The AI-1 Dreadnought Project Pt.2 - Upgrade to 1000VA Transformer

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,406
    edited March 2013
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    Sal, here's a pic to help you see how it's wired.

    DSC01998.jpg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,406
    edited March 2013
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    Ok, that's not exactly what Larry did, but I get what you're saying now. Mind you it still won't be completely flush as the round flange will stand 2.5mm proud.

    Do you understand the wiring now?
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,744
    edited March 2013
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    I wanted to elaborate that we are doing shotgun wiring to increase the gauge so you would wire 1plus and 2plus together and the negatives together...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,406
    edited March 2013
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    I see no advantage to that, nor is increasing the gauge always a good idea. Anyway, in order for that wiring scheme to work you will have to sum the + and - wires at the speaker end into one each anyway, so why not just twist up a double run and connect as standard. Certainly save some bother and soldering time that way.
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  • Speedskater
    Speedskater Posts: 495
    edited March 2013
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    With interconnects and wire gage, the only consideration is mechanical robustness. This is a voltage signal not a power signal so the current flow is minimal.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,406
    edited March 2013
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    Lasareath wrote: »
    What gauge is your Interconnect cable?

    No idea.
    I thought the more conductors you have the better?, To eliminate skin effect?

    There's more to it than the number of conductors and the final gauge, but speaking to gauge alone you wouldn't want to use 24 gauge, but you wouldn't want 2 gauge welding cable either.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,406
    edited March 2013
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    I'll bet if you measured that hole you used the 1" bit on it's going to be larger than 1". The holes on my enclosures are exactly one inch and the connector covers the hole with no problem. The difference is these were laser cut verses drilled. However, I can save the day for you Sal. Order part #092-094 from Parts Express. It's a sealing gasket for D-sized Neutrik connectors and will completely cover the oops.
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,359
    edited March 2013
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    Sal, why not have someone make a custom plate for this, drill and tap new threads for said plate and either paint it black or leave it the color of the plate? Add some sealant/gasket material and call it a day. Just a thought. It's your project.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,359
    edited March 2013
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    Pm me your number and give me a good time to call tomorrow to discuss. I have a long overdue date with the pillow right now.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,406
    edited March 2013
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    Hmmmm.....look around on Neutrik's site as they may have something larger. Or another idea, if you enlarge the big hole going downward a bit (try to center the Neutrik between the top and bottom), then add the sealing gasket it might just cover everything. The gasket spreads out slightly as you tighten the screws, which will help. Best to measure things first. The compressed gasket will measure 1 5/8" top to bottom.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,406
    edited March 2013
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    There ya go, Sal and it will be your own unique enclosure.
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