Infinity RSII....??? Any one had ears on them?
Comments
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I'm passing on the Hafler for now. If someone wants the seller's info I can pass it along. I'll see if I can post a link.
I can help with the purchase if he wont ship. I can box it up and mail it for a good standing established member. -
Check out this HAFLER XL600 Sound amplifier for $210 on OfferUp https://offerup.co/HLckd6RRa3
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Passing on that unit with rust inside is a good idea
Looks like it was exposed to moisture/salt air2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
I did not see the pics of the inside until now. He must have added them tonight.
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I did not see the pics of the inside until now. He must have added them tonight.
I did ask last night and I thought he was going to text me pics but I guess he just uploaded them.
That rust does not look all that bad. Especially for FL. Looks like it might have been without AC for a bit. Components seem to look ok. But....... I'm not professional so take that with a grain of salt. -
Anyone know if there are 8 more transistors on the bottom of that heat sink?
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Fairly certain that the '600 has 16 output transistors, 4 groups of 4; 4 NPN and 4 PNP per channel.
I don't see that the "rust" is a concern. It's primarily on the bells of the transformer--sheetmetal that didn't get a proper coat of paint. The rust doesn't seem that bad, particularly for a unit that lived in Florida; and probably only got used one day a week.
I was talking to my Hafler-lovin' buddy today. He wants to retire to a bigass diesel motor-home and tour the USA in a few years. I asked him how he was going to power his Home Theater--speakers, power amps, etc. He laughed and said it was all gonna go on eBay. I told him that I think he's making a mistake. But that's coming from a guy who's had his Big Boy amps in storage for three years and counting. So I guess I'm the hypocrite. I suppose I should sell the Acurus and move some of the Biggun's to the main room. (I haven't so far 'cause there's not enough electricity to feed 'em.) -
Sorry for comin’ late to the party w/this:
https://hafler.com/pdf/archive/XL-600_amp_man.pdf
https://elektrotanya.com/hafler_xl-600_amplifier_schematic.pdf/download.html
I know few things about Hafler amps unmentioned so far. Most of what I know is XL-280 specific that contrasts the DH amps
1: the DH 200 series & XL-280s all use MOSFETs in the finals. Cant say about their hire powered brethren.
2. XL series (ie 280 & 600) use the same driver boards - that right the 600 is essentially a higher powered 280 - I leave you to learn why
3. Unlike an unmodified DH200/220, the 280 power supply has separate L&R bridge rectifiers (BR) & cap bank’s approaching dual mono in a common chassis for the finals. Further the driver boards use separate transformer secondaries & PS circuitry providing higher voltage rails (72V?) versus the finals’ 65V(?). By contrast the 200/220 PS is just a single RB and 2 caps
4. if you take the time* to search the DIYaudio forum you’ll find an enormous info base for the DH series, mostly 200/220, but not much on the XLs. In that community, it’s well known that Hafler used all the knowledge from the relentless DH tweekers to develop the much improved XL series, leaving little “tweekability” on the table.
*hundreds of replies on a one thread
Cant recall if the 600 has high current capabilities to go w/its 1 ohm stability to feed those new toys of yours. Nor do I know how many or type of final devices in the 600. The 280* has 6 MOSFETs* per channel; peaked at a mere 8 amperes though stable into 2 ohms.
*the 200/280 4 per channel
Gotta boogie - time for church. TonyPost edited by gp4jesus onSamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
The RS-II woofers are in separate enclosures BUT they have a hole between the two for wires to go though.
My pair had a putty type sealant around the wires, but that doesn’t mean that there can’t be leakage"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Addendum/Correction: the 200/220 has 4 per channel.
The 280 might handle the M&T (top) as it does well into reactive loads.
Please don’t take this as a Hafler sales pitch* - for other speakers, the XL series should do well
*I own (and owned) a few Haflers from both series.
CH46E: if your situation allows, consider re-wiring your speakers (woofers*; mids**) w/better wire. Your SQ, especially the bass, will thank you. Check my sig - I practice what I preach
*at least 12 ga
**at least 14 ga
Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Addendum/Correction: the 200/220 has 4 per channel.
The 280 might handle the M&T (top) as it does well into reactive loads.
Please don’t take this as a Hafler sales pitch* - for other speakers, the XL series should do well
*I own (and owned) a few Haflers from both series.
CH46E: if your situation allows, consider re-wiring your speakers (woofers*; mids**) w/better wire. Your SQ, especially the bass, will thank you. Check my sig - I practice what I preach
*at least 12 ga
**at least 14 ga
Tony
Dude.... the RS-II isn’t a basic speaker, the wiring is a PITA and you have VERY TIGHT tolerances as it passes through the various boxes to the crossover.
He would HAVE to drill out the speakers more, and I’d be hesitant to do that."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Priorities...
CH46E: if your situation allows...
That load is:
1. lower than what’s “typically low.” Even Bi-amped, for that reason alone, peak currents are substantially greater.
2. Far more reactive than most...
His SQ would profit greatly overcoming the PITA factor!
Post edited by gp4jesus onSamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
Priorities...
CH46E: if your situation allows...
That is actually going to be done when I remove all the drivers to clean up the cabinets. I have 20ft of AudioQuest CV8+ speaker wire I'm going to break down and use in these RSII. -
My DH500 had surface rust on the Tformer. It was not an issue.Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
As I started to clean them up a little with some Murphy's Oil Soap I could not help but think how awesome these would look in a solid Burl Black Walnut or a nice dark Zebra wood. Oh man. I wish I new how to photo shop a pair like that.
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I'm really surprised at how much gunk is comming off these. They dont look bad but I know they can look and smell a little better.Post edited by CH46E on
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That's great! So what did you decide about the woofer? Is it frozen or failed somehow?George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Gardenstater wrote: »That's great! So what did you decide about the woofer? Is it frozen or failed somehow?
Its definitely not frozen. I just dont think it's working. I have not removed it yet to test. Plus I cant find my negative lead for my Fluke. No clue as to what happened to it. -
During half time I played some tunes. These Infinities REALLY like power. Just when I think they are maxed out they just keep going. Tonight is the first time I've ever seen the meters on the Carver hit over 180 watts. Never been near that before and these beauties loved it. When I was done (half time was over) I felt the amp and it's only slightly warm to the touch.
I have a 3nl day weekend this week and will take all the driver out then and check them all for resistance. -
This is after a re-Wipe on the same area I did 3 hours earlier.
Normal???? -
Murphy's Oil Soap may be softening the finish, you may be removing it.
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Could be some previous owner stain coming off?
Glad you get some power into them. Fingers crossed about that woofer.
my 3.1TLs
I will fix your shifted magnets for free.
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Could be cigarette tar or from a wood stove. But then again I don't use Murphy's so like @pitdogg2 said, could be softening some finish. Personally I only use Old English on raw wood.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
Thanks for all the info guys.
I see these on the bay. They seem like a good deal. Seem to be quality parts. Is there any reason I should not get them? Is the install something I should send to a pro for. I know how to solder but have NEVER handled a planar tweeter.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/132954597609 -
I thought I'd been following the thread but I didn't know you had an EMIT problem, just a possible woofer malfunction. Those tweeters aren't as flat frequency response as I would've thought. Does the speaker use some active equalization circuitry to flatten the response, or is there overlap with the mids to flatten the overall response?
George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
I dont know but I feel the tweeters are not 100%.
These speakers are going to get more attention and funding from me than any other speakers I've owned. Just wanting to make sure I do them right and wanted to get new planar tweeters. -
Dang, sorry to hear the EMITs may have issues too. my 3.1TLs
I will fix your shifted magnets for free. -
They might be fine, I just want a second pair to compare to and if they are fine I want a second set for backups before they get any more costly.
These speakers sound awesome. My only complaint (I may need to play with the toe) imaging. Not quite as good as the RTA12B in my room. -
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EndersShadow wrote: »Addendum/Correction: the 200/220 has 4 per channel.
The 280 might handle the M&T (top) as it does well into reactive loads.
Please don’t take this as a Hafler sales pitch* - for other speakers, the XL series should do well
*I own (and owned) a few Haflers from both series.
CH46E: if your situation allows, consider re-wiring your speakers (woofers*; mids**) w/better wire. Your SQ, especially the bass, will thank you. Check my sig - I practice what I preach
*at least 12 ga
**at least 14 ga
Tony
Dude.... the RS-II isn’t a basic speaker, the wiring is a PITA and you have VERY TIGHT tolerances as it passes through the various boxes to the crossover.
He would HAVE to drill out the speakers more, and I’d be hesitant to do that.
Tony, you got that right. I just took a good look at the wiring and good lord it's going to be a PITA and probably require all of the CV8 wire I have. But since I cant use them anywhere else, it's not a bad place to use $500 worth of wire.
https://youtu.be/yXaVErRn6u4