Synthetic Oil

AudioGenics · April 2009

I appreciate your comments.... along with the side remarks.

I read every one of your references and they were all informative.

Information from all points of view are welcomed.

WilliamM2 · April 2009

I always run Mobil1 15/50 synthetic in all my bikes. Never had an oil related problem.

I always run the cheapest 10/30 oil I can find in my cars. Never has an oil related problem, and some have gone 200,000 miles.

I doubt I need synthetic in the bike, but I only change it once a year, so why not?

doggie750 · April 2009

Jeb85 wrote: »

the molecules in the synthetic are thinner by construction, which creates less of a the worn rings to move apon the worn cylinder wall. the cylinders walls where most at the top of the ring travel(because of the compression and power stroke). The rings do make up the difference with this wear to a point of course. Regular oil has larger molecules and will make it harder for oil to pass by the rings and get burnt. but when synthetic is added in, oil can squeeze by the rings and therefore get burned because of these extremely small gaps.

With respect Jeb85, the molecular wt diff or the delta between the synthetic GIII/ GIV & the conventional G1/ GII is a mute point. The issue is basically independent to the MW. For a given viscosity grade (100N, 220N 600N etc.), the oils will have comparable molecular weights, independent of API its grouping. The phenomenon related to seal shrinkage is specific to the fact the paraffinic oils group II, III and IV are basically aromatics free and aromatics compounds (mostly in the GI) make great seal swell agents. We all know that additives can also improve the oil's properties, VI and oxidation resistance, to enhance corrosion, pressure and wear resistance, and to prevent foaming. Now let me get back to work........before I get canned.

Synthetic Oil

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