Infinity RSII....??? Any one had ears on them?

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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    ek7ugn0nup6y.jpg
    This is what I'm using. r9et7n21x53e.jpg
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,554
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    Umm Tony? Lol
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
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    Holy Cannoli!! Dude, I am so-o sorry. I had imagined something for more straight forward for a re-wire* 🙏🙏🙏😢.

    Is it too late to consider something else*?! 🙏🙏🙏

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
    edited January 2020
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    Wow! I had to do the math and 16,18,19, and 20 gauge do indeed equal 12 gauge! However the maximum size I'd want to go to avoid the skin effect where the impedance of the wire is increased for the high frequencies due to the electrons preferring to travel at the surface is around 20 gauge. Actually I've usually heard 23 gauge. You've got 4 wires to twist together but I'm assuming they aren't enameled.

    I guess what I'm sayin' is if it were me, I'd use that wire for the mids and woofers, but, and taking into account that I'm probably OCD, I'd use 11.5 gauge Cardas 6N Litz for the EMITs. They're a crown jewel of that speaker and you wouldn't want to go to all that work and then have any doubts afterwards. My 2c.

    https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Umm Tony? Lol

    My bad, I quoted the wrong guy. Lol it should had been @EndersShadow getting it right that the rewire is going to be difficult and time consuming.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    I took a old AC cord and cut the plug off and will use it to power the DBS field. Should be cool to have 120v over 36v when I plug it into the wall.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
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    Pretty extensive info here about the development of Audioquest Cable Theory and product lines: http://tools.audioquest.com/downloads/literature/technical_papers/AudioQuest_cable_theory.pdf
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
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    ANYTHING heavier than the original wire connecting the woofers, would improve the bass SQ. Same holds true for the lower* registers*!of the mids, something you may or may not like.
    *depends upon the HP frequency/slope

    While I HP’d my CC @ 80hz* as do many others, the first re-wire made ALL male voices, especially those like Darth Vader thick. The Tri-amp made “worse😊! So I “trimmed” (EQd) a little off the bottom couple of octaves - no 🍅s please🙏
    *can’t recall Outlaw’s slope

    So take these next steps carefully & patiently. Regardless of what wire you use*, the short term “pain & suffering**” is well worth the long term*** benefits***.
    *ANYTHING will improve - that OLD wire probably has some corrosion you can’t see
    **a one time thing unless you’re OCD
    ***until you die, sell them, or some other extreme life changing event

    May your fingers stay clear of your soldering iron. Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
    edited January 2020
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    Just finished fishing. No luck at all man! So after a short nap I'll start working on the RSII. I'll throw up some more pics in a bit. I found a really helpful thread over at AK where a member did a refresh on his.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
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    I found this brochure at AK. Maybe you and others would be interested:

    http://www.infinity-classics.de/models/Reference-series-1+b-2-10+A+B-1981-86/Reference-Standard-II/RS_II_Brochure_02.jpg

    a7cgp03nuhno.jpg
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
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    Also found this technical manual page:

    u5tfi3974qgq.png
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
    edited January 2020
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    RS II Lab Test article w/ full measurements

    https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/rs-ii-lab-test-article-w-full-measurements.621716/

    Impedance curve which I was wondering about (yikes!). Definitely goes below 4 Ohms, down to 3 and 2 Ohms in places:

    dpbthroskpot.png
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    Looks like I am getting the Hafler XL600. After reading those lab tests I'm glad I'm getting it. Dont want to destroy my Carver.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
    edited January 2020
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    From: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/rs-ii-lab-test-article-w-full-measurements.621716/page-2

    His Onkyo A-9070 amp which he said is rated at clean 140W into 4 Ohms went into protection mode with the RS II's.

    7jqh6yrehdfx.png
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
    edited January 2020
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    Gardenstater wrote: »
    From: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/rs-ii-lab-test-article-w-full-measurements.621716/page-2

    His Onkyo C-7030 amp which he said is rated at clean 140W into 4 Ohms went into protection mode with the RS II's.

    7jqh6yrehdfx.png

    Another reason I'm waiting in a parking lot right now to pick up this Hafler. I'm glad we were able to make a deal.
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    Got it. It weighs every bit of 50lbs. fkxzqg796v31.jpg
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
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    Foam on the Mids in back:

    https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/infinity-rs-ii-restoration.860833/
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    @Gardenstater thanks man. You have been providing some great links! Thank you sir.

    Chris
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    CH46E wrote: »
    I took a old AC cord and cut the plug off and will use it to power the DBS field. Should be cool to have 120v over 36v when I plug it into the wall.

    Yall know I was kidding right?
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    Here is a before and after a little cleaning.
    clfi0tbctcm8.jpg
    pb0gnujsgh0b.jpg
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,311
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    Lookin' good, Chris!

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
    edited January 2020
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    I tried to take the woofers out today but they are in there really good. I did not want to put a flat head driver under the rim and mar up the wood. I just put the screws back in and will give it more attention tomorrow. I may try a dead shot hammer on a small wood dowel on the rim of the woofer basket.

    Also with all the space on the back of the woofer enclosure behind the mids I may try to set the crossovers up there. I think it would look cool to have the crossovers outboard but not viewable from the listening position.

    q2ny3ar7ihfi.jpg
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  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    h9cjxpf9xbyf.jpg
    The face of the woofer enclosure has some weird finish and texture. I may just clean it off, give it a light sanding and spray paint a gloss black finish with a clear coat.
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,093
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    Get some glue on those bottom edges of the speaker frames. One of your pictures showed some potential delamination.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
    edited January 2020
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    CH46E wrote: »
    h9cjxpf9xbyf.jpg
    The face of the woofer enclosure has some weird finish and texture. I may just clean it off, give it a light sanding and spray paint a gloss black finish with a clear coat.

    I noticed in the RS II brochure above, the woofer enclosure was veneered instead of the speckle paint. I think I liked it better.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • CH46E
    CH46E Posts: 3,546
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    nooshinjohn wrote: »
    Get some glue on those bottom edges of the speaker frames. One of your pictures showed some potential delamination.

    I'm not 100% sure what you mean here. Speaker frames? Or the vaneer on the bottom of the cabinet where it meets the floor?
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,093
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    Bottom of the cabinet...
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,181
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    I read on the Audiokarma forum that those large furniture gliders are useful for moving the speakers around on, so as to not further chip out the veneer.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,528
    edited January 2020
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    CH46E wrote: »
    Also with all the space on the back of the woofer enclosure behind the mids I may try to set the crossovers up there. I think it would look cool to have the crossovers outboard but not viewable from the listening position.

    I love your passion, but the crossover is too large for that to fit given the curvature of the top section, unless you build spacers, etc, which I'd not suggest. Have you opened them up to get a look at it?

    13984303298_3d2a86c7f8_b.jpg

    Its screwed and glued to the back of the top woofer enclosure and is point to point wiring, so its not as easy as say Gimpods Boards.


    14167609221_26e877b1fd_b.jpg

    Honestly a re-wire would be enough of a PITA. I'd not recommend using CV-8 wire for that. If your dead set on it, I'd honestly order some of Dougs Furez 14/4, strip the outer jacket from it, and use that for your wiring. Flexible, cheaper, easier to route, overall a better option IMHO. It would still require you to drill out more space to feed the wires, especially between the crossover and the mid's/tweeters.

    Also something to mention, in theory you should have a rear grill AND some material covering the woofers so its dampened a bit. Mounting the crossover would mess with the open baffle configuration as well

    blogInfinity%2BRSII-5.jpg
    blogInfinity%2BRSII-10.jpg


    I've had a pair, and gone down the rabbit hole in planning to upgrade them, so here are my final thoughts on what I'd do.

    Minimum (cheap, easy to do)
    -Reseal cabinets
    -Regasket crossover portion of top woofer to ensure its sealed too
    -De-oxit the pots on the crossover
    -Clean drivers and wood
    -Verify surrounds still good, perhaps add add'l glue to the dust cap

    Max (pricey and gonna take some time)
    -Re-wire
    -Re-do crossovers (think REALLY HARD about the components you SHOULD replace v the ones you may WANT to
    -Re-veneer - good luck, I'd not tackle that at all
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
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    CH46E wrote: »
    @Gardenstater thanks man. You have been providing some great links! Thank you sir.

    Chris
    Big Kudo to Gardenstarter: Fantastic example of what this community (forum) is all about.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter