Modifications to the RTA 15TL

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    edited September 2011
    rx7rotary wrote: »
    f1.. also another question...

    Are the passive radiators for front and back tuned for different frequencies? I just realised that when I took them off I didnt note down which one goes where thinking they are exactly the same....

    regards
    m


    yes they are tuned differently. Someone please chime in on which one goes where. On another note unlike SDA's that like to be closer to the walls the RTA's need more room away from the wall to help the bass coming from the rear woofer.
    My.02
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,437
    edited September 2011
    If you don't get an answer, I'll email the designer to see if he remembers.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    edited September 2011
    rx7rotary wrote: »

    Hi f1Nut, thanks for this... it is actually a very correct way too. I was going to use lacquer possibly at the end, but would not like the glossy finish, have you got any other ideas, so that the finish doesnt become glossy looking. Best Regards.
    m

    Lacquer comes in different sheens straight out of the can, but it really doesn't matter because you have to rub out the finish in order for it to look right. For example, I can spray dead flat lacquer and still be able to turn it into a high gloss sheen by the rubbing out process followed by polishing compounds. The only exception is when the desired sheen is dead flat, you cannot get that any other way than spraying dead flat lacquer.

    Any time you see a cheap looking lacquer finish it's because it wasn't rubbed out. The rubbing out process is what most folks don't seem to understand or think is required.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    skrol wrote: »
    If you don't get an answer, I'll email the designer to see if he remembers.
    Stan

    Thanks mate, yes couldn't work it out... so there are two with the "flat dust cap" that sticks out slightly more than the other ones... I think these go in the front...

    Also the sl3000 tweeter... doesn't have + and - marked, do you guys know if it is the smaller or the larger terminal for plus?

    Regards
    Mark
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    rx7rotary wrote: »
    Thanks mate, yes couldn't work it out... so there are two with the "flat dust cap" that sticks out slightly more than the other ones... I think these go in the front...

    Also the sl3000 tweeter... doesn't have + and - marked, do you guys know if it is the smaller or the larger terminal for plus?

    Regards
    Mark
    ok got info:

    The Black wire with the narrow Faston connector is the positive wire.

    The white wire with the wider Faston connector is the negative wire.

    The passive radiator with the smaller mass loaded dust cap is installed on the front baffle just below the bottom 6.5 inch driver.

    The heavier mass loaded passive radiator is installed on the back of the cabinet.
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited October 2011
    here we go finished speakers. Next is tweeters, then, xover upgrade.


    2011-09-30 14.55.57 (Medium).jpg

    2011-09-30 14.56.11 (Medium).jpg
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  • acerjac
    acerjac Posts: 28
    edited October 2011
    I have the same speakers with the RDO's and the crossover upgrades done to them. The sound amazing! Nice looking pair of 15's!
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  • Tubes
    Tubes Posts: 2
    edited February 2012
    Hey All,

    Quick question for Decato or anyone else who may know. Can I use 3 X 3.3UF caps for the 10Uf Cap in this crossover? Is the 0.1uf going to make any audible difference in this crossover configuration? I found a good deal on older Clarity Caps, but 10Uf's were not available. Thanks for your help. Awesome thread. The knowledge here is incredible!
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2012
    You'll be fine.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 189
    edited February 2012
    Agreed. No problems there.

    Have fun. Let me know how your modifications turn out.
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  • Tubes
    Tubes Posts: 2
    edited February 2012
    Face and Decato - Thank You : )

    I will post up my X-Over once it's done!
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  • Flynmonkey
    Flynmonkey Posts: 1
    edited March 2012
    "Decato"Brian, I'm new to the site and found this string on the TLs while Searching for replacement SL3000. I purchased my 15"T"s back In 91 and had tweeter issues almost from day one. I am very interested in XO/RDO198-1 upgrade but am abit lost navigating my way around a Crossover board. Have you by any chance published your upgrade in a "Crossovers For dummies" format. With that I mean step-by-step instruction. Have no problem soldering if I know what I'm soldering...thanks
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 189
    edited March 2012
    No, I'm sorry. I posted everything I have online. There are very few parts for the RTA 15TL, so it should be pretty easy to figure out which components to replace. All the originals parts except the inductors are labeled. Feel free to email me (check my profile) if you have additional questions, or perhaps someone else from the forum can offer assistance.
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  • cincycat13
    cincycat13 Posts: 888
    edited March 2012
    Flynmonkey,

    scroll here and you will find the schematic...

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?38755-POLK-AUDIO-Speaker-Wiring-Schematics-amp-More-ALL-MODELS-except-SDA

    The RTA15TL board only has like 3 capacitors, 1 resistor, a polyswitch and the inductors. Pull the binding post cup and the XO should come out with it. You should be able to figure out the labels of the parts on the board by referencing the schematic. If not, snap a picture, and post in the forum and someone will figure it out.

    You just desolder the the capacitors, resisitors, and PS (if you choose) and solder the new parts in.

    The RDO-198 is a drop in replacement and can be done without the XO upgrade.
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  • B.A.
    B.A. Posts: 6
    edited April 2012
    doing the passive swap...what about the SW101's that were used in the m7/m10's to use in the fronts and use the sw100's to the rear like you did ?
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 189
    edited April 2012
    B.A. wrote: »
    doing the passive swap...what about the SW101's that were used in the m7/m10's to use in the fronts and use the sw100's to the rear like you did ?

    Sorry, I just saw your post. There's no need to worry about swapping the passive radiators. I ultimately reinstalled the originals. Feel free to experiment, if you like, and let us know your impressions.
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  • leesonic
    leesonic Posts: 16
    edited November 2012
    WOW!

    I just picked up a pair of RTA 15TLs, and a quick search pulled up this wealth of information. I read the comments about blown SL-3000 tweeters, and yes, mine does have a blown tweeter. I was going to try and source another one, but looking at this page, I might have to bite the bullet and order the replacements from Polk.

    I also like the idea of upgrading the crossovers. I have a pair of JBL L100s that have the most basic crossovers you ever did see (just 2 caps and 2 L-pads). I replaced them with an upgraded design, but also added some switches so I could switch back to the original ones (albeit with replacement caps). If any of you are on AudioKarma, you can see these speakers by searching for threads started by "leesonic". I wonder if I could do the same with these RTAs...?

    I'm looking forward to working on these speakers. Having just sold our house though, space is VERY limited where we are staying right now.

    Lee.
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited February 2013
    Why does everyone have the same table as me????

    Have fun!
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,383
    edited February 2013
    Can you post pictures of these "Vr3 modifications?" I have only upgraded three sets of RTA15TL and sold one DIY kit and they are all Clarity Cap ESA/PX/Solen type parts. Not to mention all of my RTA15TL use the "Decato Mod" anyways... never have done one without doing it.

    This concerns me and I would also like to know who you bought these speakers from and I would like to contact them directly.

    Thanks
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Drenis
    Drenis Posts: 2,871
    edited February 2013
    Looks like it's time to sue someone Trey!
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    edited February 2013
    OH Boy somebody's about to have some fun!!! Hopefully the wife had it plugged in and on when stabbing a lot less blood she would have to clean up:eek:
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited February 2013
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    OH Boy somebody's about to have some fun!!! Hopefully the wife had it plugged in and on when stabbing a lot less blood she would have to clean up:eek:

    Definitely a +1 on the cauterizing. I have been stabbed a few times with a hot TIG torch. WAY WAY better when its hot! LOL.
    Too much **** to list....
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 189
    edited February 2013
    So it sounds like you guys are pleased with how the crossover modifications improve the sound. I like the RTA 15TLs too, and I still have the pair I modified back in early 2007.

    VR3, how much do you charge to redo a pair of crossovers with my mods?

    By the way, I just finished cleaning up the sound of Monitor 5jr+ Series 2 with a complete redesign of the crossover, now tailored to suit the RD0198-1 tweeter. What a great little speaker it is. It no longer has colored, stuffy mids, but still retains the best attributes of the classic Polk sound!

    Cheers,
    Brian
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  • charley95
    charley95 Posts: 908
    edited February 2013
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Initial impressions...Wow. Just wow.
    I will do a full write up in a separate post but the upgrades have made a pretty significant difference.
    Thanks Brian.
    I just pulled my 15's out of the closet last week. Sold my 2.3's to SDA1C, house was too small for the big boys to get SDA effect. I forgot how good my 15's sounded after not listening to them for a few years. I have them backed by my Rogue Cronus Magnum. Might be getting the fever to upgrade. How much $$ do you have in upgrades to your 15's so far?
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 189
    edited February 2013
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Initial impressions...Wow. Just wow.
    I will do a full write up in a separate post but the upgrades have made a pretty significant difference.
    Thanks Brian.

    Excellent! Glad to hear you like the modifications.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    edited February 2013
    If it were me I'd get the Solens out of the high pass section. Never been a fan of those in that position.
    just my .02
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  • cincycat13
    cincycat13 Posts: 888
    edited February 2013
    I look forward to your write up. And yes, I lay the small inductor over to avoid interference. Very fun speaker to tweek and easy to work on.
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited April 2013
    Decato,

    Is this still your preferred or current list of upgrade components for the 15tl?

    2 x 13.5 uF (2 x 12 uF + 2 x 1.5 uF) caps
    2 x 12 uF caps
    2 x 10 uF caps
    2 x 1.75 mH, 16 awg inductors
    2 x 0.22 mH, 19 awg inductors
    2 x 2.7 ohm resistors
    2 x 0.5 ohm resistors


    Thanks, 1c
    Too much **** to list....
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 189
    edited April 2013
    SDA1C wrote: »
    Decato,

    Is this still your preferred or current list of upgrade components for the 15tl?

    2 x 13.5 uF (2 x 12 uF + 2 x 1.5 uF) caps
    2 x 12 uF caps
    2 x 10 uF caps
    2 x 1.75 mH, 16 awg inductors
    2 x 0.22 mH, 19 awg inductors
    2 x 2.7 ohm resistors
    2 x 0.5 ohm resistors


    Thanks, 1c

    Yes, I still have the same parts in my 15TLs.
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  • SDA1C
    SDA1C Posts: 2,072
    edited April 2013
    Thanks a bunch.
    Too much **** to list....
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