Polk Signature Series Official Discussion

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  • mir3aclesmir3acles Posts: 7
    DSkip wrote: »
    mir3acles wrote: »
    So I went back to best buy today and was pretty much in love with the Definitive technology 9040 but they were above my budget. None of the best buys I went to had the signature s60 on demo or in stock. Going to try the s55 tomorrow at another best buy. How different are the s55 from the s60?

    Where do you live?

    Houston area..So this time when I went to BB I heard there def tech BP9040 and liked it alot. Got that one and set it up for now. It's a shame I was unable to hear the s60 which was on my top list. Any ideas how the s60 would compare with the def tech BP9040. The biggest advantage of def tech is that it's Bipolar which gives me a more room fill. Any thoughts.
  • mir3aclesmir3acles Posts: 7
    Although I would have liked to go with the BP9060 but it was above my budget and the only difference between the BP9040 vs BP9060 is the bigger subwoofer driver which is sorta moot if you have a dedicated subwoofer.
  • rjkeerjkee Posts: 2
    edited June 12
    jmbgator wrote: »
    Hi guys- Newbie here and interested in the Signature series. I have a Denon AVR-s720 7.2 receiver rated at 75W per channel (8ohm, 20Hz-20kHz,THD:0.08% 2 channel driven). How well will the receiver drive the signature series speakers? Will I run any risk of clipping? I'm thinking of starting off in a 3.1 setup and maybe upgrade to 5.1 in the future.

    Right now, I'm thinking buying a pair of either S-20 or S-15 bookshelf speakers plus an S-35 center channel speaker.

    Will my receiver handle the requirements for these speakers or will I need to upgrade my amp?

    Appreciate any help. Thanks

    Hi there! I'm new on the forum. Thought I would share some pretty interesting info that I dug up.
    FYI: I have a Yamaha RX-v673. My left/right channels are bookshelf speakers Sony SS-B1000. The rest of my speakers are the Onkyo SKS-HT690 5.1 set (for my C/LS/RS/LSB/RSB/10"sub.
    I ordered the Polk pair of S15 to replace my Sony SS-B1000 pair, that I always thought sounded rather muted or flat. Getting the S15s in on Friday. I will let you know how they compare!
    Anyways, I always wondered what a speaker's sensitivity rating meant. You will find this pertinent to your question.
    1) These Polk S15s have a sensitivity rating of 88db. That means that getting fed 1watt of power, they will output 88db heard at a distance of 1 meter. For every 3db of sound you want to hear coming out of that speaker above its sensitivity rating will double the power requirement. It is a logarithmic scale.
    2) A reference volume at 'reference 0db' (a reference volume for movie theaters), is an absolute volume of 105db. Some audio receivers display their volume at negative reference volume scale - others display absolute positive decibels, or can switch.

    So for a sensitivity of 88db @ 1W, 91db will need 2W, 94db @ 4W, 97db @ 8W, 100db @ 16W, 103db @ 32w, 106db @ 64W.

    So you see that YOUR receiver having a peak Wattage per channel of 75 Watts is more than enough to make these Polk S15s reach reference volume.

    If you had speakers that had a sensitivity of 83db - then 83db @ 1W, 86db @ 2W, 89db @ 4W, 92db @ 8W, 95db @ 16W, 98db @ 32W, 101db @ 64W, 104db @ 128W, 107db @ 256W.

    You can see that you would need more power to push reference volume than most receivers are able to output!

    In that second scenario with a low sensitivity speaker, two things can happen when you try to push the volume loud: 1) either the speakers can handle the wattage, but the receiver isn't rated for that much power - in which case the receiver amps overheat and burn out, OR 2) the receiver can push all the power needed to reach reference volume, but it is pushing more power than the speakers are rated at, - in which case the speakers start clipping, or bottoming out and get damaged.

    Higher quality speakers with higher sensitivity ratings, like these S15s, should play more clearly at all volumes needed. Also notice that the upper power range for these speakers are 100W. Given the scale I gave you above, these speakers should be able to reach around 108db before reaching their peak rating of 100W.
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 7,471
    edited June 12
    Keep in mind that the output rating on receivers is measured at 1khz
    In addition to that it's not all about the watts but also current that the amp will provide
  • rjkeerjkee Posts: 2
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    Keep in mind that the output rating on receivers is measured at 1khz
    In addition to that it's not all about the watts but also current that the amp will provide
    Thank you.
    Not sure I understand the second part. Isn't electrical power based on current and resistance? P= I^2 x R. So for a 8 ohm resistance speaker setting, the 75 wpc receiver will output about 3 amps. If using 6 ohm speaker setting the receiver will set the current tol be 3.5 amps, right?
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 13,900
    If the amplifier can do it.

    Into low impedance loads, some amplifiers run out of steam -- sometimes with disastrous results.

  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 13,900
    edited June 16
    The OTHER REALLY important thing to remember that for almost all loudspeakers, the "nominal" impedance is just that -- nominal. Impedance depends upon frequency.

    The capacitative and reactive components of impedance also vary with frequency -- making for some interesting frequency-dependent effects on phase, too. :)

    Here's a fairly typical impedance, and phase, plot (albeit a randomly-chosen one) of a fairly good loudspeaker (Harbeth P3ESR, from 2010) from Stereophile magazine.

    810Harfig1.jpg
    source: https://www.stereophile.com/standloudspeakers/harbeth_p3esr_loudspeaker/index.html

    The load that the amplifier 'sees' at, say, 80 Hz, is very different than it is at 40 Hz, 200 Hz, or 1000 Hz.

    It is the complexity of a real-world load (i.e., loudspeaker) - and the complexity of the waveform (music!) that the amp and loudspeaker are tasked to reproduce - that makes the amplifier's job difficult (or easy, depending upon the amplifier and the loudspeaker). This is at the heart of "synergy" between loudspeakers and an amplifier.
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 13,900
    Harbeth spec'd the loudspeaker mentioned above as having a 6 ohm nominal impedance -- that's the little 'valley' in the region of 100 to 200 Hz, which is pretty typical practice for loudspeakers using dynamic drivers). According to the above-referenced Stereophile review, the manufacturer also mentioned that they're "easy to drive".

    By the way, the complexity of "real world" impedance curves is part of the reason why most (virtually all) amplifier specifications are determined using a purely resistive "dummy load". (obviously, reproducibility is another reason, in fairness!)

    Speaking of "purely resistive" loudspeaker loads -- the planar drivers used by, e.g., Magnepan (Magneplanar loudspeakers) are pretty much purely resistive loads. This impedance curve, measured for a Magneplanar MG3.6/R illustrates this. The resonant "hump" seen at ca. 1.5 kHz is due to the crossover between the LF and HF panels :)


    magfig1.jpg
    source: https://www.stereophile.com/content/magnepan-magneplanar-mg36r-loudspeaker-measurements

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,345
    2) the receiver can push all the power needed to reach reference volume, but it is pushing more power than the speakers are rated at, - in which case the speakers start clipping, or bottoming out and get damage

    That is incorrect. Clipping occurs from over driving the power source. Furthermore, one is unlikely to damage a speaker using an amp with rated power well in excess of the rated power handling of the speaker unless the user is just plain stupid. 99+% of the time damage to speakers is caused by using an underpowered amp while the user has cranked the volume level too high causing said amp to send clipped signals. Nothing kills tweeters faster.
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 8,051
    Infinity RSII can drop to 1/2 ohm loads. They are famous for killing amplifiers that aren't up to the task.
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 13,900
    lightman1 wrote: »
    Infinity RSII can drop to 1/2 ohm loads. They are famous for killing amplifiers that aren't up to the task.

    -- as were the original Quad ESL-57 electrostatics :)

    quad_impedance_graph.jpg
    source: http://www.quadesl.com/quad_main.html

    They're essentially large capacitors that make noise ;)
    They present nearly a short circuit to an amplifier at frequencies ca. 10 to 20 kHz.

    Fortunately, when appropriately driven, they make truly wonderful noise.

    11037532424_40fafabb81_b.jpgParamours and Quads 112413 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr


  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 8,051
    mhardy6647 wrote: »
    lightman1 wrote: »
    Infinity RSII can drop to 1/2 ohm loads. They are famous for killing amplifiers that aren't up to the task.

    -- as were the original Quad ESL-57 electrostatics :)

    quad_impedance_graph.jpg
    source: http://www.quadesl.com/quad_main.html

    They're essentially large capacitors that make noise ;)
    They present nearly a short circuit to an amplifier at frequencies ca. 10 to 20 kHz.

    Fortunately, when appropriately driven, they make truly wonderful noise.

    11037532424_40fafabb81_b.jpgParamours and Quads 112413 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr


    I knew there was a reason I liked you, Doc. Just couldn't place it until now.....
  • DabutcherDabutcher Posts: 1,247
    I just traded a pair of Polk Rti-A1's in Cherry that I had no use for , for a pair of S20's. I will keep you posted of impressions. Peace. D
  • msgmsg Posts: 2,884
    Niiiice!
    I'm also auditioning some S20s as well. Got about 36hrs on them so far. Not gonna say too much yet aside from that I'm impressed with what they've done with this line. I certainly like them better than RTi(not -A) series.
  • K_MK_M Posts: 794
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    Keep in mind that the output rating on receivers is measured at 1khz
    In addition to that it's not all about the watts but also current that the amp will provide

    Some yes, but this is what you need to truly see what they do!
    https://www.soundandvision.com/content/yamaha-rx-v473-and-rx-v573-av-receivers-ht-labs-measures
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 27,215
    K_M wrote: »
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    Keep in mind that the output rating on receivers is measured at 1khz
    In addition to that it's not all about the watts but also current that the amp will provide

    Some yes, but this is what you need to truly see what they do!
    https://www.soundandvision.com/content/yamaha-rx-v473-and-rx-v573-av-receivers-ht-labs-measures

    ...and some yes and no to that also. Nowhere does it give a measurement of current available, which is more useful than watts. The novice would look at those numbers and scratch their heads anyway. To be fair, most receivers don't publish an amperes peak to peak number, and for good reason to not embarrass themselves.

    Interesting enough, from that link....

    Yamaha RX-V573 A/V Receiver
    Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
    0.1% distortion at 20.8 watts
    1% distortion at 24.9 watts

    Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
    N/A (protection engages)


    So with 5 channels driven, your smacking a top end of 25 watts, with 8 ohm speakers.
    7 channels, the auto protection engages so it's pretty much going to be a cupcake for anything over smallish speakers....and only in 5 channel mode.

    That's what people need to know, in plain English. Just sayin'
  • K_MK_M Posts: 794
    tonyb wrote: »
    K_M wrote: »
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    Keep in mind that the output rating on receivers is measured at 1khz
    In addition to that it's not all about the watts but also current that the amp will provide

    Some yes, but this is what you need to truly see what they do!
    https://www.soundandvision.com/content/yamaha-rx-v473-and-rx-v573-av-receivers-ht-labs-measures

    ...and some yes and no to that also. Nowhere does it give a measurement of current available, which is more useful than watts. The novice would look at those numbers and scratch their heads anyway. To be fair, most receivers don't publish an amperes peak to peak number, and for good reason to not embarrass themselves.

    Interesting enough, from that link....

    Yamaha RX-V573 A/V Receiver
    Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
    0.1% distortion at 20.8 watts
    1% distortion at 24.9 watts

    Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
    N/A (protection engages)


    So with 5 channels driven, your smacking a top end of 25 watts, with 8 ohm speakers.
    7 channels, the auto protection engages so it's pretty much going to be a cupcake for anything over smallish speakers....and only in 5 channel mode.

    That's what people need to know, in plain English. Just sayin'

    Well in all fairness, most of the 5 channels never run full range. Usually a subwoofer is used and that changes things drastically as far as power goes.

    We have one set up where we tried one of our cheap Yamaha AVR's, and running 2 Lsi15's it was quite capable.

    Our separate amp did better for sure, but not "That" much better if that makes sense.

    Not the ultimate in high power, but frankly, was much better than we were expecting.

    When running a sub, below 100hz, the output with 2 speakers is more than enough for most levels we would ever use.

    I agree better to have "More power",but at the same time, think AVR's are more capable than they are being given credit for.

  • tonybtonyb Posts: 27,215
    True, they are not run full range, the difference being in the drastic changes a movie soundtrack has. Those surrounds can be quiet as a church mouse one second, and a cannon shot in the next. Those quick transient responses require reserve power to handle, or that cannon shot sounds like a cap gun. Music is the same way.

    Running in 2 channel mode, you'd probably not have to worry about anything with fairly efficient speakers, but speaking for myself....I wouldn't even consider putting it on a 4 ohm speaker, unless you listen at very low volumes, but then your listening without any real dynamic impact.

    Turning up the volume will put stress on the receiver, introduce distortion....as the specs show, and possibly do a smoke dance around a tweeter or 2. Point is to err on the side of having too much power than you need, not walk the line between too little and possibly doing damage. Make sense ?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,345
    K_M wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    K_M wrote: »
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    Keep in mind that the output rating on receivers is measured at 1khz
    In addition to that it's not all about the watts but also current that the amp will provide

    Some yes, but this is what you need to truly see what they do!
    https://www.soundandvision.com/content/yamaha-rx-v473-and-rx-v573-av-receivers-ht-labs-measures

    ...and some yes and no to that also. Nowhere does it give a measurement of current available, which is more useful than watts. The novice would look at those numbers and scratch their heads anyway. To be fair, most receivers don't publish an amperes peak to peak number, and for good reason to not embarrass themselves.

    Interesting enough, from that link....

    Yamaha RX-V573 A/V Receiver
    Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
    0.1% distortion at 20.8 watts
    1% distortion at 24.9 watts

    Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
    N/A (protection engages)


    So with 5 channels driven, your smacking a top end of 25 watts, with 8 ohm speakers.
    7 channels, the auto protection engages so it's pretty much going to be a cupcake for anything over smallish speakers....and only in 5 channel mode.

    That's what people need to know, in plain English. Just sayin'

    Well in all fairness, most of the 5 channels never run full range. Usually a subwoofer is used and that changes things drastically as far as power goes.

    We have one set up where we tried one of our cheap Yamaha AVR's, and running 2 Lsi15's it was quite capable.

    Our separate amp did better for sure, but not "That" much better if that makes sense.

    Not the ultimate in high power, but frankly, was much better than we were expecting.

    When running a sub, below 100hz, the output with 2 speakers is more than enough for most levels we would ever use.

    I agree better to have "More power",but at the same time, think AVR's are more capable than they are being given credit for.

    The conclusion I get from your comments is that your separate amp isn't very good to be not much better than a low powered AVR.
  • heiney9heiney9 Posts: 23,352
    edited June 20
    Scale, that's the word everyone should be inquiring about.

    A mere receiver can't reproduce the "scale" of the performance or movie because in most cases it has a puny power supply.

    Everything will play music, but trying to get dynamics and scale you need reserves and well designed gear and cables too, cables matter.

    H9

    P.s. also as you delve futher into the hobby watts really don't matter unless you are trying to achieve high levels of SPL, which is not scale or dynamics, related in the entire equation, but not the same. It's a balancing act and receivers sadly don't cut it for serious audio reproduction.
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 27,215
    BTW...my post wasn't intended to call anyones baby ugly. Just to inform, maybe show what those numbers mean when put into application. I just used the info already posted.

    We always get a lot of questions about receivers and what they can or cannot power. Everything has it's limits for the applications people want to use. Your basic receivers from entry level to mid level from all the major big box store brands have either a 450 watts or 750 watt power supply, give or take a few. There is always exceptions too, like Nad usually under rates their power, unlike the others who exaggerate it.

    A receiver that can't power 8 ohm speakers in 7 channel surround mode, and goes into protection, is a tell tale sign of a weak power supply and one should be careful on the speakers they select to use.

    THAT is what those numbers mean in plain English for people to understand. Not trying to insult anyone's gear or look down on it, just trying to set the record straight on published specs and what they mean for real world applications.
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 7,471
    Back to the OP's new speakers is it will do fine. I was just commenting on the math specs before my post
  • K_MK_M Posts: 794
    tonyb wrote: »
    True, they are not run full range, the difference being in the drastic changes a movie soundtrack has. Those surrounds can be quiet as a church mouse one second, and a cannon shot in the next. Those quick transient responses require reserve power to handle, or that cannon shot sounds like a cap gun. Music is the same way.

    Running in 2 channel mode, you'd probably not have to worry about anything with fairly efficient speakers, but speaking for myself....I wouldn't even consider putting it on a 4 ohm speaker, unless you listen at very low volumes, but then your listening without any real dynamic impact.

    Turning up the volume will put stress on the receiver, introduce distortion....as the specs show, and possibly do a smoke dance around a tweeter or 2. Point is to err on the side of having too much power than you need, not walk the line between too little and possibly doing damage. Make sense ?

    All of what you say, makes sense in theory, but we have actually tried Running 4 ohm speakers as I said, and while theory says not a great idea, it was nowhere near as bad as we imagined is all I am saying.

    FYI, it would play fairly loud and still sounded decent is all. It did get a bit warm for sure, but never distorted or shut down or made the music sound bad.

    What AVR's have you tried this "Torture" test on?
    Are you speaking from actual experience or what you have heard?
  • heiney9heiney9 Posts: 23,352
    edited June 20
    "Decent" doesn't cut it for some of us. That's the other side of the coin you always conveniently miss when you are opining. You assume since it sounds decent to you, it's acceptable to all.............it's not.

    H9

    P.s. once again your viewpoint is the only one that's correct because you keep trying to nail it home. Not all of us accept "decent sounding", we strive and achieve for more. It's Ok to have a decent rig, but don't dismiss others because they want more.
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 27,215
    K_M wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    True, they are not run full range, the difference being in the drastic changes a movie soundtrack has. Those surrounds can be quiet as a church mouse one second, and a cannon shot in the next. Those quick transient responses require reserve power to handle, or that cannon shot sounds like a cap gun. Music is the same way.

    Running in 2 channel mode, you'd probably not have to worry about anything with fairly efficient speakers, but speaking for myself....I wouldn't even consider putting it on a 4 ohm speaker, unless you listen at very low volumes, but then your listening without any real dynamic impact.

    Turning up the volume will put stress on the receiver, introduce distortion....as the specs show, and possibly do a smoke dance around a tweeter or 2. Point is to err on the side of having too much power than you need, not walk the line between too little and possibly doing damage. Make sense ?

    All of what you say, makes sense in theory, but we have actually tried Running 4 ohm speakers as I said, and while theory says not a great idea, it was nowhere near as bad as we imagined is all I am saying.

    FYI, it would play fairly loud and still sounded decent is all. It did get a bit warm for sure, but never distorted or shut down or made the music sound bad.

    What AVR's have you tried this "Torture" test on?
    Are you speaking from actual experience or what you have heard?

    I've tried it on many receivers, like Sony's and Pioneers, granted older. Only I can hear when something is stressed and don't push it or discontinue using it. I don't wait for a driver to go south. I don't call the sound "decent" either, I listen for the signs of stress.
  • K_MK_M Posts: 794
    edited June 20
    tonyb wrote: »
    THAT is what those numbers mean in plain English for people to understand. Not trying to insult anyone's gear or look down on it, just trying to set the record straight on published specs and what they mean for real world applications.

    Makes sense, and I am just trying to set the record straight based on actually having Tried a few AVR's in real world applications and finding, they were not nearly as bad as several have described them to be.

    I agree a separate power amp will be better for sure, that is not the argument.
    I wonder truly if everyone downplaying AVR's has actually sat down and tried a few?

    Or if their comments are based just what they read.
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 7,471
    With my Pioneer and Oinko avrs, I never got full range dynamics. Kids had nearly clipped my speakers playing games and music. People show up here all the time with blown tweeters, and xovers, when they had to much of a good time, turned up the volume and clipped the system.

    It's going to happen to everyone at some time or another, due to lack of understanding.

    Drop some hip-hop or techno on a cheap AVR with some larger speakers, mix in a few beers and a party...poof. I get it, but it happens
  • msgmsg Posts: 2,884
    edited June 20
    Kelly, curious, which Yamaha amp is your cheaper one? I ask so that I can compare it to my own experience. I have a friend who's big into Yamaha as well. He's the one who got me into Polk speakers in the first place.

    I've always noticed improvements with standalone amplification. Even smaller amplifiers, like the Parasound HCA-1000 (125wpc) or a B&K Video 5 (105wpc). The music is fuller, clearer, and more controlled. With AVRs, my experience is that things can get congested, for example, and I've lost stereo nuances.

    Experiencing these types of improvements, I, personally, get spoiled pretty quickly, and I wouldn't want to go back to lesser experiences. That would be a bummer for sure.

    Here's an example.

    I remember trying to run some RTi10s with an entry Pioneer VSX-521k when I first started. That AVR was advertised at 110W x 5. Coming from some older stereo receivers, one only 25wpc in much heavier chassis, I thought, wow, cool! This new receiver is 4 times more powerful!

    How wrong I was. Just sounded so tinny and empty. I had to turn on the Advanced Sound Receiver function (emulation/boost of some sort) to get the speakers anywhere near listenable with any amount of bass and still little to no midrange. That or the top end was just overwhelming everything (speaker design)

    Added a 200wpc B&K amp I found locally (I never get deals, but I did this time)
    PUNCH!
    I did have to run a different preamp, and the speakers still weren't good for music, ultimately, but they performed unquestionably better. Why? That B&K amp specs at 75A peak to peak. The low frequency drivers needed higher current amplification for the impact and control that those speakers are capable of and to produce more balanced sound instead of just vibrating the mid and woofers while the tweeter screamed. And screamed. And Screamed. Control and clarity were improved, while congestion and distortion greatly reduced by lifting the dam gate. The speakers were IMPACTFUL on that amp, just... owned.

    The net effect? I was able to get fuller sound at a more modest listening level without having to crank the volume just to feel like I was getting things moving.

    Higher end AVRs can probably do much better than that little Pioneer I had, and perform acceptably, depending on your speakers, goals and expectations, but for some speakers and enthusiast 2ch enjoyment, AVRs by themselves can't really match external amplification for these kinds of refinements with demanding speakers. And then there are the refinements that a lot of people don't even know about, like imaging and depth; decay. Profound experiences still elude me, but I've had a taste.

    Without an amp can you get sound? Of course.
    Will it be pleasing? Questionable/Subjective, and dependent on your measure and prior exposure. Sometimes I curse ever having found this place, but wouldn't trade the experience and knowledge gained.
    Post edited by msg on
  • DonnerUndBlitzenDonnerUndBlitzen Posts: 855
    edited June 20
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Scale, that's the word everyone should be inquiring about.

    A mere receiver can't reproduce the "scale" of the performance or movie because in most cases it has a puny power supply.

    Everything will play music, but trying to get dynamics and scale you need reserves and well designed gear and cables too, cables matter.

    H9

    P.s. also as you delve futher into the hobby watts really don't matter unless you are trying to achieve high levels of SPL, which is not scale or dynamics, related in the entire equation, but not the same. It's a balancing act and receivers sadly don't cut it for serious audio reproduction.

    This is a one size fits all universal statement that is not true. For example, there are huge differences between the Yamaha low end RX-V line to the top of the line RX-A Aventage 3060 for rms watts, their power supply and dynamic power, etc. Different receivers have "punny" to robust power supplies. Each should be evaluated and stand on their own merits.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,345
    K_M wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    THAT is what those numbers mean in plain English for people to understand. Not trying to insult anyone's gear or look down on it, just trying to set the record straight on published specs and what they mean for real world applications.

    Makes sense, and I am just trying to set the record straight based on actually having Tried a few AVR's in real world applications and finding, they were not nearly as bad as several have described them to be.

    I agree a separate power amp will be better for sure, that is not the argument.
    I wonder truly if everyone downplaying AVR's has actually sat down and tried a few?

    Or if their comments are based just what they read.

    Perhaps the real question here is have you sat down and tried a few high end amps and if so, which ones? I ask for specifics because you're always so vague. You also talk in circles to avoid answering specific questions, so I'm hoping for something different this time.
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