SRS 1.2 no bass
Comments
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Out of my continued curiosity but more so out of having nothing better to do with my time I've decided for the s-hits and giggles ,sneers and jeers to attempt to sum up this thread,So..
Poster is located in Germany and is experiencing a near no bass condition in both spks.He has purchased a used set of 1.2 SDA's and heard them prior to purchase and thought they sounded good but in hindsight thinks the seller may have had a sub connected.Somehow later[no reason given ] 5 mf's froze up.Having a pair of 1c's he swapped out the 1cs drivers for use in the 1.2's and stated latter he got a additional 6503 so that the 1.2's are now using all the proper drivers and that the 6503's are in their proper inner positions.His main amp is a emotova xpa-2 [450wps] but has also tried with a kenwood and onkyo.States amp choices are limited due to the fact that 220v is used there.In conducting a listening test with the bass set on 0 and the amp up full states that the mf's move out about a half a inch with the beat and states at norm listening with bass set 0-+10 [loudness off] it snds about as bassy as a old dial phone.
Using the pr push leak test [prior to disassembly] he states that he gets under 3sec but it equals his other set of SDA's that are providing good bass,[which leads to the assumption that its at least a 2 sec time.]
doing the battery test he confirms that phasing and wiring is correct [A member confirms with pic provided that the wiring on binding post cup is correct] and OP is sure that all wiring is connected to their proper assigned connections and states that with the batt test that all mf's moved in the same direction
While apart he reseals the upper and lower caulked plates
Its suggested that room conditions may be factor but another member states that even in the middle of his 30x40 garage with a 19 foot ceiling that his SDA's still had exhibited excellent bass
Westmass recommends checking the connections of the 2 black wires connecting the large spool imductor but notes that this condition will only affect one spk leaving the other unaffected
Schurkey recommends and outlines performing a ohm test on page 4
Westmass also on page 4 explains a fault issue condition and the function of the large spool inductor
Still awaiting word from the OP as to the results of the recommendations that Westmass and Schurkey provided on page 4..[ post date-apr13/17]
Curiosity hopes that the op [Dan] keeps us apprised
BTW to all that read this this weekend-- Have A Most Excellent Easter!!
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Slightly off topic, but still.......I missed this.decibel meter shows 125db at 1 meter)
There's no way you're reaching 125dB with a 450wpc amp and 90dB efficient speakers. Better have that meter calibrated.
And you may need some of these
https://www.uline.com/Grp_227/Hearing-Protection?pricode=WM236&AdKeyword=hearing protection&AdMatchtype=e&gclid=CIiM-qTapNMCFUI2gQodgzMD9w&gclsrc=aw.dsMojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modded)...Velodyne Optimum 8 subwoofer
1KVA Dreadnought
Marantz SA 8005
Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570
Sony PS4
Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video
"All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER" -
Oh, thought the 808 bass was this new bass that makes your fillings fall out. Well, whatever it is they are using now is a very different type of bass as to what they were using in the 80s and 90s.
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Oh, thought the 808 bass was this new bass that makes your fillings fall out. Well, whatever it is they are using now is a very different type of bass as to what they were using in the 80s and 90s.
That is the state of popular music these days. I don't even like showing my rig to younger (as well as my age) non audiophiles. When they hear how much time and money I've invested all they care about is two things: bass and volume.
"My stock car stereo with $500 sub and amp sounds better than this!"
Eff off and no it doesn't.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
The ohm test will have to wait. I blew up my multimeter on my brother's car so I have to get another. It's Easter and the Germans have everything closed until Tues.
As to resealing the entire inside of the cabinet, that will have to wait too. I can't take anything apart and just leave it laying around, my grandkids will eat it. I'm getting ready for another TDY in a few days and won't be back for a few weeks. -
Dan,
Sent you 2 PM's asking your location...did you get them? I'm also in Germany and have 1.2tl's & CRS's w/the tl mod...plus 1C's in storage. I've modded all 3 sets w/Gimpod boards. Not going to give my exact location but willing to help troubleshoot if we're close. PM me if you're interested.
Oh yeah...owned an XPA-2 several years ago and sold it to another member on this site. So, I have experience with Emotiva.
John➀Speakers: Polk1.2tl's (Uber Mods) ➁Pre/Amp/DAC: PS Audio BHK Signature & 250, DirectStream ➂Cables/IC's: MIT S1Bi-Wire/S1 Balanced +Avel Lindberg 1000VA "Dreadnought" ➃Power Conditioner: PS Audio P15 Power Plant ➄Power Cords: Core Power Technologies Gold, DH Labs Power Plus DIY w/Neotech NC-P301 & P311ends ➅Streaming: Roon ROCK on wifi'd NUC, TP-Link WAP, & Uptone EtherREGEN, AfterDark, Emperor Double Crown Clock, Black Modernize LPS, PS Audio AirLens⟿Ω☯☥☮⟿🔊♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬♩♪♫♬ -
I think its time to sell them to someone that understands them better... where abouts do you live?
Maybe you need to scan back and read....
Here let me spell it out
G E R M A N Y
here ya go scooter -
Now that wasn't nice [lol]
As he is just another among a long list of people that seem not to bother to take into account what a thread was about or what may have been said during its coarse!
Not meant to be insulting, but it seems like you may count yourself among them as evidenced by a repeated comment you posted in this thread in regards to the push leak test -
Hi all, I'm still alive. Still away for work for a while. Internet sucks. Been using it when it works to do my college stuff....
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I've been going through this 5 page thread trying help the guy out. One thing that was never mentioned was that Polk used wacky color combinations for connecting their drivers. At least for my 2Bs black is the positive and white negative on the #6503 the #6511 blue is + and green is = which goes against everything in the low voltage alarm and telco industries where red is always positive and black negative. So besides having frozen and the wrong drivers in place they could of easily been miss wired just on color code alone... caveat here, I don't know color scheme of the 1.2s..Lew2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
Now that wasn't nice [lol]
As he is just another among a long list of people that seem not to bother to take into account what a thread was about or what may have been said during its coarse!
Not meant to be insulting, but it seems like you may count yourself among them as evidenced by a repeated comment you posted in this thread in regards to the push leak test
You would be correct. I'm man enough to admit it. I was trying to be funny not condescending. -
deleted...Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.