Depends on the brand of watch you want. Omega dealers can typically come very close to matching grey market pricing. I’ve used jomashop in the past and had no issues but there’s is nothing like the piece of mind of the manufacturers warranty vice a crappy third party one
2 Channel - Dual Purpose system in the works
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
If I’m buying a $10,000 Rolex, I would rather do it at a brick and mortar store where I can likely get a discount and have support, polishing, etc. And then use that business relationship to obtain jewelry for the wife etc.
Than try to save a grand at a no-face online dealer
Yea. SS Rolex sport models are all nutty now. Most ADs (supposedly worldwide) have almost zero stock.
This Daytona is only my second Rolex so far, but with aftermarket values doing what they are, it won't be my last. My other one is a GMTii Batman that is also currently worth twice what I gave for it. Of course the aftermarket value will never do me any real good, unless I can find a way to part with them. lol
HT Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600
Yea. SS Rolex sport models are all nutty now. Most ADs (supposedly worldwide) have almost zero stock.
This Daytona is only my second Rolex so far, but with aftermarket values doing what they are, it won't be my last. My other one is a GMTii Batman that is also currently worth twice what I gave for it. Of course the aftermarket value will never do me any real good, unless I can find a way to part with them. lol
Yes the Batman are now 15,000$+.
My black GMT hits 12,000$. Bought it for $6700 in 2010.
My SS Daytona black hits $19000, bought for $9250 in 2010.
The only lackluster performers are my
SS Sub w date which hits about $7000 and I bought for $4500 in 2005.
And the Milgauss GV which I purchased for $6500 but sells for about the same, purchased 2009.
I should’ve bought the Batman when they were plentiful, should’ve bought the Sub Kermit and Sub Hulk... ugh, so many mistakes and missed opportunities!
I just sent my Chicago jeweler an email this morning inquiring on the new Daytona. I would buy it and flip it.
My dad has both the Kermit and hulk, as well as a James Cameron Deep sea. The subs are already worth twice what he paid for them new. Pretty crazy
2 Channel - Dual Purpose system in the works
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
Here's my little affordable watch collection. Most have the correct time and new batteries. Some need new batteries. The swiss army "Anthem" watch in the middle needs a battery. I didn't see many of these watches for years. I thought they were sold at one of our yard-sales by mistake. I thought I hid them in a pair of sneakers when we went on a vacation years ago and then sold those sneakers at a yard-sale. I also saw two of the exact same watches I lost at a Pawn shop. That is weird that they were there and mine were here at the same time. What are those odds!!?
Anyway, I wear the silver Fossil "Blue" with the black face the most. It's second from the right. It's super heavy! I paid 7.00 for it at Goodwill MANY years ago.
OLD ones that need TLC or something...
I now rotate these whenever. I just had batteries put in 5 watches a month or two ago after I found them.
These two on the left have faceted crystals. One's a Seiko, the other a Quasar. These are my FIRST watch purchases. I was probably 20 or 22 then. You can see I wore the silver one for years at work. They have med. size to them compared to the massive sized of today or even 20 years ago when the sizes started to increase. The gold Pulsar was for going out whenever I did go out.
This Nixon was a yard-sale purchase. 7.00 or 5.00. It's a NICE watch too.
I also have a Japanese movement FAKE Rolex that's very nice too. But a band pin is missing and I haven't been able to wear it yet. It's a 200.00 copy but these Japan movement Rolex copies have a great following with great reviews. Rolex's for us common folk...
I also bought a UNCW watch at Goodwill for 7.00 but I didn't take a pic. of it. Here's a pic from the web. It's heavy and high quality too. They sell for about 100.00+.
I couldn't find one on the web. Maybe I'll take a picture of it later.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
I’d like to ask for recommendations from those who are into watches. Looking for an “affordable” watch, possibly Shinola or Revolution Watch. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S, retipped by Soundsmith; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; North Star Intenso;
Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
How much is affordable? I’m partial to Hamilton at the entry level mechanical watch price point
2 Channel - Dual Purpose system in the works
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
I personally would save a bit more and pick up an Oris aquis
2 Channel - Dual Purpose system in the works
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
Yea. SS Rolex sport models are all nutty now. Most ADs (supposedly worldwide) have almost zero stock.
This Daytona is only my second Rolex so far, but with aftermarket values doing what they are, it won't be my last. My other one is a GMTii Batman that is also currently worth twice what I gave for it. Of course the aftermarket value will never do me any real good, unless I can find a way to part with them. lol
Yes the Batman are now 15,000$+.
My black GMT hits 12,000$. Bought it for $6700 in 2010.
My SS Daytona black hits $19000, bought for $9250 in 2010.
The only lackluster performers are my
SS Sub w date which hits about $7000 and I bought for $4500 in 2005.
And the Milgauss GV which I purchased for $6500 but sells for about the same, purchased 2009.
I should’ve bought the Batman when they were plentiful, should’ve bought the Sub Kermit and Sub Hulk... ugh, so many mistakes and missed opportunities!
I just sent my Chicago jeweler an email this morning inquiring on the new Daytona. I would buy it and flip it.
I hear ya. I drug my feet for some time before buying my first, and regret almost every one I passed on. Of course this was before things went crazy, but still, lets be honest, for the most part, no Rolex is a bad bet, as long as you've done your research.
FWIW, I have gotten the impression that ADs are getting super sensitive towards individuals that they think might flip a piece. Supposedly some have gone as far as requiring that you buy a separate less desirable piece before they will sell you the sought-after one. A pretty crappy tactic IMO, but somewhat understandable considering the ridiculous market.
HT Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600
I’d like to ask for recommendations from those who are into watches. Looking for an “affordable” watch, possibly Shinola or Revolution Watch. Any suggestions would be welcome.
IMO steer clear of Shinola. They seem to be a company that just wants to capitalize on the premise that they are a "Detroit/Made in the USA" company, when in reality, they may have presence there, but they are sourcing product from many places, and passing it off as if it's from good ol' Detroit.
Also, I believe they only offer quartz (battery powered) watches. FWIW very few quartz watches retain any value, and/or are respected amongst watch lovers. That's not to say that if you absolutely love the style or design of a quartz watch, and don't care if it has any residual value, that you shouldn't buy it. Ultimately a watch is a fashion accessory, and if you love it... buy it.
It's usually best to buy what's referred to as a "mechanical, automatic or manual" watch from a reputable brand. These are watches that are wound either by spinning the crown (manual), or more commonly have a mechanism that winds the watch from the movement of your arm throughout the day (automatic).
There are plenty of mechanical options in the price range you mentioned. Some brands you might consider are: Tissot, Seiko, Oris, Hamilton, Orient, Ball, Alpina, etc... Be aware that some of these sell both quartz, and mechanicals.
Hope this helps. If not... I blame the alcohol. lol
HT Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600
Thanks, @stangman67 and @cmy330go, and everyone else who might chime in. I’ll definitely check out some of the brands recommended. Some beautiful watches have been shown here.
Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S, retipped by Soundsmith; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; North Star Intenso;
Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
Sent my Breitling off for repair today. My local AD is having a watch event in early June, which apparently includes 100+ estate pieces. Anything old, nice, but not ridiculously expensive I should be looking for? Definitely going to add one if there’s anything reasonable, and appreciate the advice about not shopping online.
2007 Club Polk Football Pool Champ
2010 Club Polk Fantasy Football Champ
2011 Club Polk Football Pool Champ
"It's like a koala bear crapped a rainbow in my brain!"
I know this is not a for sale thread but if anyone is interested in a Omega Seamasster Professional shoot me a message.
Well what didn’t you think of the new Seamaster?!?
2 Channel - Dual Purpose system in the works
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
I usually trend the resale market just so I have a clue to what the watches are doing. Got too busy with life so I stopped monitoring the resale market for a couple years. The GMTIIC was ALWAYS sluggish in gaining value... but then just jumped a couple months ago.
But it’s not like I can take advantage of the increased equity as it’s not like I’m selling any time soon anyway (knock on wood).
But it’s still pretty cool to know that the favorite watch in my collection has been appropriately valued by my contemporaries.
I know this is not a for sale thread but if anyone is interested in a Omega Seamasster Professional shoot me a message.
Well what didn’t you think of the new Seamaster?!?
Maybe I mislead with my comment. I thought the new Omega was awesome. The one I’m thinking of letting go is one I have had for about 10 years.
We’re on the same page, just wondering what you thought after checking it out in person
2 Channel - Dual Purpose system in the works
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
Comments
Current Gear:
Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2
Main speakers system evolution over the years:
Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???
Old Gear:
Speakers:
BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
Source:
Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
Preamplification:
Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
Amplification:
HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
Subwoofer:
Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
It depends
If I’m buying a $10,000 Rolex, I would rather do it at a brick and mortar store where I can likely get a discount and have support, polishing, etc. And then use that business relationship to obtain jewelry for the wife etc.
Than try to save a grand at a no-face online dealer
Current Gear:
Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2
Main speakers system evolution over the years:
Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???
Old Gear:
Speakers:
BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
Source:
Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
Preamplification:
Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
Amplification:
HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
Subwoofer:
Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
Goldenear Technology Triton 1 - Parasound Halo A23 - Parasound Halo P5 - Auralic Vega - Auralic Aries - Marantz TT-15S1 - Clearaudio Nano
I gotta say, this buy was a great one.
I just checked, resale for a brand new condition SS Daytona white with ceramic bezel is insane...
$22,000!!!
My GMTIIC is looking like it is hitting $12,000 and my previous model SS Daytona is hitting $18,000... but $22K for a stainless... wow.
Current Gear:
Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2
Main speakers system evolution over the years:
Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???
Old Gear:
Speakers:
BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
Source:
Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
Preamplification:
Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
Amplification:
HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
Subwoofer:
Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
This Daytona is only my second Rolex so far, but with aftermarket values doing what they are, it won't be my last. My other one is a GMTii Batman that is also currently worth twice what I gave for it. Of course the aftermarket value will never do me any real good, unless I can find a way to part with them. lol
Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600
2 CH
Parasound Halo P3, Parasound Halo A21, Sutherland Ph.D, VPI Classic 3 w/ 3D arm & Soundsmith Aida Cartridge, Arcam CD72T, B&W 802 S3, Monster HTS2500,
Yes the Batman are now 15,000$+.
My black GMT hits 12,000$. Bought it for $6700 in 2010.
My SS Daytona black hits $19000, bought for $9250 in 2010.
The only lackluster performers are my
SS Sub w date which hits about $7000 and I bought for $4500 in 2005.
And the Milgauss GV which I purchased for $6500 but sells for about the same, purchased 2009.
I should’ve bought the Batman when they were plentiful, should’ve bought the Sub Kermit and Sub Hulk... ugh, so many mistakes and missed opportunities!
I just sent my Chicago jeweler an email this morning inquiring on the new Daytona. I would buy it and flip it.
Current Gear:
Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2
Main speakers system evolution over the years:
Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???
Old Gear:
Speakers:
BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
Source:
Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
Preamplification:
Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
Amplification:
HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
Subwoofer:
Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
Anyway, I wear the silver Fossil "Blue" with the black face the most. It's second from the right. It's super heavy! I paid 7.00 for it at Goodwill MANY years ago.
OLD ones that need TLC or something...
I now rotate these whenever. I just had batteries put in 5 watches a month or two ago after I found them.
These two on the left have faceted crystals. One's a Seiko, the other a Quasar. These are my FIRST watch purchases. I was probably 20 or 22 then. You can see I wore the silver one for years at work. They have med. size to them compared to the massive sized of today or even 20 years ago when the sizes started to increase. The gold Pulsar was for going out whenever I did go out.
This Nixon was a yard-sale purchase. 7.00 or 5.00. It's a NICE watch too.
I also have a Japanese movement FAKE Rolex that's very nice too. But a band pin is missing and I haven't been able to wear it yet. It's a 200.00 copy but these Japan movement Rolex copies have a great following with great reviews. Rolex's for us common folk...
I also bought a UNCW watch at Goodwill for 7.00 but I didn't take a pic. of it. Here's a pic from the web. It's heavy and high quality too. They sell for about 100.00+.
I couldn't find one on the web. Maybe I'll take a picture of it later.
PS Audio Perfectwave DAC MK2, Bridge 1 streaming perfectly now
Marantz SM-11S1
Foundation Research LC2
Kef XQ1 bookshelves
Dual Goldenear Forcefield 3 Subs
PS Audio receptacle
3 PS Audio Noise Harvesters
PS Audio power, interconnects and speaker cables
Homemade sound absorption
Lots of blocks for weight and a red single listening chair
Insane.
I should’ve bought the Kermit and the hulk when they first came out.
I’m an idiot!
Current Gear:
Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2
Main speakers system evolution over the years:
Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???
Old Gear:
Speakers:
BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
Source:
Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
Preamplification:
Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
Amplification:
HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
Subwoofer:
Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
The wife and I take pictures of things on it every once in a while to post things for sale. Just an old habit.
We're reheating fried chicken in it now.
Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
I hear ya. I drug my feet for some time before buying my first, and regret almost every one I passed on. Of course this was before things went crazy, but still, lets be honest, for the most part, no Rolex is a bad bet, as long as you've done your research.
FWIW, I have gotten the impression that ADs are getting super sensitive towards individuals that they think might flip a piece. Supposedly some have gone as far as requiring that you buy a separate less desirable piece before they will sell you the sought-after one. A pretty crappy tactic IMO, but somewhat understandable considering the ridiculous market.
Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600
2 CH
Parasound Halo P3, Parasound Halo A21, Sutherland Ph.D, VPI Classic 3 w/ 3D arm & Soundsmith Aida Cartridge, Arcam CD72T, B&W 802 S3, Monster HTS2500,
IMO steer clear of Shinola. They seem to be a company that just wants to capitalize on the premise that they are a "Detroit/Made in the USA" company, when in reality, they may have presence there, but they are sourcing product from many places, and passing it off as if it's from good ol' Detroit.
Also, I believe they only offer quartz (battery powered) watches. FWIW very few quartz watches retain any value, and/or are respected amongst watch lovers. That's not to say that if you absolutely love the style or design of a quartz watch, and don't care if it has any residual value, that you shouldn't buy it. Ultimately a watch is a fashion accessory, and if you love it... buy it.
It's usually best to buy what's referred to as a "mechanical, automatic or manual" watch from a reputable brand. These are watches that are wound either by spinning the crown (manual), or more commonly have a mechanism that winds the watch from the movement of your arm throughout the day (automatic).
There are plenty of mechanical options in the price range you mentioned. Some brands you might consider are: Tissot, Seiko, Oris, Hamilton, Orient, Ball, Alpina, etc... Be aware that some of these sell both quartz, and mechanicals.
Hope this helps. If not... I blame the alcohol. lol
Mits WD-65737, DirecTV, Oppo DV-970HD, XBOX ONE, Yamaha RX-A1030, Parasound Halo A23, Rotel RB-985, Music Hall MMF-7, Parasound PPH-100, LSi-15, LSi-C, LSi-FX, LSi-7, PSW-1000, Monster HTS2600
2 CH
Parasound Halo P3, Parasound Halo A21, Sutherland Ph.D, VPI Classic 3 w/ 3D arm & Soundsmith Aida Cartridge, Arcam CD72T, B&W 802 S3, Monster HTS2500,
@stangman67 that Omega is a great looking watch. In fact I had to stop by the local watch dealer yesterday and check it out.
@Joey_V that Daytona is a real show stopper.
I know this is not a for sale thread but if anyone is interested in a Omega Seamasster Professional shoot me a message.
Legacy Focus SE, 2 REL Carbon Limited, McIntosh C50, McIntosh MC601's, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Parasound Halo JC3, Denon DP-59l w/Ortofon 2m Bronze, Marantz SA-14s1, Oppo BDP-105, Technics RS-1500, Furman Elite 15PFi, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Interconnects, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Speaker Cables, Pangea Power Cables
Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
2010 Club Polk Fantasy Football Champ
2011 Club Polk Football Pool Champ
"It's like a koala bear crapped a rainbow in my brain!"
Well what didn’t you think of the new Seamaster?!?
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD
Maybe I mislead with my comment. I thought the new Omega was awesome. The one I’m thinking of letting go is one I have had for about 10 years.
Legacy Focus SE, 2 REL Carbon Limited, McIntosh C50, McIntosh MC601's, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Parasound Halo JC3, Denon DP-59l w/Ortofon 2m Bronze, Marantz SA-14s1, Oppo BDP-105, Technics RS-1500, Furman Elite 15PFi, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Interconnects, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Speaker Cables, Pangea Power Cables
Current Gear:
Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2
Main speakers system evolution over the years:
Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???
Old Gear:
Speakers:
BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
Source:
Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
Preamplification:
Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
Amplification:
HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
Subwoofer:
Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
But it’s not like I can take advantage of the increased equity as it’s not like I’m selling any time soon anyway (knock on wood).
But it’s still pretty cool to know that the favorite watch in my collection has been appropriately valued by my contemporaries.
Current Gear:
Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x -> ??? -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2
Main speakers system evolution over the years:
Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???
Old Gear:
Speakers:
BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
Source:
Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
Preamplification:
Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ???
Amplification:
HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
Subwoofer:
Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
We’re on the same page, just wondering what you thought after checking it out in person
Polk LSIM707 I Polk LSIM 706C I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I B&K Ref 200.7 I Rega P6 w/ Ania MC I Rega Fono MC I Audience Ohno ICs throughout I Streamer and surrounds TBD