SRS 1.2 no bass
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F1 sorry if I'm coming of as obnoxious, still in the learning curve! But in relation to the posters dilemma do you mean a reduction in deep bass as that's understandable but can it also cause a practically no bass condition? And again in relevance to his problem is it likely to be indicative to both spks,In the case of my 10's one mid has a very slight tear in one of the mids surrounds that i assume must allow for some slight degree of air to pass but i don't sense any reduction of bass with respect to the other
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As to the push test, how far are you pushing in the PR? I don't push it until it stops, I push it in until the mids come out some, then let it go.
As for the dead space behind the wall (the other room), I'll have to say that isn't the problem. My 1Bs are sitting against the same wall as the 1.2s (opposite side) and I have no bass issues with them.
Push in and hold the PR. All the woofers should extend fully, and begin to retract after 3-5 seconds.
I would also check and make sure the sub-bass drive inductors are connected. The large spool inductor the crossover mounts to, is the one to check. There are two black wires coming off the crossover that connect to the spool.
Home Theater/2 Channel:
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This may not be optimum, but it's not the root cause of the no-bass problem.The push test doesn't hold the drivers out, but they go in kinda slow, maybe 2 seconds or so. It's the same as my SDA 2s and they sound bassy...
Don't they "begin" to retract almost instantly, but don't reach the neutral position until several seconds have gone by?westmassguy wrote: »Push in and hold the PR. All the woofers should extend fully, and begin to retract after 3-5 seconds.
Once the midwoofers have returned to the neutral position, releasing the PR should cause them to retract further--and then return to the neutral position after a few seconds.
The total lack of bass that's being reported is not due to a leaky cabinet. I think you could bore a two-inch hole in the side and still have more bass than a "land line telephone".
If the drivers are not of mixed-polarity, and the cabinets are wired for proper polarity, I have to believe that the amplifier, preamp, source, or speaker crossover is toast. A fault this bad should not take weeks to find.I've tried one speaker and then the other. I did swap the wires before I took out the drivers to check wiring polarity. The wires on the inside of the cup match the outside speaker terminals. All the drivers are wired correctly.
Howzabout this: Remove speaker wires. Take an ohmmeter, measure the resistance from the various points mentioned in the SDA troubleshooting Guide for the 1.2 speakers on page 4 of the document:
https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/47379.pdf
Too low = potential amplifier problems from driving a too-low impedance load. Low impedance might suggest shorted crossover components including shunts to ground, bypassing the drivers.
Too high = too much resistance in the midwoofer circuit, not enough current flow to properly move the midwoofers.
Post edited by Schurkey on -
Don't they "begin" to retract almost instantly, but don't reach the neutral position until several seconds have gone by?westmassguy wrote: »Push in and hold the PR. All the woofers should extend fully, and begin to retract after 3-5 seconds.
Once the midwoofers have returned to the neutral position, releasing the PR should cause them to retract further--and then return to the neutral position after a few seconds.
That's how all of the Polk's I own have responded to the PR test.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
Westmass thanks for your input, In consideration of your expertise I was hoping to hear your opinions from a crossover perspective,Its not my situation just trying to learn from another's problem.Which leads me to ask would a drive inductor issue in one spk cause a excessive [or any] reduction of bass in the other? And could it be likely that both to become issue in tandem? [although this may likely be cause as perhaps the crossovers at some point may have been tampered with]
Schurkey many thanks for your input too [didn't see it till after i posted] got it bookmarked it was very informative!!
Post edited by befuddle on -
Push the PR in all the way and hold it that way. The mids will pop out, start counting as they slowly recede and stop.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks F1 still as informative after reading it a 3rd time. [sorry I couldn't resist!]
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covered by Jesse and Schurkey
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If a 3.5-4sec retract time Is the standard norm across the board my 4 sets of varying vintage [80's] models have developed leaks over time to the same extent As with a one-1000 two-1000 3-1000 count all mine retract back at about 3-1000 [perhaps 2,9-3,1to be more accurate hard to gauge in fractions] and then further retract and settle to a seated position after the pr is released
Thats 18- 6,5 mids between 4 sets of spks all performing the same action using that test
This suggests to me that either the joint caulking has dried out in all to the extent that air is escaping thru untight joints or other sealed areas have become questionable at the same decay rate or that a 2,9-3,1 may be a more accurate original manufacture detract time
Pitdog you've changed you post [dont see the need. but in so doing amusing never the less]Post edited by befuddle on -
Thanks F1 still as informative after reading it a 3rd time. [sorry I couldn't resist!]
LOL.....sorry, I didn't see the other responses before I posted.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Can't see how a slight cabinet leak could cause that amount of massive reduction in bass as was suggested!
Because the PR is fluid coupled (air) any air leak in the cabinet means the PR will not move as much as it should and therefore not produce deep bass.
Did you read what the OP said a few posts back.
He said the bass sounds like a land line telephone........Like zero bass at all..
He did not say there was no deep bass, he said no bass whatsoever.
Look back several posts, unless his description is very off from the reality.
The passive radiator thing would not cause the bass to vanish completely. -
Take a few screws out of any driver or the PR and see how much bass you get.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Have you tried playing a bass heavy song and walking around the room? Is there landline telephone bass everywhere in the room or are there areas of the room that sound like a subwoofer?afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
I do think the issue is amp related.
Damn predictive text/auto correct strikes again. That should have read, I do NOT.....Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
F1 sorry if I'm coming of as obnoxious, still in the learning curve! But in relation to the posters dilemma do you mean a reduction in deep bass as that's understandable but can it also cause a practically no bass condition? And again in relevance to his problem is it likely to be indicative to both spks,In the case of my 10's one mid has a very slight tear in one of the mids surrounds that i assume must allow for some slight degree of air to pass but i don't sense any reduction of bass with respect to the other
No worries. Like everyone else I'm just throwing out possible causes for the issue. Since he said the push test resulted in 2 seconds it would be logical that he has air leaks, which could be in both cabinets. Of course, now that we know he didn't perform the test properly all bets are off on the air leak angle.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
If a 3.5-4sec retract time Is the standard norm across the board my 4 sets of varying vintage [80's] models have developed leaks over time to the same extent
Pitdog you've changed you post [dont see the need. but in so doing amusing never the less]
Not all the drivers are made the same. My MW6600 drivers in my SDA1 signatures easily take 4-5sec to retract. I also have rings and newer gaskets another member had made for a group buy that are different than stock. Different folks count faster or slower, my point was to try and get the OP to understand that they should not fall quickly.
I changed because I didn't feel the need to repeat repeat repeat or confuse the OP.
I'm sorry but I feel we are not getting good answers from the OP. It may very well take someone going and having a look see to correct this.
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If a 3.5-4sec retract time Is the standard norm across the board my 4 sets of varying vintage [80's] models have developed leaks over time to the same extent
Pitdog you've changed you post [dont see the need. but in so doing amusing never the less]
It may very well take someone going and having a look see to correct this.
Make sure you book on United...
I'm currently in Germany, come on by.
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erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
Westmass thanks for your input, In consideration of your expertise I was hoping to hear your opinions from a crossover perspective,Its not my situation just trying to learn from another's problem.Which leads me to ask would a drive inductor issue in one spk cause a excessive [or any] reduction of bass in the other? And could it be likely that both to become issue in tandem? [although this may likely be cause as perhaps the crossovers at some point may have been tampered with]
Schurkey many thanks for your input too [didn't see it till after i posted] got it bookmarked it was very informative!!
Any problem with the large spool inductor would only affect the one speaker it was located in. The crossovers may have been mucked up by someone previously.
With the interconnect in place, and if those inductors are not functioning, the dimensional woofers will be out of phase with the stereo woofers, canceling each other out. They're designed to allow the dimensional woofers to produce bass from the stereo side, in phase, below 150hzHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
txcoastal1 wrote: »If a 3.5-4sec retract time Is the standard norm across the board my 4 sets of varying vintage [80's] models have developed leaks over time to the same extent
Pitdog you've changed you post [dont see the need. but in so doing amusing never the less]
It may very well take someone going and having a look see to correct this.
Make sure you book on United...I'm currently in Germany, come on by.
yes I'm well aware of this. -
Battery test, all good. They all go the same direction.
Which direction did they go? Should all move outward.
Also, the OP hasn't mentioned that he's using the SDA cable yet.
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Mine are the same. SDA SRS 2If i recall correctly you push until they extend and hold till they settle back down
in my case using that method on a pair of vintage 7/10/rta11/and 1bs they recede in around 3 seconds but dont fully seat till i let the pr go
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lol
I was about to quit this whole discussion because of that comment... -
I have tested both with and without SDA cable.
On the push test, am I pushing the PR in until it stops going in? I push it in some, a little between slow and not too slow, until the mids come out a bit, maybe 7/16 to 1/2 inch. I don't push it in fast and hard to make the mids "pop out". I hold the PR until the mids settle and when I let the PR back out, the mids suck in a bit.
Wow, that sounds like a sexual harassment complaint coming soon... -
I bought these from a guy that had 2 sets of 1.2s. He called me to sell after I posted in the classifieds. These were hooked up for listening when I bought them and I thought they sounded good. Maybe he had a sub hooked up to his system. These have a gouge on the back/side corner (wide, but not very deep) of the left speaker. He absolutely would not sell the other set. Maybe the xovers are screwed?
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Entirely possible, (maybe even "likely") but who cares? You're going to rebuild them anyway.Maybe the xovers are screwed?
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dan...with regards to the battery test....which way do the drivers move?
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I can play rap and techno stuff (newer 808 heavy bass, not old school bass) and leave the bass control at 0 and max out the amp (decibel meter shows 125db at 1 meter), and the mids move out about 1/2 inch with the beat.
So when you crank it up, what are the passive radiators doing ?
And I may (probably did) have missed it, but what amplification are you using ? I think it's an Emotiva amp but disregarding any discussion of tonal qualities, you should be getting a lot more bass than "phone quality".
So, again, when it's cranked up, what are the PR's doing ?
Sal Palooza -
Slightly off topic, but still.......I missed this.decibel meter shows 125db at 1 meter)
There's no way you're reaching 125dB with a 450wpc amp and 90dB efficient speakers. Better have that meter calibrated.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I can play rap and techno stuff (newer 808 heavy bass, not old school bass) and leave the bass control at 0 and max out the amp (decibel meter shows 125db at 1 meter), and the mids move out about 1/2 inch with the beat.
If I do the bass-drop stuff (I think some of that is remastered to blow up speakers), I get more movement, but only when it's up loud. As for normal listening, if bass is at 0 to +10 and loudness is off (don't care for the tone change), it sounds about as bassy as an old dial phone.
New school 808 not old school....never knew 808s were new =P
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"Telephone quality bass" but still movement of the woofers.
That would signify, no bass under a couple hundred hertz, and obviously woofers moving opposite of each other to cancel out all bass nearly.
But yet battery test I think was positive.
