Fellas, ya' gotta try this. Cheap and effective way to extract more out of your system!

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,883
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    VR3 wrote: »
    The kw750 at peak output can draw 22 amps, just saying

    There are also many amps that require 30 amp circuits

    Yep, mine can draw 19.5 amps. It's on a 30 amp circuit.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,211
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Here's the back of a 45 yr old or so duplex outlet and the wires I pulled out of it, in a bathroom where they were using a hand hair dryer on a daily basis. They had no clue there was a problem. Do you think they would've heard a problem if this was supplying an amplifier in a high resolution audio system, and it was then replaced with a brand new hospital grade outlet? Do you think the contacts inside an old circuit breaker could oxidize like this, possibly?

    Those spring stab backs were known to cause fires from the spring loosing tension from heat build up, they then would arc which as you can plainly see that one was on its way. NEVER USE THOSE!!
    My father used those when he built the house I now own in 1989. Over the years while he was alive I'd get a call to come fix an outlet or switch because they were sparking. He was the cheapest SOB, he spent a princely sum of .15¢ on the switch and .20¢ on the outlets. For a dime more he could have bought a much superior switch and outlet. First thing I did when I moved in to take care of my mother was change out every outlet and switch. Trust me not one came from the bulk bin on the bottom shelf at the building store. My mother bulked but I told he I'd never be able to sleep at night knowing I could wake up dead. When I showed her some of her melted switches and outlets she was astonished that the house never caught fire.

    Yep ya don't have to tell me. Electricians worth their salt never use them, at least not the ones that only rely on a spring and don't have the screw clamp feature. Anyway, if we had a time machine we could go back and tar and feather whoever did it.

    George / NJ

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  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
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    GlennDog wrote: »
    another thought (for everyone) is the size of the service drop or lateral (electrical feed to the home) . . .

    if it's small diameter, only so much juice can flow thru . . . Dig?

    Will need the power company to run 3/0AWG from the lines, I don't know what the cost is.
  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
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    stangman67 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sure you will buddy. Please invest in good smoke detectors and a large fire extinguisher.

    Seconded. And a fireproof home insurance policy

    Still mind boggling how some people here think I'm going to burn my house down when I do everything up to code. I own a Canadian code book from 2021 (CSA C22.1HB:21).

    Then again... its become apparent many people here do not know what they are talking about.
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,206
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    You keep saying that
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
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    stangman67 wrote: »
    You keep saying that

    You keep being arrogant. Seems you're the deformed banana of the bunch
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,964
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    I have never had an issue back stabbing a switch or outlet, what I have found over the years, is the screw coming loose on a couple switches, and you could tell they were sparking, for the record I did not install them.
    Also I don’t purchase switches or outlets out of the bottom bin either..
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,663
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    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    Well it seems some people can't read and decided to omit the fact I've stated multiple times this is dangerous to do and that I'm putting my 15A back 😂

    Anyhow I did my swap. Popped the 15 out and put the 20 in. I did it hot too (NEVER DO IT HOT). Listened to Time, Great Gig in the Sky, Is There Anybody Out There, Comfortably Numb, Telegraph Road, and Money for Nothing.

    Wire insulation did not rise above room temperature. No electrical fires to be had (because I was only drawing a couple amps of current).

    Put the 15A back in because of code and safety reasons (apparently some people don't seem to grasp this).

    Anyhow, I have my verdict on the breaker swap.

    Based on the facts, and subjective listening, using the highest quality 20A breaker the electrical department at the hardware store I'm employed at sells, there was zero difference in the sound quality of my system, and I was thoroughly disappointed. If it was really that easy to make a huge difference, I'd have loved to have been proven wrong.

    Unfortunately it's simply impossible, and my ears agreed with me.

    Reminder to not deal with electrical stuff unless you know what you're doing, it's dangerous and unforgiving. Most breakers also use the same types of metal now.

    Maybe I should test a GFCI or AFCI 🙃

    Did you clean the copper wire where it is inserted into the new breaker? Devils in the details if you want to try to compare your results with treitz3. Also, you cannot rule out that his breaker may have been higher quality and made better contact to the hot bus and internally than the one you used. Also, his old breaker may have been in a poorer state than your old one.

    Breakers are breakers. If his old one was in worse shape it wouldn't be working properly or he'd notice obvious issues with it. My copper wires were visibly flawless so I didn't clean them.

    You do realize that 'better contact with the hot bus' is probably the most incredible thing I've ever read. If it made better contact, it wouldn't make a difference because it can handle the power throughput required, if it made inferior contact, it'd possibly cause an electrical fire. The way breakers go into the hot bus is a standard.

    If treitz30 posts his breaker make and model, I'd be more than glad to see if mine is higher/equal/worse quality.

    8ibhw854rri6.jpg
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,206
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    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    stangman67 wrote: »
    You keep saying that

    You keep being arrogant. Seems you're the deformed banana of the bunch

    I wouldn’t describe my choice of tone in response to you as arrogant. Uppity maybe, but definitely not arrogant. I’m just smart enough to spot someone who is clearly out of his depth. You keep acting like you know everything about everything you post about and refuse to accept that there are many others here with vast amounts more experience. It’s a real **** attitude to have in life and one that won’t serve you well as you navigate adulthood. And with that, I’m back to observe mode, try not to burn your parent’s house down.
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
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    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    I have never had an issue back stabbing a switch or outlet, what I have found over the years, is the screw coming loose on a couple switches, and you could tell they were sparking, for the record I did not install them.
    Also I don’t purchase switches or outlets out of the bottom bin either..

    Backstabbing an outlet is dangerous. Light switches can be and you shouldn't do it but it's much more dangerous to do it on an outlet.

    Ask any electrician why they're bad. Also just look it up online. It's not a safe thing to do.
  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
    edited October 2023
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    stangman67 wrote: »
    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    stangman67 wrote: »
    You keep saying that

    You keep being arrogant. Seems you're the deformed banana of the bunch

    I wouldn’t describe my choice of tone in response to you as arrogant. Uppity maybe, but definitely not arrogant. I’m just smart enough to spot someone who is clearly out of his depth. You keep acting like you know everything about everything you post about and refuse to accept that there are many others here with vast amounts more experience. It’s a real **** attitude to have in life and one that won’t serve you well as you navigate adulthood. And with that, I’m back to observe mode, try not to burn your parent’s house down.

    It's scary that people like you do electrical work... if you think I don't know what I'm talking about then apparently you don't know basic electrical code, safety, and properties. Read the NEC 1897 code book and work your way up, bud.

    Kinda shocked you're not a troll lol
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,964
    edited October 2023
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    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    I have never had an issue back stabbing a switch or outlet, what I have found over the years, is the screw coming loose on a couple switches, and you could tell they were sparking, for the record I did not install them.
    Also I don’t purchase switches or outlets out of the bottom bin either..

    Backstabbing an outlet is dangerous. Light switches can be and you shouldn't do it but it's much more dangerous to do it on an outlet.

    Ask any electrician why they're bad. Also just look it up online. It's not a safe thing to do.

    Okay, then one has to ask, why are the holes there, and why is it not against code to use them? I have changed out many over the years, and have found them installed both ways, and I never gave it a second thought, I just swapped them out, and moved on, I have never seen anything bad by them being installed like this..
    And honestly the only reason the outlets were ever changed is because we were repainting a room, and the wife would want a different color, and new face plates..
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,294
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    @ChrisD06 you should learn more about amplifiers especially class A and class A/b and how impedance of a speaker changes with frequency. You don't have to listen at concert levels to get voltage drop.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,664
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    Ask any electrician why they're bad. Also just look it up online. It's not a safe thing to do.
    No need to look it up pal, I just explained why it's bad in my response to George.

    @Toolfan66.

    I do not believe the spring back stabbers(Chinese handcuff type)are on the market anymore. Now they do have a new version that actually clamps the wire between copper or brass plates. The same screw that you can wrap the wire around tightens both. Much better than the old spring Chinese handcuffed type.
  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
    edited October 2023
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    invalid wrote: »
    @ChrisD06 you should learn more about amplifiers especially class A and class A/b and how impedance of a speaker changes with frequency. You don't have to listen at concert levels to get voltage drop.

    I have a vague understanding about it, but I'll do some research.

    Even at normal listening levels though, would you really experience a massive spike in current that exceeds 15A from the wall? Especially when your speakers are only using a fraction of that. It seems extremely excessive and wouldn't this all be handled by the capacitors and transformers in the amplifier itself?
  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Ask any electrician why they're bad. Also just look it up online. It's not a safe thing to do.
    No need to look it up pal, I just explained why it's bad in my response to George.

    @Toolfan66.

    I do not believe the spring back stabbers(Chinese handcuff type)are on the market anymore. Now they do have a new version that actually clamps the wire between copper or brass plates. The same screw that you can wrap the wire around tightens both. Much better than the old spring Chinese handcuffed type.

    I missed that. Also they have the Chinese handcuff type ones here in Canada still, but us Canadians are always behind.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,664
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    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Ask any electrician why they're bad. Also just look it up online. It's not a safe thing to do.
    No need to look it up pal, I just explained why it's bad in my response to George.

    @Toolfan66.

    I do not believe the spring back stabbers(Chinese handcuff type)are on the market anymore. Now they do have a new version that actually clamps the wire between copper or brass plates. The same screw that you can wrap the wire around tightens both. Much better than the old spring Chinese handcuffed type.

    I missed that. Also they have the Chinese handcuff type ones here in Canada still, but us Canadians are always behind.

    You should go buy some and use them! On a 30amp feed!!
    Get some!
  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 887
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Ask any electrician why they're bad. Also just look it up online. It's not a safe thing to do.
    No need to look it up pal, I just explained why it's bad in my response to George.

    @Toolfan66.

    I do not believe the spring back stabbers(Chinese handcuff type)are on the market anymore. Now they do have a new version that actually clamps the wire between copper or brass plates. The same screw that you can wrap the wire around tightens both. Much better than the old spring Chinese handcuffed type.

    I missed that. Also they have the Chinese handcuff type ones here in Canada still, but us Canadians are always behind.

    You should go buy some and use them! On a 30amp feed!!
    Get some!

    I only have room for them on a 60 amp 240v feed. Would that work?
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,365
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    Just curious if anyone shares neutrals or are you selfish and keep them for yourself? :D
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,343
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    I was contemplating swapping my breaker for a tried and true fuse bock and inserting a finely polished copper penny. A real solid copper one, not one of those copper plated zinc jobbers.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
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  • GlennDog
    GlennDog Posts: 3,097
    edited October 2023
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    "electricians" double and triple 'em up all the time . . . like there's a doz unused fasteners on that buss bar! . . . . so USE'EM

    We are talking about inside the main electrical panel, right?
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,365
    edited October 2023
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    Are box and pipe fill rules, or just suggestions? Asking for a friend.... :D
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 6,722
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    Hmmmmm . . . no posts for a while.

    Tonight must be a school night.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,749
    edited October 2023
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    Is it possible that the improvement you are hearing is just due to the fact that the old breaker had oxidized contacts that caused an impedance to transient current response? Putting the new one in and also scuffing up the copper wire and removing oxidation from that, minimized that contact resistance.

    Could you give us the make and model# of the breakers, old vs. new?

    Agree. Load centers' bus bars are all different metallurgy as well. Most are plated steel for longevity against the galvanic reaction to the breaker itself, but some have solid copper bus bars. Hearing a sound change in cable switch-out alone, would indicate that switching out load center/breaker materials would do the same, would it not?

    Kudos to @treitz3
    Post edited by xschop on
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,964
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    So I talked to the electrician who has done a bunch of work in our building, and has done a couple things for me in our garage,

    I prefer the wrap around, all will work, but I feel it is better in the long run.

    So I guess I have something to do when I feel board at home.. LOL!!!
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,156
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    When we do full change out at work we require to use the screws and a loop.

    Many years ago we wasted about 3 hours of troubleshooting due to a bad back stab connection and that was that. We also throw away quick connects on lights that you see now, wire nuts and tape
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,749
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    That's just common sense, as the quick-connects have very little conductor-conductor contact junction compared to screw-loop. Should be against code IMO.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,575
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    VR3 wrote: »
    We also throw away quick connects on lights that you see now, wire nuts and tape
    Hey Trey, curious - what does this mean, and what is the alternative? Thanks.

    I disabled signatures.
  • newbie308
    newbie308 Posts: 677
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    If replacing the line breaker is effective, then shouldn't the main breaker be replaced as well? Pull the meter, swap the main and the line breakers, burnish the wires or even use deoxit, and while you are at it install a new hospital grade outlet. I mean, if everything matters, then everything should be addressed, I think.
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