Anyone own a Krell 2250 or 3250?

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CH46E
CH46E Posts: 3,566
edited February 25 in 2 Channel Audio
I just purchased one off Reverb. Should have it in 5 to 6 days. A 3250 that is. I read great reviews.
I got it in part for being stable to 2 ohms for my unfinished infinity RSII. Right now Im running my recapped RTA12Bs. Im hoping for a good bump experience. I will start with my Yamaha Aventage HTR as a pre. Then move over to my Anthem (Sonic Frontier's) tube Pre2L. Was recently serviced .
I honestly think if I don't get a hair raising experience I'll sell everything and buy a sound bar. 😂

I sold my Hafler XL600 local for a fair price.

Just curious if anyone has experience with the Krell 2250 or 3250 amps.
«13456

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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,280
    edited February 25
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    I would probably skip the avr as a preamp, I used a marantz sr7007 for a preamp with my krell ksa 300s and it didn't even last a whole song, way too bright. I would use the sonic frontier's to start with. I use a tube pre with my krell, it gives you great detail without the brightness.
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,111
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    Second that… my experience with Krell is that they tend to be hyper detailed, but also lean towards the brighter side of things. Definitely get some tubes in the mix asap.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
    edited February 26
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    When my pre amp was serviced he stated the RCA inputs and out puts were not a standard size. And he was unable to replace them. It made sense to me because all my cables (AQ, Monster, Emotiva and mono price cables fit loose. I was thinking about getting some thin jewelry grade 14 or 24k gold fine wire and hammering it down to thin pieces and placing it around the RCA fittings. Or is there another way I could remedy this issue? I'll use de-ox-it gold on everything prior. I'm not sure I want to open up and play with the fittings in my AQ RCA cables.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    Also, I'm guessing the top of the case (that looks like it's a separate and easily removed) has some cosmetic issues. Like the metal all looks straight and I thinks it's anodized black aluminum. Can y'all recommend a fix for this? I was going to look into any local anodizing places to see what they can offer. This amp will be on its own shelf with nothing on top so it's going to show badly.
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,280
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    I don't understand why he couldn't replace the RCA connectors on the preamp
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,067
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    Yeah makes no sense

    Does he own a drill
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    invalid wrote: »
    I don't understand why he couldn't replace the RCA connectors on the preamp

    He said something about how there were made. 4 wires each and he could not even find the rights ones or something like this.



    Here is a pic of the damage I need fixed on the amp.

    t6ebslcbvvrp.png
    jfcd6x2t9jwb.png
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,280
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    Does that preamp have HT bypass, it could be the reason for the 4 wires.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,067
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    The number of wires shouldn't matter. A rca jack only has 2 potential conductors to my knowledge. You could connect as many wires as you want to those conductors
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • newbie308
    newbie308 Posts: 675
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    You can try this:
    Birchwood Casey Fast-Drying Fast-Acting Aluminum Black Metal Finish for Restoring Scratched and Marred Areas, Gun Cleaning https://a.co/d/gZyvupN

    Or a black sharpie...

    I'd monitor the auction sites for a parts amp and swap that cover with a good one.

    Sources: Technics SL1200MKII | SME3009 Tonearm | Monster Alpha 1 MC cartridge | Oppo UDP203 disk player | Nikko NT-790 analog tuner | Musical Fidelity Trivista 21 DAC | Preamp: Threshold SL-10 | Amplifier: Threshold Stasis 2 | Speakers: Snell Acoustics C/V | Kimber 12-TC bi wire speakers | Analysis plus Oval 1 preamp to amp | Wireworld Eclipse 7 DAC to Preamp | Wireworld eclipse digital IC Oppo to DAC | Audioquest Quartz tuner to preamp |
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,067
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    Strip the paint and take it to your local powder coater. They would probably do it for 50 dollars
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • JayCee
    JayCee Posts: 1,480
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    CH46E wrote: »
    When my pre amp was serviced he stated the RCA inputs and out puts were not a standard size. And he was unable to replace them. It made sense to me because all my cables (AQ, Monster, Emotiva and mono price cables fit loose. I was thinking about getting some thin jewelry grade 14 or 24k gold fine wire and hammering it down to thin pieces and placing it around the RCA fittings. Or is there another way I could remedy this issue? I'll use de-ox-it gold on everything prior. I'm not sure I want to open up and play with the fittings in my AQ RCA cables.

    Maybe I missed it? What was the outcome that required the 2L's repair? Interesting...I used BlueJeans Cables and MIT's (Shotgun series) on the Anthem and don't recall having problems w/connector fit. It was primarily used w/a Parasound HCA-1500A and Sunfire 300/2. First I've read of this on the 2L. The MIT's have a grip collar that tighten...so, that's probably why. Don't have any BJC's in front of me but, as a I recall, they are a fixed diameter. I'd reach out to Chris Johnson @ Parts Connexion to see if he has any suggestions or mods.

    Don't have experience w/Krell gear but agree w/other comments above that the Anthem and tube rolling would be the combo to go w/if the Krell's a bit aggressive. From memory...you picked up a pair of the National Panasonic tubes? I have a few pairs for my BHK and would be my recommendation as a starting point if you do.
    Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,353
    edited February 26
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    You speak of the Pre2L RCA's? Aren't they PCB mount on a vertical board at rear? They have multiple mounting pins out the rear of RCA block instead of the typical horizontal board, right-angle mount.

    Like this...

    ggllmvpz4zhl.jpg
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    invalid wrote: »
    Does that preamp have HT bypass, it could be the reason for the 4 wires.

    Not sure. I'll have to take a look when I get home. Thanks though!!! I would have never thought of that.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    newbie308 wrote: »
    You can try this:
    Birchwood Casey Fast-Drying Fast-Acting Aluminum Black Metal Finish for Restoring Scratched and Marred Areas, Gun Cleaning https://a.co/d/gZyvupN

    Or a black sharpie...

    I'd monitor the auction sites for a parts amp and swap that cover with a good one.

    Thanks! I called and left a message with Krell asking if they have any parts available. Waiting to hear back.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    JayCee wrote: »
    CH46E wrote: »
    When my pre amp was serviced he stated the RCA inputs and out puts were not a standard size. And he was unable to replace them. It made sense to me because all my cables (AQ, Monster, Emotiva and mono price cables fit loose. I was thinking about getting some thin jewelry grade 14 or 24k gold fine wire and hammering it down to thin pieces and placing it around the RCA fittings. Or is there another way I could remedy this issue? I'll use de-ox-it gold on everything prior. I'm not sure I want to open up and play with the fittings in my AQ RCA cables.

    Maybe I missed it? What was the outcome that required the 2L's repair? Interesting...I used BlueJeans Cables and MIT's (Shotgun series) on the Anthem and don't recall having problems w/connector fit. It was primarily used w/a Parasound HCA-1500A and Sunfire 300/2. First I've read of this on the 2L. The MIT's have a grip collar that tighten...so, that's probably why. Don't have any BJC's in front of me but, as a I recall, they are a fixed diameter. I'd reach out to Chris Johnson @ Parts Connexion to see if he has any suggestions or mods.

    Don't have experience w/Krell gear but agree w/other comments above that the Anthem and tube rolling would be the combo to go w/if the Krell's a bit aggressive. From memory...you picked up a pair of the National Panasonic tubes? I have a few pairs for my BHK and would be my recommendation as a starting point if you do.

    I've not played with it too much since getting it back since I soldy last amp. Waiting for the Krell to arrive. But I'll play with it a bit tomorrow. I took my rcs cables and shot some detox it in then and let them sit for the day. I looked at the AQ Columbia cables I have. They look like a nightmare to take apart. 🤔.


    And I do recall seeing the RCA on the anthem mounted directly to the PCB board and there are 4 solder points iirc. Like a circle and then the 4 points like a cross.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    Should I be concerned that UPS says the package weight is 30 lbs? This amp is supposed to weight 68 lbs.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,067
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    Assuming it's the right amp, no they will just send him a bill later
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,604
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    VR3 wrote: »
    Assuming it's the right amp, no they will just send him a bill later

    They'll also access a penalty most times.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,067
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    If he's a frequent offender for sure
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • mrbigbluelight
    Options
    Might be the "30" is in "kg".
    That would be a little over 66 lbs, the ballpark weight of the amp
    UPS might be talking Canadian instead of American.
    🤔
    Sal Palooza
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    Might be the "30" is in "kg".
    That would be a little over 66 lbs, the ballpark weight of the amp
    UPS might be talking Canadian instead of American.
    🤔

    Nah, if definitely says 30 lbs.

    But thanks for the responses! Everyone.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    Can anyone tell me what this plug is called? Like the terminology I'd need to search to find a suitable power cord before it arrives.

    Thank you!!
    9kh7o7dam8ej.png
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,353
    edited March 2
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    That is an IEC C20 amp male IEC. You need an IEC C19 female cable with the NEMA 5-15P style wall plug. Sometimes the C19 cable will have a NEMA 5-20P plug so make sure you see both ends before ordering.


    g790yn2ydcan.jpg

    This is example of C19 with NEMA 5-20P. Notice one male blade horizontal, other vertical. This is for 20amp wall outlet.

    wt06r835smph.png
    mm2ffzzy90wb.png


    If you have standard duplex outlets, this is the one you want.

    1esaqobgyt1s.png
    5b1a4ruge8um.png


    Post edited by SCompRacer on
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    SCompRacer wrote: »
    That is an IEC C20 amp male IEC. You need an IEC C19 female cable with the NEMA 5-15P style wall plug. Sometimes the C19 cable will have a NEMA 5-20P plug so make sure you see both ends before ordering.


    g790yn2ydcan.jpg

    This is example of C19 with NEMA 5-20P. Notice one male blade horizontal, other vertical.

    wt06r835smph.png

    If you have standard duplex outlets, this is the one you want.

    1esaqobgyt1s.png


    Yes I did notice. Thanks! Seems like anything I find c19 and 12awg it has the slanted male plug. I guess that's because they are rated for 20amp. I am planning to run from my power box to the wall my equipment is on a 10 awg line. Will plug my power conditioner and the Krell into it. The Krell will go directly to the wall bypassing the power conditioner.

    Guess I'll keep looking for a 12 gauge normal us plug with C19.
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,353
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    What's the 3250 rated at current wise? My Krell KSA-250 pulls ~12 amps at idle. It's on a 20-amp circuit.

    m67soufinqkv.jpg
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    I'm thinking about this route.

    Viborg VF523 Audiophile Power Connector IEC C19 Pure Red Copper 20A Female Power Plug for 8MM Cable Wire (VF523, Pure Copper) https://a.co/d/iVWKNAa
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    SCompRacer wrote: »
    What's the 3250 rated at current wise? My Krell KSA-250 pulls ~12 amps at idle. It's on a 20-amp circuit.

    m67soufinqkv.jpg

    I'm not sure yet. I'll keep looking. I do see power consumption but it's in watts. It has a 2KW toroidal transformer. And I did notice the amp uses a 12 amp fuse on each channel. So I'm just assuming it's designed to be ran on a 15 amp home plug. So id guess somewhere south of 15 amp.

    Should I just use a 14 awg standard c19 cable rated at 15 Amps? Or just build my own power cable using the plug in the last post? I have a spool of 10 awg insulated copper wire I could use. For the panel to outlet I'll run a new 15 or 20 amp breaker and 10 awg Romex. I can very easily run a new line at my place.
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,566
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    SCompRacer wrote: »
    What's the 3250 rated at current wise? My Krell KSA-250 pulls ~12 amps at idle. It's on a 20-amp circuit.

    m67soufinqkv.jpg

    I did see some BTU ratings on some Krell amps. 😂. Some of them were higher than a space heater!