If you had $4,000 for a amp????

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  • guyincognito
    guyincognito Posts: 128
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    What about a used pair of parasound JC1s or a used JC5. Both should be available around the $4000 mark if you are patient. I love my JC5 and per parasound, all the halo stuff is "unconditionally stable down to 2 ohm".
    Rega Planar 8, Apheta 3 MC , Aria mk2 Phono
    Aurender n100h, Benchmark DAC2 HGC
    Arcam SR250, Parasound JC5
    Revel F208, SVS SB-4000
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    guyincognito wrote: »
    What about a used pair of parasound JC1s or a used JC5. Both should be available around the $4000 mark if you are patient. I love my JC5 and per parasound, all the halo stuff is "unconditionally stable down to 2 ohm".

    I enjoyed the two parasound amps I've owned before. HCA750A and. 2250 V2. Can a pair of Halos be had for $4K???? You mention a "Pair".
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  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,871
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    here are some from Audiogon and they all have the make offer button.
    mark levinson #335 $3977
    hegel h20 $4099
    Goldmund mimesis 8 $3250
    parasound jc1 monos $4000
    theta monos $3400
    herron audio m1a monos $2395
    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
    Puritan PSM156
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    marvda1 wrote: »
    here are some from Audiogon and they all have the make offer button.
    mark levinson #335 $3977
    hegel h20 $4099
    Goldmund mimesis 8 $3250
    parasound jc1 monos $4000
    theta monos $3400
    herron audio m1a monos $2395

    Ah ****. So many more amps to research. Thanks man. All joking aside I appreciate it and will check them out.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    I'll be looking for a slightly laid back sound in the highs,, with huge bass impact. Vocals must be as true as possible.
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,093
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    The Carver Ravens will be right up your alley......
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
    edited July 2021
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    nooshinjohn wrote: »
    The Carver Ravens will be right up your alley......

    IIRC, you and Bob built some custom right?

    I do regret selling my Carver TFM45 that I had rebuilt by Greg Garska to @Gardenstater!!!
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,093
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    They have been the rock of my system for almost ten years now, and still bring a smile every time I turn them on. (or see them sitting on the entertainment center.)
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
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    Twas not I Chris. Good luck getting through this phase and with your reward of a great amp and super modded Infinities. All things pass.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,554
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    CH46E wrote: »
    nooshinjohn wrote: »
    The Carver Ravens will be right up your alley......

    IIRC, you and Bob built some custom right?

    I do regret selling my Carver TFM45 that I had rebuilt by Greg Garska to @Gardenstater!!!

    Correction it was
    @honestaquarian that you sold it to
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  • honestaquarian
    honestaquarian Posts: 3,186
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    CH46E wrote: »
    nooshinjohn wrote: »
    The Carver Ravens will be right up your alley......

    IIRC, you and Bob built some custom right?

    I do regret selling my Carver TFM45 that I had rebuilt by Greg Garska to @Gardenstater!!!

    Correction it was
    @honestaquarian that you sold it to

    Somebody call me???
    (*and he ain't NEVER gettin' it back OR them white t-shirts that he packed it up in ;) *)
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,027
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    CH46E wrote: »
    I'll be looking for a slightly laid back sound in the highs,, with huge bass impact. Vocals must be as true as possible.

    That oh-so-doesn't sound like the "Krell" sound. :#
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,276
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    That oh-so-doesn't sound like the "Krell" sound. :#


    I can get that kind of sound out of my krell amp with a pair of 1616 tubes in my preamps power supply and some ken rad vt231's signal tubes in the preamp. I do agree though that krell amps can be bright, it's just harder to match with the right upstream gear.
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  • guyincognito
    guyincognito Posts: 128
    edited July 2021
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    I see pairs of the JC1 monoblocks going used around the $4000 mark fairly regularly. The newer JC1+ is much higher but the original JC1 can be had around your price point.
    Rega Planar 8, Apheta 3 MC , Aria mk2 Phono
    Aurender n100h, Benchmark DAC2 HGC
    Arcam SR250, Parasound JC5
    Revel F208, SVS SB-4000
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  • guyincognito
    guyincognito Posts: 128
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    https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lisab3a5-parasound-halo-jc-1-solid-state

    https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lisabcfe-parasound-jc-1-monoblocks-solid-state
    Rega Planar 8, Apheta 3 MC , Aria mk2 Phono
    Aurender n100h, Benchmark DAC2 HGC
    Arcam SR250, Parasound JC5
    Revel F208, SVS SB-4000
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  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,432
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    CH46E wrote: »
    I'll be looking for a slightly laid back sound in the highs,, with huge bass impact. Vocals must be as true as possible.

    The B&K M200 Sonata monos are all that. Good luck finding a pair for sale though. That ML 335 sounds like a beast. Don't know what they sound like though.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)

    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
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  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    edited July 2021
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    invalid wrote: »
    That oh-so-doesn't sound like the "Krell" sound. :#


    I can get that kind of sound out of my krell amp with a pair of 1616 tubes in my preamps power supply and some ken rad vt231's signal tubes in the preamp. I do agree though that krell amps can be bright, it's just harder to match with the right upstream gear.

    So, in addition to trying to push a brand that doesn't jive with what he's looking for....you want to push a tube preamp to use, ostensibly, as a tone control? I'm not averse to the idea of using a tube preamp and a solid state amp....I did it for years....as it offers a great compromise but using a preamp to mask the sound of an amp? Doesn't really pass the common sense test. Why not find an amp that you like in the first place and work on synergy instead of a bandaid?

    Oh, and back to the RSII's.....lots of folks using the BHK amps to power Maggies. If they power Maggies, they will power about anything Infinity made. Again, I don't really care what amp he ultimately chooses and I certainly have no reason to push PS Audio....but I find your notion that PS Audio gear has the stability of a garden variety AVR a bit silly.


    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,276
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    BHK amps to power Maggie's

    BHK 250 amp kept shutting down with the Maggie LRS.


    for....you want to push a tube preamp to use, ostensibly, as a tone control?


    Tubes are actually more linear than transistors, try running a transistor without any negative feedback.
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  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 8,518
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    Para sound jc1
    Magico, JL, Emm, ARC Ref 10 line, ARC Ref 10 phono, VPI, Lyra, Boulder, AQ Wel, SRA Scuttle Rack, Bluesound
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  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,367
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    A pair of JC1s would be on my list too. Since Parasound came out with the JC1+ model recently some of the previous models may be hitting the used market. Be careful though since the JC1 model has been on the market for a long time and some of the used ones may need to be refreshed by now. It's also a good idea to buy something made by a company that's still in business in case repairs/updates are needed.

    I think the key here is to get an amp or amps with sufficient ability to dissipate heat through large enough heat sinks and avoid shutdowns for thermal reasons. The JC1s have that in monoblock form. Not sure I'd spend $4K on a stereo amp if I knew it would be for driving 2 ohm loads regularly.
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,276
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    Para sound jc1



    That's a good choice easy to match gear with and lots of power at a decent price used.
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  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,276
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    I think the key here is to get an amp or amps with sufficient ability to dissipate heat through large enough heat sinks and avoid shutdowns for thermal reasons. The JC1s have that in monoblock form. Not sure I'd spend $4K on a stereo amp if I knew it would be for driving 2 ohm loads regularly.


    That is a good point, even if your stereo amp has the power supply capable of driving low impedance loads, it only has so much heat sink area, where as a pair of monoblocks should have more area for heat sinking being only one channel per amp.
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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,972
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    CH46E wrote: »
    I'll be looking for a slightly laid back sound in the highs,, with huge bass impact. Vocals must be as true as possible.

    Though I’ve never played in this financial realm, this description certainly fits the house musical fidelity sound wouldn’t you agree @TroyD? And they have some high end stand alone amps (mine’s an integrated)…
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
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    If an amp shuts down trying to drive a pair of .7's in all but the most extreme of situations (and extreme by way of abuse)....the amp is broken. Period.


    A. "Hey, I know this amp isn't what you are looking for....but, if you also toss your preamp and buy this one, and these specific tubes, well, it won't really sound like that amp any more"

    OR

    B: "Here is an amp that, on it's own merits, might fit your listening tastes (and might play well with the gear you already have)"

    Ok, so you jerk your meat to Krell....a lot of folks do.....but why keep pushing an option that doesn't make sense for the OP just for the sake of your own Krell fetish?

    I mean, are you this dense or just trying to make an impression?
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
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  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    edited July 2021
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    invalid wrote: »
    I think the key here is to get an amp or amps with sufficient ability to dissipate heat through large enough heat sinks and avoid shutdowns for thermal reasons. The JC1s have that in monoblock form. Not sure I'd spend $4K on a stereo amp if I knew it would be for driving 2 ohm loads regularly.


    That is a good point, even if your stereo amp has the power supply capable of driving low impedance loads, it only has so much heat sink area, where as a pair of monoblocks should have more area for heat sinking being only one channel per amp.


    Oy vey. We ain't talking about trying to power a pair of Apogee Scintillas......Look, I own/have owned some pretty demanding speakers in terms of efficiency and/or impedance curves. I've had an issue with thermal shutdowns a handful of times in, what, 25 years? It's a statistical anomaly.

    Find a competently designed amp of 100wpc that fits your sonic happy place...and you will have zero issues for 99.99% of your listening needs.

    This whole, you gotta have 1000 wpc that doubles in power as the impedance halves down to a short circuit with heat sinks the size of a solar panel is a bunch of nonsense .....and nonsense that can get unnecessarily expensive in a hurry.
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
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  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,871
    edited July 2021
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    take a look at the stats on that goldmund amp.

    Description: Solid-state stereo power amplifier. Rated power output: 125Wpc into 2 to 8 ohms (15–21dBW), 100Wpc into 1 and 16 ohms (11 & 23dBW), 250Wpc into 3 ohms (maximum) (19.7dBW), both channels driven. Maximum voltage swing: 45V peak, both channels driven. Maximum current swing: 30A peak, both channels driven. Transient Intermodulation Distortion (TID): less than 0.01% (–80dB) up to 25V output into 8 ohms. Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): less than 0.01% (–80dB) up to 25V output into 8 ohms. Frequency response: DC–100kHz, ±0.1dB; DC–400kHz, ±1dB; DC–800kHz, ±1dB (all up to rated power). Crosstalk: !w90dB, common ground. Input impedance: 50k ohms. Input sensitivity: 1.55V RMS for rated output. S/N ratio: better than 100dB, 20Hz–20kHz; better than 110dB, A-weighted. Risetime: less than 700ns. Slew rate: greater than 100V/µs. Damping factor/output impedance: not specified.
    Dimensions: 19" (483mm) W by 6" (150mm) H by 21" (488mm) D including handles. Weight: 77 lbs (35kg).
    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
    Puritan PSM156
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  • motorhead43026
    motorhead43026 Posts: 3,892
    edited July 2021
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    This would be my choice the P2 or anything Anthem.

    https://www.anthemav.com/products-current/type=amplifier/model=p2/page=specs.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,792
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    rooftop59 wrote: »
    CH46E wrote: »
    I'll be looking for a slightly laid back sound in the highs,, with huge bass impact. Vocals must be as true as possible.

    Though I’ve never played in this financial realm, this description certainly fits the house musical fidelity sound wouldn’t you agree @TroyD? And they have some high end stand alone amps (mine’s an integrated)…

    Fits it to a T.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,972
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    F1nut wrote: »
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    CH46E wrote: »
    I'll be looking for a slightly laid back sound in the highs,, with huge bass impact. Vocals must be as true as possible.

    Though I’ve never played in this financial realm, this description certainly fits the house musical fidelity sound wouldn’t you agree @TroyD? And they have some high end stand alone amps (mine’s an integrated)…

    Fits it to a T.

    Should’ve tagged you as well since I bought based largely on your recommendation!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
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    Yup....hard to find fault with Musical Fidelity amplification fo’ sho’
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
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