Anyone own a Krell 2250 or 3250?
Comments
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Chris are you switching the RCA input because they are slightly small and do not grab your cables?
My King Cobra and Diamond back seem to grab ok. But the Columbia with DBS are way to loose. I don't know what to do. Just brought home some new speakers I've been wanting since they came out and I'm not impressed at all. Sheesh. -
Meh.... Is all I can say at the moment.
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Chris are you switching the RCA input because they are slightly small and do not grab your cables?
My King Cobra and Diamond back seem to grab ok. But the Columbia with DBS are way to loose. I don't know what to do. Just brought home some new speakers I've been wanting since they came out and I'm not impressed at all. Sheesh.
Most of my audioquest interconnects have been real easy to tighten the grip by taking off the outer barrel then squeezing the inner part tighter or wedging small jeweler flat blade screwdriver (gasp) between the inner and outer ends. The Columbia ends pretty sure are way different and better than the lower models you listed. PM me a picture of the end of the Columbia if you think about it. -
That's a bummer about the new bookies, Chris. It may be that they haven't been played in a while and need to loosen up a bit. You would have to be the judge about that though.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Seems like my DVD-Audio and SACDs are extremely bright and ear piercing. I put on Maxwell Embrya (regular CD) and I love it. Butter baby! Also I'm thinking the OEM tubes are better than the 7dj8 Japanese Nationals. Seems the clarity in the fine details is better.
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The new 6922s will be here Tuesday from Upscale.
I will say the bass is pretty remarkable with these JBL S38. But on SACD and dvd audio the mids are muddy and the highs are like smashed together plate of spaghetti 🍝. Lacks definition.
I think I'm going to throw some (currently on sale) Duelund Capacitors Coherent Audio caps into my JBL L1s. I've seen some guys modify the crossover point with the caps. I was just thinking of R&R value for value. Any suggestions before I try this? -
That's a bummer about the new bookies, Chris. It may be that they haven't been played in a while and need to loosen up a bit. You would have to be the judge about that though.
Tom
The seller did say they have been in the closet for 6 years. Maybe the caps are dry? I mean they don't sound like garbage. But.... Man, I don't even know what anymore. Lol. I guess when I hear what I'm looking for I'll be happy. -
What I really need to do is finish the Infinity RSII.
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The seller did say they have been in the closet for 6 years.
IME, they have to be broken in again. Even my Tylers (which were 20 years old and in storage for a while) needed to be fully broken in again. Speakers are kind of like the human body. Don't use something for years? It takes a while to flex right again. Takes a bit longer to rebuild the muscles needed to perform to the best of their ability.
If I were in your shoes, I would give it about 100-150 hours of constant play and then revisit your evaluation at that point as to which direction you would want to go. IMO/E
Tom
~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
The seller did say they have been in the closet for 6 years.
IME, they have to be broken in again. Even my Tylers (which were 20 years old and in storage for a while) needed to be fully broken in again. Speakers are kind of like the human body. Don't use something for years? It takes a while to flex right again. Takes a bit longer to rebuild the muscles needed to perform to the best of their ability.
If I were in your shoes, I would give it about 100-150 hours of constant play and then revisit your evaluation at that point as to which direction you would want to go. IMO/E
Tom
I've been running them hard since I got home. I'll leave them streaming Pandora tomorrow for my boy Varick. My dog. I usually leave music for him all day while me and the misses at work. I'll give them a few days. -
If you look at the old Stereophile review, they mention that the JBLs are notably brighter than the Paradigm Studio 20s.
In the measurements, there is a rising trend from 3KHz to 10KHz resulting in a 3ish db bump.
https://www.stereophile.com/standloudspeakers/365/index.htmlAlon Petite / Infinity 1.2S / Coda Continuum / Counterpoint SA5000 / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts -
What if your dog doesn't like the music, or if he gets listening fatigue and wants to turn it down?I disabled signatures.
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Just my opinion
Tweeters and mids to the inside
Mess with toe in
They need to be lower
Get them away from the back wall
All around not the best placement- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
What if your dog doesn't like the music, or if he gets listening fatigue and wants to turn it down?
It's pretty low volume just from the Polk LSIM 706C. What's not to like about John Cougar Melencamp radio on Pandora? -
If you look at the old Stereophile review, they mention that the JBLs are notably brighter than the Paradigm Studio 20s.
In the measurements, there is a rising trend from 3KHz to 10KHz resulting in a 3ish db bump.
https://www.stereophile.com/standloudspeakers/365/index.html
I did have the Paradigm Studio 20s. Wish I kept them but they were the icing on the cake for the trade deal I did for my Infinity RSIIs. -
Oh, and I put the National tubes (7dj8) back in. The left channel is low on start up until I bump the volume a hair. Then it's fine. But I noticed they pick up EVERYTHING. I can hear if I touch the volume knob when the volume is all the way down. If I tap the pre amp case it comes through the speakers. If my cell phone is anywhere inside of 10ft of the pre amp it buzzes. So m guessing this is what called "Microphonics"? I'm learning.
And I still think the OEM tubes are better. My new 6922s will be here tomorrow. 😁
Are these tubes useful in say a buffer stage or are they pretty much trash. I would not feel comfortable selling them to anyone with problems. I guess I could try to isolate if it's maybe just 1 of the 4 are bad. Then find a suitable (same) replacement then sell them as a set. -
Whew, glad to hear you're not blasting the cool little dude all day.I disabled signatures. -
Whew, glad to hear you're not blasting the cool little dude all day.
Nah, I love my dog. I sleep much better with him around. 😊 -
Just my opinion
Tweeters and mids to the inside
Mess with toe in
They need to be lower
Get them away from the back wall
All around not the best placement
I did turn them around as you suggested. Have not listen much yet but just watching some net flix last night..... Them vocals are dead center. I had to double check the TV speakers were off. I conet the TV via Bluetooth to the ifi Blue Zen. Then to the pre amp. -
Got these today. Looks like they are all close in values. Should the one the is different from the other 3 be placed in the front end or back end? I have two V1 spots side by side then two V2 spots side by side behind the V1s. -
Probably the v2 position which is probably a cathode follower, but it shouldn't make much difference you bought them from someone reputable.
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Assuming that V1 is the amplifier and V2 is the cathode follower, I would stick the better 2 in V1.
What setting are the gain settings on?Alon Petite / Infinity 1.2S / Coda Continuum / Counterpoint SA5000 / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts -
Assuming that V1 is the amplifier and V2 is the cathode follower, I would stick the better 2 in V1.
What setting are the gain settings on?
The highest. I think 24db. Should I pull that back? I think it has 8, 12 and 24.
I just now put it in the middle. Looks like 16db. 24 was the highest. And 8 the lowest.Post edited by CH46E on -
I'm 100% convinced you should never use Elton John's YBR on SACD to demo a system. It sounds so anemic. After playing with the systems a few days, XLR jumpers, cleaning rcas, new tubes I put the SACD back in. Horrible man. This is a terrible recording. There is almost no bass at all.
Everything else I play sounds better. Regular CDs and Bluetooth from YouTube even. Full bodied and easier on the ears. -
Got these today. Looks like they are all close in values. Should the one the is different from the other 3 be placed in the front end or back end? I have two V1 spots side by side then two V2 spots side by side behind the V1s.
There will be no audible differences in these tubes. Use them however you want. Most people can't discern a 20% variance in tube measurements. Of course it's always best to get as closely matched as you can, but IMO, people obsess on insisting on perfectly matched tubes and they will pay an exorbitant amount of $$$ or pass on a stellar pair of tubes because they aren't perfectly matched.
YMMV
Good listening
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Got these today. Looks like they are all close in values. Should the one the is different from the other 3 be placed in the front end or back end? I have two V1 spots side by side then two V2 spots side by side behind the V1s.
There will be no audible differences in these tubes. Use them however you want. Most people can't discern a 20% variance in tube measurements. Of course it's always best to get as closely matched as you can, but IMO, people obsess on insisting on perfectly matched tubes and they will pay an exorbitant amount of $$$ or pass on a stellar pair of tubes because they aren't perfectly matched.
YMMV
Good listening
H9
What's to say they even stay perfectly matched. -
Got these today. Looks like they are all close in values. Should the one the is different from the other 3 be placed in the front end or back end? I have two V1 spots side by side then two V2 spots side by side behind the V1s.
There will be no audible differences in these tubes. Use them however you want. Most people can't discern a 20% variance in tube measurements. Of course it's always best to get as closely matched as you can, but IMO, people obsess on insisting on perfectly matched tubes and they will pay an exorbitant amount of $$$ or pass on a stellar pair of tubes because they aren't perfectly matched.
YMMV
Good listening
H9
I don't know much about tubes at all. I do appreciate the info.
I've got a little over 24 hours of play on the new tubes. I do find the top end much more enjoyable. -
Assuming that V1 is the amplifier and V2 is the cathode follower, I would stick the better 2 in V1.
What setting are the gain settings on?
The highest. I think 24db. Should I pull that back? I think it has 8, 12 and 24.
I just now put it in the middle. Looks like 16db. 24 was the highest. And 8 the lowest.
Use the lowest setting you can get away with. Less gain = less noise. Also, you probably want to have your normal listening level be somewhere above 9 o'clock on the volume control.
Alon Petite / Infinity 1.2S / Coda Continuum / Counterpoint SA5000 / Oppo BDP-105D / Technics SP-15 w/SAEC WE-308SX & Ortofon AS-309 arms / Ikeda 9C2 & Dynavector XX2 Mk II carts -
Close matching is important when you have an amp with two output tubes per channel in push pull with a shared bias arrangement. For instance, a quad of output tubes, two per channel, shares the same bias voltage supply with a balance pot between each channels two tubes. If tubes are not closely matched, you won't be able to bias them properly.
I've run into this with tube amps with shared bias that had a couple bad tubes. You put some new/used spares in to get it going but cannot bias each tube to proper mA spec.
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