Tandberg TL 5010 Speakers
Conradicles
Posts: 6,175
Got a pair of these local and really dig the cabinet and design. Crossover PCB is superb for the year these were manufactured (around 1971 - 1974). This is going to be a winter project with new capacitors, new seals for the drivers, new mounting hardware, possibly new binding posts and a lite sand and shine for the cabinets.
Ongoing thread, and here are a few pictures:
Ongoing thread, and here are a few pictures:
Comments
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Not mine, but here is a pic of the speakers with grill removed:
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Nice. Looks like a fun projectHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Not something one sees every day -- probably not even in Norway at this late date
In case the OP's not aware of it, there is a website with a smattering of Tandberg literature & catalogs (not all in English, not surprisingly).
http://www.kallhovde.com/Njord Noatun's Vintage Audio Resources.html
the specific link for Tandberg stuff is:
http://sportsbil.com/tandberg/
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Dang. Stuff like that is not available around here.
How do they sound now? Really nice pickup! -
mhardy6647 wrote: »Not something one sees every day -- probably not even in Norway at this late date
In case the OP's not aware of it, there is a website with a smattering of Tandberg literature & catalogs (not all in English, not surprisingly).
http://www.kallhovde.com/Njord Noatun's Vintage Audio Resources.html
the specific link for Tandberg stuff is:
http://sportsbil.com/tandberg/
You are a walking encyclopedia of all things audio. We are all better for it. Thanks! -
I have no life
De nada.
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The tanbergs I've seen are TEAK cabs, beautiful wood. Never had my ears on them but would like too. Nice find!Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
Scandinavian loudspeakers, by and large, very niceto listen to, IME/IMO.
-- am I stereotyping?
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soundfreak1 wrote: »The tanbergs I've seen are TEAK cabs, beautiful wood. Never had my ears on them but would like too. Nice find!
They are beautiful cabinets. -
Thanks for the information mhardy!
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mhardy6647 wrote: »Scandinavian loudspeakers, by and large, very niceto listen to, IME/IMO.
-- am I stereotyping?
A friend of mine bought some Jamo speakers back in 1984. They sounded good, but my baseline at the time was, shall we say, "relatively low".
They were the type that had what looked like louvers over the tweeter. -
Word to the wise! If doing any sanding on teak wood wear a filter mask as teak dust can make you very sick. Learned this in the boat building busines as a young teen building yachts. There is an OIL in them that is somewhat poisonous.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
soundfreak1 wrote: »Word to the wise! If doing any sanding on teak wood wear a filter mask as teak dust can make you very sick. Learned this in the boat building busines as a young teen building yachts. There is an OIL in them that is somewhat poisonous.
Great information! Thanks! -
Conradicles wrote: »Got a pair of these local and really dig the cabinet and design. Crossover PCB is superb for the year these were manufactured (around 1971 - 1974). This is going to be a winter project with new capacitors, new seals for the drivers, new mounting hardware, possibly new binding posts and a lite sand and shine for the cabinets.
Ongoing thread, and here are a few pictures:
Tandberg made excellent receivers as well. The drivers on this speakers look phenomenal, the crossovers look really clean too. I would test the components before replacing anything... you may find that their still under spec. -
Hmmm,
Frequency Response: 35Hz to 22kHz
Power Handling: 45W (max continuous)
Crossover Frequency: 700, 2000Hz
Impedance: 4Ω-8Ω
Xover 700hz,2000hz
I'd replace the resistors at least with some Mills...
Better inductors too if the old are not hand wound...
The Xover diagram is at hifiengine.
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FWIW the only thing I'd be looking (hard) at are those capacitors. I cannot tell what they are based on the photo. If (????) they're NP electrolytics, that's what I'd change.
They may well not be -- but I ain't sure.
PS are all y'all cool with the protective used of the light bulb?
I mean, it's a valid thing that's been done in many loudspeaker designs -- but it seems a little... inelegant, doesn't it?
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mhardy6647 wrote: »FWIW the only thing I'd be looking (hard) at are those capacitors. I cannot tell what they are based on the photo. If (????) they're NP electrolytics, that's what I'd change.
They may well not be -- but I ain't sure.
PS are all y'all cool with the protective used of the light bulb?
I mean, it's a valid thing that's been done in many loudspeaker designs -- but it seems a little... inelegant, doesn't it?
Those tin cans should all be checked. The lamps were used quite often by many manufacturers. They do exactly what they're supposed to. If you have a ported system, being driven hard, you will frequently see them glow.
Not sure how they affect the audio signal. They could be replaced with a resistor, but you give up protection. In my opinion, much less intrusive than Polyswitches. I usually replace them with new, equivalent "Festoon" lamps.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Oh, there's no doubt that using a light bulb in series (like the so-called "dim bulb tester") does what it's supposed to do. I'm just not sure how audibly unobtrusively it does it.
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It could add a certain "brightness" to the treble?
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KennethSwauger wrote: »It could add a certain "brightness" to the treble?
I know WATT you mean. Or were you just trying to make LIGHT of the situation? EDISON the phone. I'll ask his opinion. Although maybe he will just LAMPoon it as you did. SOCKET to me, Ed. -
And we get all this banter for free!
Lordy, I love this place!
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In days of yore Polk made an on-wall type speaker that used the same tweeter protection device. Sometimes owners would telephone us asking about the light they could see blinking at them from the speaker.
Anyone remember a British speaker that used a small light to help with speaker positioning? -
I'm thinking the top modules on the KEF 105, but Google's not backin' me up on that
PS If any of youse guyses happens to have a surplus pair of KEF 105s collectin' dust... shoot me a PM
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Heh -- I think I was very close
One-oh-five... point two.
source: http://www.kef.com/uploads/files/en/museum_pdf/70s/Reference_Series_Model_105_2_r.pdf
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You are correct, the listener turned the upper section until they could see the small light in each speaker. The light had a very narrow dispersion so it would "blink" on. Great sounding speakers! There was a pair on CL a few months ago near DC that looked in great shape.
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Yeah, I always liked 'em.
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Update:
Ordered Mills resistors from Sonic Craft and Dayton capacitors from P.E.
Also ordered some of the P.E. speaker gasket material. I'm going to stick with the stock inductors to keep cost down for this project.
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