SDA SRS 3.1TL

245

Comments

  • erniejadeerniejade Posts: 4,885
    I am glad you noticed the difference as well. It is amazing how big of a difference it is.
    Den: Lumin D1,Wireworld Silver Eclipse, KEF LS50 Wireless, Velodyne SPL1200, Technics 1200, Denon DL160, Jolida D9,

    Living Room:,T+A PA 1530R, Tyler Highland H2, Aries Mini, High Fidelity Reveal RCA, Grant Fidelity Tube Dac 11, W4S recovery, Wireworld Platinum Starlight.

    Have but haven't used in a while: LH Labs VI Dac, Cayin SCD50T

  • VR3VR3 Posts: 23,224
    Good stuff, the RD0 series tweets are a nice improvement (and more durable).

    Mortal Engines has killer sound, glad I picked it up off the bay on Blu Ray! :)
    - Not Tom

    Vr3Mods.com ///// Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 2,424
    Don’t forget to break in the new tweeters. Run them continuously for a few days to work out the mechanical manufacturing stresses and they will sound even better.
    Living room Home theater: Upgrade Company modified Onkyo PR-SC5509,Sunfire Cinema grand Signature 5 channel amp(1st gen),Carver TFM-45,Carver M-400a,Panasonic TC-P50ST60 50" Plasma(last gen before Plasma production stopped)Pioneer Elite DVL-91,Meridian 519 Dolby AC-3 RF Demodulator,Oppo Digital UDP-205,TiVo Bolt VOX,Nakamich BX-300,Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type VxMR cartridge,Polk SDA-SRS 3.1 TL(with RD-0198 tweeters, upgraded with Larry's rings, black hole5,an Avel-Lindberg 1000VA isolation transformer, VR3 customer crossovers and internal wiring),Polk CS-1000P(with SL-6506 tweeter),Polk Monitor 5jr(with RD-0194 tweeters),Polk RT-35i (1),Polk Mini Monitors,Polk PSW150(4)Monster Power HTPS 7000 MKII Signature series,Monster Power AVS 2000 Signature Series,Various MIT,Monster,Upgrade Company and Belden interconnect,power,HDMI,Coax and Toslink Digital and speaker cables.

    Bedroom 2 channel system:Integra DTM 40.4,Nakamichi BX-100,TiVo mini,Musical Fidelity X-LPS,X-PSU,Carver TFM-25,Sony KV-34XBR970(last of the widescreen tube sets before production stopped)Technics SL-1200MKII,Shure V15 Type V MR cartridge,Polk RT-55(with SL-6506 tweeters),Polk PSW-200 in plexiglass(2),Sony Playstation 3 slim.Monster Power HTPS-7000,Monster AVS-2000, PowerVarious Kimber,Audioquest and MIT interconnects and speaker cables.
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    erniejade wrote: »
    I am glad you noticed the difference as well. It is amazing how big of a difference it is.

    Yes theres a huge difference...they sound so much better. More natural, smooth and controlled.
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    VR3 wrote: »
    Good stuff, the RD0 series tweets are a nice improvement (and more durable).

    Mortal Engines has killer sound, glad I picked it up off the bay on Blu Ray! :)

    Yes Mortal Engines is incredible. I have it on 4k, one of the best looking and the Atmos is one of the best sounding movies I have seen to date.
    Plus it was shot in 8k and down scaled to 4k. Exallent shadow detail and the HDR is top notch.

    I'm still sorting out how I want to go about the crossover upgrade.
    But I'm thinking I'll be getting in touch with you soon.
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    Don’t forget to break in the new tweeters. Run them continuously for a few days to work out the mechanical manufacturing stresses and they will sound even better.

    Yes definitely...I ran them for 4 to 5 hours last night and another 4 or 5 so far today.
    I have the Anthem amv 60 so I'm thinking tomorrow I'll take some run at them with ARC and take a look at what they're doing in my room.

    They are definitely a step up.
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    Hey I have a question...
    I have a set of monitor 10 series II with what I believe are the 2500 tweeters.
    I'm not sure but it's my understanding that I can swap them out for the 3000's.
    If so is this a worth while upgrade or should I even bother with it..?

    Thanks in advance.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 13,504
    ddog wrote: »
    Hey I have a question...
    I have a set of monitor 10 series II with what I believe are the 2500 tweeters.
    I'm not sure but it's my understanding that I can swap them out for the 3000's.
    If so is this a worth while upgrade or should I even bother with it..?

    Thanks in advance.

    RD-0198
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    ddog wrote: »
    Hey I have a question...
    I have a set of monitor 10 series II with what I believe are the 2500 tweeters.
    I'm not sure but it's my understanding that I can swap them out for the 3000's.
    If so is this a worth while upgrade or should I even bother with it..?

    Thanks in advance.

    RD-0198

    I understand that the 198's are the absolute best choice for tweeters but I have a set of 3000 that are now unused.
    Wonder if they would be a significant upgrade over the 2500.

    These speakers are in a non critical listening area.
  • JayMXJayMX Posts: 216
    @ddog, these are the rankings from the “tale of five tweeters” sticky thread. I’d pop the 3000's in and see if you like them better...

    Build Quality

    1. RD0198
    2. RD0194
    3. SL3000
    4. SL2500
    5. SL1000
    6. SL2000

    Frequency Response

    1. RD0198
    2. RD0194
    3. SL3000
    4. SL2500
    5. SL1000
    6. SL2000

    Harmonic Distortion

    1. RD0198
    2. RD0194
    3. SL3000
    4. SL1000
    5. SL2500
    6. SL2000

    Current Collection:
    Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL2000), Monitor 7b (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7C’s (194’s, Dynamat, Sonicaps, Mills, H-nuts), SDA CRS+ (SL2000), RTA12c (194's), SDA SRS 2 (SL2000)

    Repair pile: SRS 3.1TL (198’s)

    Pairs that have passed through:
    Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10c (3x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, SDA2, SDA2a, SDA1b, SDA SRS2

    ...and more to come, it’s a sickness.
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    Hey thanks for the chart... I think I'll give it a try.
    I'm thinking I should use the best that I have on had.

    Hey how'd you make out with you DIY wave-guides?

    Here's one that I made...yk1vw6xmlisc.jpg
  • verbverb Posts: 6,603
    Hey @ddog loving this thread! Looking good! Hey one thing I noticed on the pic's of the tweeters installed, looks like a bit of deflection on the plastic around each of the screws. Did you put a spacer in between the backside of the tweeter at each screw hole location?

    Not sure if the 198's are the same, but the 194's that I used was did not have the molded in spacer. Result is you have a gap between the backside of the mounting plate and the enclosure. Easy fix with a small washer.

    mat5x8uc54dd.png

    May want to check it out.

    Check out my thread, page 4, about 1/2 way down.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/183597/the-sda-srss-have-landed-at-verbs-house/p4
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • JayMXJayMX Posts: 216
    ddog wrote: »
    Hey how'd you make out with you DIY wave-guides?

    Hey that looks perfect! I am slow, currently refinishing a Klipsch rig for my brother's HT. My 3.1's are next. Glad you got a head start and have given me some good inspiration! 👍🏻
    Current Collection:
    Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL2000), Monitor 7b (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7C’s (194’s, Dynamat, Sonicaps, Mills, H-nuts), SDA CRS+ (SL2000), RTA12c (194's), SDA SRS 2 (SL2000)

    Repair pile: SRS 3.1TL (198’s)

    Pairs that have passed through:
    Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10c (3x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, SDA2, SDA2a, SDA1b, SDA SRS2

    ...and more to come, it’s a sickness.
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    edited March 17
    verb wrote: »
    Hey @ddog loving this thread! Looking good! Hey one thing I noticed on the pic's of the tweeters installed, looks like a bit of deflection on the plastic around each of the screws. Did you put a spacer in between the backside of the tweeter at each screw hole location?

    Not sure if the 198's are the same, but the 194's that I used was did not have the molded in spacer. Result is you have a gap between the backside of the mounting plate and the enclosure. Easy fix with a small washer.

    mat5x8uc54dd.png

    May want to check it out.

    Check out my thread, page 4, about 1/2 way down.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/183597/the-sda-srss-have-landed-at-verbs-house/p4

    That's some great advice..
    But no I didn't put the washers on but man I need to.
    I hate it when I overlook things and have to back at it....
    That will help eliminate the crush look from the screws.

    I used thin rope style foam as a gasket. It works great and is air tight.

    Also I used a paste pipe dope...comes in a tube... in all of the screw holes when installing the drivers.
    Makes them air tight and locked them into their holes.ehzehimc61dq.jpg
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,242
    ddog wrote: »
    and locked them into their holes.ehzehimc61dq.jpg

    Uh oh. You're in trouble...
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    B&K Reference 50 Pre/Pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • krazypolkkrazypolk Posts: 470
    ddog wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    Hey @ddog loving this thread! Looking good! Hey one thing I noticed on the pic's of the tweeters installed, looks like a bit of deflection on the plastic around each of the screws. Did you put a spacer in between the backside of the tweeter at each screw hole location?

    Not sure if the 198's are the same, but the 194's that I used was did not have the molded in spacer. Result is you have a gap between the backside of the mounting plate and the enclosure. Easy fix with a small washer.

    mat5x8uc54dd.png

    May want to check it out.

    Check out my thread, page 4, about 1/2 way down.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/183597/the-sda-srss-have-landed-at-verbs-house/p4

    That's some great advice..
    But no I didn't put the washers on but man I need to.
    I hate it when I overlook things and have to back at it....
    That will help eliminate the crush look from the screws.

    I used thin rope style foam as a gasket. It works great and is air tight.

    Also I used a paste pipe dope...comes in a tube... in all of the screw holes when installing the drivers.
    Makes them air tight and locked them into their holes.ehzehimc61dq.jpg

    Will the loctite prove problematic in the event that the drivers need to be removed for some unforeseen reason?
  • VR3VR3 Posts: 23,224
    a0i39pdtf6ni.png

    Believe blue is preferred when you may need to remove in future
    - Not Tom

    Vr3Mods.com ///// Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 13,504
    krazypolk wrote: »
    ddog wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    Hey @ddog loving this thread! Looking good! Hey one thing I noticed on the pic's of the tweeters installed, looks like a bit of deflection on the plastic around each of the screws. Did you put a spacer in between the backside of the tweeter at each screw hole location?

    Not sure if the 198's are the same, but the 194's that I used was did not have the molded in spacer. Result is you have a gap between the backside of the mounting plate and the enclosure. Easy fix with a small washer.

    mat5x8uc54dd.png

    May want to check it out.

    Check out my thread, page 4, about 1/2 way down.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/183597/the-sda-srss-have-landed-at-verbs-house/p4

    That's some great advice..
    But no I didn't put the washers on but man I need to.
    I hate it when I overlook things and have to back at it....
    That will help eliminate the crush look from the screws.

    I used thin rope style foam as a gasket. It works great and is air tight.

    Also I used a paste pipe dope...comes in a tube... in all of the screw holes when installing the drivers.
    Makes them air tight and locked them into their holes.ehzehimc61dq.jpg

    Will the loctite prove problematic in the event that the drivers need to be removed for some unforeseen reason?

    I'd think not since it is made for metal to metal gluing not metal to mdf.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,958
    Get them off those risers and forget the caster idea. You want spikes.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • BlueBirdMusicBlueBirdMusic Registered User Posts: 560
    Love this thread too, and ddog is a very pleasant man. He knows how to listen to the lessons learned by others. Few and far between these days.

    ddog, your speakers will look great.
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 1,045
    I wouldn't use thread locker with Hurricane nuts. If you do the H-nut might turn in the MDF before the screw turns in the the nut. That would cause lots of headaches of you need to remove a driver in the future.
    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,958
    There's no reason to use thread locker, period.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    krazypolk wrote: »
    ddog wrote: »
    verb wrote: »
    Hey @ddog loving this thread! Looking good! Hey one thing I noticed on the pic's of the tweeters installed, looks like a bit of deflection on the plastic around each of the screws. Did you put a spacer in between the backside of the tweeter at each screw hole location?

    Not sure if the 198's are the same, but the 194's that I used was did not have the molded in spacer. Result is you have a gap between the backside of the mounting plate and the enclosure. Easy fix with a small washer.

    mat5x8uc54dd.png

    May want to check it out.

    Check out my thread, page 4, about 1/2 way down.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/183597/the-sda-srss-have-landed-at-verbs-house/p4

    That's some great advice..
    But no I didn't put the washers on but man I need to.
    I hate it when I overlook things and have to back at it....
    That will help eliminate the crush look from the screws.

    I used thin rope style foam as a gasket. It works great and is air tight.

    Also I used a paste pipe dope...comes in a tube... in all of the screw holes when installing the drivers.
    Makes them air tight and locked them into their holes.ehzehimc61dq.jpg

    Will the loctite prove problematic in the event that the drivers need to be removed for some unforeseen reason?

    The pipe dope isn't so much a thread lock as it is a sealant to make sure theres no air escaping from the hole/s. Theres a lot of pressure inside these cabinets.

    Plus the putty is very moist and creamy. I'm thinking as old and as dried out (i live in the Mojave desert) as these speakers are, I figured the would will soak it up like lotion to your skin.

    I've used this on all my speakers that I've been inside of and have never had a problem with disassembly at a later date
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    TennMan wrote: »
    I wouldn't use thread locker with Hurricane nuts. If you do the H-nut might turn in the MDF before the screw turns in the the nut. That would cause lots of headaches of you need to remove a driver in the future.

    Would you mind pointing me in the right direction to check out this Hurricane nuts you guys keep talking. I really think I need to get some.

    Thanks in advance.
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    Love this thread too, and ddog is a very pleasant man. He knows how to listen to the lessons learned by others. Few and far between these days.

    ddog, your speakers will look great.

    Thank you sir...
    You guys are a really great bunch of people. One of if not the best forum I've been on.
    These speakers are fantastic. Never know they could be so hot rod'd... really learning a lot here.

    Thanks guys
  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    F1nut wrote: »
    Get them off those risers and forget the caster idea. You want spikes.

    Ok so heres the scoop....

    My theater has two rows of three seats.
    1st row on the ground and 2nd row on a 12" riser.
    Ear hight is 43 in 1st row and 53 2nd row.
    So I set up the room so all tweeters in the bed speakers are at 47".
    This is just about halfway between the two rows.

    Tweeters in the 3.1TL's are at 17"....

    So long story short, I've ditched the the feet and the casters.
    Since I love the mid bass slam of these speakers I've decided to set them on top of HSU mk15hp's running in stereo. This has proven to be a wicked setup!! Also moves my speakers to my 47" tweeter hight as well.

    The theater it 7.4.2 , 2mono subs and 2 l&r stereo subs.
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,875
    There's multiple formulations of the Loctite/Permatex/Henkle thread sealer just as there's different varieties of the infamous "Power Grab" construction adhesive.

    565, 567, and 592 are the most common. Each has their place, although I tend to use the 592 in automotive work. These sealers have an "anaerobic hardening" characteristic somewhat like thread lockers, but on a much more mild scale. They do an EXCELLENT job of sealing pipe thread, and head bolts threads that go into the water jacket of an engine.

    They used to advertise these sealers as "PST"--Pipe Sealer with Teflon. I suspect they aren't using genuine Teflon any more, which is why the PST label kinda went away.

    Any one of those items will be fine for sealing the screws that go into the Hurricane nuts (if a person thinks it's needed in that application. I don't.) Directly into wood...I have my doubts that you're gaining anything. Since wood is porous, the anaerobic hardening is never going to happen.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,958
    edited March 18
    Oops, thought you had 2.3TL'S. Anyway, putting anything on top of a sub is not a good idea.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • ddogddog Posts: 194
    F1nut wrote: »
    Oops, thought you had 2.3TL'S. Anyway, putting anything on top of a sub is not a good idea.

    The sub I quit a bit larger then the speakers and being as how the 3.1's are 100lbs...
    I'm purty sure I'm gtg...
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