SDA 2B Proper Resistance Values

That information was supplied by Polk Audio and since they didn't list the 2B's it must not have been available. Do you have a reason to believe something is wrong with your speakers?

Very good sir. All you need to know is the TL mod along with all the other standard mods will take your speakers to a level you won't believe.

That's a good plan.

I imagine all of those would be helpful towards increasing clarity and cohesiveness. Add installing spikes to that list as well.

The "wedge pack", I believe is sufficient for your needs.
Some spikes come with cups/disks that they sit in that will protect floors. In theory, one can slide them around until you find the ideal placement, then add the spikes/disks. It's the solution for hardwood floors, if you decide to go that route.

There was a thread about these recently...

Ah, here we go: LINK

I have told this before.If you don't mind scrounging a bit most audio installation shops use Dynamat Extreme . I asked if they had any and they said they just did an entire trunk and have some scraps and let me have it, and there was enough to do 4 2Bs. Why spend cash if you don't have to. You do not use it as sheets anyway only strips on the baskets and just throw them some coffee money as appreciation factor. Black Hole-5 is fairly expensive I did find my sheet on C/L for $15, bargins are out there. Also a roll of Armacell/Armaflex gasket tape was about $8 at Home Depot if you need new gaskets.

Jasper67 wrote: »

I recently purchased a pair of SDA Studio 2B's and I want to make sure everything is in working order. I downloaded Raife Smith's SDA Handbook (very informative) and there is a section describing how to check everything out using a Volt/Ohm meter, however the 2B's are not listed with values. Any thoughts? Here is a link to the handbook if you don't have a copy. The section I am referring to begins on page 34. Thanks...

http://vr3mods.com/uploads/SDA_Handbook_2011_Rev2.pdf

If you look on page 36 you'll find values for the SDA CRS+ (New Connector) which uses the same electrical components as the 2B with the exception of the stereo driver (MW-6503 (6.54 Ohms) for the 2B and the MW-6510 (6.57 Ohms) for the CRS+), This should get you well within the +/- 10% tolerance.

Many members have had c/o's done ny vr3 and seem quite happy with them. Many have had wessmassguy (Dave) do c/o's, including myself and have been pleased as well.

Hello, Polk SDA enthusiasts! I just joined the forum, after a recent update/upgrade of the crossovers in my SDA-2b speakers. The date stickers on them revealed that the left and right cabinets were manufactured 18 months apart! (I always wondered why the serial numbers on the enclosures' backsides were so far apart.) I have not changed the tweeters; I eliminated the protection varistors and their accompanying tiny parallel caps from the signal path between the tweeter and its high-pass capacitor. And replaced the large resistor with a newer one of identical value. I believe both of those things are the correct procedure, but I noticed one other oddity, with regard to the factory connection of the massive inductor. The leads attach to the board at 'P' and 'R'. But the inductor leads on one crossover are reversed, compared to the other. I don't know if the "polarity" (inner-beginning of winding, versus outer-ending of winding) really matters, with respect to an inductor. Can anyone here tell me if there are benefits to reap, by matching the inductors' connections? Or perhaps one channel's inductor is connected "in-reverse" BY DESIGN for desired out-of-phase reasons? Thanks; I will now attempt to attach a photo of my finished work below ...

Inductors don't have polarity, they can be wired to either terminal

F1 do you recommend silver wire or copper wire to complete the connection?

@ westmassguy, Thank You, i kinda figured that inductors were entirely non-polar. @ F1nut, also Thank You, a couple things to explain. No money was spent here, I have been out of work long-term, all the parts were a birthday gift from a fellow audiophile. So I won't be buying the upgrade tweeters. Besides, I enjoy the extra brightness of my new sound, finally able to set the treble knob to 'flat'. The 12uF high-pass to the tweeter is not a Solen like the others, it is a Dayton Audio 1% tolerance cap. Yes, the 40uF Solen should have been stood on its end, but it took me several hours to manage the required soldering as it is; didn't want to try splicing an extension wire from one end, and I don't have a hot glue gun or equivalent. You can see that the monster cap is zip-tied in place; I did not tighten them until the crossover was remounted and I squeezed the audio connector in place (which unfortunately has zero clearance, pushes slightly against the cap!) Whenever I find steady work again, I will consider purchasing the upgrade tweeters and associated caps. Meanwhile I am debating a newer form of SDA cable, pondering a single run of solid copper the same large diameter (8-gauge maybe?) as the pin of that silly proprietary connector, just buy a 10-foot piece at Lowe's, strip each end and jam it in the holes ... Poor-Man cable upgrade.