I'm partial to Marantz) and then get a separate amplifier to power the speakers. I always suggest a min of 200wpc at 8ohms. This is enough to ensure all of your speakers can operate to their full potential.
Keep us updated on what you ultimately decide.Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2 -
I always suggest a min of 200wpc at 8ohms. This is enough to ensure all of your speakers can operate to their full potential.
Hahah, here we go again with the "minimum of 200wpc" mumbo jumbo. -
Hello thank for all the info.
From the comment before I know what i have is an avr receiver.
For cables im using monster pro cables for everything.
I agree time to change out the receiver.
So here are a few more question:
Would you just go with a 5ch not a 7ch power amp for future upgradeability? Is there even a point to 7.1 ?
200 wats per channel will be enough to power everything else but is that enough power to make the RTI 12 pound ? Get max performance out of them ?
Also when choosing am should i take i to consideration like the DB? What OMS it will run at ? How big the power supply is ?
Do power amp connection with an in put for subs ?
When using a power amp thats whats powering the speakers? Meaning you cant us the receiver and amp to power the speakers?
Thank guys.
-
PolkAudioJoJo wrote: »“Warmer sounding amplifier” -. Could you please elaborate? Engineers wince whenever it is suggested that an amplifier has a "signature sound" because it suggests coloration, which is directly antithetical to everything Hi-Fi has stood for since the very beginning.
To suggest that one sounds different from the other means that one or the other is coloring the signal (or even both). The guiding principle of any brand has always been firmly grounded in NO coloration. Coloration is measured as DISTORTION. When an amplifier is spec @ x watts 20-20,000 hz with no more than y% THD, it either performs to that spec or it does not. Pure and simple. If one performs and sounds different than another, either it’s out of spec and needs service or they’re LYING about their performance specs!
If you don’t like the sound, add acoustic dampening on your walls, get an equalizer, or change your speakers.
You should change your username to "Fear Inoculum" because you are the new TOOL. -
LOL. Good one, but insulting to Tool. Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
SPolkAudioJoJo wrote: »...To suggest that one sounds different from the other means that one or the other is coloring the signal (or even both). The guiding principle of any brand has always been firmly grounded in NO coloration. Coloration is measured as DISTORTION...
I hate to be the one to break this to you, but EVERY amplifier “colors” the sound to a certain degree. Further, just because it is technically distortion does not mean it is not pleasing to the ear.
Sounds like you need to listen to a few more amplifiers in quality systems, and it will become apparent.
"Conservative Libertarians love the country, progressive leftists love the government." - Andrew Wilkow
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
Cant we all just get along lol. All i want is for my house to shake when i’m watching a movie or playing music. Thank you come again.
-
PolkAudioJoJo wrote: »Better a tool than fool. I’m still waiting for an answer from F1nut
But you're JoJo. You can see into the future.
-
Cant we all just get along lol. All i want is for my house to shake when i’m watching a movie or playing music. Thank you come again.
Then you need to spend at least $20K.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Ok maybe so but these still can pound. So i want to Get the max performance out if these girls.
-
I will pick up one of the avr you guys Suggested. But i’m not still sure on the amp.
Also does polk have better tower speakers out now ? -
What does colors mean ?
-
What does colors mean ?
Usually the addition or subtraction of harmonics to the original signal based on the amp's architecture. -
With the possible exception of second harmonic distortion from a single ended
amplifier, I don't think it's harmonic distortion that's responsible for warmth vs. not warmth of an amplifier's sound.
This said, I am not sure what the root cause is -- I don't think anyone is, else all amplifiers probably would sound about the same.
My assessment isn't that such things aren't measurable; just that we don't know what to measure.
D. R. von Recklinghausen figured that out way before me, though
http://hhscott.com/vonrecklinghausen.htm"If it measures good and sounds bad, -- it is bad. If it sounds good and measures bad, -- you've measured the wrong thing."
