Best Of
Re: Review: Benchmark AHB2 Amp
Polk has been recommending separate amplification since introducing the ring radiator tweeter on its LSi lineup more than a couple decades ago. It's mainly the tweeter that presents a difficult load. When that line was introduced there were a handful of home theater receivers rated as being 4 ohm stable. Now, most mid-grade and up receivers are capable of running Polk's speakers that have that type of tweeter. The whole Reserve line is rated as being compatible with amplifiers that are 8/6/or 4 ohm stable. But merely being compatible doesn't mean a relatively small power supply in a receiver shared across 7 or more speakers wouldn't benefit from some supporting power. The tweeters in the LSiM707s get hot even with high current amplification when driven hard.
A receiver won't get the best performance out of the speakers and in the hands of people who don't know any better and drive a system at too high a volume for too long warranty repairs eventually become necessary because of blown tweeters. This is also why all but the cheapest receivers have pre-amplifier outputs. If knowledgeable customers wouldn't benefit from having them they wouldn't be there, right?
I usually recommend that someone who's interested in home theater as a hobby at least get a separate amplifier like an Outlaw Audio Model 5000x or 7000x. I have both and both are way better than any receiver at powering 4 ohm load speakers in a multichannel home theater system. But they are not intended to be the highest quality two channel amps. I switch over to Parasound or something else for that. Marantz does also make separate and integrated amps!
Crutchfield recommends high current separate or integrated amps for all of the Reserve speakers, not just the big R700s which dip down to 3.6 ohms minimum. This is from their R200 listing.
"Recommended amplifier power: 30-200 watts
high-current amplification from a quality power amp or integrated amp is recommended for best performance"
I'm glad you have some experience . You base your decesions to discount the ability of a AVR to power a theater system by spec, not by experience. My question to you is out of the 7 Theaters you spec'd and built or helped your friends do, how many had AVR's that just couldn't get the job done?
Yes I'm in the Industry , Yes I have built spec'd and installed Hundreds of Surround systems and Theater ranging from nice small family Room Bose systems to Million Dollar Wilson / Krell / Proceed etc stuff over my decades in this business. I'm not looking to measure that.
I completely disagree with you that you can't power a Theater system with a AVR because you're using internal amps. That is simply not true UNLESS you spec a AVR that does NOT have the ability to power a speaker package in a larger room that the AVR simply can't do. That my friend , we can agree. I have seen clients from companies that I have worked for in the past decide to purchase against the salesman recommended AVR and go with a less powerful unit and yes it was underwhelming and struggled to power their speaker package in their room at reference volumes.
Now under reference volumes , most AVR's will get the job done and satisfy most people. I've seen it hundreds of times. However I have also used AVR's in countless theater rooms and family lifestyle rooms where you couldn't run the AVR out of gas no matter how loud you play it.
So you again are looking at spec's and saying shared power and all that stuff matter , I can tell you, hardly never ever have I seen this happen in the real world. Powering a full Dynaudio Theater system or B&W or Monitor Audio or Klipsch or name a brand that has a line of theater speaker setups and I can match them with the room dimensions with a AVR that will power them.
So to support your point on spec's and amp shared power in a AVR, there are demands that an AVR simply can't support and you absolutely need to add external power amps or go separates , not so much today but in the past, preamps where more popular as the noise floor in older AVR's where not on the same level of dedicated preamps, that was true then not today. But again a Theater of the size 25 x 45 with all Martin Logan speakers no AVR I know of can power such a system in a 9. 2 configuration. So in this very case we can agree. I used all Proceed amps to power all these Martin Logan speakers.
Another example where you are right was a Wilson Audio Theater system I did. We used all Krell Monoblocks as a AVR was simply not going to power this system in a 20 x 31 room.
Blanket statements like yours and throwing spec's around hold NO water unless you put it into a room and speaker package. If you build a Klipsch Theater system, hardly never do you need external power amps. Marantz , Denon or Integra AVR's when again spec's correctly for the space and speaker package will absolutely drive that system into Reference with plenty of head room for dynamic passages.
The older LSI speakers from polk, yes they were power hungry and needed more current than the RT line which required much less to achieve a good theater experience. No power amps where not always necessary, I had a B&K AVR that powered the LSi's to breaking point with the internal 125 watt amp which by the way was the same exact power amp as the stand alone 125.7 you can buy. How do I know that? I watched them build it at the B&K factory in NY when I went there for training. I watched them hand build amps preamps and AVR's and all the parts they used where exactly the same in different chassis. The LSI system also responded very well to when I purchased a Pioneer Elite ICE AVR which was fantastic back in the day SC-07. It had plenty of power to drive my entire LSI 15 , LSI C , LSI 7's and LSI FX speakers to Reference levels with no issues overheated or Shut downs.
When power is needed , it's used , when power isn't needed , it's not used. You would be surprised on how many people use 1/8 of the power they have on a day to day basis to drive their speakers to levels satisfying to them. It's not always about Reference levels as not many people inlcuding everyone in this forum do not listen at Reference levels, If they did , their hearing would be damaged and then the joy of listening would be compromised.
So having this interesting conversation with you I'm not interested in Gotcha or your dumb or anything like that. But you made claims as other did on this thread about AVR's not being good enough to do the jobs they where built for. That is simply not true. Maybe many on here feel that way and that is perfectly fine. Add all the amps you want.
Phil the thread starter has very nice speakers , he changes them a lot but guess what? Ask Phil how loud he listens to he's system, I had to ask him many times to turn it up as he does NOT like it overly loud or anywhere near reference levels, it becomes uncomfortable for him and I do NOT judge him for that. He likes what he likes, he has WAY more power then he will ever use, He has REL subwoofers all over the place and they never crack a sweat. I have been to Phil's house a few times and got the pleasure of actually enjoying his company , his system and NEED all that power he has? No, his Yamaha AVR has more power than he will ever need or use but he enjoys this hobby like the rest of us as he sees fit and if he wants Parasound or whatever amp he desires and puts in his system because he likes it, I'm completely fine with that. But I'm also not going to tell him he needs it when he does not.
Apparently you and I desire different levels of performance in a home theater, and that’s fine. You are correct in your assertion that an AVR is “good enough” for the majority of HT customers. That said, I will stand by my statement that I have never encountered a situation where external amplification did not make a substantial difference in sound quality. This is also to say nothing of the myriad drawbacks of the “everything in one box” compromise of an AVR.
We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming. Apologies @pearsall001 for the thread hijack…:-)
daddyjt
1 ·
F1 Lego build with the kiddo.
Ever since seeing the F1 movie, my daughter has become a rabid F1 fan. This is the first time in her 19 years that she has ever expressed any interest in any sport. All things considered, I’m thrilled that she landed on F1 for her sport of choice, as I think that F1 drivers are generally far less toxic than athletes of many other sports.
Anyway, she’s been buying and building the smaller 1/32 scale F1 cars (about 200 pcs each), so i decided to surprise her for Christmas with the Red Bull RB20 set (about 1,600 pcs!).
The real joy in this gift however, was her and I building it together over the past week. I mostly let her run the build, only stepping in when she got stumped or got something a little wrong. I also took on the difficult task of applying all the decals for her.
The model is beyond cool, with an actual v-6 with moving pistons, real push-rod/pull-rod suspension, steering front wheels and active DRS rear wing…


Next up was displaying the finished model. Like most teen girls, space in her room is shall we say “At a premium”, lol. I came across a vertical mounting board on Amazon, but at $115 it seemed quite steep. And bland.
So…. I figured I could produce something comparable for less money. Turns out, I was right AND I was wrong. I think my final product turned out pretty good, BUT I spent about $120, lol. I started with a 3/4” MDF board 19”x30”, with a 1/2” round over routered edge. Then primed and base paint with a metallic blue. Once that dried, acrylic yellow and red splatters, then acrylic-epoxy overcoat. Then the RB20 info plaque sandwiched between lexan with a 1/2” standoff. She loves it, and we had a blast doing this whole project together - indeed I think I got more out of this gift than she did…
The Amazon board:

What I ended up with:



Anyway, she’s been buying and building the smaller 1/32 scale F1 cars (about 200 pcs each), so i decided to surprise her for Christmas with the Red Bull RB20 set (about 1,600 pcs!).
The real joy in this gift however, was her and I building it together over the past week. I mostly let her run the build, only stepping in when she got stumped or got something a little wrong. I also took on the difficult task of applying all the decals for her.
The model is beyond cool, with an actual v-6 with moving pistons, real push-rod/pull-rod suspension, steering front wheels and active DRS rear wing…


Next up was displaying the finished model. Like most teen girls, space in her room is shall we say “At a premium”, lol. I came across a vertical mounting board on Amazon, but at $115 it seemed quite steep. And bland.
So…. I figured I could produce something comparable for less money. Turns out, I was right AND I was wrong. I think my final product turned out pretty good, BUT I spent about $120, lol. I started with a 3/4” MDF board 19”x30”, with a 1/2” round over routered edge. Then primed and base paint with a metallic blue. Once that dried, acrylic yellow and red splatters, then acrylic-epoxy overcoat. Then the RB20 info plaque sandwiched between lexan with a 1/2” standoff. She loves it, and we had a blast doing this whole project together - indeed I think I got more out of this gift than she did…
The Amazon board:

What I ended up with:



daddyjt
18 ·
Re: Power Conditioner recommendations...
Sorry I'm late to the party and I see John has made his purchase.
FWIW I run an AQ PowerQuest 505 in the main set up with 8 components and the 303 bdrm set up with 3 components. It's not the Niagara but for my equipment these have been working just fine.
FWIW I run an AQ PowerQuest 505 in the main set up with 8 components and the 303 bdrm set up with 3 components. It's not the Niagara but for my equipment these have been working just fine.
Geoff4rfc
2 ·
Re: Post a picture.....any picture...part deux...
So... the 1910 duck story I posted in the "doing it wrong" thread got me to thinking about canards (where storytelling, ducks, and French all intersect)... which, of course*, led me to the XB-70 Valkyrie.
... and I learned something I didn't know until today! Whoda thunk it?**

source: https://www.reddit.com/r/WarplanePorn/comments/10ioghs/did_you_know_that_the_north_american_xb70/
______________
* of course
** Who, indeed? Virtually all of the educators saddled with me would exclaim, sooner or later: There' no teachin' that boy!
... and I learned something I didn't know until today! Whoda thunk it?**

source: https://www.reddit.com/r/WarplanePorn/comments/10ioghs/did_you_know_that_the_north_american_xb70/
______________
* of course
** Who, indeed? Virtually all of the educators saddled with me would exclaim, sooner or later: There' no teachin' that boy!
4 ·
Re: Monitor 4 upgrades



The ones in the middle are almost the exact length as the originals but do actually reach the surface of the front baffle.
DeRod
1 ·
Re: Monitor 4 upgrades

On the left is the original un modified port tube. On the right the new tube.
DeRod
1 ·
Re: 2017 Prius Head Unit
Honestly, I just went to Crutchfield to see what they said and figure out why they said it.
Then I went and dug through places like the12volt.com for info and/or wiring diagrams to see what the differences are.
While there wasn't much for a 2017 Prius specifically, the 4th Gen Prius spans 2015-2021 and I went and looked at what AV Infotainment options were available in 2017. Crutchfield's data is not 100% accurate either because they only list the Prius V and that was discontinued for 2017 in the U.S.
So if you have a Prius IV, that's confusing as hell because the V is not actually a Prius 5, it's a Prius Versatile/Alpha/+ and the regular Prius has the 1, 2, 3 and 4 monikers. They also list the Prius C as a "Wagon" when you select it and look at the option and the C is not a wagon at all, it's a short wheel base hatchback and the C stands for City.
So I went down a Prius rabbit hole trying to figure out what is actually sitting Phil's driveway and what it came equipped with. I thought the VIN would help but all it did was define the packages that were available on the different trim levels. Toyota had a tendency to make more options available for the same package on higher trim levels. I don't know if they still do it but it always was a pain trying to get the right part number for all the Toyotas we would get at The Greek's repair shop.
Anyway, it's like Uncle Ben said to Peter Parker, with great power comes great responsibility. I knew I could help and since Phil's, quite literally, practically a neighbor I'm in a unique position to be of even more help than I normally could.
Just trying to save a friend some time and money. My research took me maybe an hour because I know what I need to look for. Phil would probably still be looking or would have just gone to Suburban or over to see Angelo. At least now he can go relatively informed and knows what he's getting in to so things like sticker shock or lead times don't surprise him.
Then I went and dug through places like the12volt.com for info and/or wiring diagrams to see what the differences are.
While there wasn't much for a 2017 Prius specifically, the 4th Gen Prius spans 2015-2021 and I went and looked at what AV Infotainment options were available in 2017. Crutchfield's data is not 100% accurate either because they only list the Prius V and that was discontinued for 2017 in the U.S.
So if you have a Prius IV, that's confusing as hell because the V is not actually a Prius 5, it's a Prius Versatile/Alpha/+ and the regular Prius has the 1, 2, 3 and 4 monikers. They also list the Prius C as a "Wagon" when you select it and look at the option and the C is not a wagon at all, it's a short wheel base hatchback and the C stands for City.
So I went down a Prius rabbit hole trying to figure out what is actually sitting Phil's driveway and what it came equipped with. I thought the VIN would help but all it did was define the packages that were available on the different trim levels. Toyota had a tendency to make more options available for the same package on higher trim levels. I don't know if they still do it but it always was a pain trying to get the right part number for all the Toyotas we would get at The Greek's repair shop.
Anyway, it's like Uncle Ben said to Peter Parker, with great power comes great responsibility. I knew I could help and since Phil's, quite literally, practically a neighbor I'm in a unique position to be of even more help than I normally could.
Just trying to save a friend some time and money. My research took me maybe an hour because I know what I need to look for. Phil would probably still be looking or would have just gone to Suburban or over to see Angelo. At least now he can go relatively informed and knows what he's getting in to so things like sticker shock or lead times don't surprise him.
3 ·
Re: Pioneer RT-71 R2R Maintenance
That's a seldom-seen Pioneer, for sure!
@SCompRacer it's -- arguably
-- too bad that I didn't know then that you were a tape deck whisperer... I'd have shipped this monstrosity to you. It did work but... well... kinda a charity case, you know? 

I never quite figured this one out. I think maybe TEAC made these for Matsushita aka National aks Panasonic... but I'm not at all sure of that!
Very large and heavy for a deck that "only" took 7 inch reels -- another odd duck deck from days of yore.
@SCompRacer it's -- arguably

I never quite figured this one out. I think maybe TEAC made these for Matsushita aka National aks Panasonic... but I'm not at all sure of that!
Very large and heavy for a deck that "only" took 7 inch reels -- another odd duck deck from days of yore.
1 ·


