What did you do to your stereo rig today?

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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,475
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    Is that all ya' got?

    ......slacker......

    (For the record, that's 3 times)

    But, he knows me. That last one hurt.

    I have some advice for you young whippersnappers....work to live, not live to work.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,173
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    audioluvr wrote: »
    ....

    How many friggen times do we have to post pictures of your stupid amps!!!

    As many times as I damn well please, when and where I feel like it.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,475
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    Spoken like a true Marine.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,166
    edited March 22
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    llfa8lhgysll.jpg

    I wouldn't say fabulous........uh, tube-ulous????

    DAMMIT John, you got me looking in places I have no place being......Hey, LOOK, it's ELVIS..(snatches the C2300 and runs).....
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,580
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    treitz3 wrote: »
    Finally broke down and ordered some acoustical treatment for the room. Hopefully, it's worth the investment. Ceiling, 1st reflection points and behind the listening position. I figure that's a good start to see what they can actually do.

    The panels I got are a combo of diffusion and absorption, so I don't deaden the sound too much....which is a fear of mine. We shall see...

    Currently listening to anything that is on my list, switching to physical music every once in a while.

    I also have Jonny working on building another custom cable for me. This one he normally doesn't sell but I would like to try out something. Hopefully, it will work out. Based on prior experience with his other offerings? I think I'll be a happy camper.

    I'm just happy to not be working. Looking forward to the weekend!

    Tom

    I traded my Polk SDA SRS 2's to a guy that came in with a PC and mic then set up the entire room with some panels. (I had tile floors) I already had purchased the bass traps. But man was it worth it. Cleaned up the sound big time. Before the treatments a hand clap in the room resonated for what seemed like a full second. After it was a clap and then instant nothing. Although the room was not totally dead. Bass really came alive and sharpened up. Imaging improved drastically . It was probably the single best upgrade Ive ever done. I wish my new home had a dedicated listening room. Unfortunately it does not and my equipment is in the living room. I still have some nice panels I may be able to put up with out getting a frown from the wife. Although, she will let me pretty much do what I want. I just want to be considerate.

    I'm still reading through the thread, but I hope you really enjoy the treatments.
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,774
    edited March 27
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    Been away from the 2CH rig for a few months, but after a few tracks I started hearing some "artifacts" for lack of better terms. Sometimes a "double sound" in the left speaker, like a mirror image of the right but in small increments.

    I was thinking it might be the dimensional circuit unable to fully cancel a signal at times. After a few weeks I wanted to poke around while on vacation and see if I could possibly kickstart any upgrade ideas.... B) .

    I can clearly hear the speakers go to "normal 2CH" with the IC removed, then back to being dimensional with it connected...but I opened up the left speaker today and removed the crossover. All looked good until I lightly tugged on some leads.

    x5t1iptv4x31.jpg


    Big coil lead somehow came loose, I obviously botched that solder connection. It was snug enough to make contact, but it pretty much fell right out.


    cxzwvskn08gh.jpg


    Been also debating re-wiring the tweeter header to some type of copper connection as those pins are phosphor bronze. The 4 and 5 pin header are avail in a copper alloy but not the 6-pin.

    All my current headers are bronze but the gear sounds good at the moment.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,677
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    Did you crimp AND solder those connections? I always do.
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,774
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Did you crimp AND solder those connections? I always do.

    I did not.

    The leads are Cardas Litz so I had to tin the ends in a solder pot to melt the coating, this somewhat keeps them from forming in a crimp. Generally I never have an issue with a soldered connection but this time was different.

    For the time being I went ahead and removed the connections and soldered the leads directly to the tabs.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,677
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    Gotcha, that makes sense.
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,774
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    I ordered a few parts to modify my crossover upgrade to the 2.3 TL's. When I assembled Gimpods boards I didn't pay too much attention to the materials in the header sockets and pins I ordered. May not make much if any difference, but worth a try.

    My current 4,5 & 6 pin headers are
    tinned, phosphor bronze pins with tin pins on the speaker wire harness. I am going to try the copper alloy headers with tinned copper pins for the speaker harness.

    Only issue is there isn't an option for a 6-pin header in copper alloy, so I may just use copper male/female pins under heat shrink bypassing the 6-pin header socket.

    Always fun to tinker, will definitely report my findings.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,164
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    If you plan to keep them installed forever... Would be a pita but you could just directly solder the wiring to the board if it was that much of a concern
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,774
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    VR3 wrote: »
    If you plan to keep them installed forever... Would be a pita but you could just directly solder the wiring to the board if it was that much of a concern

    I hear ya, and really the only next step would possibly be point to point wiring but it would surely be a pita to remove if needed but not terribly so.

    The only part that bothers me, is not knowing....so it's worth the labor. Solder wick makes very quick work of removing PCB components..... B)
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,475
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    b0vdinzf2c0s.jpg

    Got a little sumphin' delivered today.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 1,644
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    Nice! Once you do the first one or two, it's pretty easy to hang the rest and keep them all level. Ceiling ones are a little more work, but the brackets help. A laser "tape" measure comes in handy, too.

    These are GIK, right?

    Look forward to your impressions!

    Brian

    One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,475
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    Yup. Just got done opening the first box and setting it up as a floorstander. They look great! Only issue is the one I just built was damaged in shipping (but I think it really slipped by QC because the box on both sides in that area were in perfect shape).

    These first two are part of the Impressions Series, 6".

    ifwxt91dawki.jpg

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • Jetmaker737
    Jetmaker737 Posts: 1,015
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    Is that the walnut veneer? That looks so much better than it does on their website.
    SystemLuxman L-590AXII Integrated Amplifier|KEF Reference 1 Loudspeakers|PS Audio Directream Jr|Sansui TU-9900 Tuner|TEAC A-6100 RtR|Nakamichi RX-202 Cassette
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,475
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    Yes, it is. I wouldn't exactly call it "veneer" though. It's barely even 1/2 a MM thick. Still, it does look nice. The other 3 came today but I won't be able to hang the ones for the ceiling until the support hangers come in. They are on BO right now.

    In the meantime, I can experiment with them simply placed in different areas of the room, just to see how they change things.

    FWIW, they do look much better in person than they do on their website. I almost didn't order the Walnut because of the photos they have on the website. They don't really do them justice at all.

    Tom

    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 1,644
    edited March 30
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    What the heck?! They were on back order when I got mine a year ago, too! Freakin’ simple bracket to be so hard to get all the time! Never could get a good date when to expect them, either. They just showed up out of the blue about six weeks after the panels did.

    Frustrating as all get out! Hope you don’t have as long a wait.

    Brian

    One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,475
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    Duly noted and thanks man. I am done with adult chores, so back to experimenting and listening to some good tunes.

    I can't wait to hear what the one behind me does, seeing as my head sits about a foot or so from the back wall. It's a 1x4 Impressions series diffuser/absorber.

    Time to go have some audio fun!

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,580
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    Wow, those are next level man. Look incredible!
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,166
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    treitz3 wrote: »
    b0vdinzf2c0s.jpg

    Got a little sumphin' delivered today.

    Tom

    LOVE the CD rack
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,774
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    Crossover parts arrived today, I want to experiment with changing out my tin pins to tinned copper, as well as the 4 and 5 pin header from phosphor bronze to copper alloy.

    New copper pin on right, tin on left

    svexh4jiojs9.jpg


    Tin on bottom, male and female copper above.

    rat3gb4870i6.jpg

    No 6-pin tweeter header avail in copper, so I may just use the male and female under heatshrink.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,677
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    The copper looks a bit bigger, how do you plan on crimping that down on the wire? Where did you pick them up and stock number would be cool...
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,214
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    To me, "copper alloy" could mean anything from brass to bronze to tellurium copper. Too vague for me.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,677
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    To me, "copper alloy" could mean anything from brass to bronze to tellurium copper. Too vague for me.

    Well we all can't be as drool cool as you George.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,214
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    To me, "copper alloy" could mean anything from brass to bronze to tellurium copper. Too vague for me.

    Well we all can't be as drool cool as you George.

    Ahh you misunderstood me Ivan. I see many sellers, especially Chinese, using that "copper alloy" and it is a pet peave of mine. Not criticizing gmcman in the least.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,774
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    The copper looks a bit bigger, how do you plan on crimping that down on the wire? Where did you pick them up and stock number would be cool...

    I think the angle of the pic is making it look larger than it is, I will solder the pin then close the tabs.

    My original female pins that are tin are Mouser P/N 571-3505501
    New copper female pins are Mouser P/N 51-926901-3
    New copper male pins are Mouser P/N 571926900-3

    The new copper alloy header does not have a split opening so it cannot apply tension to the pins so this might be a no go.

    b2gryjejsys7.jpg



    To me, "copper alloy" could mean anything from brass to bronze to tellurium copper. Too vague for me.

    I was thinking the same, could be just an expensive way of selling a piece of bronze, but I feel the material has a fair bit of copper in it. Either way, the header pins are solid and not split so it barely has tension. I will still change the pins on the harness to the copper on the input and I have enough length on the new internal wiring to possibly allow me to solder to the board.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,214
    edited April 4
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    I checked out the datasheets and they are saying those female and male pins are actually made out of CuSn4, which is phosphor bronze. BUT the datasheet ALSO says the contact zone is supposed to be 0.8um gold plated over nickel?

    33boxovbe8ce.jpg
    xdd6543vrihw.jpg
    pi65jxty44r3.jpg

    Beryllium Copper is probably the best material for spring contacts as far as I've been able to determine so far:

    tjdjayunw62u.jpg
    c4eyg9qqbvt2.jpg
    aqcu2pcnqvgd.jpg

    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • gmcman
    gmcman Posts: 1,774
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    I checked out the datasheets and they are saying those female and male pins are actually made out of CuSn4, which is phosphor bronze. BUT the datasheet ALSO says the contact zone is supposed to be 0.8um gold plated over nickel?

    Interesting find, I see that the copper content states "remains" possibly signifying the remaining 90+% of materials?

    Haven't looked up my original tin pins, but the new ones are tinned copper so could explain the data sheet.

    Given the added length of internal leads I may scrap this idea and remove the headers and solder all the leads to the board. I don't have any plans to remove the crossover unless I upgrade the large inductor.

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,214
    edited April 5
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    Datasheet just linked to a Tyco catalog. Old ones were brass with tin plating. Unspecified brass alloy

    5zisd8efb5lf.jpg

    Brass has pretty good electrical conductivity (better than phosphor bronze) but not as good for keeping a tight grip in a spring contact(?):

    8tlb9hj0maxr.jpg

    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform