Before and After with Mr Andrew Jones

Options
13»

Comments

  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited June 2016
    Options
    madmax wrote: »
    The 20-39 is exactly what you don't want for music. Go with a sealed sub.

    lol. I don't have it anymore so that's a good thing.

    What about Energy subs?

    Martin Logan?

    @DSkip - I've never heard of that brand.EDIT - I see that it's Polk Audio. I've not heard anything favorable about Polk subs.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,534
    Options
    halo wrote: »
    @DSkip - I've never heard of that brand.EDIT - I see that it's Polk Audio. I've not heard anything favorable about Polk subs.

    The micro's are actually QUITE good for music, the issue was the MSRP and buying new from a dealer as the prices were overinflated.

    Since they are discontinued the prices have dropped.

    @DarqueKnight did a good review on the MicroPro's years ago and liked them IIRC.

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    Options
    I had a small polk sub once, think it was around $200. I considered it a waste of 1 cubic foot of space in my house. :)
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited June 2016
    Options
    I finally got the bass response out of the UF5.

    The bass isn't perfect, but it is better.

    The magic spot, in my room, is 8" from the back wall.

    Surprisingly, the highs and mids are still focused in the center even with the speakers way back there. Must be the concentric mid/tweeter design. Soundstage isn't wide.

    I've never seen anything like this.

    From what I've been reading, the UB5 like to be close to a wall for bass response as well. So weird. Well, I'd say it's just my room but others are posting close proximity to the wall as well.
    Post edited by halo on
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited June 2016
    Options
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    Options
    I bought one of the micro Pro 2000 and really liked it, it has a great finish, and build quality, and sounded good too. Mine developed a rattle after a few days and I returned it to Amazon. They only had one so I got my money back and bought an svs sealed ultra.

    Unfortunate I was one of those suckers that paid a grand for one. Thankfully I got my money back on that one.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited June 2016
    Options
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    Options
    madmax wrote: »
    lol. I will judge them when they arrive and I can put them through their paces! My bedroom has great acoustics. All the speakers sound great in there. Too bad that they don't all fit!

    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,315
    Options
    How about trying them about 2.5 feet from the wall?. How far away do your normally listen away from the speakers?
    Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    Options
    Is the sub crawl meant to be with the sub at ear level, playing bass heavy music, while crawling on the floor to locate the best bass response?

    Am I looking for articulate bass or where it has the most presence?
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,352
    edited June 2016
    Options
    halo wrote: »
    Is the sub crawl meant to be with the sub at ear level, playing bass heavy music, while crawling on the floor to locate the best bass response?

    Am I looking for articulate bass or where it has the most presence?

    Hi Victor! Just listen to Emmylou Harris, "I Don't Have to Crawl" to find your bass. A good video about it below. I just walk around, lean over. My knees are worn too much for crawling around on a floor, then getting up. Putting sub in listen position on chair at chest level would allow you to move around and listen at ear level. Some folks with 2.1 will actually place subs higher than just on the floor, but you can't use a folding table, it must be robust.

    I listen for best bass quality. In my case it was best for subs to be between and way behind speakers for length of bass waves to hit at listening position. The subs supplement my nether frequencies for music I don't listen too all the time, like organ, dubstep, 25Hz to 35Hz range. My speakers actually perform on their own for most music. Some have said "you don't need subs" and "why would you want to listen to that" for when they come in...lol

    As you move from my listen position toward speakers, the low bass will gradually null out then return. I don't think NHT makes the B-12d subs anymore. They were around $800 each IIRC. I purchased scratch and dent for less and cant find any scratches and dents. Very good bass quality, lots of adjustments. I actually need two 15" subs for my 10K cubic foot + space, but they are too big and costly for the small percentage of time I need them.

    Once the OT dies down be nice to hook up.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV3oLLMgS-M
    Post edited by SCompRacer on
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    Options
    After reading some of the UB5 bookshelf reviews I'm worried they will be too bass heavy in my room.
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited June 2016
    Options
    madmax wrote: »
    After reading some of the UB5 bookshelf reviews I'm worried they will be too bass heavy in my room.
    i doubt it. Most of the people I've read about and talked to who have owned the Debut B6 & the UB5 say the B6 digs deeper. I'm guessing that the B5 & UB5 are similar on bass response but the mids and highs are more forward with the UB5. However, the B6 need more breathing room behind them and the UB5 can be right against a wall.

    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    Options
    The B6 was bass heavy with one amp I tried and just right with another. I think it might have to do with the damping factor of the amps.

    For the LS50 setup I just found a pair of REL T5 subs for $700 on AGON. Eventually this is the same system where I will remove the LS50 and install the UB5 for testing. Eventually. Some day. Whenever they happen to ship.

    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited June 2016
    Options
    madmax wrote: »
    The B6 was bass heavy with one amp I tried and just right with another. I think it might have to do with the damping factor of the amps.

    For the LS50 setup I just found a pair of REL T5 subs for $700 on AGON. Eventually this is the same system where I will remove the LS50 and install the UB5 for testing. Eventually. Some day. Whenever they happen to ship.

    I'm surprised that you haven't ordered the discounted pair yet. You should contact ELAC CS directly since you preordered on Amazon.

    My replacement set of UB5 shipped out already and will be here next week.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    Options
    Sadly, the UB5 didn't work out for me either. They didn't work in the living room, even with the SB-1000 sub.

    I ended up going back to the Energy RC-10 bookshelf speakers in the living room. They lack detail compared to the UB5/UF5 but the Energy speakers have a "fuller" sound to them. I don't think the Energy speakers are really "lacking" anything but the ELAC speakers were lacking a lot.

    The ELAC speakers made a brief appearance in my bedroom set up and they did quite well but I cannot justify the expense for a pair of speakers that sees use seldomly.

    I want to give a HUGE shout out to @dromunds for selling me back the RC-LCR that he bought from me. Once I'd made up my mind that the ELAC speakers were a mistake for me, in my environment, I wanted to get back to the Energy set up that I was pretty happy with before the upgrade-itis. Don got me back to where I wanted to be and I am very grateful if you ever have a chance to deal with him, he's a stand up guy.

    I sold the RC-70 floorstanding speakers to pay for the UF5s so I was on the lookout for those as well. As luck would have it, a set in excellent condition popped up on Craigslist along with a RC-LCR. I had wanted to try an RC-LCR front stage so I grabbed that from the seller as well.

    I cannot thank my family and my wife enough for putting up with all the speaker swapping that went on recently. People dropped what they were doing to go to BFE, IL to pick up the RC-70 + RC-LCR, to box up and ship back the ELACs (HUGE shout out to ELAC CS for taking back the speakers and for trying to make me happy with a swap of the UF5 for the UB5).

    Now, about the SVS SB-1000, what a DISAPPOINTMENT! I ran a pink noise tone through the mains and got them set at 74 db. I ran the same tone through the SVS, starting at 12 o'clock on the volume with the X-over set at 50Hz and I heard NOTHING. I gradually increased the volume level until I was at maximum and it was barely audible. I started to turn the crossover up higher and higher and I was getting sound output now but it wasn't matching the mains. It couldn't even get to 74db. I did the sub crawl and all that, trying to find the spot where it was loudest/louder. The best spot for sound is very inconvenient as is the second best spot.

    I'm talking with SVS now to try and figure out what to do. I was just going to return it but they believe that there's an error in my calibration. I'm willing to work with them to try an figure it out but I don't see this sub working for me.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    Options
    Glad to hear you got your old speakers back. In regards to the SB1000 I have to 100% agree that you may have it set up all wrong. I sit at least 15 feet away from mine and it pounds enough to feel it in your chest. Volume is maybe 3 clicks over half, I haven't even took it to full volume yet, as it has that much bass. Please keep in mind these subs take some break in. My PB ultra was flat out disappointing until I put some hours on it, once the driver loosened up I had to dial back the gain at the sub.

    How is this sub hooked up? Using a stereo pair of RCA's? Or just one in the left channel, LFE hookup?
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • JPete
    JPete Posts: 295
    Options
    I'd be disappointed with that SVS too from what you're saying. I have the SB12, which is an old model, maybe 400w RMS bash amp? On the side of the couch, facing the front of the room, and crossed over at 35Hz. Not even at half gain and it will pound when I crank the volume...
    Lexicon RT-10, Parasound P5, McCormack DNA 0.5, Polk SDA CRS+, SVS Sub
    Schiit Modi, Luminous Audio Axiom II, McCormack DNA-1, Digital Phase AP 2
    Marantz AV7701, Emotiva XPA-5, Paradigm 11se Mkii, DCM Time Windows, NHT 2C, SVS Sub

    Spares - Kenwood C1 Pre, NAD 2200PE, Polk Monitor 10B, Polk Model 11, other odds and ends
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    Options
    I forgot To mention if your phase isn't correctly dialed in it will have no bass as well. I really think you need to spend time with it before faulting the sub. I think your at a level of frustration with this whole experience you're just done with it. That sb1000 is anything but weak.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    Options
    mikeyb128 wrote: »
    Glad to hear you got your old speakers back. In regards to the SB1000 I have to 100% agree that you may have it set up all wrong. I sit at least 15 feet away from mine and it pounds enough to feel it in your chest. Volume is maybe 3 clicks over half, I haven't even took it to full volume yet, as it has that much bass. Please keep in mind these subs take some break in. My PB ultra was flat out disappointing until I put some hours on it, once the driver loosened up I had to dial back the gain at the sub.

    How is this sub hooked up? Using a stereo pair of RCA's? Or just one in the left channel, LFE hookup?

    Stereo RCA from the 2nd set of variable outputs on the Jolida preamp.

    This was an outlet purchase from SVS so it's not new.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    Options
    mikeyb128 wrote: »
    I forgot To mention if your phase isn't correctly dialed in it will have no bass as well. I really think you need to spend time with it before faulting the sub. I think your at a level of frustration with this whole experience you're just done with it. That sb1000 is anything but weak.
    i disagree. I'm quite pleased with the RC-70s and the RX-LCRs.

    I'll try the phase switch on the SVS.

    My last SVS was a 20-39 PCi and it was amazing. I wasn't even at 12 o'clock on the gain and it was shaking the walls in my house.

    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    Options
    Just trying to help trouble shoot, I'm very familiar with this sub. Good luck, I hope you get it figured out.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,464
    Options
    Glad you're on your way back to being settled, Victor. I'm sure it's a relief to be able to get back into what you were comfortable with. Bummer about the ELACs, though, I had high hopes for those. What a deflating experience. I really thought those things were going to work out for you with everything I'd been hearing and reading. eh well [shrug]

    Re: the sub - kinda gotta stand alongside Mikey on this with the SVS for a bit. Seems a little unusual for SVS, doesn't it? Unless there's truly something wrong with it, I can't imagine how you're having such a disappointing experience. Curious, have you checked to see whether the driver is actually moving and what kind of action it's seeing? Do you notice bass anywhere at all in the space? Still though, right to bring SVS in on it and see what they have to say. Definitely don't want to be running it with the volume cranked. Does sound like your system's pulled the calibration down on the sub. I have minimal experience with those things, but man, they always seem to draw my sub level waaaaay down. Have you tried running it all manually with the xover set at 70Hz or 80Hz, just to see? There's also a Q setting on some subs. I can't remember which way affects the tightness, but one of them makes it loose and flappy like some ex-gf's from high school who had too many kids with different dads, and the other one makes it tight. If it's too tight, it may be sounding scant for you. Does the PB-1000 have this control?
    I disabled signatures.
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    Options
    msg wrote: »
    Glad you're on your way back to being settled, Victor. I'm sure it's a relief to be able to get back into what you were comfortable with. Bummer about the ELACs, though, I had high hopes for those. What a deflating experience. I really thought those things were going to work out for you with everything I'd been hearing and reading. eh well [shrug]

    Re: the sub - kinda gotta stand alongside Mikey on this with the SVS for a bit. Seems a little unusual for SVS, doesn't it? Unless there's truly something wrong with it, I can't imagine how you're having such a disappointing experience. Curious, have you checked to see whether the driver is actually moving and what kind of action it's seeing? Do you notice bass anywhere at all in the space? Still though, right to bring SVS in on it and see what they have to say. Definitely don't want to be running it with the volume cranked. Does sound like your system's pulled the calibration down on the sub. I have minimal experience with those things, but man, they always seem to draw my sub level waaaaay down. Have you tried running it all manually with the xover set at 70Hz or 80Hz, just to see? There's also a Q setting on some subs. I can't remember which way affects the tightness, but one of them makes it loose and flappy like some ex-gf's from high school who had too many kids with different dads, and the other one makes it tight. If it's too tight, it may be sounding scant for you. Does the PB-1000 have this control?

    There are three knobs for adjustment on the back. From top to bottom they are 1) Volume/Gain 2) Phase 3) Crossover (50 Hz - 250 Hz). There is also a power switch and a receptacle for the supplied power cord (you cannot upgrade the cord alone on this model). LINE level and Speaker level inputs.

    Screen%20Shot%202016-06-23%20at%205.31.48%20PM_zpszjwzuqkm.png
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,464
    Options
    Were you using the LFE input or the other one?
    I forget how this works.
    One of them is for xover control from the pre/pro, right? And the other is full range, controlled with the crossover knob on the sub? I vaguely recall having an issue with one or the other in the past, can't remember which was correct, but iirc, one of them I was getting very limited bass.

    So no Q adjustment on this model. No biggie. Was just a stab in the dark at this problem.
    I disabled signatures.
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    Options
    OK, talked with Ed Mullin @ SVS and we figured out the issue with the SB-1000.

    The Jolida vacuum tube preamp doesn't have a strong enough output signal for the sub. He had me run the output from my CDP (Ya folks, still a good idea to a CDP w/ analog outs in your set up or, at the very least, your audio closet) directly to the sub with some bass heavy music (N.W.A. Straight Outta Compton) and set the x-over to 80 Hz so I'm just getting low bass (not midbass + low bass) and voila! Hardly even moved the volume knob and there's the bass output. I don't have time to set it up today but, at the very least, we know that it works. So, I will run speaker level outputs to the sub from my amp to get the signal there or I'll have to buy a line level booster from amazon. I already have speaker cables so I'll go that route first and it's what Ed recommended anyway.

    Thanks for all the input folks!
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,464
    Options
    Excellent!
    I disabled signatures.
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,650
    Options
    halo wrote: »
    OK, talked with Ed Mullin @ SVS and we figured out the issue with the SB-1000.

    The Jolida vacuum tube preamp doesn't have a strong enough output signal for the sub. He had me run the output from my CDP (Ya folks, still a good idea to a CDP w/ analog outs in your set up or, at the very least, your audio closet) directly to the sub with some bass heavy music (N.W.A. Straight Outta Compton) and set the x-over to 80 Hz so I'm just getting low bass (not midbass + low bass) and voila! Hardly even moved the volume knob and there's the bass output. I don't have time to set it up today but, at the very least, we know that it works. So, I will run speaker level outputs to the sub from my amp to get the signal there or I'll have to buy a line level booster from amazon. I already have speaker cables so I'll go that route first and it's what Ed recommended anyway.

    Thanks for all the input folks!

    Ed's a good guy, used to be an active member here.