A Real SL 2000 Hack. Replace stock (burnt voice coils) with "silk diaphragm dome ".

xschop

When they get sneaky, you have to out-sneak them....
Just mill (or can simply drill next size) the sl1000 mount holes and they bolt right up...
With M4 x 0.7 Allen domes....another Polk sneaky.
The Sl1000 magnets are tapped 8-32...

xschop

Here's what you sent on top and the new silks on bottom....

VSAT88

Much nicer part that one..

xschop

Much nicer sounding as well. Even moreso than the individual aftermarket silks I would say because they are playing the lower piano and sax notes with ease and naturalness...
In retrospect those individual silks were ohmed higher than these diaphragmed ones...

These match the Sl5000's at 6.2 ohm also but do seem to play the upper mids extremely well...
Magnets are a bit beefier too...

kevinko

sniff sniff ... I hardly recognize 'em ...
do they miss me?

xschop

They wouldn't feel so homesick if they had a proper set of enclosures to reside.

kevinko

My ears have grown accustomed to the Mott Jrs.

Abbey Road sounded very nice.

xschop

Lol....
Mills has a 0.5 ohm resistor you should try. I'm going to order a pair and test on these sl1000 when I get a chance to rebuild them with the bare silks just like yours. Maybe even jumper them, if they blow out its cheaper than blowing an engine haha...

The Dining room XS-Jrs are getting their proper XS Billet terminal plates....

VSAT88

Those are some kinda kickass !

xschop

Here you go Vsat.... Thank you very much for the contribution to this project. I can confidently proceed with the last piece to my XS-CRS project now I have torn down both tweeters and mic'd.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/122307253773

xschop

Finished 2nd set...

Tracks with low sax notes playing thru a factory 5Jr crossover as the 4 set screws are tightened on a criss-cross pattern is the way to go. They are easy to misalign and will sound veiled if tightened down incorrectly....

kevinko

You are welcome to ship them to me so I can compare them to the first set. I'll just thank you in advance.

xschop

They're currently taped to the shop TMMs for the last 3 days at a decent volume. I removed and jumpered the 1 ohm Mills resistor....

kevinko

Second time the charm?

xschop

They are definitely more lively and still yet don't get on your nerve like the SL1000s do...
I ordered the 0.5 ohm 12watt mills resistors to try, but as is they are not imbalanced from the mids or lows.

I also made some 2" id x 3" od 3M 1/4" thick felt pads for the storage/shipping boxes so the domes don't get assaulted by the postal workers lol....

VSAT88

xschop , did any new work of late ? I am just checking in here on the old thread. Ordered four of those silks from mr. eBay should be here in a week or two. I have been having some trouble with a few new RD 0194's that I bought not to long ago. Have you had any buzz or rattle on you ? I tried loosening the screws on them and re tightening and it is not as bad but still has a bit of a rattle-buzz..

xschop

Those replacement diaphragms sound great. Interestingly they are tighter-woven than the factory RD0194 silk domes.
I posted a reply somewhere here, and another member confirmed my suspicions that the factory RD0194 plastic faceplates have a design flaw at the 4 baffle mount hole interfaces. They are too shallow and can be remedied by adding washers to make up for the difference in seating depth. This will prevent the plastic faceplate from distorting while torquing down to baffle.

VSAT88

I wish i had an image of that. Cant quite grasp what you mean but I will take one down and see. Thanks.

VSAT88

xschop wrote: »

Two locating notch reliefs with a few strokes of 1/4" round file and they're set....

Did you only have to do the two relief spots on the outside of the plastic or did you have to file the two centering holes ? The same ones that you sent the ebay link for that I just got in would not fit unless I opened those two centering holes. The stock Polk plastic frames had one hole elongated and one round...

xschop

IIRC, yes. Just enough so that the coil is allowed to center itself on the pole with some play. This will ensure that the four metric screws can be tightened in a criss-cross pattern gently and no resonance/clear sound is heard.

VSAT88

OK, that is what I had to do as well. It looked in your pictures that one of your holes was elongated and one round like the stock coil. Mine were not like that. Thanks.

xschop

Good deal. Keep us updated on any resonance issues. If so, then it would implicate the plastic bezel/frames.

VSAT88

Yep, if another rattlesnake gets in there I will. Still can't figure out for sure how it did to start with. There ain't no port holes ???

xschop

I was not joking about applying butyl mat to the RD0194 frames in your other thread. It wouldn't hurt. Reason being, is the one RD0194 frame that I have in the previous posts here, would absolutely not stop resonating until I modded the magnet and coil to mount to the SL-1000 alloy frame. Buzzing went away.

VSAT88

Butyl Matt ? What is that, the Dynamat stuff ?

xschop

Yes, Dynamat if that is your brand preference. After you're satisfied with the sound/adjustment, you could also add some non-gassing RTV between coil terminals and bezel frame areas also. This would strengthen the area for lead attachments as well.

VSAT88

Check that. Thanks.

RandyCroissant

Hey gents how hard would it be to machine new thicker tweeter baffles?

xschop

The SL1000 and RD0194 plate Lengths x Widths and baffle mount hole distances are different. So you would copy either's LxW and machine a 1.35" diameter through-hole with 4ea 3/16" holes on 39mm square.
If I come across a set of 1C's locally I will build a single plate for both tweeters this way. It would also strengthen the baffle.

RandyCroissant

Thanks xschop, I have a pair of 1Cs interested in the tweeter plates you mentioned above, how much would something like that cost you think, Thanks
Randy