Finished my Monitor 10B Stands
bindibadgi
Posts: 15
Hi All!
It's taken me a while, but I finally put together those stands for my 10Bs. I posted a thread where I asked a bunch of questions and showed my design, but I thought I'd start a new one for the finished product.
I changed my design a little. I found that I could fit it all on a smaller (and cheaper) piece of MDF, and have less left over.
Here is the cutting plan for the new design (using a piece of 450x1800x16mm MDF):
If people really want it, I can try to tweak it for imperial sized MDF, but I live in metric land.
Anyway, here's the final product:
I glued and screwed the box part together and then to the base, and then I primed and painted the inside (probably unnecessary). I filled them with dried builders' sand and used a random orbital sander with no sandpaper to vibrate it and settle the sand. It's amazing how much it settles! I fit about another two cups in after settling!
I decided to put a little 12mm (~1/2") hole in the top so I can top it up through a funnel if it settles any more later. You can see the hole in the photo. Just for giggles I vibrated them again and tied to put more sand in. I think I got another half a cup in!
Anyway, I think they came up quite nicely, but the main thing is that these babies now sound fantastic! I've got them on spikes into the carpet (it's on a concrete slab). I might experiment with rollers etc in future, but for now I'm super happy!
BTW I don't know if anybody else feels the same way, but these speakers are awesome for classical guitar (I've been nearly transcending with some Steve Hackett).
It's taken me a while, but I finally put together those stands for my 10Bs. I posted a thread where I asked a bunch of questions and showed my design, but I thought I'd start a new one for the finished product.
I changed my design a little. I found that I could fit it all on a smaller (and cheaper) piece of MDF, and have less left over.
Here is the cutting plan for the new design (using a piece of 450x1800x16mm MDF):
If people really want it, I can try to tweak it for imperial sized MDF, but I live in metric land.
Anyway, here's the final product:
I glued and screwed the box part together and then to the base, and then I primed and painted the inside (probably unnecessary). I filled them with dried builders' sand and used a random orbital sander with no sandpaper to vibrate it and settle the sand. It's amazing how much it settles! I fit about another two cups in after settling!
I decided to put a little 12mm (~1/2") hole in the top so I can top it up through a funnel if it settles any more later. You can see the hole in the photo. Just for giggles I vibrated them again and tied to put more sand in. I think I got another half a cup in!
Anyway, I think they came up quite nicely, but the main thing is that these babies now sound fantastic! I've got them on spikes into the carpet (it's on a concrete slab). I might experiment with rollers etc in future, but for now I'm super happy!
BTW I don't know if anybody else feels the same way, but these speakers are awesome for classical guitar (I've been nearly transcending with some Steve Hackett).
Comments
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Very nice....well done!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Agreed, very nice!!Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Fantastic work!
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Outstanding! And terrific photo!"Sometimes you have to look to the past to understand where you are going in the future"Anger is just anger. It isn’t good. It isn’t bad. It just is. What you do with it is what matters.
You can use it to build or to destroy. You just have to make the choice. Jim Butcher
Harry / Marietta GA -
I like the look of the classic original stands and you nailed it. Nice work
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Very well done, even if it's cough, cough, metric....Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks all.
@la2vegas, they were black when I got them. I assumed they were bought that way. I got them from the original owner (for AU$100 which I think was a sweet deal), and as far as I could tell, he never did anything to them himself. -
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Slick!
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Those are nice stands, good job.
The best way to predict the future is to invent it.
It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact. -
Looking good.
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^^right that is why I deleted my post. Although they look just like my series 2 with the black veneer.The best way to predict the future is to invent it.
It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact. -
Hmmm, very interesting! I took some photos of the guts while I had them apart to JB Weld the magnets, but I didn't take a picture of the ID tag. I'll take one and post it. I thought the tweeters did say SL2500 (no, I didn't JB Weld the tweeters, just the mids ) but I didn't take a picture of that either I'm afraid.
The photos of the mids show DEC 6-1988 on one speaker and NOV 7-1988 on the other if that is of interest.
I was curious about the crossovers though. They both appear to say MODEL 10/11T on the board. One of them has a fat blue inductor L1, and the other has a somewhat thinner yellow one. The one with the blue L1 also appears to have a red coating on the windings on the smaller inductor L2. All the other bits appear to be the same from one speaker to the other.
Is that normal? -
Post some pictures of the crossovers
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The tweeters are SL2000's, no doubt about it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Great job on the stands!
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Here are the crossover pictures. I'll get a picture of the back plate when I'm home.
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I just realised I was just reading L1 on the board without thinking. That's not an inductor! Anyway, now the photos are there everyone can see what I was babbling about.
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Yep, that L1 marks the negative lead of the inductor. The yellow and blue ones (C3) are mylar caps.
Consider upgrading all the caps and resistors.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Yeah I feel a bit dumb, but that's normal for me!
Anyway, here's the back plate if anybody's interested:
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No worries.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
So mine are Monitor 10B (not series 2) with SL2000 tweets then?
They certainly aren't Peerless tweets, so they can't be 10A's right?
I'm a sucker for upgrades, so I'm considering some 194s, but I'm not sure if (or how!) I should upgrade the crossovers too, and if so, should I mod them and get 198s instead?
What are my best options, without spending so much my wife will leave? So far she likes the speakers, but if they drain our bank account, her relationship with them may change somewhat ...
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Do the TL upgrade. Get the 198, Sonicap caps and Mills resistors. Tell the wife to buy herself some shoes.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
How did I guess that that would be the advice here?
I'll see if I can come up with a way to make it happen. Are there any pointers on how it's done (or should I just hand the work to a pro)? -
^^Easy to do yourself. Do one crossover at a time so you have one for reference. Basic soldering skills are all that is really required.The best way to predict the future is to invent it.
It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact. -
Do the TL upgrade. Get the 198, Sonicap caps and Mills resistors. Tell the wife to buy herself some shoes.
And maybe a purse. If you keep them distracted, it is interesting how much you can get away with when it comes to audio ****. -
Pardon my ignorance, but is this the TL-mod (I think I also need to replace the 2.7 Ohm resistor with a 3 Ohm because of the new inductor)? If so, it looks like L2 (the big one underneath) doesn't get touched, even though I'd be replacing all other components, right?
So I'd need the following:- 2x 0.5 Ω 5W Mills Resistor (to replace the polyswitch)
- 2x 2.7 Ω 5W Mills Resistor (do I need a 1.0 and a 1.7 in series for this?)
- 2x 3.0 Ω 5W Mills Resistor
- 4x 12 μF Sonicap Cap
- 2x 34 μF Sonicap Cap
- 0.27 mH Inductor (which one?)
- Binding posts
- extra boards and stand-offs (where to get?)
- RDO-198 Tweeters
Or do I just get someone to do the upgrade for me? I'm not the world's best solderer.
![[Deleted User]](https://wd.vanillicon.com/d7d26f27a631b61d00b2c6040409d173_100.png)
