SDA SRS 3.1TL

krazypolk

VR3 wrote: »

I once placed @lightman1 on top of a sub... Didn't work out to well

We need pics of this beastly setup

Are you sure you want to see the pics? Remember, you can't unseen what you've already seen.

TennMan

ddog wrote: »

TennMan wrote: »

I wouldn't use thread locker with Hurricane nuts. If you do the H-nut might turn in the MDF before the screw turns in the the nut. That would cause lots of headaches of you need to remove a driver in the future.

Would you mind pointing me in the right direction to check out this Hurricane nuts you guys keep talking. I really think I need to get some.

Thanks in advance.

Hurricane nuts are threaded inserts that can be installed for a more secure way of fastening the driver to the speaker. You drill out the holes for the wood screws and install the H-nuts from the back side of the baffle. The ribs on the barrel of the nut bites into the MDF to hold the nut tightly in place. Do a forum search and you will find instructions for installing them. I got mine at Parts Express.

If you want to get fancy you can cut off a portion of the flange so you don't see it when the drivers are removed.

ddog

TennMan wrote: »

ddog wrote: »

TennMan wrote: »

I wouldn't use thread locker with Hurricane nuts. If you do the H-nut might turn in the MDF before the screw turns in the the nut. That would cause lots of headaches of you need to remove a driver in the future.

Would you mind pointing me in the right direction to check out this Hurricane nuts you guys keep talking. I really think I need to get some.

Thanks in advance.

Hurricane nuts are threaded inserts that can be installed for a more secure way of fastening the driver to the speaker. You drill out the holes for the wood screws and install the H-nuts from the back side of the baffle. The ribs on the barrel of the nut bites into the MDF to hold the nut tightly in place. Do a forum search and you will find instructions for installing them. I got mine at Parts Express.

If you want to get fancy you can cut off a portion of the flange so you don't see it when the drivers are removed.

Okay thanks.
I've seen those but it just didn't register with me. I guess I'm not hip to the ling-go..

I'll pick some of those up, I don't really like going straight into the wood anyways.

Thanks again.

ddog

These are what I'm looking for?

TennMan

No. Too big. Read westmassguys post in this thread for the correct size and how to install. https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/181414/driver-mounting-with-8-32-hurricane-nuts/p1

ddog

Okay thanks...that was a close one...lol
I found them. I'll get them ordered up.

Thanks again for the help.

pitdogg2

Do not forget the 8/32 button head cap screws. For reference only below.

https://www.amazon.com/Button-Socket-Threaded-Machine-Quantity/dp/B01I28Y1OC

F1nut

ddog wrote: »

F1nut wrote: »

Oops, thought you had 2.3TL'S. Anyway, putting anything on top of a sub is not a good idea.

The sub I quit a bit larger then the speakers and being as how the 3.1's are 100lbs...
I'm purty sure I'm gtg...

Well, no. The speakers need to be coupled to the floor to obtain a clear, clean mid-range as well as tight bass.

ddog

Hurricane **** are to arrive today so hopefully I'll get them installed over the weekend.

RobbyKY

Follow through on the advice to search the forum for installing these. Great directions for starting with a small drill bit and working your way up to the correct hole size for the Hurricane nuts. Pain in the rear to drill the same hole three times but ....... I used the recommended-sized bit for my first attempt and ended up spinning one on my 2B build since the MDF crumbled a bit on the punch out side.

Now I apply a small bead of Gorilla Glue on each just because I get a little AR. This stuff was originally developed for furniture companies using MDF and has very little outgassing as a polyurethane after cured.

I bought a Tee-Handle hex set and use a screw with several washers to seat the nuts properly to avoid damage to the speaker race. The Tee-handle seems to allow you to apply a greater deal of torque to seat them without slipping out like the standard hex key sets allow. Use the standard hex keys to install the speaker and get a better feel for proper tightening.

I use Larry's excellent rings for my speakers but still like the hurricane nuts for tweeters, rear binding post cover or the cross-over covers on the big 1.2 models.

RobbyKY

@F1nut wrote:
Well, no. The speakers need to be coupled to the floor to obtain a clear, clean mid-range as well as tight bass.

Amen, spikes make a world of difference to properly couple the 3.1's to your floor. I go a little different route and use an outrigger approach on all my SDA builds. With kids, gives them a little more stability in my opinion.

I use these spikes - not bad at $30 per speaker.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dss4-bc-black-chrome-speaker-spike-set-4-pcs--240-715

ddog

RobbyKY wrote: »

Follow through on the advice to search the forum for installing these. Great directions for starting with a small drill bit and working your way up to the correct hole size for the Hurricane nuts. Pain in the rear to drill the same hole three times but ....... I used the recommended-sized bit for my first attempt and ended up spinning one on my 2B build since the MDF crumbled a bit on the punch out side.

Now I apply a small bead of Gorilla Glue on each just because I get a little AR. This stuff was originally developed for furniture companies using MDF and has very little outgassing as a polyurethane after cured.

I bought a Tee-Handle hex set and use a screw with several washers to seat the nuts properly to avoid damage to the speaker race. The Tee-handle seems to allow you to apply a greater deal of torque to seat them without slipping out like the standard hex key sets allow. Use the standard hex keys to install the speaker and get a better feel for proper tightening.

I use Larry's excellent rings for my speakers but still like the hurricane nuts for tweeters, rear binding post cover or the cross-over covers on the big 1.2 models.

Hey thank you very much for some very sound advice on the how too on installation of the hurricane nuts.

I have read the post I was pointed towards earlier in this thread 3 times now.
It echoes what you have said to the Tee.

Thanks again...
I appreciate any and all help on the many mods out there for these speakers.

FestYboy

ddog wrote: »

Hurricane **** are to arrive today so hopefully I'll get them installed over the weekend.

Really vanilla!?! N U T S is N O T offensive.

ddog

I might of sleep in a "Z" on the end of the word...
I'm good ...not a big deal.

F1nut

Now I apply a small bead of Gorilla Glue on each just because I get a little AR. This stuff was originally developed for furniture companies using MDF and has very little outgassing as a polyurethane after cured.

There's not much worse than Gorilla Glue. Foams as it cures creating air bubbles, which weakens the adhesive quality, not to mention it doesn't stick to metal.. You should have used 5 minute epoxy.

RobbyKY

There's not much worse than Gorilla Glue. Foams as it cures creating air bubbles, which weakens the adhesive quality, not to mention it doesn't stick to metal.. You should have used 5 minute epoxy.

Yes it does, you're 100% correct.

But I took some advice from a woodworking buddy of mine whose theory was to apply it around the shaft of the hurricane nut such that the expansion allows it to penetrate the gaps in the MDF and lock them together along the "bore" such that the "fins" on the nut are allowed to grip or be locked in place as intended.

Zero expectation of bonding metal to wood in this case.

Trick is to coat the sides of the drill hole with the glue while not allowing it to get on the threads. I squirt it in the hole, work it around with a Q-tip minus the cotton tip, wait for it to start setting up then install the nut. Clean up the squeeze out after it cures with a razor blade if needed.

Seems to work, not spun another nut and use for non-speaker MDF projects as well.

F1nut

Ok, but epoxy flows into the MDF or particleboard then hardens around the hole and bonds to the metal. Win-win.

You will never find Gorilla glue in my shop.

RobbyKY

Very good point on the win-win. Will update my methodology.

Working on a new corn-hole board this evening. No H-nuts but will try epoxy on the wood screws I'm shooting into the MDF.

westmassguy

F1nut wrote: »

Ok, but epoxy flows into the MDF or particleboard then hardens around the hole and bonds to the metal. Win-win.

You will never find Gorilla glue in my shop.

I use the 1 hour epoxy for setting the threaded inserts for spikes. It soaks into the particle board nicely, and makes a great bond.

codycatalist

RobbyKY wrote: »

@F1nut wrote:
Well, no. The speakers need to be coupled to the floor to obtain a clear, clean mid-range as well as tight bass.

Amen, spikes make a world of difference to properly couple the 3.1's to your floor. I go a little different route and use an outrigger approach on all my SDA builds. With kids, gives them a little more stability in my opinion.

I use these spikes - not bad at $30 per speaker.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dss4-bc-black-chrome-speaker-spike-set-4-pcs--240-715

Can you point me in the direction of those out riggers? That's always been my desire for spiking my SDAs just haven't gotten around to it yet.

pitdogg2

..

RobbyKY

I use the "15 Series" 4399 6" pivot arms from 80/20.

The smaller "10 series" 4199 4" versions work great for the dreadnought cases if you happen to be in the market with the recent group buy. Going to 80/20's web site you can special order either of these in black.

Here's the 6" one best for speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-4399-Pivot/dp/B001I9ZHQ4

The Dayton Audio spikes only come with threaded inserts so I use these knurled thumb nuts:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Knurled-Thumb-Collar-Plating/dp/B07LFQRKKY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=uxcell+Knurled+Thumb+Nuts,+M6+Round+Knobs+with+Collar,+Zinc+Plating,+Pack+of+20&qid=1553362630&s=hi&sr=1-1-fkmrnull

ddog

RobbyKY wrote: »

I use the "15 Series" 4399 6" pivot arms from 80/20.

The smaller "10 series" 4199 4" versions work great for the dreadnought cases if you happen to be in the market with the recent group buy. Going to 80/20's web site you can special order either of these in black.

Here's the 6" one best for speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-4399-Pivot/dp/B001I9ZHQ4

The Dayton Audio spikes only come with threaded inserts so I use these knurled thumb nuts:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Knurled-Thumb-Collar-Plating/dp/B07LFQRKKY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=uxcell+Knurled+Thumb+Nuts,+M6+Round+Knobs+with+Collar,+Zinc+Plating,+Pack+of+20&qid=1553362630&s=hi&sr=1-1-fkmrnull

Hey thanks for the link to the out-riggers.
I've been looking for some that won't brake the bank...

F1nut

Before the stainless steel knurled caps came in.....


After....

FestYboy

@F1nut Jesse, how did you address the mounting hole for the transformer? I noted the case I received wasn't countersunk for a pan head and was wondering what an esthetically pleasing option would be. Granted I didn't think about mounting vertically as shown here, so that's an option, but I also figured I'd place it under the forthcoming rack on short spikes... Thoughts? It's my first transformer and I want to do it right...you know, measure 8 times, triple check the math, and have to cut twice anyway

ddog

Man!!! @F1nut that looks sweet!!

I tried to get in on the group buy but the guy never sent me his info...

Oh well... maybe next time.

F1nut

The tranny sounds slightly better mounted vertically, so that's the way to go. The bolt head is exposed on the one side, but I have the case parallel to the wall with the bolt side towards the wall, so it isn't visible.

JayCee

Turning this into an outrigger thread....

My house was built around 1915 and the mancave is on the second floor. Floors slope just enough from the side walls that leveling my 1.2tl's was a PITA with the once popular (on this forum) Myspikes.

Have toyed with getting outriggers for several years. Not cheap but purchased my set from Soundocity in Oregon. These things are beefy. My 1.2's have the super large/heavy upgraded SDA inductors inside, estimate each speaker over 200 lbs, and no problem for the outriggers.

Paul, from Soundocity, suggested running the outriggers from front to back and I opted for the nickel cones...sit on Herbies brass decoupling gliders. The tension spring and soft knob is smooth and makes leveling a breeze! With Herbies the speakers are easy to move and they helped to tightened up the bass. Combo looks nice, too.

https://soundocity.com/product/outriggers-with-brass-cones/

audioluvr

You don't use the disks on carpet. Those are only for hard flooring

pitdogg2

ddog wrote: »

I tried to get in on the group buy but the guy never sent me his info...

Which guy? I'm confused. What info?