What should I do (or what would you do)?

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wispolkboy
wispolkboy Posts: 149
in Vintage Speakers
I picked up the guts of a 5A. Peerless tweeters, mw6500, and the PR. And crossovers
All in very good condition.
Should I build a m5 cabinet for them, I am confident enough in my woodworking skills to duplicate the cabinets. (i would probably go with wood on the front)
I have 2 sets of m4s, one m5a, one m7a all with Peerless and mw6500.
Should I just keep as spare parts? 82mbohz2key7.jpg

Just curious what others would do if they were in my position.
M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,054
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    I mean technically building a box would also be spare parts... Just spare parts you are listneing to
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    Build the enclosures with a little more airspace. Maybe add a small weight to the PR and get them to dig lower.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    VR3 wrote: »
    I mean technically building a box would also be spare parts... Just spare parts you are listneing to

    True, I guess, for anything that one is not using...
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    xschop wrote: »
    Build the enclosures with a little more airspace. Maybe add a small weight to the PR and get them to dig lower.

    What do you mean by adding weight...?
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
    edited February 2022
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    wispolkboy wrote: »
    xschop wrote: »
    Build the enclosures with a little more airspace. Maybe add a small weight to the PR and get them to dig lower.

    What do you mean by adding weight...?

    I have 5B's and wish they dug deeper like the 7's do, but keep their smaller footprint. You may have to experiment with adding small gram weights at a time until it is tuned to your liking.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    I love my 7s bass... I wonder if I just make the cabinets a bit bigger... Not much but just to see. My 5a's with my xo upgrade was a big improvement...
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Build new cabinets the correct size/volume and add a sub if you want deeper bass. :)

    That was my original thought as well... I like to get feedback from people on this forum... So much knowledge.
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    I believe my 5a's are particleboard, but I think that i would go with MDF... Is that a good idea?
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
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  • SIHAB
    SIHAB Posts: 4,521
    edited February 2022
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    well there is always this...
    https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxEnclosure/
    https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxVolume/
    Speakers: Polk Lsim, ATC SCM19 v2, NHT SuperzeroSpeaker Cables: DH Labs, Transparent, Wireworld, Canare, Monster: Beer budget, Bose ears
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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    SIHAB wrote: »
    well there is always this...
    https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxEnclosure/
    https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxVolume/

    Interesting,.... I think if I didn't have something to copy or if I was making something from scratch I would use this. Have you or anyone else use this to make a new cabinet with polk speaker components?
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    wispolkboy wrote: »
    I believe my 5a's are particleboard, but I think that i would go with MDF... Is that a good idea?

    Yes, and countersink the drivers on the baffle while you're at it.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • SIHAB
    SIHAB Posts: 4,521
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    what I was thinking was, if you like the 7's but can't fit them,
    skip the passive radiator and build a two way to suit.
    (plus the suggested subwoofer in a convenient place)
    No, I haven't done this with the 5's...
    Speakers: Polk Lsim, ATC SCM19 v2, NHT SuperzeroSpeaker Cables: DH Labs, Transparent, Wireworld, Canare, Monster: Beer budget, Bose ears
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  • plastic_avatar
    plastic_avatar Posts: 690
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    Build thuh box!

    Build thuh box!

    Build thuh...

    Srsly, that would be a neat project =)

    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,190
    edited February 2022
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    I think I would make an enclosure the same volume or if speaker calculators say larger might be better, go a bit larger and modify passive weight to tune, but try to make more of a pyramidal shaped enclosure and countersink the drivers in the front baffle which is 2 thicknesses of MDF. That would allow a 1" radius roundover on the front baffle and also non-parallel sides tend to defeat internal standing waves and the narrower cabinet towards the tweeter and midwoofer end will promote better imaging.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    Calculate the volume of the 7's and 5's, then divide by 2. That's the volume I'd go with.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,808
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    wispolkboy wrote: »
    I believe my 5a's are particleboard, but I think that i would go with MDF... Is that a good idea?

    Yes.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    Gardenstater wrote: »
    I think I would make an enclosure the same volume or if speaker calculators say larger might be better, go a bit larger and modify passive weight to tune, but try to make more of a pyramidal shaped enclosure and countersink the drivers in the front baffle which is 2 thicknesses of MDF. That would allow a 1" radius roundover on the front baffle and also non-parallel sides tend to defeat internal standing waves and the narrower cabinet towards the tweeter and midwoofer end will promote better imaging.

    Do you have a rough plan for this? So something like 14" at the base and tapering to 8" at the top?... This is just an example...
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,190
    edited February 2022
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    wispolkboy wrote: »
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    I think I would make an enclosure the same volume or if speaker calculators say larger might be better, go a bit larger and modify passive weight to tune, but try to make more of a pyramidal shaped enclosure and countersink the drivers in the front baffle which is 2 thicknesses of MDF. That would allow a 1" radius roundover on the front baffle and also non-parallel sides tend to defeat internal standing waves and the narrower cabinet towards the tweeter and midwoofer end will promote better imaging.

    Do you have a rough plan for this? So something like 14" at the base and tapering to 8" at the top?... This is just an example...


    That's the idea, but to determine the exact dimensions I'd use a CAD program which would calculate internal volume. I'd probably slope the front baffle and sides but keep the rear plumb/vertical. I'd make relief cuts on the inner baffle layer coinciding with the basket windows on the MW and Passive (sort of like a 4 leaf clover) and maybe even go with 1" MDF for the outer baffle layer but countersink deeper than basket flange and also have an external 1/2" roundover. That would also work with a future trim ring that could be coming sometime (who knows). The 1" MDF would have hardwood around the perimeter so that could be radiused and you wouldn't have to do any crazy veneer bending. The rest would be wood veneer except maybe matte black painted finish for the front baffle because of the 1/2" roundovers.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    I see what you are getting at... An interesting idea.
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,707
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    I've always liked the Epicure 3.0's. Rare birds.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,073
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    I'd stick with original cabinet size/volume.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,439
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    You could build an awesome center channel speaker
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    audioluvr wrote: »
    You could build an awesome center channel speaker

    Thats a good idea, I would have no idea how the crossover would be. And the structure of the cabinet. Such as internal bracing. Do you know of anyone that has done this?
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,587
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    @westmassguy
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    @westmassguy

    Thanks for dragging me kicking and screaming into this Ivan.
    My advice, build two enclosures with the exact same internal dimensions as the originals. The hard part has already been done: crossover design, and passive radiator size and weighting. Polk had/has some really smart people in R&D who forgot what I know. Keep it simple!
    BTW, my center channel project used 5jr+ parts, not the early full size Monitor 5s.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,587
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    I'm sorry Dave I couldn't find your thread with your excellent pictures.
    Please forgive me.
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  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
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    It would be a huge center channel with the pr from a regular 5a.
    I have decided to build an exact copy (size) of a 5a. Going to use mahogany MDF. Same for the face of the speaker.
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited February 2022
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I'm sorry Dave I couldn't find your thread with your excellent pictures.
    Please forgive me.

    Just busting your chops Ivan :)
    Oh and BTW, my center channel thread is in my signature dufus
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,587
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    westmassguy wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I'm sorry Dave I couldn't find your thread with your excellent pictures.
    Please forgive me.

    Just busting your chops Ivan :)
    Oh and BTW, my center channel thread is in my signature dufus

    LMAO ya know ever since we have legal weed in Illinois my memory has..... Wait what were we talking about?
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