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Re: Advice on repairing SL1000 tweeter
Having dissected both SL1000 and SL2000, I always assumed Polk added a few more turns on the 2K coil to tame the peak due to changing to the plastic bezel.
xschop
1 ·
Re: Advice on repairing SL1000 tweeter
shnaggletooth wrote: »Picked up a pair of Monitor 7C speakers today. These have SL1000 tweeters, not the SL2000 tweeters, and the Polk badge is directly on the front bottom of the wood cabinet, not on the grill itself.
Anyway, one of the tweeters is less bright than the other. Examined it, and the clear plastic half-spherical covering has come about halfway undone the main perimeter. The black fabric-y portion underneath it floats "loose" with the cover not securing it tightly.
Not sure if that is any cause of the slight dullness, but assuming it has to be repaired anyway -- what is best to seal the covering -- rubber cement, Elmer's? Does is really matter?
Toothpick to illustrate how the plastic cover has come undone:
The way shnaggletooth described his 7Cs in this thread are exactly the way the 7Cs I bought a couple weekends ago are.
blinkbears
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Re: Advice on repairing SL1000 tweeter
@blinkbears has a set of 7C's with SL1000's he says. Are they able to take the 198's with the 8uf caps across the resistors like the last revision for SL2500 shows?
(The 198 domes and/or magnets can be adapted to the SL1000 metal plates)
Westmassguy did the TL mod to a pair of 7C with the SL2000. I wonder if the crossover was tweaked when Polk went from the early 7C with the SL1000 to the later one with the SL2000.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/192120/monitor-7-with-tl-upgrade#latest
Gardenstater
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Re: Hana Cartridges
Regarding the new Ortofon MC X series, here's a nice video tour inside their factory, and it has some good info on the new cartridges.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBKmWBkPpGs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBKmWBkPpGs
jdjohn
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Re: Hana Cartridges
There is a thread over on Vinyl Engine where a guy from London has almost 50 pages of comments (mostly just him) where he is experimenting with a Hana ML and an SUT, although the SUT is integrated into his phono stage. https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=135060displayname wrote: »I also added an SUT in the chain and that improved the sound with my specific phonostage. My guess is 60db is closer to the sweet spot on the gain, and my phono offers 58 to 64, which is why I brought in the SUT.
jdjohn
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Re: Hana Cartridges
Ha, I do have several cartridges, but actually none of those. The Hana carts have piqued my interest over the years, but I've never heard one. I know they were developed by Excel, and I do have some carts by Coral that were also done by Excel, and I like the Corals carts very much 
jdjohn
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Re: Hana Cartridges
I have a Hana ML, and I’ve heard both the Blue and the Red at shows.
Initially I took the plunge because I found an open box deal from someone downsizing. It’s been a great cart so far. At first I wasn’t as keen on it, but after close to 80 hours it seemed to really settle in. I also added an SUT in the chain and that improved the sound with my specific phonostage. My guess is 60db is closer to the sweet spot on the gain, and my phono offers 58 to 64, which is why I brought in the SUT.
Overall, I’m happy with it and I plan to keep it with me if/when I change turntables. I’d also strongly consider trading in for the Blue. Another advantage for the line is once you have a good phono match, the ML, Blue and Red all have the same output so you shouldn’t need to mess with much as you move up the line.
I’ve also been curious about the Dynavector XX-2a, but I’ve never heard any Dynavectors and I’m really in no rush to change because the ML is treating me well.
Initially I took the plunge because I found an open box deal from someone downsizing. It’s been a great cart so far. At first I wasn’t as keen on it, but after close to 80 hours it seemed to really settle in. I also added an SUT in the chain and that improved the sound with my specific phonostage. My guess is 60db is closer to the sweet spot on the gain, and my phono offers 58 to 64, which is why I brought in the SUT.
Overall, I’m happy with it and I plan to keep it with me if/when I change turntables. I’d also strongly consider trading in for the Blue. Another advantage for the line is once you have a good phono match, the ML, Blue and Red all have the same output so you shouldn’t need to mess with much as you move up the line.
I’ve also been curious about the Dynavector XX-2a, but I’ve never heard any Dynavectors and I’m really in no rush to change because the ML is treating me well.
displayname
3 ·
Re: Advice on repairing SL1000 tweeter
Gardenstater wrote: »I know it isn't your question but are you sure they are 7C and not late model 7B? I had *thought* that the 7C marked the change to the SL2000 tweeters. Late model 7B went from Peerless to SL1000 and they did have the grill not extending all the way to the bottom with the badge on the enclosure as you say. Did your speakers originally have the SL2000's?
I've never understood how, apparently the SL1000 tweeter was Polk's attempt at making a better Peerless, and how when they made the switch in the 7B they saw no need to modify the crossover networks, yet people say that the RD0194 is a replacement for the SL1000 but not the Peerless. There is also the issue of how the SL1000 mounting holes and bezel size are the same as the Peerless but not the SL2000. There were some SL1000 that were purported to be NOS on eBay but I don't know if they are still there. Everybody seems to say they are harsh sounding. I haven't heard them; only Peerless.
They are 7C's. Polk apparently was sloppy back in the day standardizing their releases.
shnaggletooth
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Re: Pool tables
Good luck. I guess there is always the option of wearing a good head lamp when you play 
billbillw
3 ·
