Monitor 5B refresh
shaneybob
Posts: 58
I have a pair of 5B's I bought back in '84 as my first set of speakers in high school along with a Carver 900 receiver (which I still have as well). I posted something back in 2005 
about upgrading the tweeters, but I moved on to other speakers, jobs,homes, etc...and never did it. I've recently downsized my listening room to a smaller 13'x13' space and the little Polks have come back into play. I just want to clarify my thinking.
Replace tweeters with the RDO-0194's.
Upgrade the crossovers with Mills resistors. Add 0.5R to the tweeter resistor and jump the polyfuse.
Upgrade the crossovers with Clarity Cap PX and CSA, or Sonicap Gen 1's.
Probably need to actually use some JB Weld or PC-7 to epoxy the magnets.
Upgrade the internal wiring.
Anything else I should be looking at?
about upgrading the tweeters, but I moved on to other speakers, jobs,homes, etc...and never did it. I've recently downsized my listening room to a smaller 13'x13' space and the little Polks have come back into play. I just want to clarify my thinking.Replace tweeters with the RDO-0194's.
Upgrade the crossovers with Mills resistors. Add 0.5R to the tweeter resistor and jump the polyfuse.
Upgrade the crossovers with Clarity Cap PX and CSA, or Sonicap Gen 1's.
Probably need to actually use some JB Weld or PC-7 to epoxy the magnets.
Upgrade the internal wiring.
Anything else I should be looking at?
Best Answers
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I'd probably tl mod those and use the RDO-198 tweeter.
Dynamat Xtreme (or equiv.) on MW and Passive metal basket exteriors
Armacell Foam on interior of metal basket for MW (great bang for the buck mod not many here have done yet)
@xschop semi-rings behind MW
Blackhole 5 square behind the MW on back interior wall of cabinet
8 screws for Passive with hurricane nuts
More advanced stuff but highly recommended:
Anti Diffraction Wool around tweeter
@xschop phase plug mod for MW
8screw mod for MW
@xschop billet tweeter bezels
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Upgrade the binding posts also.
Answers
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Gardenstater wrote: »I'd probably tl mod those and use the RDO-198 tweeter.
Dynamat Xtreme (or equiv.) on MW and Passive metal basket exteriors
Armacell Foam on interior of metal basket for MW (great bang for the buck mod not many here have done yet)
@xschop semi-rings behind MW
Blackhole 5 square behind the MW on back interior wall of cabinet
8 screws for Passive with hurricane nuts
More advanced stuff but highly recommended:
Anti Diffraction Wool around tweeter
@xschop phase plug mod for MW
8screw mod for MW
@xschop billet tweeter bezels
Thanks. You've given me some other things to research and think about. Appreciate it.
Does xschop have an online shop, or is it just a PM to get prices?
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He doesn't have an online shop that I know of. He has been known to post here when he has a batch of anything for sale. There may or may not be some parts available. PM would be good I'm sure.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Where's a good place to get the Jantzen 000-1640 inductor? I don't own an LCR meter to be able to accurately unwind 0.3mH to the required 0.27mH. On the other hand I'm not sure my hearing is good enough to tell the difference between the 0194 and 1098 tweeter anyway.
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soniccraft, partsconnexion, madisound, hificollective.co.uk, erseaudio, percyaudio, parts-express are the places I usually checkGeorge / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Thanks. Looks like hificollective is the only one that has it. There are several other 0.27mH that differ in awg and resistance compared to the recommended one.
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I love shopping at Hifi Collective.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
How have I not had HiFi Collective in my list of suppliers? Added.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
2 related things: most folks keep the existing inductor (for various reasons)...which means you stick with the RDO-194 (like I did). YMMV.Where's a good place to get the Jantzen 000-1640 inductor? I don't own an LCR meter to be able to accurately unwind 0.3mH to the required 0.27mH. On the other hand I'm not sure my hearing is good enough to tell the difference between the 0194 and 1098 tweeter anyway.Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets -
2 related things: most folks keep the existing inductor (for various reasons)...which means you stick with the RDO-194 (like I did). YMMV.Where's a good place to get the Jantzen 000-1640 inductor? I don't own an LCR meter to be able to accurately unwind 0.3mH to the required 0.27mH. On the other hand I'm not sure my hearing is good enough to tell the difference between the 0194 and 1098 tweeter anyway.
Ah, but for an extra $20 or so per speaker I can go with the RDO-198 tweeters for the TL mod. -
When I had the opportunity, I grabbed a pair of RD0-194 and a pair of RD0-198 not sure if I should TL or not to TL my 5B's. I went with the not-TL for now with upgraded XO parts. I'm wondering how much difference the TL mod would make.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
Stan, there's only one way to find out.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
That's what I figured.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
Besides the MW rings, I can highly recommend Gardenstater's frame basket foam mod while you have them apart. Well worth the effort.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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So, looking at my 5B tweeters today, I thought about replaceing them with the Wuhan SL2000 domes.
I got an old faceplate out and it seemed larger than the opening that's even bigger than the silver plate and it's oversize opening.
Does the SL2000 faceplate really fit in the recessed opening without having to enlarge it? I'm going back out later but just researched it for a while and didn't see where anybody had to carve/chisel the opening anywhere.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
from DarqueKnight's tweeter thread:
SL1000 Dimensions:
4-8/16" W x 3-1/16" H (4.485" W x 3.039" H)
SL2000/RD0194 Dimensions:
4-10/16" W x 3-6/16" H (4.6085" W x3.355" H)
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
That's about what I saw.
The openings were SMALL.Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Maybe the Peerless will fit?Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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Maybe the Peerless will fit?
@benjaminlea took his 7B's from SL1000 back to Peerless and was very happy with the move.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
And I almost bought the 2 Peerless tweeters off of eBay last week.
Now, somebody is selling a set of Monitor 4's 30 miles from me w/Peerless tweeters. They are supposed to work. I think they want 50.00. No grills but I wouldn't care if those Peerless will work.
Would the Monitor 4's Peerless be a match for these Monitor 5Bs?Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
That's a great deal, especially if all the drivers are tip top. I have a pair of MW6500s from a Monitor 4 1983 in my 1979 7B's right now and they are sounding fantastic. I would jump on that if it were near me.
I know that Polk didn't make any changes to the crossover in Benjamin's 7B's when they went from Peerless to SL1000 because his XO was the exact match of mine (without checking inductor values). It would be highly likely the same holds true for the Monitor 5, but who knows?
I still haven't completely cracked the mystery of how there seem to be different versions of Peerless and I think it may have been simply production tweaks made along the way. They are all basically KO10DT Peerless but I have ones with DCR that is around 1 Ohm lower than some others. I don't know for sure what is the significance of the different prefixes 2514, 3514, 5514, 7514.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Well, I just wrote a very long correspondence with a woodworker with a chess board for sale and then I went to look for those Monitor 4's.
They're still for sale I think. I'm going to email them and see how I can get them here.
Thanks for communicating your knowlege and facts to help me.
Going to reply to that ad now.
No response yet...
Post edited by Tony M onMost people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
The 5514 was made in the US. The 7514 was made in Denmark.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I thought so too but I have seen a 5514 with a 1977 date for sale right now on eBay from a Polk 7A and I have also seen 7514 date 1983 with a Made in USA sticker.
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
The Lady says a buyer "Might" show up this weekend to buy them. I think she's going to give this buyer the first responder option and hold them for the person.
I told her I could go to her in an hour. We'll see if she responds. I should've reponded last week when I saw them. This Ladies M4 speakers look so filthy, I hope the guy doesn't show up to buy them.
I actually thought about the 40 minute trip coming home with them to be a nicotine smell nightmare. I just thought I could bring a nice smell infused kitchen trash bag and put them in it and tie it closed.
Maybe it's just open garage dust from years gone by.
I also saw that M7 peerless on eBay and a pair for 100.00 on ebay also.Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Nice! Yeah man. She should not wait for someone who "might" show up and has no obligation to do so hopefully.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Hope you snag those.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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I put the MWoofers back in and they were very laid back sounding. So much so I doubted if the tweeters were working. I turned the treble up on the pre and nothing changed. Yup, thank God it was just the fuses. Pulled some new ones out,( I need to get smaller specked ones) and put them in place.
Now they sounded GREAT.
I had to come in since my Step-daughter just arrived.
My wife handed me some JBL L100 Century grill badges that came in. They don't have pins so I'll just stick them somewhere on the grill.
Any suggestions? Maybe below the woofer in the center? Top right corner where the original tabs were? Top and centered?
I bought these...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175043457704?hash=item28c16732a8:g:lggAAOSw3oRhpUEb&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAoEhT7BpWNqbrhNJi9MxdoJP6XVG12TCtzNPdy974eoBV3jZifuQPcar02WXYBHyn+zHJHH27jPS3L8IMr+QPr3W0Tat+E4BuwgiXyP5t3DiSmKTU/0C1krIS8KiptGlp/p84VvwniNuti/US/SwtL+rEyLrLTPTn+BkC0dUPBUUUGE0cUJlRxM0P+87mXm5lwD6CtSoaXiQph958tzJV/6I=|tkp:Bk9SR6bY9rrAYA
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
So, looking at my 5B tweeters today, I thought about replaceing them with the Wuhan SL2000 domes.
I got an old faceplate out and it seemed larger than the opening that's even bigger than the silver plate and it's oversize opening.
Does the SL2000 faceplate really fit in the recessed opening without having to enlarge it? I'm going back out later but just researched it for a while and didn't see where anybody had to carve/chisel the opening anywhere.
The prudent thing to do is Wuhan the SL1000s. The SL2K plates will stick out too far from baffle even if you trim the top and bottom edges of them.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
