Monitor 5B refresh

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245

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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
    edited July 2022
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    Thanks rob.

    These speakers are sounding so good, I'd only experiment with Peerless IF they fit in the premade recesses or just to get them for spares for my other 2 M10 and RTA12B sets and I can buy them for around 50.00. :) I don't know why I didn't jump on that lady's set when I first saw those M4's. :s

    I have all the router tools and bits to reshape the opening to whatever size I desire. I have the patience (now that I'm doing well neck wise) to design the rig to do that. My neck has been giving me some tention lately though. All the yard work (a lot) and worries over those JBL and ADS grills work I did. I've had a sore throat and sinus issue for a month too. :#

    These SL1000's sound preety darn nice right now. :p I'll keep and eye out for Peerless included Polk speakers on my local sites but there's really not a "need" right now. You should hear these little M5B's. ;)B) They sound just fine as they are. I was expecting a harsh sound. They sound sweet. :)

    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
    edited July 2022
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    Yeah, you should keep the volume down. They're wreaking havoc on your senses.😉

    Don't trade a stiff metal plate for plastic.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
    edited July 2022
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    No plastic for metal...gotcha. ;)

    Should've heard my SDA-SRS2's last night while I organized for an hour or more. :D I started with the 5B's for a little bit.

    I wanted to play them since it's been a few weeks or more. I also wanted to hear their BASS again. Amazing bass. B)
    Post edited by Tony M on
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
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    I just got a pm from the lady.

    The other guy showed up and bought them. :'(
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
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    I bought the 1 AMP fuses and put them in the 5Bs.

    Last night I played the 5B's and they sounded bad. I found out the left speaker's tweeter was not playing.

    The fuse had popped. I didn't play them loud either. I put a new fuse in and turned the 555II amp back on. PIP! I heard the fuse pop.

    Just turning my amp on pops the left speaker's 1 AMP fuse. wth?

    I put the 3 AMP fuse back in and it survives. I organized a lot last night and in doing that, I put the M5B's back up on the shelf because I wanted to hear those 2000P's(?) again. OH h*%l yea! I liked them before and I liked them last night. My neighbors probably heard them.

    I just played the radio stations music because they were playing GREAT songs on a bunch of them. I wanted to come back in BUT I'd scan the stations again and ANOTHER song would have me sitting in amazement of these 2000's abilities.

    Super Powerful and effortless music at any volume comes to mind. B) I wish I had grills for them. :)

    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    So back to the original post since this has taken some detour. I’ve decided to do the TL mod and have the inductors ordered. It’ll take a month or so to get them. I’m going to go Clarity Caps all around. Got a set of rings from xchop. Need to find some scraps to buy of BH5 or No-Rez from someone. I have absolutely no need of $60-100 worth of dampener material when I only need two 4” squares. Hopefully someone has done laying around they will part with. Epoxied the midwoofers as I had just never gotten around to doing it. So hopefully by end of summer I’ll have these done!
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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    Curious what kind of upgrade the R200’s (or even a set of LSiM703’s) might be to a TL modded 5B? I mean, I’d love to have some R700’s, but my little 12x13 room that has stuff on every wall wouldn’t like them much.
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,340
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    Speaking from my comparison of my RTA-11TL w/mods to my LSi15 w/upgraded sub, I have to say that I really like them both but differently. When I bought the LSi15's I thought I could get rid of the RTA-11TL's but found I couldn't part with them. The mid to upper clarity and imaging of the LSi15's has it over the RTA-11TL. However, I prefer the low end, warmth and cohesiveness of the RTA-11TL. Maybe the LSi15 is technically better but there is an enjoyment factor of the RTA-11TL that the LSi15 lacks.

    I imagine comparing the Monitor 5B to the LSiM703 would be similar, things likeable about each.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    After you upgrade to RD0198's, Install new caps, install your MW rings, butyl mat and foam the inner baskets as discussed, you'll think twice about the R200s.
    Install the billet RD0 bezels and phase plugs, you'll forget about them entirely.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    Ordering al the parts today finally. Doing the TL Mod and going with RD0-198's. So:

    ClarityCap ESA 12uF
    ClarityCap ESA 5.6uF
    ClarityCap PX 33uF
    Mundorf MOX 2.7R
    Jantzen 000-1640 inductor .27mH/0.49R

    My first inclination is I'll be removing the polyswitch and jumpering, BUT I use a fair bit of lower powered DIY amps (Pass ACA, fleawatt tube amps in the 1-2W range). Now I know these aren't ideal for these speakers and I do have some larger receivers (Carver 900, Sansui AU-719) I use as well. My concern is that by removing the polyswitch and using the lower powered amps that don't have speaker protection I may be compromising my speakers. Is there a better "replacement" option for the polyswitches for tweeter protection?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
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    The volume control
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    F1nut wrote: »
    The volume control

    Yeah, that’s what I was thinking. I’ve never tripped a polyswitch in them even when I was a teen and ran them very hard. The low power tube amps I kind of know where the distortion starts so it’s not really an issue.
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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    I’m going to use some canare 4S8 wire I have to redo the internal wiring (two strands twisted for each polarity). Roughly that’s 13 awg. Anyway, what are the Faston sizes for the midwoofer and the RD0198? I know they are sized for wire gauge and blade thickness.

    Oh, and thank you for all your help. I’m almost ready to get started!
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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    Started work on the crossovers. I made the mistake of adding up all the cost of this. $450, which is about what I paid for these new 🙄 This better be worth it or I’m gonna be pissed because I could have finished my EL34 amp for that.

    New RD0-198’s, Xchop rings, clarity caps, small inductors, resistors, Canare 4S8 wire, hurricane nuts and bolts, binding terminals, dynamat, BH5 (free!), fastons, and other misc hardware.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    When you're done, go listen to a set of R200's and ask yourself if you'd trade them.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
    edited July 2023
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    @F1nut @westmassguy
    Any reason this is an issue (extending bypass cap lead) instead of putting the cap parallel to the resistor? I can swap the inductor and 5.6uf cap positions if needed, but then I’d be running the inductor lead across the top of the board. Either way, no problem.


    Post edited by shaneybob on
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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    Yeah, I know, I need to clean up the soldering a bit. 😜🤣🙄
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
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    What bypass cap?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
    edited July 2023
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    F1nut wrote: »
    What bypass cap?

    The 5.6uf that is tied in parallel with the 2.7R resistor in the TL mod. Bypass is the wrong terminology, but I’m so used to adding caps in parallel to other caps that’s what I typed.
    yf0hmp23r6k1.jpeg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
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    Ok, got it.

    No problem extending the leads.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Ok, got it.

    No problem extending the leads.

    I’ve never done crossovers so I wasn’t sure if it would really have an effect having one short and one long lead.

    As always, I appreciate your help F1nut.
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  • ChrisD06
    ChrisD06 Posts: 886
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    shaneybob wrote: »
    @F1nut @westmassguy
    Any reason this is an issue (extending bypass cap lead) instead of putting the cap parallel to the resistor? I can swap the inductor and 5.6uf cap positions if needed, but then I’d be running the inductor lead across the top of the board. Either way, no problem.


    GOD GOD THAT SOLDERING!

    It looks better than my earlier attempts though! You'll get the hang of it.

    Your thread inspired me to make one on my own project! I'm enjoying seeing your project come together.
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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
    edited July 2023
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    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    GOD GOD THAT SOLDERING!

    It looks better than my earlier attempts though! You'll get the hang of it.

    Your thread inspired me to make one on my own project! I'm enjoying seeing your project come together.

    Most of it is from using braid to remove the old solder. Spreads it about on the copper plane making it look like a mess. I’ve never soldered to a single plane like that, but I’d like to see some examples of other folks work here to get a better idea of what it’s supposed to look like, but all I can find is completed assemblies from the top I’ve done lots of thru-hole pcb, turrets, and eyelets. I’m seriously thinking of just having a heavy pcb made so I can have the layout I want without monkeying with these and having bend leads into weird locations.

    Here’s the other with factory soldering.

    s2pnh6w9palo.jpeg

    Here’s mine after I cleaned it up a bit. All the outs to the drivers are still the factory.

    j08usxi6qjgm.jpeg

    Post edited by shaneybob on
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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    First one done. I wanted to hear the new one against the old one. There is definitely a difference. There isn’t that peak from the SL2000 tweeter. That’s very noticeable on higher vocals. Everything is more clear and defined, although it almost sounds like the upper mids are pulled back a bit. Bass isn’t deeper, but quicker and more defined. I had my wife listen to some tracks in mono while I panned back and forth and she agreed with all the above with no prompting from me, although she thought both sounded good. Now to do the other one.

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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    A little further listening notes. This will take a bit of getting used to. I’ve been listening to these for nearly 40 years so I’m pretty trained to the way they’ve sounded. One thing I’ve noticed with the TL mod on this one is I’m more sensitive to the tweeter height relative to my ears. I’ve had stands I built years ago that aren’t tilted back and about 10” tall. I might need to build some new stands to either raise them up a few inches or tilt them back a smidge.
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  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 1,601
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    That wire looks pretty sweet.

    I don’t think you’ll know for sure what you have until you get the other one done and let the crossovers have some break-in time. I know it’s tempting to do, but listening to one at a time or a modded one together with an un-modded one can play some tricks with you. Get the other one done, give them a steady diet of AM radio static when you’re not listening to speed the crossover break-in (if you can) and a few weeks’ listening time to know what’s really going on.
    Brian

    One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
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    but listening to one at a time or a modded one together with an un-modded one can play some tricks with you.

    ^THIS^
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • shaneybob
    shaneybob Posts: 58
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    Of course. But when I put the speakers side by side and pan left and right I can see if my speakers investment made any change in the sound at all. It’s very noticeable with the tweeter peak gone and the clarity change. I can always throw the old crossovers back in because I bought a separate set to do the mods on in case I didn’t like it.
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  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,466
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    ChrisD06 wrote: »
    shaneybob wrote: »
    @F1nut @westmassguy
    Any reason this is an issue (extending bypass cap lead) instead of putting the cap parallel to the resistor? I can swap the inductor and 5.6uf cap positions if needed, but then I’d be running the inductor lead across the top of the board. Either way, no problem.
    GOD GOD THAT SOLDERING!

    It looks better than my earlier attempts though! You'll get the hang of it.

    See dude, it's comments like this that will get you accidentally pushed down a flight of stairs, or off a subway platform with a train coming in, esp when you're no expert.

    Do you find that a room clears when you walk in, or are you just good at getting punched in the face?
    I disabled signatures.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,189
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    FWIW I think that soldering was very good. Certainly no cold solder joints! Only thing that came to my mind was (maybe) a little too much but that is being picky. I try to make the best physical connection possible under the circumstances and then flow in the minimal amount of solder but that can be difficult sometimes.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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