Home Ownership And You!
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Oh, also, hung some Christmas lights up.
This isn't even all of them. It's only about 3,000 lights. I have 2400 more to put up.

Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I hear you on hollow core doors.
I went with solid core flat slabs throughout , run about 200 a door prehung but weigh about 120 pounds plus per door and are tanks!- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
I hates me some hollow core doors!

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I hear you on hollow core doors.
I went with solid core flat slabs throughout , run about 200 a door prehung but weigh about 120 pounds plus per door and are tanks!
Yeah but with this old house, if I'm spending money on solid doors, I'm doing period appropriate. The arched panel design is an appropriate design for a 1920s house and actually what would have been considered an "high end" option then.
But I'm not getting those doors from Home Depot or something. I gotta go to a specialty lumber yard or millwork company.
I'll eventually do solid doors, the old doors were just so bad that I couldn't leave it. So, inexpensive option that will work for a few years while I get major stuff done.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I tossed all my interior hollow core doors and made doors out of 1x7''ship lap pine. I used new thumb latches that I burned off the galvanized coating overnight in the coals of my woodstove. I took my time and it took me a full day to install each door correctly as each door frame was different and of course none were square. 30 years later now and I've never had any problem with any of them or their hardware. I can only wish I could say that for my exterior metal doors and doorknobs that need occasional lube, tightening, or sometimes full replacement.
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Yeah, so, cut the bathroom door, thought it was good. Hinges all line up with minimal wiggling in to place. It's square, the door frame is amazingly true (within 1/16th of an inch top to bottom) and the door hung straight without drifting but wouldn't close.
Why, you ask?
'Cause the marble threshold isn't level across the entire width and seems to have been cut crooked. The ends where it meets the door frame are within 1/8th of an inch of each other when measuring the height of the door frame from threshold on either side so the door should be shutting.
But there is a hump that's about 3/32nds tall that contacts the door bottom about 6 inches in from the door frame. If I put the small level on it, it frickin' rocks. I didn't see it with the 24" level because it was long enough to span the undulation and not rock. I thought that the sliver of daylight I could see was a worn spot from 30 years of people walking across it. Never thought it was a poorly milled threshold block.
So I gotta take another 1/8th of an inch off the door.
Thanks, Captain Halfass.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I really like to hear about home remodeling scenarios.

After 34 years...I finally installed REAL "return vents w/filter recesses". 34 years!
It took a while, using a chisel to enlarge the openings. I wanted to keep saw dust out of the air!
I also remember sawing hollow core doors to fit somewhere. I'd chisel off the door faces from the sawed off piece and glue and clamp the wood back into the open spot. Did that a few times. I Just can't remember the jobs themselves.
I even hung an attic folding stair case by myself. I'm quite the innovator when I need to be.
It's still being used. It's in my hall above the hall return vent. We had grills on the walls but no filters except for one on the furnaces INSIDE the room;
Here's a couple pics of those return vent alterations.


This second one was much easier. Less chiseling.;





I painted the room where insulation board wasn't put up. Painted the floor a few coats too. 34 years to get to this.
I feel/know the air is a lot cleaner the past couple of months!
Now to get a carpet cleaner in here.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
“Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured.”
--Mark Twain.
“If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving definitely isn't for you.” - Steven Wright -
Gather around, children, it's story time again!
So I can't remember if I posted about this before in another thread or not and the search function here is garbage so I can't tell for sure.
Anyhoo, October of last year, I had a garage door replaced.
I know what you're thinking! But, John, why would you do something so extreme? Well, muchacho, it would be because this was the state of the door when we took possession of the house.







So, that gap at the top, at it's widest point, was 11.5 inches.
What happened to it you ask? FIIK. Nearest I can tell is that Captain Halfass had hooked up that garage door opener to the top panel with no stiffening brace and repeated use broke the inner foam core which then led to the aluminum skin getting creased and torn. At some point, it was snagged by a forklift too. So rather than fix it, they just stopped opening that door.
Three big problems with that.
1.) The left side of the door would come out of the track ALL the time. I literally kept a sledge hammer next to the door to beat it back in to place when it happened.
2.) That top panel actually fell out of the track several times. I managed to dodge it all but one time and the one time it did get me, it opened a 3 inch gash on my head and I had a concussion.
3.) The door did nothing to keep out what was supposed to stay out. Birds, insects, the weather, whatever. Everything got in through that gap.
I struggled with that **** for almost 2 years. The day it actually hurt me I decided I was done. The bathroom from earlier in the thread had just happened and sucked down all my money so I had to scrimp and save to get this done. But I had a reason for it.
I had door guys come and help me out. This thing kicked their butts too.
When they first came to look at it and give me an estimate, the guy's words were "What the **** is this ****? It's like, why even bother with a door?" He took measurements and said it'd be about a week to get the door in and they would call to schedule after that, meanwhile I had to clean up the space for them to work.
But they got it done, it looks and works good.


I have not reattached the garage door opener.
Now I told you that because the reason that I had the door done was because I had a boat load of vacation time saved up that we didn't get to use last year because of Pig Vomit and his shenanigans. So I took the week of Thanksgiving off last year to get the work done that I needed to. So I'll get to that in the next post which is going to be looooong.
But, when I decided to do the garage door, I made a plan to get some of the heavier lifting out of the way. I figured my life wasn't complicated and difficult enough. So I thought to myself "Self. What would make this life complete?" And myself rightly replied "Dumpster fire, bro. Totally."
And so it began.....
Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I've done a few garage doors John and the biggin's are no F. U. N.
Yes with the large wide doors you need those braces on more than just the top. I've seen more than one here in Illinois crumpled. The straight line winds we can get fold them up and pull them out of the tracks and leave them swinging in the wind.
looks nice brah! -
Is that a single 2x4 I'm seeing for a garage door header????
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No, it's triple sistered 2x8s for the header plate. The 2x3 is just a nailer plate for the siding.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
Someone forget to the take the ladder off their truck before parking in front of the garage?
Don't know how keen the dumpster company will be if you torch their can, buuut you could just claim an act of god and absolve yourself from any repercussions. Sounds fine to me.
Next time, just get the 30Yd. Most disposal companies charge the same for a 10/15 as they do a 30...
At least up here they do.Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!! -
In my area the smaller dumpsters cost more than the larger. Most of the cost is dumping fees around here.
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Someone forget to the take the ladder off their truck before parking in front of the garage?
Don't know how keen the dumpster company will be if you torch their can, buuut you could just claim an act of god and absolve yourself from any repercussions. Sounds fine to me.
Next time, just get the 30Yd. Most disposal companies charge the same for a 10/15 as they do a 30...
At least up here they do.
Not sure what ladder you're talking about. Or is it 'cause of the folding step ladder? 'Cause the never pulled the 20 ft extending ladder off the truck.
I didn't set it on fire, this was over a year ago now.
That cost me $322 for up to 21 days, I only had it for 17. The 30 yard was $460 and more than I needed. Well, I wanted to do more than I did but I ran out of time and I filled the 20 yard to the brim. I was 220 pounds under my weight limit on it too. Driver was impressed when he picked it up.
Right now, though, the 20 yard is $416 for the cheapest I've seen, a 30 yard is $522 and a 40 yard is $668. There's also a 2 week lead time on them too. Guess the stupid virus has everyone doing major work.
But while a bigger dumpster may cost less overall, if I only have $350 for a dumpster then getting a $460 dumpster is not going to work. Especially when I only need 20 yards.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
Ladder, on racks, on someone’s truck, backing up to garage door, garage door down, bend door, no fixy...
Show me someone, anyone, who couldn’t at any moment in time, fill a 30yd dumpster. I’ll wait.
Merry Christmas Jstas. Just bustin’ chops and the way I read it, I thought you were going to start a dumpster fire.
Nothing says 2020 Christmas like a great big dumpster fire!!!
Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!! -
Oh, no, it's most definitely a forklift. He had it parked in the garage at the top of the hill when we were looking at the house. It also leaked hydraulic fluid all over the garage floor up there. I had oil dri spread for almost 3 years to soak it all up. There's other spots on the property with damage from a forklift, too. The other garage had a hole punched in the block from a forklift fork and there were broken stringers in the garage and the small middle door doesn't open or close correctly because it got snagged by the forklift track and pulled down at one point. The tracks were held up with bailing wire when I got here. I have them secured with angle bar but only so they don't fall down.
And I wrote that last post because I didn't have time to write out the entire post that I wanted to. So there's more coming.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
OK, so bear with me here, this is a big story.
We bought this house in August 2017, the fam moved in October of 2017. I had a ton to do before that happened. But the property was in pretty bad shape. Run down, over-grown and just uncared for. This picture of the garage was taken the day of closing. Pretty shabby.
So I dealt with a ton of crap with this garage for a little over 2 years before I got fed up with it and started working on fixing it. The garage door breaking was the last straw. But it had to be the first thing fixed because there was no point in fixing anything else until that was fixed. But now that that was fixed, I moved on to other things.
You can see in the pictures of the garage door that there are pillows of insulation in the roof. I will tell you right now that even after the door being fixed, all that insulation did was hold in humidity and grow mold. Why? Because it was only single faced and stapled right up against the back of the sheathing. It smelled whenever it rained and would drip water everywhere when the humidity got high enough. Additionally, faced insulation that isn't covered is a severe fire hazard. Bad idea for a garage.
So I decided that it was going to come down. I covered everything in tarps as best as I could, I got myself a couple full Tyvek suits, gloves, booties and a P100 mask kit. Donned myself some goggles and a face shield, grabbed my 4 inch cultivation rake. I then proceeded to rip down about 2,000 sq feet of insulation that was caked with mold, sawdust (also moldy), rodent droppings, bird droppings, nesting material and snake skins as well as an ant colony and a wasp nest.
It took all day and filled the 20 yard dumpster twice over with just insulation. The only thing I've ever done that was nastier was cleaning up after Hurricane Sandy down the shore.
So this is what came down.
I started with the bay where the door was replaced because I knew there was electrical problems up there and I wanted to see if I needed to address them immediately before I moved on.
This picture is what filled up the garage bay where the door was replaced
This is the rest of the garage
This is the dumpster. At this point, there is nothing else in this dumpster but insulation and a door that was flat on the bottom of the dumpster. This isn't even all of the insulation. I still had one more trailer load to throw in and it made it another 3 feet taller. This had even settled a bit because it started raining on me and I had to cover the dumpster with a tarp so the insulation didn't soak up all the rain and cost me a fortune in weight.
I did the insulation first on purpose because I knew it would pack down when I threw two buildings on top of it.
So this is what I was left with when I was done pulling the insulation out.
In this picture,



I still get wisps of insulation and paper falling down from time to time but that's no big deal. But you can see the moisture and mold problems in a few of the pictures.
Here's the fun little presents I found that were problems before and never fixed right. But this is what comes from "expanding" a garage improperly. I have not done much besides some halfassed stuff myself to plug up these holes as the entire roof is going to need to be replaced anyway. Like, completely. It's not congruent and the "joints" where the new roof for the extension meets the old roof all have issues.


Next up, the Pool House.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -

That was quite an undertaking!
Congrats on having the will to make it right no matter what.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
“Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured.”
--Mark Twain.
“If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving definitely isn't for you.” - Steven Wright -
So, the Pool House.
It was a 6 foot by 9 foot structure that was built on a slab. It was old. Like built in the 60's about the same time that the pool was put in. The deck was replaced some time in the late 70's, early 80's, I think, when modern pressure treated stuff first became widely available. The pool house was not built with such things and whomever built it understood nothing about draining water and grade levels.
So when we got here, the pool house was covered in vegetation. I didn't even realize it was there the first time we came and I thought that the 5th structure listed on the property was the gazebo on the island. But since that's not enclosed, it's not considered a structure for tax purposes.
I kinda ignore it for a bit because it smelled and I really wasn't looking forward to messing with it. But it was so overgrown that I did not know that a tree had fallen on it and broke windows. I found this out because during the summer of 2018, there was a rancid stink coming from it. I just figure it was a mold bloom because the lake got overrun with algae and mold too. Just a bunch of rain and really hot.
Yeah, no, I was wrong. A raccoon climbed in the busted window and couldn't get out. It died. Then a 2nd raccoon climbed in to go and dine on the first, festering raccoon carcass. It too perished.
Fun.
It also seems like someone used it as a bathroom. So as summer 2018 waned and things got colder, the stink went way down and with my new chainsaw and a bunch of other sharp things that you swing at stuff, I went and hacked the jungle back and shredded it all in the beast. I was going to work on taking it down in the summer of 2019 but, bathroom fun happened as well as the water tank repair so $3200 later I had no money for a dumpster rental 'cause there was no way I was cutting all that up, bagging it and dragging it to the curb.
So i rented the dumpster for the garage and took all that time off because the pool house was coming down. So in November of 2019, this is what it looked like. Keep in mind, this is AFTER I cleaned up around it.





So I enlisted the help of my friend Brian. He came down and helped me with this because he's just as if not more psycho than me in tackling such projects.
Went to pop the door off the hinges thinking I might be able to sell it to some idiot that does stuff like "Flea Market Flip" but the door was so soaked with water that the hing screws ripped right out leaving on the top hinge attached. So I persuaded it with my 4 pound persuader and it came off. We then emptied the pool house.
Next we pulled down all the panelling to see what the structure was and used the sawzall to start cutting fasteners at all the joints and pulling electrical. That is, after we traced down where the electrical was tied to. Because the day I did the garage, I took a break and went and checked the circuits and they all showed dead. The day of demo, they were live. Then they went dead, then they were live again. So we had an adventure there. Long story short, traced it back to a breaker in the service panel under the pool deck and the break lever actually wiggles inside it's housing. So fun.
Anyway, I cut the main line to the pool house with an ax because I was already passed my nerve limit for the day with it. We cut the fasteners on one side of the roof and we had hooked up the tractor with a cable to see if we could get it to flip over but the yard was too wet and the tractor would get it to just under half way over and start losing traction. So we had to try something different. Cue me with a 2x4 and Brian on the ladder to stead the roof while I re-positioned the 2x4 as teh roof went up.
It was heavy as a hell but we got it flipped off in one piece where I could cut it up with the sawzall.

Then I used the trailer I built to cart the whole thing to the dumpster after we cut it up in to more manageable chunks. This is a shot of the dumpster with just the roof and the broken door on top of the insulation.
We then proceeded to cut the rest of the building apart as we knocked the walls down in one piece.



We carted the junk up to the dumpster in the trailer and this shot was the last major load. It was also the shot right before the trailer hit a soft spot in the lawn and toppled over bending the front bracketry all to hell so I had to take 45 minutes to fix that to be able to keep using it.
Once we were done with the building, while Brian was cleaning up the small parts of the mess, I scraped up the asbestos tiles off the concrete pad.
This was the aftermath.

I'll rebuild the Pool House one day. I still have to clear more stuff around it because I want to build a waterwheel that will help me keep the lake and the channel that makes the island aerated and flowing with water.
That was a messy, disgusting building and I'm glad we were able to get it done. I thought I was going to have to pay someone because it was way too much work for me by myself. It was too much for me and Brian too.
Up next, The Outhouse. That story will conclude the saga of The Great Dumpster Rental of 2019.
Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
By the way, this Sawzall from Milwaukee?
It wasn't cheap but it was worth every penny I spent on it.
It came with two of those High Demand 9.0 batteries and it cut down the entire Pool House and only used about 3/5ths of the battery. The Outhouse beat it up good and killed a battery and a half worth of juice but you'll see why when I post that.
But everyone told me that a battery powered sawzall was a waste of time, should have gotten corded and while that's a legit concern and I took a chance here (figured I could just get some Horror Fraught pile of crap real quick incase this didn't work out) and the chance paid off in droves.
I have never used a sawzall this strong, corded or otherwise. It was such an impressive tool that Brian went and bought the same one after using this one all day. We beat the snot out of it on Pool House Day and it got given a hotter supper on Outhouse day too. It took it all and kept on truckin' like it was nothing. So if you need a sawzall, this one is pricey but it's, hands down, the best one money can buy. Period.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
Since it's so isolated I'm wondering why you didn't get a burning permit and burn the pool house rather than renting a dumpster for it? Heck with a 30 pack or 2 and a bud on a rainy day you could've cleaned up a lot of debris and had fun doing it to.
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Isolated or not, NJDEP would never go for that. Plus, there's a very real risk of starting a forest fire. A manual tear down and disposal was the responsible way to go here. No fire risk, no pollution or spillage into waterways and low impact to the environment.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I've got a 28v Milwaukee cordless set. Freaking amazing...

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I bought one of their corded super sawzall's a decade ago it was a beast. I believe it was 13 or 14amp and had a longer stroke of the blade.
Unfortunately someone stole it I was not able to buy another. I had given some thought to one like yours John but never knew anyone who had used or owned one. Very nice mini review.
I've liked and owned many tools but keep coming back to Milwaukee when the cheaper tool wears out.
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Hey hey! Look what I found! Improperly repaired water damage! Imagine that?
THANKS, CAPTAIN HALFASS!
Time to make a boatload of noise cutting the rot out.
At least it's not drafty. At least not any more than the window is. That's not installed right either.
Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
Gonna hafta put some nailers up so I can hang new sheetrock. At least I don't need this spot done to be able to continue with the room. Was planning on pulling the carpet and sanding the red oak floor underneath for my Christmas vacation.

Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
Gotta hand it to you. I'm in the middle of a simple bathroom remodel and am having thoughts of burning the place to the ground. Used to like this stuff, but am at the point where I'd rather just move and make it someone else's problem. Thing is, the house isn't that old, but apparently captain half-**** was a GC at some point and built our house. Stupid mother ****!
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So don't feel like writing more about it right now because I'm dead tired but this is what I did on my Christmas vacation.
That's just the first coat, BTW. Got at least 2 more to do
I'll write more later.
Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
So, I've been working on the office/lieberry at the house. In my previous abode, I converted one of the 3 bedrooms to a home office and had floor to ceiling bookshelves in the room. They were not built in despite looking like they were. I brought them all with me to the new house.
So the goal is to get those bookshelves modified and installed in the new house. However, I had to fix the problems with the room they were going in, first. Additionally, I found that the room had solid wood floors underneath the carpet.
In the corners, where I was able to easily check, the floor wasn't that bad. Had an orange tinge to it but really not too big of a deal. But that's important for later.
So you saw the pictures above with the water damage in the wall above the window. Well, I got that fixed, just needs to be painted. I didn't take too many pictures because all it entailed was cutting some 2x4's and some shims to get everything straight to the existing wall and then hanging sheetrock and mudding it out. It's still not perfect but the window was installed poorly (imagine that) and I leveled the sheetrock to the window and cut the ceiling in from there. But I didn't rip down big chunks of the ceiling and there's a bit of a dip where there's likely some swelled sheetrock from water damage. Most people would blow it off and not care or even notice but I notice and it bugs me. But it's a colossal effort to fix and I'm not doing it right now. Maybe in the future.
Anyhoo, no pictures of that, really. So, ends of the room, the floor was in fairly good shape. As I pulled up carpet, the fresh new hell got deeper and deeper.
Short story? Captain Halfass covered up water damage with new carpet and left it there to mold and rot under the carpet.
The whole story, now.
So I got the gray carpet up. This is the worst of the fun I found.
Doesn't look so bad, right?
You'd be incorrect.
This is why.
You see the 3rd and 4th boards in from the wall? The joint between them is raised an inch and a half off the subfloor, like a mountain ridge. I always wondered what was up with the bulge in the carpet there, why it would flex down and pop back up. Now I know.
What this is, basically, is water damage. The roof leaked above the window. I thought it was the window that leaked but when I pulled the trim, the frame was solid and dry. Also, the rot inside the wall...looks like Captain Halfass neglected the gutters and they filled up with crap and pushed water up, under the flat roof which then trickled down to where all the water damage was. It dripped down the window and seeped into the flooring where the old oak eagerly sucked it up and swelled.
That swelling caused cupping halfway across the room. Since Captain Halfass didn't do anything about it and just covered up the damage after the leaks were fixed, the cupping is permanent. The boards either need replacing or severe sanding.
In this picture, you can see the severity of the cupping progression from top to bottom as it gets closer to the wall. The first 2 feet of boards near the wall were cupped so bad that they flashed like a disco ball when you ran a flashlight beam across them.
This is a floor level view about halfway across the cupping
And this is where it finally starts to be stable wood again, about 6 feet from the wall.
So after assessing the entire floor, the boards directly under the leaking area were so far gone that they were not salvageable. So I got my hand oscillating cutter and pulled them out.

I even tried sanding them some to see and they were just bad. Here's where I had sanded again after I pulled the board. I wanted to see if these would clean up or start splintering and disintegrating under the sanding like the boards I removed did. Here you can see inklings of fresh wood which meant I could get to a fresh surface. Unlike where the boards I pulled out were mold blackened through most of the board.
Now here's where the fun starts, like pulling carpet, padding, tack strips and staples wasn't the fun part!
I thought I was working with 3/4ths inch thick flooring or at least 5/8ths 'cause the extension is fairly new and would have been the oak flooring in everything else from the 50's and 60's around here.
Nope.
3/8ths thick tongue and groove...or, rather, bevel and groove. One side of the boards are a V-notch, the other side is a double bevel that makes a V that fits the V-notch. This floor is quite old because I talked to a flooring guy and he told me that this would have been what's called a "contractor grade" now and fell out of use around 1955-1957 when more modern, precision milled stuff started hitting the market. Given that this extension on the house was put in around then, this floor is about 65 years old or so. Problem with that is...fat chance finding it. About all you can find is the straight oak boards and even then, they are 5/8ths thick which was too thick for this application.
So what I had to do was I went and bought four 1 x 8 x 6 red oak boards. I then ripped them down to 1 x 2 x 6 boards which were still too thick. So my dad set his saw up to rip down 1/2 inch thick boards from those 1 x 2 x 6 boards. We then ran them through the planer and took off 3/32nds. We didn't cut them down to 3/8ths because it would allow me to sand them down to level with the surrounding boards. Those surrounding boards weren't 3/8ths even the entire length because of the water damage. So here's the new red oak boards in the repair.
I ended up face nailing them with 1 1/4" 16 gauge nails since there was no tongue to nail in to. We tried cutting the bevels and Vs to match but as precise as my dad's tools are, we couldn't get it done. So I face nailed them with the tiny nails so you can't even tell. All I did was sand them with the wood and then a little dab of a dark brown stain on the now shiny heads and they disappeared in the polyurethane.
Thing is, though, remember that orange tinge I mentioned? Well, when I started sanding, which you can see in the top of the picture with the repair, there was a host of odors from pet accidents to how the floor in my grandmother's bedroom smelled when she became incontinent. So that was fun. But once I got to the parts that didn't have those smells, there was more than just the woody, pencil shaving smell that oak has. There was a sweet smell, like shellac. Given the orange tinge and when the floor was installed, there's a 95% probability that the floor was shellacked when installed. Since the compounds needed, polyether polyols, to make polyurethane varnish were not introduced by DuPont until about 1956 and didn't see wide-spread use outside of new construction until about 1960, shellacked oak floors were what was done prior.
OK, so big deal?
Well, it is. 'Cause I started sanding spots that were gouged to see how deep the damage went given how thin the floor boards were. What I found was the vibration was making what looked like localized finish damage pop up in huge blisters. Especially around the water damage.
You know what it looked like? Did you ever go to a bar, sit at the bar and the bar's top finish has these cloudy, orangey-yellow splotches everywhere? That's what happens when you get a nick in the top coat, water gets in to it and you put hot and cold stuff on it. The finish layers separate and the cloudy splotches are space between layers. It happens most often when someone takes dissimilar finishes and covers one with the other. Like putting polyurethane over shellac or acrylic over lacquer.
Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I mean, it's possible to do it but you need to prep the old surface first with sanding and then sealing to make sure you get anything unstable off so it doesn't keep the new top finish from bonding and you need to seal it so that something like a solvent in the acrylic doesn't cause the lacquer bond on the surface to weaken and cause it to delaminate. Then your new finish comes up with the old finish and leaves bare wood beneath it where it will eventually gray from water and UV damage and possibly mold up too causing further issues.
Guess how Captain Halfass "refinished" this floor?
So now I have spot water damage from careless furniture moving that is splitting and splintering board surfaces randomly and I have excessive cupping that has long since dried out under pressure and permanently cupped the boards.
Cupping, BTW, is when floor boards get wet and they swell. They want to expand laterally but can't because they are butt up against each other. So they smash together causing ridges at the joints, just like plate tectonics. This gives the boards a convex shape and makes them reflect light like a disco ball facet. If the water damage is fresh, you fix the leak and let the floor dry out. Most times, it will uncup itself. But if you don't let the floor dry out before you do something with it, it won't uncup. If you sand a floor that hasn't dried and uncupped yet, it will dry after your sanding and uncup itself. But now, since the edges of the boards are now thinner than the centers, you get crowning. I have this problem too from Captain Halfass' half-assed finished floor repairs elsewhere in the house.
This floor is not likely to crown, though, because of age and moisture levels. But, I had to grind down about 1/16th of an inch just to get rid of the cupping. Doesn't seem like a lot but, now I still have to take off the finish which is another sixteenth of an inch. This leaves me with a 1/4 inch thick floor which means that if this floor needs repair again, it needs to be replaced. It also means that the top edges of the grooves are very thin and extra susceptible to cracking/splintering and causing deep grooves at the joints which let dirt and moisture in, under the floor. I should have gotten two more refinishings out of this but no. Captain Halfass had to screw it up with piss poor scuff sanding and putting polyurethane down over degrading shellac that wasn't stabilized. So because he couldn't be bothered to do it right, the floor's lifetime is cut short significantly.
So I started sanding just to see and repair what was needed before calling a sanding company to come in and refinish it or rent a drum sander and do it myself. Well, with how thin and damaged the floors were, all I could picture was a drum sander hitting it, snagging splintered spots and throwing planks out like a rapid fire Pez dispenser. So I decided instead to do it with a belt sander because I could adapt to the conditions easier. Thankfully it was only about 290 square feet but that $50 (on sale) Harbor Freight, Bauer brand Makita knock-off belt sander took it all and asked for more. I burned through 16 belts in total. 12 for the first sanding and 4 for the finish sanding. With the level of damage from furniture wear, neglect and a hamfisted sanding with a drum sander prior to my ownership, it came out pretty well. Oh, also, there was fresh damage which looked to be from a moving dolly for moving gun safes. They typically have solid steel wheels with non-skid urethane liners and you're supposed to use something to protect the floor but Captain Halfass didn't. I know this because there were two arched dents in the floor that came out of the closet, wiggled a bit and then resumed the arc through the door to the room. So thanks for that parting shot, Captain Halfass, you're a peach!
Here's the start of the sanding
This is at the end of the first sanding.
Yes, those are my clothes, no I did not take the picture naked. I left the dusty clothes in the room with the rest of the dust instead of dragging it all over the house.
This is the first coat of the water based polyurethane which, everybody was like DON'T USE IT! and I'm not sure why 'cause it worked great! Only issue I ran in to was as soon as the poly hit the floor in some spots, the grain raised almost immediately. That would have happened with oil based to. I didn't sand it too much, though, because, well, the floor's paper thin already. So there's rough spots.
So here's the first coat, it's splotchy 'cause 65-70 year old oak boards will suck up a new finish like a fat kid eating cupcakes. It evened out though and I ended up putting on 5 coats.
This is the finished product.

In this picture, you can see some of the damage I wasn't able to sand out completely. This is damage from a motorized hospital bed shimmying around on the floor as the mattress goes up and down. Captain Halfass had his elderly mother living here and this was her room until she needed to go to a nursing facility.
This kind of damage is all over the floor as well as gouging from a poor sanding job prior to me and I was worried that the polyurethane was going to make it all pop out. But unless you are standing over it and deliberately looking at it, you don't see it. Most of it will be covered under bookcases and area rugs anyway.
The only way I could have made this better was to replace the floor completely.
Also, the walls are only primered. They will be painted a sandy tan and the bookcases will have a red mahogany finish despite being made from white birch plywood.
Here's the trash pile from fixing the water damage in the floor and wall, painting the walls and ceiling, removing the carpet and sanding and finishing the floors. There's 8 trash bags and 12 rolls of cut up carpet. Trash dudes took it all this morning too.
Glad this is done. I was dreading it because of all the problems I found. I didn't expect the rot in the wall to be so bad and I lost a day and a half because of that. Otherwise, I would have the color on the walls too.
But this is what I did on my Christmas Vacation. I finished the work on Saturday the 2nd and started the polyurethane. I did the last coat at 6:30 AM on Sunday to get in on the drying time window. Then I went back to bed. I could barely move on Sunday. Still aching in spots and I have an injured tendon in my leg that keeps going numb but it's getting better day by day!
Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!






