The Tale Of 5 Tweeters - SDA Tweeter Replacement Guide

124

Comments

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,193
    If there is, I don't know of it. Some insight is to be gained by Polk having to re-engineer replacements for the SL2000 and SL3000 tweeters. I don't think it's that easy to find off-the-shelf tweeters that are close in performance and electrical characteristics to the originals.

    What do you think about these specs? It is a Peerless/Vifa treated silk dome that is also used in Dali speakers.

    I ask, because I've listened to these in another DIY build. They are inexpensive, Beautiful, crystal clear and I know they fit the SL1000 cutouts. I would build billet SL1000 replacement adapter plates for them. As an aside, It is interesting that they share the same magnet bolt pattern as 194/198's

    7dchfuhzvh0v.png
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Just wanted to say thank you. Thank u very much(elvis). Because I had to choose between 194 and 198s when I redid my XO and overhaul and I knew it had to be one or the other. This confirms they are both good. And it I didnt have any analysis to go buy really. I just picked up the consensus from good postings here. And for me it seemed the 198s were what was going to work for my ears the most. This data is much appreciated as supporting evidence and my ears dont fail me. Thanks all for a great place on the web and the ideal setup Im content with.
    Cool stuff: Adcom GFA-555, GFP-710, Oppo BDP-83, Monitor 10's w/RDO198s, rebuilt and modded XO: Sonicap/Mundorf topside, Daytons Low.
    Benq W5000

    "Leaning back like a maxwell tape commercial listening to pure polk bliss"
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 3,950
    edited August 2020
    I know the Peerless tweeters were not in any SDA speakers and therefore not pertaining to the title of the thread but I though this was interesting from an eBay seller who measured some NOS Peerless tweeters he is selling (Peerless K010DT 810665 Silk Dome Tweeter):

    PS: It seems to have an average impedance (2kHz and above) of around 9.5 Ohms, whereas the SL1000 was around 7.25 Ohms. The SL1000 has been said to have been the warranty replacement that Polk used for the Peerless, perhaps when they severed their relationship and no longer used Peerless tweeters. I know there is more to determining if two tweeters are compatible in frequency response but it makes me wonder. The other Thiele Parameters are quite different.

    c6smrj41xzj6.png
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 3,950
    Looks like a factory Dimensions Drawing (posted by eBay seller):

    49lmv83wcwtu.png
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,193
    When I get time next week, I'll dissect, compare domes, then rebuild a set of these Peerless with the aftermarket silk domes.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,193
    edited January 2021
    The SL2500 dome material looks just like the same material used on Polk's SL5000 "dynamic balance" tweeters...
    The magnet bolt pattern fits the SL2000 pattern, not RDO.

    vwloxvvlgrxp.jpg

    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Wow! Thank God for this article.

    I have had a pair of Polk RTA11 TLs for years. I thought something sounded a little off. I never could figure it out until now.

    I usualy listen to music in the background when I am doing something else but, once in a while I just put on an album and really listen to it. It was during those few and far between sessions that I would notice something. The stereo image was a little off maybe.

    I thought it might be my imagination. I thought it might be a blown speaker element. I did all kinds of fequency tests through the speakers. Both speakers were able to recreate all frequencies. I did touch and listen tests to all of the speaker elements. There was no blown element.

    All the speakers were fine yet, they definitely sounded different. Seemed like the problem area was with the high frequencies. Years ago, I noticed that one of the tweeters was silver and one of the tweeters was black. I didn't think about that for many years.

    Finaly, I took the grills off and unscrewed the tweeters. One tweeter was an SL2500 and the other was an SL3000. They were clearly marked.

    I'm not really sure why there are different tweetersin my speakers. I bought them from a local hi-fi store that has gone out of business since the 90s. Were they damaged in the store and repaired? Did Polk run out of SL3000s on the day they made my speaker?

    Has anyone else seen an SL2500 inside an RTA 11TL?

    So, I went ahead and ordered a pair of RD-0198s. That should fix the problem.

    I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate the time and effort that you put into this article. I will let you know how my new RD-0198s turn out.

    Thanks so much.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,190
    Polk didn't put the SL2500 in your speaker.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BlueBirdMusic
    BlueBirdMusic Posts: 1,986
    @chargingBull:

    Welcome to the Forum. Stay and you will have a lot of fun.

    For your first post, it was interesting.
    When we Forgive, the Past never controls us, and You live in Freedom

    Harry / Marietta GA
  • Lucid1
    Lucid1 Posts: 1
    Long time Polk fan but new to this forum. I've finally taken the dive into "fixing" my vintage speakers so I'm still learning what I need to know and this post along with the subsequent comments was exactly what I was looking for regarding my tweeter options - thanks for the education!!
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,190
    Welcome to Club Polk.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • This was exactly what I was looking for!
    I just revamped the home theatre and am now using my dads old Monitors 10Bs, called Polk Audio Customer service and am ordering up 2 RD-0194s to upgrade the one (broken) and other tweeters as I have heard some great reviews

    Being in signal processing engineering, these phase/frequency diagrams were a fantastic visual to confirm what I wanted.

    Thanks.
  • Hansvelton
    Hansvelton Posts: 148
    Wow! Thank God for this article.

    I have had a pair of Polk RTA11 TLs for years. I thought something sounded a little off. I never could figure it out until now.

    I usualy listen to music in the background when I am doing something else but, once in a while I just put on an album and really listen to it. It was during those few and far between sessions that I would notice something. The stereo image was a little off maybe.

    I thought it might be my imagination. I thought it might be a blown speaker element. I did all kinds of fequency tests through the speakers. Both speakers were able to recreate all frequencies. I did touch and listen tests to all of the speaker elements. There was no blown element.

    All the speakers were fine yet, they definitely sounded different. Seemed like the problem area was with the high frequencies. Years ago, I noticed that one of the tweeters was silver and one of the tweeters was black. I didn't think about that for many years.

    Finaly, I took the grills off and unscrewed the tweeters. One tweeter was an SL2500 and the other was an SL3000. They were clearly marked.

    I'm not really sure why there are different tweetersin my speakers. I bought them from a local hi-fi store that has gone out of business since the 90s. Were they damaged in the store and repaired? Did Polk run out of SL3000s on the day they made my speaker?

    Has anyone else seen an SL2500 inside an RTA 11TL?

    So, I went ahead and ordered a pair of RD-0198s. That should fix the problem.

    I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate the time and effort that you put into this article. I will let you know how my new RD-0198s turn out.

    Thanks so much.

    Did you buy them "new" in box, or were they display/demo models?

  • Long time polk owner, bought a very nice set of SDA SRS2 and they were totally stock,
    Never had any problems and they sounded great with my amp and large room until a week ago when i was playing some distorted music (ACDC) apparently too loud and the tweeters on the left channel cut out. I turned it off and let them rest for a while and when I turned them back on they seemed fine. Last night I started noticing cutting in and out of the tweeters from the same speaker. My question, is it time for the upgrades to the RDO 0194-1's or could it be the crossovers ??
  • Therockit1 wrote: »
    Long time polk owner, bought a very nice set of SDA SRS2 and they were totally stock,
    Never had any problems and they sounded great with my amp and large room until a week ago when i was playing some distorted music (ACDC) apparently too loud and the tweeters on the left channel cut out. I turned it off and let them rest for a while and when I turned them back on they seemed fine. Last night I started noticing cutting in and out of the tweeters from the same speaker. My question, is it time for the upgrades to the RDO 0194-1's or could it be the crossovers ??

    More likely the polyswitch is craping out. Replace it with a .5 ohm 12 watt mills resistor , then replace the tweeters with RD-0194-1s
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • is there any pics or vids on this form to do that as I have not messed with crossovers before
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 23,736
    Therockit1 wrote: »
    is there any pics or vids on this form to do that as I have not messed with crossovers before

    Can you solder, have you ever soldered before?
  • been a while i do still have a soldering gun
  • I noticed there 2 sets of crossovers in the SRS 2's maybe it would make more sense to have someone just
    upgrade them. Im sure theres people here that can do it ?
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 23,736
    Therockit1 wrote: »
    I noticed there 2 sets of crossovers in the SRS 2's maybe it would make more sense to have someone just
    upgrade them. Im sure theres people here that can do it ?

    yes contact DHS speaker service

    http://www.dhsspeakerservice.com
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,008
    Therockit1 wrote: »
    I noticed there 2 sets of crossovers in the SRS 2's maybe it would make more sense to have someone just
    upgrade them. Im sure theres people here that can do it ?

    He is also the westmass guy that responded to your question 1st...Dave is a great guy...good luck
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
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    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • The next question is how difficult is it to remove the crossovers to ship them
    is there a step by step somewhere here ?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,190
    Considering this is a tweeter thread start your thread.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,956
    Therockit1 wrote: »
    The next question is how difficult is it to remove the crossovers to ship them
    is there a step by step somewhere here ?
    F1nut wrote: »
    Considering this is a tweeter thread start your thread.
    @Therockit1 Jesse is sayin’ you should start a separate thread for your project. He’d prefer you did not post any more discussion of the above here.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • lzuo
    lzuo Posts: 3
    edited December 2022
    Upon reading all the great comments about the tweeter upgrade, I ordered and just received a pair of RD0198-1's to replace the SL3000's in my RTA15tl's. Unfortunately, I can't seem to figure out how to disconnect the wires from the SL3000's and connect to the RD0198-1's. I was thinking I could just pull them out of the old tabs and plug in the tabs on the new tweeters. But that does not seem to work. Any ideas? Any helpful info is great appreciated.
  • Pictures of how the wires are connected?

    Usually you can pry the clips loose if they're on the ravs too tightly.
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 23,736
    Those should have a large and small quick connect tabs. I'm pretty sure Polk was not soldering them on at the time your speakers were made. You should be able to pull them off and slide on to the new tweeters.
  • lzuo
    lzuo Posts: 3
    Thanks to plastic_avatar andpitdogg2 for your response!

    Here are the photos of the two connectors on the SL3000:

    5ojoyohm9o3a.jpg
    wsysjcii2lkv.jpg
  • I don't think they used any solder or else they wouldn't have faced the faston connector in your bottom photo towards the magnet. I think you are going to have to grip them by the crimp with a pair of needle nose and pull hard, with the tweeter safely braced against a surface so as to not damage the dome.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 23,736
    Or wiggly top to bottom a bit.