Monitor 5B Update

I've had a pair of minty Monitor 5B sitting around waiting for be to do something with. I can do the obvious updates: RD0194 tweeters, nix the poly-switch, caps, resistors, damping, etc. However, I am wondering about the SL-3000 (TL) XO mod and using RD0198 tweeters.

Has anyone done the TL mod to the 5B?

If so, any idea how it compares to just going with the RD0194?

Thanks in advance
Stan
Stan

Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601

Comments

  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    I’ve been playing with the RD0194 tweeters in the 5B. They are def more laid back than the SL-2000. But I can see why some like the SL-2000 for certain music. They work well with old Rod Stewart.

    I presently have the RD0194 doing burn-in in prep for install.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    edited December 2020
    Temporarily installed.
    a9eec5ui30eb.jpeg

    In the burn-in chamber as to not annoy my wife.
    8ytgevm3m3ql.jpeg
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    I have a pair of RD0198 and SL3000. I’m still wondering about the TL mod.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,636
    Although I have the 5.8uf caps on hand, I still haven't tried the TL mod. I can say that the 6x6 x 0.5" thick open-cell foam behind the MWs and 1/4 of the poly-fill removed is a nice improvement in midrange and bass extension. Mine play down to 32HZ all day.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    Ok, I just pushed the poly-fill up from behind the MW and it got rid of some of the muddiness. Thanks. I have some sonic barrier that I can play with.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,636
    edited December 2020
    I followed what others have suggested and had the poly-fill up away from rear of PR, yet still behind tweet and MW. The foam sheet and lessened poly-fill cleans up the kick drums along with mids.
    I listen to alot of jazz, old school and new, and am working on the tweeter adapter plates for the Morel MDT-29 and Dayton DC28f sticky domes (Morel knockoffs).

    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    I have the poly-fill pushed up behind the tweeters. The bass seems much cleaner. Where did you put the foam sheet?

    Cool about the Morel tweeters. I'd like to hear how it goes. They make some awesome tweeters.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,636
    edited December 2020
    I put the 6x6" foam sheet directly centered behind the MWs on the rear wall. Do you feel that the front baffle between MW and tweeter needs reinforced on yours?
    Nice looking 5B's you have BTW.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    Reinforcing? The cabinets seem very solid. I wasn't planning on any structural mods. Is this something that others have done?
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,636
    Was just curious. I'm not sure if the 5Bs were particle board vs MDF. Mine seem ok as is but I think the area does exhibit some vibes on kick-drums at times.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    Time for component selection. I figure that I'll go with Clarity Cap CSA for the tweeter networks. Previously I have used the PX with good results. They are a big step over the electrolytics. The CSA should be more so and the cost is reasonable.

    The larger 34uF used in the MW network can get costly. I'm looking at Dayton or Jentzen Cross Cap unless someone has another economical suggestion.

    I plan to nix the polyswitch. Therefore, I plan to replace the 2.0 ohm tweeter resistor with a 2.5 or 2.7 ohm resistor and put a jumper in place of the PS. I figure Mills 10W or Mundorf. Preference?

    If I decide to to the TL mod, I will need to replace the 0.23mH inductor with a 0.27mH. I believe these are 22 awg but I haven't found any yet. I figure it is important to use the same awg to maintain the same ESR. Anyone know of a source or what the actual ESR should be?
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    xschop wrote: »
    Was just curious. I'm not sure if the 5Bs were particle board vs MDF. Mine seem ok as is but I think the area does exhibit some vibes on kick-drums at times.

    I believe it is thick particle board but they are very solid. Knocking on the cabinet gives no apparent resonance. Have you tried putting Dynamat on the MW and PR baskets?

    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    skrol wrote: »
    Time for component selection. I figure that I'll go with Clarity Cap CSA for the tweeter networks. Previously I have used the PX with good results. They are a big step over the electrolytics. The CSA should be more so and the cost is reasonable.

    The larger 34uF used in the MW network can get costly. I'm looking at Dayton or Jentzen Cross Cap unless someone has another economical suggestion.

    I plan to nix the polyswitch. Therefore, I plan to replace the 2.0 ohm tweeter resistor with a 2.5 or 2.7 ohm resistor and put a jumper in place of the PS. I figure Mills 10W or Mundorf. Preference?

    If I decide to to the TL mod, I will need to replace the 0.23mH inductor with a 0.27mH. I believe these are 22 awg but I haven't found any yet. I figure it is important to use the same awg to maintain the same ESR. Anyone know of a source or what the actual ESR should be?
    I would stick with the Clarity PX for the low Pass. Keep it all in the same family. A 12uf & 22uf will stack nicely.
    Go with a 2.5 ohm Mills/Vishay Mills 12 watt.
    The required DCR not ESR for the shunt inductor, is .5 ohms
    The closest inductor I've found, is the Jantzen Air Core #000-1640 #22 gauge @ .49 ohms. Special order from HiFi Collective out of the UK
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • dromunds
    dromunds Posts: 9,969
    I was also going to suggest going with the Clarity PX for the low pass. Stay with the same family.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    Ok, thanks for the advise.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    I know it doesn't give the 34uF value but what about the PX in 15uF + 18uF to get 33uF? This keeps them closer in value to each other and is well within the factory tolerance. Or would it be more important to have the 34uF total value?
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,636
    I'm using 33uf caps on the MW circuit, mids and bass are outstanding. And yes I used the Butyl Mat on the MWs and PRs. You should Butyl Mat the rear face of the RDO plastic frames as well.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • I'm pretty OCD but I guess if I was going to go with 33uF, I'd try to ask the seller if they could give me caps that were towards the high side of their tolerances, if they do that. I think if they say +/- 5% it probably means that typically they are more like +/-2.5%, because the manufacturers give themselves some factor of safety. If you could get 33uF +3% that would put you right at 34uF.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    skrol wrote: »
    I know it doesn't give the 34uF value but what about the PX in 15uF + 18uF to get 33uF? This keeps them closer in value to each other and is well within the factory tolerance. Or would it be more important to have the 34uF total value?

    You could go that way as well. It's a shunt cap. Not as critical as an inline component in the high pass circuit.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Nice!
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    Looking good. Did you end up replacing the poly switches or leave them out? I can't tell from the pictures.
  • Wow, those look great. Big!
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    Faustin wrote: »
    Looking good. Did you end up replacing the poly switches or leave them out? I can't tell from the pictures.

    I took the polyswitches out, replacing them with a jumper. Since the resistors were in series with the polyswitches, I replaced the 2.0 ohm resistors with 2.7ohms to compensate.

    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,471
    I gotta ask the dumb question. Did you verify they fit back in? Looks to be pretty close!
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,636
    Nice job. The 5Bs are excellent sounding monitors for their size.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,330
    edited January 2021
    Even not broken in, they sound better than I expected. Much more dimensional, better tonal balance. They just sound right. XO upgrades are such a great bang for the buck improvement.

    I probably should have posted all this in the DIY section. My next part is speaker stands. I have these that came with a pair of 5As. The original owner modified them making them taller. I’m not sure the tilt angle is the same as the original. q8l18mmbq91y.jpeg

    They aren’t the most stable things. I think I can make something better. Ideas?
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,136
    edited January 2021
    You can't beat mass density for stability and that's why I chose concrete blocks for the bases of my stands. They could be spackled and sanded and painted matte black.

    That extra stability can allow you to get the tweeter/midwoofs up at ear height at the listening position.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform