SDA SRS 3.1TL
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I once placed @lightman1 on top of a sub... Didn't work out to well
We need pics of this beastly setup
Are you sure you want to see the pics? Remember, you can't unseen what you've already seen.
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Hurricane nuts are threaded inserts that can be installed for a more secure way of fastening the driver to the speaker. You drill out the holes for the wood screws and install the H-nuts from the back side of the baffle. The ribs on the barrel of the nut bites into the MDF to hold the nut tightly in place. Do a forum search and you will find instructions for installing them. I got mine at Parts Express.I wouldn't use thread locker with Hurricane nuts. If you do the H-nut might turn in the MDF before the screw turns in the the nut. That would cause lots of headaches of you need to remove a driver in the future.
Would you mind pointing me in the right direction to check out this Hurricane nuts you guys keep talking. I really think I need to get some.
Thanks in advance.
If you want to get fancy you can cut off a portion of the flange so you don't see it when the drivers are removed.
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Hurricane nuts are threaded inserts that can be installed for a more secure way of fastening the driver to the speaker. You drill out the holes for the wood screws and install the H-nuts from the back side of the baffle. The ribs on the barrel of the nut bites into the MDF to hold the nut tightly in place. Do a forum search and you will find instructions for installing them. I got mine at Parts Express.I wouldn't use thread locker with Hurricane nuts. If you do the H-nut might turn in the MDF before the screw turns in the the nut. That would cause lots of headaches of you need to remove a driver in the future.
Would you mind pointing me in the right direction to check out this Hurricane nuts you guys keep talking. I really think I need to get some.
Thanks in advance.
If you want to get fancy you can cut off a portion of the flange so you don't see it when the drivers are removed.
Okay thanks.
I've seen those but it just didn't register with me. I guess I'm not hip to the ling-go..
I'll pick some of those up, I don't really like going straight into the wood anyways.
Thanks again. -
These are what I'm looking for?
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No. Too big. Read westmassguys post in this thread for the correct size and how to install. https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/181414/driver-mounting-with-8-32-hurricane-nuts/p1
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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Okay thanks...that was a close one...lol
I found them. I'll get them ordered up.
Thanks again for the help. -
Do not forget the 8/32 button head cap screws. For reference only below.
https://www.amazon.com/Button-Socket-Threaded-Machine-Quantity/dp/B01I28Y1OC
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Well, no. The speakers need to be coupled to the floor to obtain a clear, clean mid-range as well as tight bass.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Hurricane **** are to arrive today so hopefully I'll get them installed over the weekend.
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Follow through on the advice to search the forum for installing these. Great directions for starting with a small drill bit and working your way up to the correct hole size for the Hurricane nuts. Pain in the rear to drill the same hole three times but ....... I used the recommended-sized bit for my first attempt and ended up spinning one on my 2B build since the MDF crumbled a bit on the punch out side.
Now I apply a small bead of Gorilla Glue on each just because I get a little AR. This stuff was originally developed for furniture companies using MDF and has very little outgassing as a polyurethane after cured.
I bought a Tee-Handle hex set and use a screw with several washers to seat the nuts properly to avoid damage to the speaker race. The Tee-handle seems to allow you to apply a greater deal of torque to seat them without slipping out like the standard hex key sets allow. Use the standard hex keys to install the speaker and get a better feel for proper tightening.
I use Larry's excellent rings for my speakers but still like the hurricane nuts for tweeters, rear binding post cover or the cross-over covers on the big 1.2 models.Media Room: Parasound JC-5, Cambridge 851N, Schiit Freya, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Game Room: Carver M4.0t, Carver C-4000, Oppo BDP-105, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Bar/Card Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Oppo BDP-93, SDA SRS 3.1
Son's Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Laptop/AQ Dragonfly, SDA SRS 3.1
Bedroom: McIntosh MC150, Cambridge CXN, SDA 2Btl
Outdoor Pool Area: Yamaha R-N803 with four Polk Atrium 6
HT: Polk RTi A9s, CSi-A6, RT-65, RTi-A3's, Marantz SR5012, XPA3, UDP-203, Epson 5040UB -
@F1nut wrote:
Well, no. The speakers need to be coupled to the floor to obtain a clear, clean mid-range as well as tight bass.
Amen, spikes make a world of difference to properly couple the 3.1's to your floor. I go a little different route and use an outrigger approach on all my SDA builds. With kids, gives them a little more stability in my opinion.
I use these spikes - not bad at $30 per speaker.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dss4-bc-black-chrome-speaker-spike-set-4-pcs--240-715
Media Room: Parasound JC-5, Cambridge 851N, Schiit Freya, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Game Room: Carver M4.0t, Carver C-4000, Oppo BDP-105, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Bar/Card Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Oppo BDP-93, SDA SRS 3.1
Son's Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Laptop/AQ Dragonfly, SDA SRS 3.1
Bedroom: McIntosh MC150, Cambridge CXN, SDA 2Btl
Outdoor Pool Area: Yamaha R-N803 with four Polk Atrium 6
HT: Polk RTi A9s, CSi-A6, RT-65, RTi-A3's, Marantz SR5012, XPA3, UDP-203, Epson 5040UB -
Follow through on the advice to search the forum for installing these. Great directions for starting with a small drill bit and working your way up to the correct hole size for the Hurricane nuts. Pain in the rear to drill the same hole three times but ....... I used the recommended-sized bit for my first attempt and ended up spinning one on my 2B build since the MDF crumbled a bit on the punch out side.
Now I apply a small bead of Gorilla Glue on each just because I get a little AR. This stuff was originally developed for furniture companies using MDF and has very little outgassing as a polyurethane after cured.
I bought a Tee-Handle hex set and use a screw with several washers to seat the nuts properly to avoid damage to the speaker race. The Tee-handle seems to allow you to apply a greater deal of torque to seat them without slipping out like the standard hex key sets allow. Use the standard hex keys to install the speaker and get a better feel for proper tightening.
I use Larry's excellent rings for my speakers but still like the hurricane nuts for tweeters, rear binding post cover or the cross-over covers on the big 1.2 models.
Hey thank you very much for some very sound advice on the how too on installation of the hurricane nuts.
I have read the post I was pointed towards earlier in this thread 3 times now.
It echoes what you have said to the Tee.
Thanks again...
I appreciate any and all help on the many mods out there for these speakers. -
Hurricane **** are to arrive today so hopefully I'll get them installed over the weekend.
Really vanilla!?! N U T S is N O T offensive. -
I might of sleep in a "Z" on the end of the word...
I'm good ...not a big deal. -
Now I apply a small bead of Gorilla Glue on each just because I get a little AR. This stuff was originally developed for furniture companies using MDF and has very little outgassing as a polyurethane after cured.
There's not much worse than Gorilla Glue. Foams as it cures creating air bubbles, which weakens the adhesive quality, not to mention it doesn't stick to metal.. You should have used 5 minute epoxy.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
There's not much worse than Gorilla Glue. Foams as it cures creating air bubbles, which weakens the adhesive quality, not to mention it doesn't stick to metal.. You should have used 5 minute epoxy.
Yes it does, you're 100% correct.
But I took some advice from a woodworking buddy of mine whose theory was to apply it around the shaft of the hurricane nut such that the expansion allows it to penetrate the gaps in the MDF and lock them together along the "bore" such that the "fins" on the nut are allowed to grip or be locked in place as intended.
Zero expectation of bonding metal to wood in this case.
Trick is to coat the sides of the drill hole with the glue while not allowing it to get on the threads. I squirt it in the hole, work it around with a Q-tip minus the cotton tip, wait for it to start setting up then install the nut. Clean up the squeeze out after it cures with a razor blade if needed.
Seems to work, not spun another nut and use for non-speaker MDF projects as well.Media Room: Parasound JC-5, Cambridge 851N, Schiit Freya, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Game Room: Carver M4.0t, Carver C-4000, Oppo BDP-105, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Bar/Card Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Oppo BDP-93, SDA SRS 3.1
Son's Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Laptop/AQ Dragonfly, SDA SRS 3.1
Bedroom: McIntosh MC150, Cambridge CXN, SDA 2Btl
Outdoor Pool Area: Yamaha R-N803 with four Polk Atrium 6
HT: Polk RTi A9s, CSi-A6, RT-65, RTi-A3's, Marantz SR5012, XPA3, UDP-203, Epson 5040UB -
Ok, but epoxy flows into the MDF or particleboard then hardens around the hole and bonds to the metal. Win-win.
You will never find Gorilla glue in my shop.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Very good point on the win-win. Will update my methodology.
Working on a new corn-hole board this evening. No H-nuts but will try epoxy on the wood screws I'm shooting into the MDF.Media Room: Parasound JC-5, Cambridge 851N, Schiit Freya, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Game Room: Carver M4.0t, Carver C-4000, Oppo BDP-105, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Bar/Card Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Oppo BDP-93, SDA SRS 3.1
Son's Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Laptop/AQ Dragonfly, SDA SRS 3.1
Bedroom: McIntosh MC150, Cambridge CXN, SDA 2Btl
Outdoor Pool Area: Yamaha R-N803 with four Polk Atrium 6
HT: Polk RTi A9s, CSi-A6, RT-65, RTi-A3's, Marantz SR5012, XPA3, UDP-203, Epson 5040UB -
Ok, but epoxy flows into the MDF or particleboard then hardens around the hole and bonds to the metal. Win-win.
You will never find Gorilla glue in my shop.
I use the 1 hour epoxy for setting the threaded inserts for spikes. It soaks into the particle board nicely, and makes a great bond.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
@F1nut wrote:
Well, no. The speakers need to be coupled to the floor to obtain a clear, clean mid-range as well as tight bass.
Amen, spikes make a world of difference to properly couple the 3.1's to your floor. I go a little different route and use an outrigger approach on all my SDA builds. With kids, gives them a little more stability in my opinion.
I use these spikes - not bad at $30 per speaker.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dss4-bc-black-chrome-speaker-spike-set-4-pcs--240-715
Can you point me in the direction of those out riggers? That's always been my desire for spiking my SDAs just haven't gotten around to it yet.Just a dude doing dude-ly things
"Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
" I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
"Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
"Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
"Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member -
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I use the "15 Series" 4399 6" pivot arms from 80/20.
The smaller "10 series" 4199 4" versions work great for the dreadnought cases if you happen to be in the market with the recent group buy. Going to 80/20's web site you can special order either of these in black.
Here's the 6" one best for speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-4399-Pivot/dp/B001I9ZHQ4
The Dayton Audio spikes only come with threaded inserts so I use these knurled thumb nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Knurled-Thumb-Collar-Plating/dp/B07LFQRKKY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=uxcell+Knurled+Thumb+Nuts,+M6+Round+Knobs+with+Collar,+Zinc+Plating,+Pack+of+20&qid=1553362630&s=hi&sr=1-1-fkmrnullMedia Room: Parasound JC-5, Cambridge 851N, Schiit Freya, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Game Room: Carver M4.0t, Carver C-4000, Oppo BDP-105, SDA SRS 1.2tl
Bar/Card Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Oppo BDP-93, SDA SRS 3.1
Son's Room: Carver TFM-55, Carver C-1(BillD), Laptop/AQ Dragonfly, SDA SRS 3.1
Bedroom: McIntosh MC150, Cambridge CXN, SDA 2Btl
Outdoor Pool Area: Yamaha R-N803 with four Polk Atrium 6
HT: Polk RTi A9s, CSi-A6, RT-65, RTi-A3's, Marantz SR5012, XPA3, UDP-203, Epson 5040UB -
I use the "15 Series" 4399 6" pivot arms from 80/20.
The smaller "10 series" 4199 4" versions work great for the dreadnought cases if you happen to be in the market with the recent group buy. Going to 80/20's web site you can special order either of these in black.
Here's the 6" one best for speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-4399-Pivot/dp/B001I9ZHQ4
The Dayton Audio spikes only come with threaded inserts so I use these knurled thumb nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Knurled-Thumb-Collar-Plating/dp/B07LFQRKKY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=uxcell+Knurled+Thumb+Nuts,+M6+Round+Knobs+with+Collar,+Zinc+Plating,+Pack+of+20&qid=1553362630&s=hi&sr=1-1-fkmrnull
Hey thanks for the link to the out-riggers.
I've been looking for some that won't brake the bank... -
Before the stainless steel knurled caps came in.....
After....
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
@F1nut Jesse, how did you address the mounting hole for the transformer? I noted the case I received wasn't countersunk for a pan head and was wondering what an esthetically pleasing option would be. Granted I didn't think about mounting vertically as shown here, so that's an option, but I also figured I'd place it under the forthcoming rack on short spikes... Thoughts? It's my first transformer and I want to do it right...you know, measure 8 times, triple check the math, and have to cut twice anyway
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Man!!! @F1nut that looks sweet!!
I tried to get in on the group buy but the guy never sent me his info...
Oh well... maybe next time. -
The tranny sounds slightly better mounted vertically, so that's the way to go. The bolt head is exposed on the one side, but I have the case parallel to the wall with the bolt side towards the wall, so it isn't visible.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Turning this into an outrigger thread....
My house was built around 1915 and the mancave is on the second floor. Floors slope just enough from the side walls that leveling my 1.2tl's was a PITA with the once popular (on this forum) Myspikes.
Have toyed with getting outriggers for several years. Not cheap but purchased my set from Soundocity in Oregon. These things are beefy. My 1.2's have the super large/heavy upgraded SDA inductors inside, estimate each speaker over 200 lbs, and no problem for the outriggers.
Paul, from Soundocity, suggested running the outriggers from front to back and I opted for the nickel cones...sit on Herbies brass decoupling gliders. The tension spring and soft knob is smooth and makes leveling a breeze! With Herbies the speakers are easy to move and they helped to tightened up the bass. Combo looks nice, too.
https://soundocity.com/product/outriggers-with-brass-cones/
➀Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) ➁Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream ➂Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" ➃Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant ➄Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends ➅Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬ -
You don't use the disks on carpet. Those are only for hard flooringGustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
I tried to get in on the group buy but the guy never sent me his info...
Which guy? I'm confused. What info?
