In need of some construction advice.
daddyjt
Posts: 1,433
I am torn on this decision, and would like some input from you guys, as I hold a great deal of respect for your opinion.
My conundrum lies in the door swing in the home theater I am building. In the sketches below, you can see that the entrance to my new theater room is in the front right corner (I would have preferred a mid-wall entrance, but that was not an option). If I have the traditional in-swing door (32”), that leaves only 70” between the front speakers, after allowing for the door swing and rest against the front wall, and symmetrical speaker placement.
What I want to do, is install the door as an out-swing, which easily allows for about 88” between the speakers. I know it is not traditional for the door to a room to swing out into the hallway, but in this application, I think it makes a lot of sense. I checked local codes, and this poses no violation. The hallway is not narrow at all, at 40”, so the door resting out there would pose no constriction of movement into the room.
As an added bonus, I already have a 32” right hinge door, so this would save $70 on construction.
What think you all? Is this something I will regret later, or should I go for it?
My conundrum lies in the door swing in the home theater I am building. In the sketches below, you can see that the entrance to my new theater room is in the front right corner (I would have preferred a mid-wall entrance, but that was not an option). If I have the traditional in-swing door (32”), that leaves only 70” between the front speakers, after allowing for the door swing and rest against the front wall, and symmetrical speaker placement.
What I want to do, is install the door as an out-swing, which easily allows for about 88” between the speakers. I know it is not traditional for the door to a room to swing out into the hallway, but in this application, I think it makes a lot of sense. I checked local codes, and this poses no violation. The hallway is not narrow at all, at 40”, so the door resting out there would pose no constriction of movement into the room.
As an added bonus, I already have a 32” right hinge door, so this would save $70 on construction.
What think you all? Is this something I will regret later, or should I go for it?
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn
Comments
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Any way to install a pocket door?SDA SRS 1.2TL's
SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Any way to install a pocket door?
Unfortunately no:-(
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
Bummer. Too bad you can't relocate the light switches to the wall to the left of the door.SDA SRS 1.2TL's
SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp -
I like your idea.
Just put PULL and PUSH plaques on the door. You'll be fine and you're doing great by planning ahead "on paper".
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Go for it! Out swing into the hallway, no big, IMO.Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cables, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Garage: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner -
@daddyjt - if you need lighting let me know. I work as a factory rep for many lines of lighting and controls. Can get you factory direct pricing. Happy to help if I can! Fun project. I built out my basement a couple of years ago. Super rewarding when it’s all done. And for what it’s worth, I think the outswing would be the best solution!Current Collection:
Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 7b (Peerless) (2x pair), Modified Monitor 7c’s (194’s), SDA CRS+ (SL2000), RTA12c (194's), SDA SRS 2 (SL2000), SDA SRS 3.1TL (198’s)
Repair pile:
SDA CRS, (1) lonely RTA 11TL to become a center channel... someday...
Pairs that have passed through:
Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 5b (SL2000) (2x pair), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10c (3x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, RTA 11T, SDA 2, SDA 2a, SDA 2b, SDA 1b, SDA 1c, SDA SRS 2, SDA SRS 3.1TL (198’s)
...and more to come, it’s a sickness. -
Nothing wrong with an outswinger. I have one for a smallish bedroom that makes the room easier to use.
A question though. Do you really need a door at all? Unless the room is sound proofed, chances are the sound produced in the room will be heard throughout the house regardless of whether a door is there or not.
Looks like it'll be a nice space!1. Polk LSiM-707, LSiM-704C, LSiM-702FX; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A31 and A23 amps; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Parasound JC2 and JC5; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Marantz SA8004 SACD; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio P1000; MIT S1 Cables
3. Polk LSiM703; Anthem Pre-2L SE; Parasound A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; PS Audio Power Director 4.7; MIT S3 cables -
How about a sliding "barn-door" type?The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Statement V2 cartridge and Origin Conqueror Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.
“Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell
“If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.” -
@daddyjt - if you need lighting let me know. I work as a factory rep for many lines of lighting and controls. Can get you factory direct pricing. Happy to help if I can! Fun project. I built out my basement a couple of years ago. Super rewarding when it’s all done. And for what it’s worth, I think the outswing would be the best solution!
Define lighting? Like Insteon.... Phillip Smart bulbs, etc..."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
@daddyjt - if you need lighting let me know. I work as a factory rep for many lines of lighting and controls. Can get you factory direct pricing. Happy to help if I can! Fun project. I built out my basement a couple of years ago. Super rewarding when it’s all done. And for what it’s worth, I think the outswing would be the best solution!
Thanks jay - are there any cool options for LED can lights and dimmers? I have six cans in the ceiling, arrayed in pairs (front, mid and rear), each pair with their own switch...
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
Nothing wrong with an outswinger. I have one for a smallish bedroom that makes the room easier to use.
A question though. Do you really need a door at all? Unless the room is sound proofed, chances are the sound produced in the room will be heard throughout the house regardless of whether a door is there or not.
Looks like it'll be a nice space!
Although I did insulate every wall with R13, and R19 in the ceiling, it will be far from soundproof - that ship sailed about 5 amps and two velodyne subs ago, lol. I insulated more for deadening the walls for the sound inside the room. I want a door more for acoustics, I think, to keep sound reflections as equal as possible between L+R. On that note, I HATE the small intrusion above he door from the HVAC, but I didn’t want to run the drop down the entire width of the room. The perils of basements...
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
nooshinjohn wrote: »How about a sliding "barn-door" type?
Now that’s an idea I hadn’t considered... I know what I’ll be googling tonight.
Any experience with them, or suggestions?
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
Friendly GC here
The swing on the door does not matter one bit. Actually, an outswing door would be considered “better” for a means of egress in case your HT catches fire and you need to get out in a hurry.
Install it whichever way you want. It’s your home and not a commercially ADA/FHA complaint space.“If your eyes didn’t water, it means I didn’t go deep enough” says the nurse administering my COVID19 test. She was sweet... -
nooshinjohn wrote: »How about a sliding "barn-door" type?
Now that’s an idea I hadn’t considered... I know what I’ll be googling tonight.
Any experience with them, or suggestions?
All the rage now that totally slipped my mind as well -
nooshinjohn wrote: »How about a sliding "barn-door" type?
That is the door type in my bedroom’s bathroom.
Lumin X1 file player
Sony XA-5400ES SACD
Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
nooshinjohn wrote: »How about a sliding "barn-door" type?
Now that’s an idea I hadn’t considered... I know what I’ll be googling tonight.
Any experience with them, or suggestions?
I think this is a great idea. -
Doors that swing out would be fine.
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nooshinjohn wrote: »How about a sliding "barn-door" type?
That is the door type in my bedroom’s bathroom.
No Bud that is a pocket door. -
Well, it slides closed and open. What is a sliding door?Lumin X1 file player
Sony XA-5400ES SACD
Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Rails are outside of the wall, like on barns all hardware is exposed
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The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with Pass Labs Xono Phono Preamp, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Goldfinger Statement V2 cartridge and Origin Conqueror Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X0.2 three chassis preamp, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Pioneer Elite SC-LX701, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds.
“Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book has been rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered…History has stopped. Nothing exists except the endless present in which the party is always right” — George Orwell
“If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.” -
They're very popular right now. Many styles to choose from. Shaker cabinets are popular now too.
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Okay. For what the question was about it appears the pocket door would be the best option. Learn something every once in a while on Club Polk. Lumin X1 file player
Sony XA-5400ES SACD
Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Okay. For what the question was about it appears the pocket door would be the best option. Learn something every once in a while on Club Polk.
Yes but due to construction probably it is not possible according to @daddyjt -
What's in the little room between the hallway and "closet" in the media room? Is that a bathroom, or, a closet? That could be an option for entry.
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What's in the little room between the hallway and "closet" in the media room? Is that a bathroom, or, a closet? That could be an option for entry.
That’s the closet for the guest room - not really an option for entry.
To have the full 16’ length in the HT, that room had to be at the end of the basement - the guest room is only about 12’5” x 14’, as the 3’6” hallway runs that span. Media room (closet) is 5’x8’, and guest closet is about 5’x5’.
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
Hippie beadsPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Hippie beads
Yet another option I had not considered
Might be fun seeing how much they move during the club scenes in John Wick...
“Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn -
EndersShadow wrote: »Define lighting? Like Insteon.... Phillip Smart bulbs, etc...
Any and all! Primarily commercial, so if you need an explosion-proof exit sign I can hook you up! 😂are there any cool options for LED can lights and dimmers? I have six cans in the ceiling, arrayed in pairs (front, mid and rear), each pair with their own switch...
In my basement I used some LED downlights from Juno that dim to warm like an incandescent would and they dim very low - almost to a candlelight glow with no flicker. They also offer several nice trim options.
https://juno.acuitybrands.com/products/detail/660670/juno/ic1rled-600lm-wd-remodel-housing/warmdim-led-4in-round-remodel-housing
I like using the remodel cans because you can easily remove them from below for service or replacement and if you plan your A/V cable paths, they provide a good way to access things if you need to re-pull wiring or make changes. If you want to see them dim, you’re welcome to stop by for a demo, but you can’t make fun of my poor man's audio rig!
That said, from your photo above it looks like you may have already installed some (6” ?) cans. If so, you can get 6” retrofit LED modules from Juno with the same warm dim technology.
https://juno.acuitybrands.com/products/detail/660784/juno/j6rl-wd-trim/warmdim-led-6in-round-retrofit-downlight
If you’ve used a different diameter, let me know and we'll explore other options.
For wallbox dimming, Lutron is usually the best route. Their Caseta line is very nice. https://www.casetawireless.com/ I can check on compatibility with the Juno fixtures if you want to explore them. I’ve also heard good things about Legrand's Radiant line as well. https://www.legrand.us/radiant/products/smart-lighting.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo4CRx8mp4wIVA9vACh1N2g5wEAAYASADEgIgpfD_BwE
Both of those systems can be tied to Alexa/Google/HomeKit for that extra bling factor.
We have tons of options if these don’t float your boat. Happy to help out a neighbor and fellow junkie!
Current Collection:
Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 7b (Peerless) (2x pair), Modified Monitor 7c’s (194’s), SDA CRS+ (SL2000), RTA12c (194's), SDA SRS 2 (SL2000), SDA SRS 3.1TL (198’s)
Repair pile:
SDA CRS, (1) lonely RTA 11TL to become a center channel... someday...
Pairs that have passed through:
Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 5b (SL2000) (2x pair), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10c (3x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, RTA 11T, SDA 2, SDA 2a, SDA 2b, SDA 1b, SDA 1c, SDA SRS 2, SDA SRS 3.1TL (198’s)
...and more to come, it’s a sickness. -
Or a HIDDEN DOOR.........
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
