Infinity RSII....??? Any one had ears on them?
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Big Kudo to Gardenstarter: Fantastic example of what this community (forum) is all about.
Thanks I am living vicariously through Chris right now because I have ALWAYS wanted a pair of these speakers, well actually the IRS - V big boys to be honest.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Looks like a fun / spendy project on the crossovers. You'll need to source some good computer grade electrolytics for the large caps (which are probably WAY past their prime). I would leave the sand cast resistor as I tried replacing mine in my RS4000's with Mills/Vishay and they just didn't sound right. Also the 3 inductors that are right next to one another should have the middle one rotated 90 degrees to prevent interference ( unless Infinity designed them for that...).
Let us know how them sound with the Hafler XL600.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
I was planning to change all the caps and resistors but after @audioluvr experience Im ok with leaving the sand cast in there. And after seeing that point to point wiring I'm thinking they need to stay in the enclosure.
Thanks to @EndersShadow for all the pics and info too. -
Oh, I do have the screens for the rear of the mids and tweeters. The foam was hard and crumbled at the touch. I removed it before bringing them into the house. Is will be replaced soon.
As far as the deoxit would a can of automotive electrical contact cleaner work? -
Keep your eye open for sales on caps. They happen from time to time and sometimes you can get very good discounts. When Clarity Cap went from the ESA's to the CSA's the old line was marked down 50%. That adds up with big cap values.
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@EndersShadow as far as using the cv8 I may have to re think that. Main reason is that this Hafler is to big and runs to hot to put in my inwall space where my Carver sits. I may have to run it in between the two infinity at the front of the room and use my 25 ft long RG6 to RCA wires. If I do that then I can use the AQ CV8 wires from the Hafler to the speakers.
The only reason I was going to use them in the first place is I had no where to use them . -
For the 1600 and 600 uf caps what do you guys recommend? Does voltage ratings matter? I was looking at Mouser for those.
As far as the rest of the caps I'll probably be using Mundorf from Parts Conexion -
The same voltage or higher on all caps.
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@EndersShadow as far as using the cv8 I may have to re think that. Main reason is that this Hafler is to big and runs to hot to put in my inwall space where my Carver sits. I may have to run it in between the two infinity at the front of the room and use my 25 ft long RG6 to RCA wires. If I do that then I can use the AQ CV8 wires from the Hafler to the speakers.
The only reason I was going to use them in the first place is I had no where to use them .
If you were talking about using them as normal speaker wires then no problem.
I though you were talking about using CV8 speaker wire to replace the EXISTING INTERNAL WIRING.... which woulda been a WTH moment"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
EndersShadow wrote: »@EndersShadow as far as using the cv8 I may have to re think that. Main reason is that this Hafler is to big and runs to hot to put in my inwall space where my Carver sits. I may have to run it in between the two infinity at the front of the room and use my 25 ft long RG6 to RCA wires. If I do that then I can use the AQ CV8 wires from the Hafler to the speakers.
The only reason I was going to use them in the first place is I had no where to use them .
If you were talking about using them as normal speaker wires then no problem.
I though you were talking about using CV8 speaker wire to replace the EXISTING INTERNAL WIRING.... which woulda been a WTH moment
You are correct. I was going to use them for the internal rewire. But now it looks like I have a use for them as they were intended for as regular speaker wires.
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I’m down for that* should it happen - no rush though!Keep your eye open for sales on caps. They happen from time to time and sometimes you can get very good discounts. When Clarity Cap went from the ESA's to the CSA's the old line was marked down 50%. That adds up with big cap values.
Several years ago I jumped on a similar* sale* (CC, PX 68uf @ $25!) when I was in the market for DC blocking caps. I’m in the market for two more. I’d like these to be upscale from the PXs and higher(?), larger(?), bigger. Like...these: vendor on eBay has a bunch of PX 82uf for sale @ $40.
URGENT Side note: check the Haf 600’s DC offset. Earlier today read a thread: DC offset is not adjustable. Doesn’t sound right as both XL series use the same driver boards & I KNOW the 280 has a DC offset adjustment.
Good fortune to you. Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Keep your eye open for sales on caps. They happen from time to time and sometimes you can get very good discounts. When Clarity Cap went from the ESA's to the CSA's the old line was marked down 50%. That adds up with big cap values.
I was lucky enough to be modding my 1.2tl’s at that time. Saved me a bunch of money on some great caps. -
I got the Hafler hooked up. This should say it all.
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Yeah man that's awesome2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
I've never heard one before but I have to be skeptical that this amp is OEM and just put a a$$whooping on my refurbed and modded Carver TFM-45. Plus, I feel much more comfortable turning it up to ludicrous volumes.
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Now I have to figure out a set up for the amp and center channel. I also mot want to move my custom 2-10 inch CMMD Infinity subwoofer to the front of the room.
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This thing is a beast.
I was pushing it pretty hard and the speakers were playing loud and crystal clear.
I went a little higher during a vocal portion of a Sam Smith song and I blew both 5 amp 250 v fuses near the speaker outputs on the Hafler. Was this protection for the amp or the speakers? Did I drive the amp to hard? Sounded great until it just went out. -
The Haflers of many varieties are well-regarded. There's part of me that wants an XL600 for my own use; but I've been able to resist so far.I've never heard one before but I have to be skeptical that this amp is OEM and just put a a$$whooping on my refurbed and modded Carver TFM-45. Plus, I feel much more comfortable turning it up to ludicrous volumes.
I don't know what goes into a "refurbed and modded" TFM-45. I know that the M1.0 still seems to be King Doggie at the Carver forum I pay attention to. Any chance there's an actual problem with the Carver? Have you checked the bias, and for DC Offset?
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Those speakers are a demanding load, and they just let you know they need more if you want the speakers to give more. I would not challenge them again until you have them fully sorted and go to some pretty stout mono blocks. That' the only way you can protect them from this guy...
The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
Ok i just found this in the manual. Looks like I can put some 10 amp fuses in there. They are not intended to provide protection for the amp at all. They are intended for the speakers. It says if I do 10 amp fuses, there is no protection for the speakers. Maybe I should try 7 amp fuses. Or just go right to the 10amp.
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The Haflers of many varieties are well-regarded. There's part of me that wants an XL600 for my own use; but I've been able to resist so far.I've never heard one before but I have to be skeptical that this amp is OEM and just put a a$$whooping on my refurbed and modded Carver TFM-45. Plus, I feel much more comfortable turning it up to ludicrous volumes.
I don't know what goes into a "refurbed and modded" TFM-45. I know that the M1.0 still seems to be King Doggie at the Carver forum I pay attention to. Any chance there's an actual problem with the Carver? Have you checked the bias, and for DC Offset?
The Carver was completely gone through and all service notices were done. Offset and bias were set after a 72 hour burn in from the recap. All consumable parts changed as well as shielded mic cable being used.
This Hafler just exudes power and control. Bass is better and fuller. The highs are a bit bright but that may be a combination of the Hafler and the planar EMIT tweeters. I will be doing some fine tuning on the top end for sure. I think i need to bring 14k to 20k down a few db. They are; however, as crisp and detailed as any tweeter I've used in this room. They can really sizzle.
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Do NOT EVER go up in value on a fuse, EVER!!! It's worse than crossing the streams.
The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
The manual says they even included 10 amp fuses for high power applications.
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The manual also says you lose protection for the speakers if you use them. I would not be willing to take that bet with a set of Infinity RS.The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
How long ago? Any chance something shifted in shipping?The Carver was completely gone through and all service notices were done. Offset and bias were set after a 72 hour burn in from the recap. All consumable parts changed as well as shielded mic cable being used.
The Carver was specifically-tuned (Transfer Function Modified--TFM) to increase the output impedance. If I remember correctly, there's a 1- or 1.5-ohm resistor between the output transistors and the speaker-wire terminals. That'll round-off the bass, and maybe drop the tweeter volume a bit.This Hafler just exudes power and control. Bass is better and fuller. The highs are a bit bright but that may be a combination of the Hafler and the planar EMIT tweeters. I will be doing some fine tuning on the top end for sure. I think i need to bring 14k to 20k down a few db. They are; however, as crisp and detailed as any tweeter I've used in this room. They can really sizzle.
I'd just love to hear what you think AFTER you've been through the nulling process with that amp and those speakers. 'Course, you might want to wait on that until after you've reconditioned the speakers, or you'd need to null the amp again, when the new caps 'n' whatnot have been installed.
The XL600 would have been "factory adjusted" to "typical speakers", but that was a long time ago, and they're not powering "typical speakers".
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How many peak dB did you reach in the room from the RS IIs when the fuses melted?
Also, have you located a manual for the RS II, since unfortunately that one I found was for RS IIb? I would think that would have some advice on recommended fuses needed for protection, at least in non-clipping situations. Clipping might be a whole 'nother ballgame, but hopefully out of the question with your Hafler.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
@Schurkey, this amp was done this year. I guess anything is possible. Dont get me wrong, I think the Carver sounds great. But after a side by side comparison on the same speakers and same source material, I think this Hafler just sounds better. Believe me, it hurts me to say that about my Carver. But the Hafler just sound better to me. This is my first Hafler.
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Gardenstater wrote: »How many peak dB did you reach in the room from the RS IIs when the fuses melted?
Also, have you located a manual for the RS II, since unfortunately that one I found was for RS IIb? I would think that would have some advice on recommended fuses needed for protection, at least in non-clipping situations. Clipping might be a whole 'nother ballgame, but hopefully out of the question with your Hafler.
No idea as I was not running a meter at the time. But I've had that room louder with another set up before and IIRC I was hitting 116 db. It was not that loud in the room when I blew the fuses. Other than that its anyone's guess. -
I'm going to pick up some 10 amp fuses tomorrow. I'll just be careful with the volume. Like I said I was on a vocal section of the song with no bass or instruments. It was loud but not stupid loud. So I'm sure these speakers will definitely use and like some current. If they have 8 amp fuses I may just go with them instead of ten.
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Hafler specs a 10-amp fuse for high-power applications. They're even included with the amp, just not installed. Given that these speakers drop well below 4-ohms for a fair part of the frequency range...yeah, I'd stuff in the 10-amp fuses.nooshinjohn wrote: »Do NOT EVER go up in value on a fuse, EVER!!!
My own stereo amps are wired a little differently. Instead of a single 10-amp fuse in-line between output transistors and the output terminals, there's a pair of 10-amp fast-blow fuses for each channel on the voltage rails supplying the output transistors. 10 amps for the + transistors, 10 amps for the - transistors; so 20 amps peak-to-peak, each channel, continuous until the temperature of the heat sinks activates the protection circuitry.
10-amp fuses are generally glass. At 12 amperes (which is what the monoblocks take) the fuses are ceramic because apparently glass fuses aren't reliable-enough when breaking the circuit.
