Modifications to the RTA 15TL

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  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited October 2010
    Thanks for the help Ricardo.I plan to use your mods as a template and begin with the crossover upgrade this winter.I have an old friend that is a master at this sort of thing and he'll work for food!
    I will go with the 198's as well.Regarding the PR's, the front is a SW100 but i am not sure what the back is.Can you tell me please?
    Thanks.
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

    I’M OFFENDED!!!!
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited October 2010
    brgman,

    These are not my mods. I just followed Brian's (Decato) recommendations back on post #15 in this thread. I did not make any changes to the PR's (And I really don't know their part numbers).
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
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    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
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  • brgman
    brgman Posts: 2,859
    edited October 2010
    :eek:Sorry for the confusion on my part.Thanks for the great mod info Decato.Ricardo not as much...;)
    Main Rig-Realistic AM/FM Record player 8 track boasting 4 WPC

    Backup Rig-2 CH-Rogue Audio Zeus w/Factory Special Dark Mods,Joule-Electra 300ME Platinum Preamp,OPPO-105 w/Modwright Tube Mod, Auralic Aries G2.1,Polk 2.3TL,3.1TL's,Dreadnought,RTA-15TL's,1C's All Fully Modded,2xRTA-12c's ,Benchmark DAC3 HGC,Synology NAS,VPI Scout w/Dynavector DV-20XH and Rogue Audio Ares Phono Preamp,Sony PCM-R500 DAT,HHB-850 Pro CDR,Tascam CC-222SLMKII Cassette/CDR,MIT S3.3 Shotgun Cables,Shunyata Hyra-8,Shunyata and Triode Labs Power Cords

    I’M OFFENDED!!!!
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited October 2010
    Ricardo wrote: »
    Brian, once again thanks for sharing the outcome of your modifications. The speakers sound incredibly good. If someone offered me $3,000 I would not sell them!

    That's great! I'm glad you are pleased with them.
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  • STORMINORMAN
    STORMINORMAN Posts: 9
    edited March 2011
    Bought the RTA11T's, heavily di$counted as one tweeter had been "replaced" by the previous owner. Please advise if the replacement tweeters and mods described in earlier posting is correct for RTA11T's as well? Can provide serial numbers if this would clarify.

    Thanks!
    I:ROTELpre/proADCOM5Ch,AtTechSub,Monitor7&5Jr's,B&WCenter,SamsungBRay,YamDVD(24bit for CD's) II:YamCX-1000,MX-1000,TX-1000,KX-W602,EQ-70&CDC-815 driving NS-1000M, +MitsubishiAmp driving ATRIUM4 III:YamRX-V596+Boston Ac Micro90C+(4X)Micro90SamsungBRay,VelodyneSub &42"LG LCD
    IV:another RX-V596 JBL Towers, JBL3way BS & Sub, PhillipsDVD, Pana42"Plasma V:Tandberg Receiver, NEC CD TechnicsDDCas&Turntable&,Sigma,MitsuVCR VI:BOSELifestyle 12 via hp desktop VII:Toshiba 24"&SD-H400 DVD/TiVo
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  • agfrost
    agfrost Posts: 2,424
    edited March 2011
    Norman, RTA11T had the SL2000 tweeter (silver colored dome that looks like --O--, part number should be on back). Good pictures HERE. The correct replacement for it is the RD0194, available from Polk. Call 800 number and mention your membership in Club Polk for discount and free shipping to pacific NW.

    It's worth checking that you don't have the RTA11TL (in spite of what it says on the back of the speaker--is nearly identical but for tweeter and crossover). Those have the SL3000 as their tweeter, which has variable coloring: the dome could be silvery, or 'gunmetal', or gold/bronze. The SL3000 has no wires visible from the front. Should you have the SL3000, the replacement tweeter is the RD0198.

    If you need additional help/have other questions, feel free to start a new thread--You'll get more views that way.

    Good luck,

    Jay
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited March 2011
    STORMINORMAN wrote: »
    Please advise if the replacement tweeters and mods described in earlier posting is correct for RTA11T's as well?

    My crossover mod is not for the RTA 11T nor the RTA 11TL. I never owned a pair of them and have no way of verifying the sound quality. I imagine the mod will not sound correct, given that that 11s use different drivers.
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  • STORMINORMAN
    STORMINORMAN Posts: 9
    edited March 2011
    Wow! I'm so glad I posted before I started buying parts for crossover mods! Thanks for that clarification, decato, and the part numbers, agfrost!

    My two model/serial numbers are RTA 11T 30848 (replaced with an infinity tweeter) and RTA11T 33050: the original tweeter has visable wires and is silver colored (clear, really) and says "Silver Coil Dome" on the black plastic surround.

    It initially appears I would need a RD0194 Polk replacement for the SL2000? Are there any other mods I should be considering for these RTA 11T's? Will the serial number confirml the actual original tweeter? I would think that since it is a lower number for the speaker with the infinity tweeter (30848 vs. 33050) that wouldn't be an 11TL vs. 11T?

    It's not like these were ever sold/shipped in matched pairs, was it?

    Really do appreciate the help and information!

    Regards,

    Norm
    I:ROTELpre/proADCOM5Ch,AtTechSub,Monitor7&5Jr's,B&WCenter,SamsungBRay,YamDVD(24bit for CD's) II:YamCX-1000,MX-1000,TX-1000,KX-W602,EQ-70&CDC-815 driving NS-1000M, +MitsubishiAmp driving ATRIUM4 III:YamRX-V596+Boston Ac Micro90C+(4X)Micro90SamsungBRay,VelodyneSub &42"LG LCD
    IV:another RX-V596 JBL Towers, JBL3way BS & Sub, PhillipsDVD, Pana42"Plasma V:Tandberg Receiver, NEC CD TechnicsDDCas&Turntable&,Sigma,MitsuVCR VI:BOSELifestyle 12 via hp desktop VII:Toshiba 24"&SD-H400 DVD/TiVo
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited August 2011
    I have decided to try and source 2 x RD0198-1 tweeters for my rta-15tl speakers. I will then proceed with the xover mod listed here.

    Could someone point me in the right direction in terms of where do I buy these tweeters from and how to order?

    I do not live in the USA by the way.

    Regards
    Mark
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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited August 2011
    Direct from Polk, 800 number on top right.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited August 2011
    866 number
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited August 2011
    I have a pair of the black rta's and looking to sand the black colour off, as I assume there is some veneer underneath, then once I get the natural wood colour, to use danish oil to finish off. At the same time, I will be rebuilding the xover and installing hopefully the new tweeters.
    Any other tips? leave standard wiring in or what?
    Regards
    Mark
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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited August 2011
    Sorry to burst your bubble, but It is a veneer, so you will not be able to 'sand the black off'. The cabinets are MDF underneath. You 'might' (used very loosely) be able to strip it, and bleach it, and then stain it, but I seriously doubt even that wold produce a desirable result. More than likely all that would likely produce some wrinkling or delaminating of the Veneer.

    If you are looking for a natural wood finish, you are going to be better off re-veneering them with a wood veneer you like, and then stain and finish them, OR get a pair in a natural wood finish.

    As far as ordering the RDO's remember to tel them you are a member of CP. THey reward you with a discounted price :) yeah
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited August 2011
    kcoc321 wrote: »
    Sorry to burst your bubble, but It is a veneer, so you will not be able to 'sand the black off'. The cabinets are MDF underneath. You 'might' (used very loosely) be able to strip it, and bleach it, and then stain it, but I seriously doubt even that wold produce a desirable result. More than likely all that would likely produce some wrinkling or delaminating of the Veneer.

    If you are looking for a natural wood finish, you are going to be better off re-veneering them with a wood veneer you like, and then stain and finish them, OR get a pair in a natural wood finish.

    As far as ordering the RDO's remember to tel them you are a member of CP. THey reward you with a discounted price :) yeah

    Thats fantastic tips, thanks kindly for letting me know before I started the process of sanding! in this case I will just sort out the spikes, and terminals, and await the new tweeters, once they arrive I will get onto the xover. and maybe at some stage I will re-veneer them. Once again thanks:)
    Mark
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    kcoc321 wrote: »
    Sorry to burst your bubble, but It is a veneer, so you will not be able to 'sand the black off'. The cabinets are MDF underneath. You 'might' (used very loosely) be able to strip it, and bleach it, and then stain it, but I seriously doubt even that wold produce a desirable result. More than likely all that would likely produce some wrinkling or delaminating of the Veneer.

    If you are looking for a natural wood finish, you are going to be better off re-veneering them with a wood veneer you like, and then stain and finish them, OR get a pair in a natural wood finish.

    As far as ordering the RDO's remember to tel them you are a member of CP. THey reward you with a discounted price :) yeah
    Decided to do it anyway, and here is what they look like now:
    2011-09-24 22.28.55 (Medium).jpg

    Regards
    mark
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    Hi, What did you mean by rewire the tweeter out of phase?
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,358
    edited September 2011
    Ooooo, they are gonna be pretty!
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,315
    edited September 2011
    to use danish oil to finish off.

    That's not a finish.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    F1nut wrote: »
    That's not a finish.

    Since you are clever enough to make statements like that, please explain your self, with your expertise in carpentry and I will be happy to accept your statement?
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  • decato
    decato Posts: 186
    edited September 2011
    rx7rotary wrote: »
    Hi, What did you mean by rewire the tweeter out of phase?

    Reverse the wires going to the tweeter.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,150
    edited September 2011
    rx7rotary wrote: »
    Since you are clever enough to make statements like that, please explain your self, with your expertise in carpentry and I will be happy to accept your statement?

    LMAO!!!! Jesse knows more about wood then a pornstar!!! I suggest you take any tips he gives you...
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    decato wrote: »
    Reverse the wires going to the tweeter.

    Thanks muchly Decato for your response. Kind Regards
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    LMAO!!!! Jesse knows more about wood then a pornstar!!! I suggest you take any tips he gives you...

    And same here, worked with wood for a very very long time... absolutelly happy to take tips that are backed up with a fact, however when people comment something without backing it up , that aint a tip and it shows how much they dont know about something.

    If he comes back with a comment why is my intention of using danish oil no good, I will take the tip and possibly learn something from it.
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    All I am saying is there is no tip in his statement? Or point me in the right direction if there was???
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    LMAO!!!! Jesse knows more about wood then a pornstar!!! I suggest you take any tips he gives you...
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  • maxilla
    maxilla Posts: 41
    edited September 2011
    I guess that was the end of the tip....
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  • maxilla
    maxilla Posts: 41
    edited September 2011
    By the way, you're doing a great job Mr. Mazda.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,315
    edited September 2011
    Oil, like wax, offers very little to no protection from water vapor. Since one of the more important aspects of a finish is to keep water vapors out of the wood, I don't consider them to be a finish. They also perform very poorly in regards to durability because they do not cure hard.

    Use a grain filler to fill the pores, then apply a dye stain, top coat with lacquer and rub out. It will make the wood grain pop like nothing else while providing more than adequate protection and durability.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    F1nut wrote: »
    Oil, like wax, offers very little to no protection from water vapor. Since one of the more important aspects of a finish is to keep water vapors out of the wood, I don't consider them to be a finish. They also perform very poorly in regards to durability because they do not cure hard.

    Use a grain filler to fill the pores, then apply a dye stain, top coat with lacquer and rub out. It will make the wood grain pop like nothing else while providing more than adequate protection and durability.

    Hi f1Nut, thanks for this... it is actually a very correct way too. I was going to use lacquer possibly at the end, but would not like the glossy finish, have you got any other ideas, so that the finish doesnt become glossy looking. Best Regards.
    m
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited September 2011
    Satin wipe on poly.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • rx7rotary
    rx7rotary Posts: 14
    edited September 2011
    f1.. also another question...

    Are the passive radiators for front and back tuned for different frequencies? I just realised that when I took them off I didnt note down which one goes where thinking they are exactly the same....

    regards
    m
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