A Real SL 2000 Hack. Replace stock (burnt voice coils) with "silk diaphragm dome ".

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I found this thread while looking for a peerless dome to replace in another set of SL1000.

    What is the insulator in the wire channel from factory?
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    On the SL 2000 the plastic on the tweeter face and silicon on the front of that. I hope I answered what you wanted answered.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Yes, thanks. I had to get a pick in the SL1000 channel. Its hard like epoxy.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    Never saw an SL 1000 in person. Just SL 2000 / RDO 194.
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    xschop wrote: »
    Yes, thanks. I had to get a pick in the SL1000 channel. Its hard like epoxy.

    Post before and after images ??
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    edited March 2017
    Oh, BTW. I did up two sets of RDO 194's that smoked as well. They reside in my shop speakers, a set of RTA 8's. I had four that a bad pre amp took out. Two sound great. The other two's VC scrubs. Have not took time to go back in and try to fix them. I may have posted something about this before but I cannot recall.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,413
    xschop wrote: »
    Yes, thanks. I had to get a pick in the SL1000 channel. Its hard like epoxy.

    strange every SL1000 I have had, had a silicone like caulk in it. Midwest speaker sells a peerless silk dome look alike I have heard they are very nice. They come in 4ohm and 8ohm
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited March 2017
    I gave away two sets and modded one that still was mediocre. I tossed another recently and I dissected and mic'd this one for fun to see what could be done. The sl1000 is pot metal with the cast Polk insignia and would look as unique as the Peerless and hopefully sound as good.

    I looked at the eBay silk domes and found one that shows the 38.00mm OD dimension that matches factory.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    The sl1000 metal plate presents an issue where the silk dome flange overlaps the seat. I can see where the factory acrylic/epoxy was applied ever so thinly in that area so as to insulate the wire yet not make a bulge for the dome flange to deform once glued down...kpgtfh7edddy.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Very interesting that even the part #s are 5514....

    8addqvcta88o.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Here is what I ordered due to the dimensions shown and the fact it is tight-woven...

    I don't want to hijack your thread Vsat, so I can start another one just for the SL1000 mod if you mind.

    huen5c0mi75g.png




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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Is the Aileen's Tacky Glue an insulator when it dries?
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    xschop wrote: »
    Here is what I ordered due to the dimensions shown and the fact it is tight-woven...

    I don't want to hijack your thread Vsat, so I can start another one just for the SL1000 mod if you mind.

    huen5c0mi75g.png




    Why would I mind ? We seem to have basically the same thing in mind. I just think it neat to try and fix instead of throw away these tweeters. It gives me something to do instead of get in trouble. It certainly doen't cost too much. It tedious and time consuming with little chance of great success. Right up my alley. So far I have two that came out really good, I should say great...Those were the RDO-0194 tweeters with the new diaphragms. I just bought all four new RDO-0194's for my SDA-SRS 2 speakers. I never intended to use any of the repaired tweeters in them but I have other Polk's that I have no problem using these in..
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    Don't think I would trust Aileen's as an insulator however that stuff is about as good as it gets for an over all glue. I love that stuff.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Thanks good info. I'll mod accordingly. I was going to set up in mill and flycut the anodized finish off because it is either oxidized or greyish from factory. Instead I gave them a 220 grit brush like I did on my first Jrs. As a side note this alloy could also be mirror-polished... Im also doing a depth comparison on factory coil inset vs. these...

    dh1jawzyzdxy.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited April 2017
    Factory SL1000 coil depth is 0.115 and these are 0.140

    Sl1000 felt and mylar dome height is 0.260
    These are 0.270

    l9djb7guejfj.jpg
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    edited April 2017
    Those look exactly like the ones I bought last. If so they are the ones that sound great in the RDO-0194 baskets. Your work amazes me. Oh, what did you decide to use as an insulator ?
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited April 2017
    RTV just in the diag. channels. I actually got one done as this has been tedious but educational. I took a 1/4" round file and slightly channeled the area I was worried about and only added RTV162 to that area of flange. Aleens is solid.

    I need to get these in their own project. Right now I have the one duc-taped to my shop 5jrs and did some A&B comparo and will do some more tomorrow.... Possible 5Jr time-aligned I've been wanted to do?

    The sound.....exceptional, slightly louder than the SL5000's but just as silky smoooooooth. All cymbals and voicing is right... I figure it's due to the larger magnets that they are a little louder?
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  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    God if I know how to answer on any of those questions. Hope @westmassguy or @F1nut could chime in ?
    xschop wrote: »
    RTV just in the diag. channels. I actually got one done as this has been tedious but educational. I took a 1/4" round file and slightly channeled the area I was worried about and only added RTV162 to that area of flange. Aleens is solid.

    I need to get these in their own project. Right now I have the one duc-taped to my shop 5jrs and did some A&B comparo and will do some more tomorrow.... Possible 5Jr time-aligned I've been wanted to do?

    The sound.....exceptional, slightly louder than the SL5000's but just as silky smoooooooth. All cymbals and voicing is right... I figure it's due to the larger magnets that they are a little louder?

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    Seriously good people, those guys are like Polk tech support. Hope they're getting paid.
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Looks great. I only worked on the SL2000, and had to make a notch in the plastic where the coil wires extended out. No insulating was required. Those new domes have braided coil wires, which makes it more difficult.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    edited April 2017
    Yes, they are difficult to set, but easier to solder once set. Got some time on the other one this morning. Hats off to you on the Aleens. You've mentioned it a few times on other posts. Besides drying translucent, it has just the right viscosity and cure time to hold the delicate domes yet allow for adjustment....
    Of importance or not, that 0.025" difference of coil depth between the SL1000 and these is actually more coil winding for the silks as measured by a depth mic.

    Here you can see the channels I filed for the lead pathways... And 2nd pic is step #2 after step #1 of cured RTV....


    zxddmc6xb7xx.jpg

    1bn0bgsepbpm.jpg

    Post edited by xschop on
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,413
    wonder if tool dip would work on the wire leads ? just thinking out loud.
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    wonder if tool dip would work on the wire leads ? just thinking out loud.
    "Tool Dip"? That's offensive, I'm telling.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,752
    westmassguy wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    wonder if tool dip would work on the wire leads ? just thinking out loud.
    "Tool Dip"? That's offensive, I'm telling.

    1051rn9e9cfm.jpg
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,413
    Leave it to you guys :#:p to warp my honest thought lol
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I've used spray Plasti-dip on car parts. It can be layered.
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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    wonder if tool dip would work on the wire leads ? just thinking out loud.
    https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTB-400-Electrical-Waterproof/dp/B000FPAN2K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491332997&sr=8-2&keywords=Liquid+electrical+tape
    81JAU8B7mtL._SL1500_.jpg

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,413
    xschop wrote: »
    I've used spray Plasti-dip on car parts. It can be layered.

    Yes and that's why i thought about it. I've tool dipped a lot of stuff i probably should not have. Line it in the channel maybe get the lead to stick down in it apply more.

    There you go guys alley oop :p:p
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,000
    I'll try it next time. I would simply tape off channels and hit with a couple of layers, solder in wire and repeat.
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