In need of some construction advice.
daddyjt
Posts: 1,076
I am torn on this decision, and would like some input from you guys, as I hold a great deal of respect for your opinion.
My conundrum lies in the door swing in the home theater I am building. In the sketches below, you can see that the entrance to my new theater room is in the front right corner (I would have preferred a mid-wall entrance, but that was not an option). If I have the traditional in-swing door (32”), that leaves only 70” between the front speakers, after allowing for the door swing and rest against the front wall, and symmetrical speaker placement.
What I want to do, is install the door as an out-swing, which easily allows for about 88” between the speakers. I know it is not traditional for the door to a room to swing out into the hallway, but in this application, I think it makes a lot of sense. I checked local codes, and this poses no violation. The hallway is not narrow at all, at 40”, so the door resting out there would pose no constriction of movement into the room.
As an added bonus, I already have a 32” right hinge door, so this would save $70 on construction.
What think you all? Is this something I will regret later, or should I go for it?
My conundrum lies in the door swing in the home theater I am building. In the sketches below, you can see that the entrance to my new theater room is in the front right corner (I would have preferred a mid-wall entrance, but that was not an option). If I have the traditional in-swing door (32”), that leaves only 70” between the front speakers, after allowing for the door swing and rest against the front wall, and symmetrical speaker placement.
What I want to do, is install the door as an out-swing, which easily allows for about 88” between the speakers. I know it is not traditional for the door to a room to swing out into the hallway, but in this application, I think it makes a lot of sense. I checked local codes, and this poses no violation. The hallway is not narrow at all, at 40”, so the door resting out there would pose no constriction of movement into the room.
As an added bonus, I already have a 32” right hinge door, so this would save $70 on construction.
What think you all? Is this something I will regret later, or should I go for it?
Too much stuff to keep track of.
Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
Comments
SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
Unfortunately no:-(
Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
Just put PULL and PUSH plaques on the door. You'll be fine and you're doing great by planning ahead "on paper".
Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL2000), Monitor 7b (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7c’s (194’s, Dynamat, Sonicaps, Mills, H-nuts), SDA CRS+ (SL2000), RTA12c (194's), SDA SRS 2 (SL2000)
Repair pile: SRS 3.1TL (198’s), RTA 11T's, (1) lonely RTA 11TL to become a center channel... someday...
Pairs that have passed through:
Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10c (3x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, SDA2, SDA2a, SDA1b, SDA SRS2
...and more to come, it’s a sickness.
A question though. Do you really need a door at all? Unless the room is sound proofed, chances are the sound produced in the room will be heard throughout the house regardless of whether a door is there or not.
Looks like it'll be a nice space!
2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Sonic Frontiers Line 3 Preamp; Classe Model 25 amp; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Oppo 105D; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio Power Director; MIT S1 Cables
3. Polk LSiM703; Parasound JC2BP and A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; MIT S3 cables
Saying that it's "too hard" to pursue your dreams is no different than admitting to yourself that you are too lazy to achieve them.
“If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
Define lighting? Like Insteon.... Phillip Smart bulbs, etc...
Thanks jay - are there any cool options for LED can lights and dimmers? I have six cans in the ceiling, arrayed in pairs (front, mid and rear), each pair with their own switch...
Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
Although I did insulate every wall with R13, and R19 in the ceiling, it will be far from soundproof - that ship sailed about 5 amps and two velodyne subs ago, lol. I insulated more for deadening the walls for the sound inside the room. I want a door more for acoustics, I think, to keep sound reflections as equal as possible between L+R. On that note, I HATE the small intrusion above he door from the HVAC, but I didn’t want to run the drop down the entire width of the room. The perils of basements...
Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
Now that’s an idea I hadn’t considered... I know what I’ll be googling tonight.
Any experience with them, or suggestions?
Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
The swing on the door does not matter one bit. Actually, an outswing door would be considered “better” for a means of egress in case your HT catches fire and you need to get out in a hurry.
Install it whichever way you want. It’s your home and not a commercially ADA/FHA complaint space.
All the rage now that totally slipped my mind as well
That is the door type in my bedroom’s bathroom.
Lumin X1
Sony XA-5400ES SACD
Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits.
I think this is a great idea.
Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
LSA-1 Statement
SVS SB4000 & SB2000
Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC
Secondary Rig:
Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
Analysus Plus Oval
Backup Gear:
Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
Marantz SA-14S1
Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
Doors that swing out would be fine.
No Bud that is a pocket door.
Lumin X1
Sony XA-5400ES SACD
Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits.
Saying that it's "too hard" to pursue your dreams is no different than admitting to yourself that you are too lazy to achieve them.
“If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.”
Lumin X1
Sony XA-5400ES SACD
Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits.
Yes but due to construction probably it is not possible according to @daddyjt
Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII Upgraded by Rich Brkich Pre
Butler Audio TBD 2250 Amp
PS Audio DirectStream DAC and MemoryPlayer Transport
LSA-1 Statement
SVS SB4000 & SB2000
Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC
Secondary Rig:
Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
Analysus Plus Oval
Backup Gear:
Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
Marantz SA-14S1
Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
That’s the closet for the guest room - not really an option for entry.
To have the full 16’ length in the HT, that room had to be at the end of the basement - the guest room is only about 12’5” x 14’, as the 3’6” hallway runs that span. Media room (closet) is 5’x8’, and guest closet is about 5’x5’.
Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
Yet another option I had not considered
Might be fun seeing how much they move during the club scenes in John Wick...
Currently enjoying: Legacy Focus 20/20, McCormack DNA 225, Bill D C1, Oppo 105
Any and all! Primarily commercial, so if you need an explosion-proof exit sign I can hook you up! 😂
In my basement I used some LED downlights from Juno that dim to warm like an incandescent would and they dim very low - almost to a candlelight glow with no flicker. They also offer several nice trim options.
https://juno.acuitybrands.com/products/detail/660670/juno/ic1rled-600lm-wd-remodel-housing/warmdim-led-4in-round-remodel-housing
I like using the remodel cans because you can easily remove them from below for service or replacement and if you plan your A/V cable paths, they provide a good way to access things if you need to re-pull wiring or make changes. If you want to see them dim, you’re welcome to stop by for a demo, but you can’t make fun of my poor man's audio rig!
That said, from your photo above it looks like you may have already installed some (6” ?) cans. If so, you can get 6” retrofit LED modules from Juno with the same warm dim technology.
https://juno.acuitybrands.com/products/detail/660784/juno/j6rl-wd-trim/warmdim-led-6in-round-retrofit-downlight
If you’ve used a different diameter, let me know and we'll explore other options.
For wallbox dimming, Lutron is usually the best route. Their Caseta line is very nice. https://www.casetawireless.com/ I can check on compatibility with the Juno fixtures if you want to explore them. I’ve also heard good things about Legrand's Radiant line as well. https://www.legrand.us/radiant/products/smart-lighting.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo4CRx8mp4wIVA9vACh1N2g5wEAAYASADEgIgpfD_BwE
Both of those systems can be tied to Alexa/Google/HomeKit for that extra bling factor.
We have tons of options if these don’t float your boat. Happy to help out a neighbor and fellow junkie!
Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL2000), Monitor 7b (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7c’s (194’s, Dynamat, Sonicaps, Mills, H-nuts), SDA CRS+ (SL2000), RTA12c (194's), SDA SRS 2 (SL2000)
Repair pile: SRS 3.1TL (198’s), RTA 11T's, (1) lonely RTA 11TL to become a center channel... someday...
Pairs that have passed through:
Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10c (3x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, SDA2, SDA2a, SDA1b, SDA SRS2
...and more to come, it’s a sickness.