CRS+ RestoMod

xschop
xschop Posts: 5,499
edited May 7 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Again, big thanks to @dkfreebird for dropping these off. I've looked for ages for another set to build. I'll post everything that I do to these here. Will work on these over the summer. Thoroughly listened to them bone-stock last weekend. Goal is to get them sounding as dynamic as the SDA-converted RTA-8TLs, yet WAF friendly.

First question for the hive is what speaker grill cloth is best for sound transparency in white?
I'm going to strip and shoot the cabs white with all 100% machined brass parts and fasteners.
Thanks as always.

Already started the grill frame update...

5xnh6m6v1km2.jpg
dg75vs2qgs9b.jpg
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qbc28ufuoz1m.jpg






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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 52,062
    Didn't even let the primer dry before snapping the pic...lol

    That's a good primer.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    Will test a satin vs. flat white paint....Honorable mention goes to KSM.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    edited May 7
    1.25" solid oak dowel
    cross-cut 8 3/16" offset either side puts it angled and centered between front and back weak points...

    9zxywpl486ov.jpg
    nfwnhhz65odp.jpg
    2yxlfltg5ju0.jpg

    This clears all drivers and factory crossover.
    Reason why I cannot use the larger point to point board....

    rwrxjy267svf.jpg

    Power Grab time.




    Post edited by xschop on
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,592
    Something like this would still fit

    9j992ad4vxk2.jpg
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,542
    VR3 wrote: »
    Something like this would still fit

    9j992ad4vxk2.jpg

    That's awesome, problem solved.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,592
    Yes, the inductor fits where the old crossover fit
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,542
    VR3 wrote: »
    Yes, the inductor fits where the old crossover fit

    You are definitely creative and meticulous.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    Very nice. I'll machine an adapter that mounts the Erse Super Q/factory X-over in factory location as well, mounting with 1 bolt. All other hardware will be machined solid brass, including the terminal plates, tweeter plates, and custom grill pegs.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,592
    edited May 7
    Thanks for the kind words :)

    really need to get the big sda inductor far away from the smaller ones for best performance
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 18,242
    VR3 wrote: »
    Thanks for the kind words :)

    really need to get the big sda inductor far away from the smaller ones for best performance

    Yet Polk put it directly behind the crossover board.

    I’m not disagreeing with you..
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  • HzTweaker
    HzTweaker Posts: 1,056
    I thought as long as they were in different orientations you'd be in the clear?
    2ch rig: Speakers: Magnepan LRS w/Magna Riser stands Preamplifier: Parasound P5 Amplifier: Parasound A23 CDP: Pioneer DV-563A Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB, AudioQuest Q2s, AudioQuest NRG X(preamp)

    Standby: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress mods
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,448
    edited May 8
    Correct me if I'm wrong.
    The big C-coil or laminated Erse are different critters than the original bobbin type Polk used behind the XO.
    As far as the field they produce.
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 70
    xschop wrote: »
    1.25" solid oak dowel
    cross-cut 8 3/16" offset either side puts it angled and centered between front and back weak points...

    9zxywpl486ov.jpg
    nfwnhhz65odp.jpg
    2yxlfltg5ju0.jpg

    This clears all drivers and factory crossover.
    Reason why I cannot use the larger point to point board....

    rwrxjy267svf.jpg

    Power Grab time.

    What is the angle you cut this at? Definitely following along with your build.



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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,592
    Lol I'm far from the inductor police but pools handling of the large sda inductor was... Maybe not the best.

    Mounted right behind the small inductors and mounted directly to aluminum on the big boys.

    An inductor mounted directly to aluminum will decrease in value by over 10%
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,448
    An inductor mounted directly to aluminum will decrease in value by over 10%
    Good info!
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    Grabber70Mach wrote: »
    xschop wrote: »
    1.25" solid oak dowel
    cross-cut 8 3/16" offset either side puts it angled and centered between front and back weak points...

    9zxywpl486ov.jpg
    nfwnhhz65odp.jpg
    2yxlfltg5ju0.jpg

    This clears all drivers and factory crossover.
    Reason why I cannot use the larger point to point board....

    rwrxjy267svf.jpg

    Power Grab time.

    What is the angle you cut this at? Definitely following along with your build.



    On it's side view it is a parallelogram with each long side 8 and 3/16" long.
    I started with a 8.5" length then gradually cut each end til it fit snug.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    edited May 8
    I rasped on it this morning. (Pug Master need not comment) Rock solid now. This will translate to much improved midbass.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    No need to denigrate these further other than the factory wiring terminals were ready to short and cause havoc....

    yc80at2fuiuv.jpg
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    edited May 9
    Had a couple hours to work on them today.
    Love that toasty vinyl smell. The front fascia was slightly peeling up around the drivers. Front baffle was actually congruent around perimeter although inset about 1/16". Filled seams with Gorilla Glue and driver recesses to aid in gasket sealing. Will shoot interior with rubberized paint.
    I'll leave the rear fascia on until after I take an aggressive grit belt sander to rear edges....

    lm5q7vl1odjx.jpg

    do2vm63umkff.jpg

    kc5yb92zk83h.jpg


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  • JayMX
    JayMX Posts: 461
    edited May 9
    I love that you’re doing this build. I mostly finished mine and have been absolutely loving them with your tweeter plates and the 198’s. You’re gonna be in heaven. I have been lax posting my build thread - will do it once I complete the Dreadnaught.

    I must say, the @VR3 crossovers are amazing in build quality and sound quality and they mounted up great in the bottoms of my CRS+ cabinets. I used some 10/32 tapered head bolts with Aileen’s to seal from the outside and neoprene washers between the standoffs and the crossovers’ substrates to isolate and seal the cabinets further. Everything is cinched together and secured with nylock nuts. They’ll never vibrate loose and they’re airtight. I used the same method for mounting the inductors. The screw heads ARE visible, but they’re on the bottoms and backs of the cabinets…. So, you don’t see them unless you go looking. 🤷🏻‍♂️

    I also built internal frame systems (glued in with liquid nails) which greatly stiffened the fronts and tops of the cabinets. They brace front to rear top to bottom. Only the back didn’t get a brace but it’s tough to do with the PR opening eating up most of the back of the cabinet. The frames also run lengthwise along the tops of the cabinets, each frame structure has four hurricane nuts installed so I can add some BH5 on 1/4” mdf plates behind the MW’s. I haven’t done this yet…. but one of these days I’ll get it done. Life has been busy lately. 😅

    Needless to say these are the best speakers I’ve owned to date. Mindblowingly good on my Bryston 4B. Me love them long time. 😎

    cpwppw2gag7u.jpeg

    pbb4y55be334.jpeg

    8yoje83pf54m.jpeg

    d28359dbg6tz.jpeg

    I flipped the crossover orientation after initial mockups to place the inductors as far away from the voicecoils as I could.

    r8m595r6721k.jpeg
    0po1szlmsdug.jpeg
    irker46on0is.jpeg
    kosclgitq4xd.jpeg

    Your tweeter plates with Tre’s pads looking and sounding s e x y together!!
    mohdshsix2fi.jpeg

    Veneeered the over the original oak cabinets with mahogany. Very happy with how they turned out. 🤩
    o804f5pn756i.jpeg

    Current Collection: Monitor 4a (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7b (Peerless), RTA15TL (SL3000), Full mod SDA CRS 4.1TL (198’s), SDA SRS 2.3TL (198’s), R100's, R200’s, R300 🤩
    Pairs that have passed through: Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 5B (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 5b (SL2000) (4x pair), Monitor 7b (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7c’s (194’s), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10b (5x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, RTA 11T, RTA12c (194's), SDA1(mod to “a” & SL1000 Wuhan mod), SDA CRS, SDA 2 (2x pair), SDA 2a, SDA 2b, SDA 1b, SDA 1c, SDA SRS 2 (2x pair), SDA SRS 3.1TL (198’s) (2x pair)...and more to come, it’s a sickness.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    edited May 9
    We need a BADASS button B)

    I will be doing every mod to date on these drivers. Think I will err on side of caution and add focus rings to all the MWs instead of electroplating their pole pieces with copper. I'll test run an electroplated MW6502 soon and see if it exhibits the same behavior as the focus rings.

    I will also drill the MW pole pieces of 6510s and 6511's for an 1/8" punch to quickly try a different/shorter phase plug shape if I hear any anomoly.

    The 198s are already done, focus rings and back-chambered. Will make brass bezels soon too...
    Mesmerizing detail having just tested out in the XS-8TLs.

    k3dl8rhpfntp.jpg
    h41jx2zcvzjv.jpg



    These drivers in this set are actually not as worn as many I have come across, so I'm hopeful.

    I can also say that bone-stock, the factory inner curvature of the grill frames do help them "disappear" better.
    Post edited by xschop on
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 18,242
    JayMX wrote: »
    I love that you’re doing this build. I mostly finished mine and have been absolutely loving them with your tweeter plates and the 198’s. You’re gonna be in heaven. I have been lax posting my build thread - will do it once I complete the Dreadnaught.

    I must say, the @VR3 crossovers are amazing in build quality and sound quality and they mounted up great in the bottoms of my CRS+ cabinets. I used some 10/32 tapered head bolts with Aileen’s to seal from the outside and neoprene washers between the standoffs and the crossovers’ substrates to isolate and seal the cabinets further. Everything is cinched together and secured with nylock nuts. They’ll never vibrate loose and they’re airtight. I used the same method for mounting the inductors. The screw heads ARE visible, but they’re on the bottoms and backs of the cabinets…. So, you don’t see them unless you go looking. 🤷🏻‍♂️

    I also built internal frame systems (glued in with liquid nails) which greatly stiffened the fronts and tops of the cabinets. They brace front to rear top to bottom. Only the back didn’t get a brace but it’s tough to do with the PR opening eating up most of the back of the cabinet. The frames also run lengthwise along the tops of the cabinets, each frame structure has four hurricane nuts installed so I can add some BH5 on 1/4” mdf plates behind the MW’s. I haven’t done this yet…. but one of these days I’ll get it done. Life has been busy lately. 😅

    Needless to say these are the best speakers I’ve owned to date. Mindblowingly good on my Bryston 4B. Me love them long time. 😎

    cpwppw2gag7u.jpeg

    pbb4y55be334.jpeg

    8yoje83pf54m.jpeg

    d28359dbg6tz.jpeg

    I flipped the crossover orientation after initial mockups to place the inductors as far away from the voicecoils as I could.

    r8m595r6721k.jpeg
    0po1szlmsdug.jpeg
    irker46on0is.jpeg
    kosclgitq4xd.jpeg

    Your tweeter plates with Tre’s pads looking and sounding s e x y together!!
    mohdshsix2fi.jpeg

    Veneeered the over the original oak cabinets with mahogany. Very happy with how they turned out. 🤩
    o804f5pn756i.jpeg

    Nice Work!!!! Love It!!

    3r1r3nu4m51j.gif
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  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,391
    That Polk and Bryston has to be a great match. I'm sitting here with some of those modifications myself.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    edited May 10
    With the Power Grab set, I'm able to pick up the enclosure by the dowel and it's taken up minimum cab volume....


    vr679205i8h8.png
    Post edited by xschop on
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    Revising previous CRS+ Driver mod....

    4ea needed.....

    6cg57xi6ruf1.png
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    edited May 11
    Collecting more solid brass parts...
    Grill pins will be machined to dia. 0.430 full 0.9" length and glued to factory locations with 0.45" showing.

    4lmwtwgn6hpq.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    gqybwjaevihu.png
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    Think I've settled on the final aesthetic.
    Matte brass drivers with antique white cabinets along with black oxide and matte brass fasteners for contrast...

    Flat white is a second option, but satin white is too much...

    hu3t7amwvm20.jpg









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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,592
    I dig it

    Go magnetic grills to really go all out 😁
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,499
    edited May 12
    Are the factory Polk logos cast tin with brass color plating?
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